Garage Conversion: # Part 3 Finale 

Hi, yes anyone can give it ago if your confident... we live in a world of box tickers... just take your time, get lots of advise, do your research, RU-vid is a great source of information. Work with your local council in particular your local building control department put in an application, not only do they do the safety/tech checks etc. but also a great source of advice. I must admit my videos are not the best in the world at showing everything and I'm not perfect... budget plays a big part in projects.. good luck :)

Excellent, good luck on your build, I'm sure it will be really good and look amazing. Thanks for sharing.

ok thank you lol

Awesome, thank you!

Thank you.

Many thanks!

Thank you! Cheers!

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thank you

Hi thanks for watching, yes the garage door was fully removed, bottom half was built as a dwarf wall and on top a new window was fitted to match the Livingroom window.

Thanks foe watching :)

Hi, Thanks for watching... yes I used a vapour barrier on the warm side (aka just before fitting the plasterboard) I tend to use a 35mm drywall screw, tape and jointed fill the plasterboard then lining wallpaper with a final paint finish. 👍

Thank you cheers.

I did ask but planning was not required no, thank you for watching.

It seemed to me the easiest way to level up the floor and I was also matching the height of the hallway to have one continuous same level floor. Your right wouldn't have been an issue off the concrete floor. Thanks for watching 👍

Yes it was fine, it was pressure tested, aka safety checked and certificated before I could sell the property.

Hi, thanks for watching. That's correct planning only really required if it's a detached building and change of use. Simple forms to do and all done online, basic questions are asked, what are you building and costs will determine the fee, look for your local Building Control Department portal www.planningportal.co.uk/

Haha...I would love to help everyone but sadly, no time. Thank you.

I took the option of tape & jointing the plasterboard and then lining with a heavy embossed wallpaper yes and look great. Thank you. Good luck, well worth doing for the extra space.

A heavy gauge DPM did go under the joists... I just didn't get that bit in... thanks for watching :)

If costs are a factor like myself 100mm knauf roll insulation is fine to use in walls and roofs, building regs approved. Good luck with your build and thanks for watching 👍

Thank you for watching. You don't have to raise the floor, you can sit them on the ground or concrete with a plastic DPC sheeting underneath. I had to raise mind by 10/12" to match another floor and fitted two vents to allow for air flow is good practice.

Thanks for watching

DPM would go on top of the insulation and under the plasterboard warm side for walls and under/behind for floors. Vapour barrier that allows airflow is best used behind if needed cold side on external walls. Damp or condensation flash point is created when the cold & heat meet. I mostly had internal walls, so not needed.

And sorry one more thing, what is the second membrane (lighter green) that you put down before the insulation called (8:00)?

Hi Veronica, thank you for saying😊 there seems to be no pleasing some people and it's hard than it looks editing video's, I have a lot of respect for RU-vidrs that are good at it. Metal brackets are called, joist hangers and are very similar www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-100mm-Galvanised-Light-Duty-Hanger---Pack-of-10/p/263711

It's called vapour barrier similar to this light gauge one www.screwfix.com/p/capital-valley-plastics-ltd-vapour-barrier-green-300ga-20m-x-2-5m/12869 it was used just to keep the insulation off the concrete floor.

Hi, I'll be honest at the time it was just before the madness of rising prices hit us all... with lots of deals, I spent around £5-6k in all for the materials... the bulk of the costs were timber, then it would be insulation, plasterboard next... it's the little bits that get you, screws, glue, filler, drill bits etc and so on to think about, depending on how your set up but it all adds up? Thanks for watching...

Great job done.

Thanks foe watching :)

Hi, Thank you... it's a bloody nightmare lol🤣... biggest refurb I've ever done! Because I was selling that property you need a sign off cert from your local Building control, so that's what I done and it was fine no issues if you work with them.

@@mjsimo1 thank you Mark, much obliged. one last question please, did you need to dig out the concrete where the door was to put in a foundation, were the services under there (gas/electricity) was it difficult to avoid them? Cheers

​@@markdyballuksame question. Not sure how you assess if it's strong enough or need to dig it out

Yes, your correct it does and there was a second DMP sheeting under the joist, to difficult to video that bit. It was all signed off by building control.

@@mjsimo1 cool thanks. im doing a similar thing soon and i'm trying to make sure i'm doing it right

Thank you for watching. No, just an application to your local building control to sign off the work, certs needed if you sell up. If it's a single skin detached garage then I would check under change of use. Still, full planning may not be required under self declaration with permitted development. Good luck 👍.

@@mjsimo1 thank you for taking the time to come back to me, that's really helpful and much appreciated.

I did you just didn't see it 👍

I used 47mm x 150mm joists and the walls/battening was your standard CLS stud timber 38mm x 63mm, so it gave me a space to insulate the walls, which is a building control requirement. Thanks for watching.

They are standard CLS timber studs 38mm x 68mm. 👍

Hi, I'm sure what you mean to answers sorry.

Hi, I think it's good practice & the building inspector did recommend to insulate everything lol...

Hi, this was pre covid prices which cost me around £5k.

If you doing the conversion yourself, I personally I would start talking to your local council, building control department. They can do a pre inspection and give you advise after all they need to sign it off, if you ever want to sell up. Then start to price up all the materials. You need to consider an electrician for the electrics and if there is any gas you need a corgi registered plumber for the certs. Also try get some local builders for quotes and advise.

@@mjsimo1 thank you. That's what I will do.. the walls are plasterboard already would they need to be removed and better insulation? After all it's a 2023 new build home. A few more sockets and the floor would need strapped with kings span. A new window and build a cupboard around the boiler and install a radiator.

Hi, no because my floor was raised which allowed insulation and DPC on top. Yes fully inspected and signed off by local building control, thanks for watching.

Thank you, you have to bear in mind this is an internal garage with cavity walls already insulated, I used 100mm rockwool everywhere. Yes I applied through my local government council/building control department, cost was around £360 which included 3 site inspections, plus final sign off.

Hi, just your standard 100mm rockwool

Thank you, this is only something I do for myself, sorry.

Hi, it's slightly bigger size due to me using the old larder cupboard but your about right. Thanks for watching.

Hi, it depends on the type of garage you have? if it's integrated like mine then no. If it's a detached garage then possibly yes, check with your councils planning department but in all cases you need to submit an application to your local building control so they can check the standard of build meets regs. Hope it helps.

Thanks for watching, it took me about 4 weeks to complete.

Thank you, that's very kind of you to say and thanks for watching. I guess every project is slightly different but for me it wasn't needed no. I did however, dig a small test hole for Building Control to check and advise on, the house was built on a very thick slab and wasn't necessary they said, it was only one small retaining wall.

I no longer have the details, it was a standard size single garage and it was reduced in size by about 150mm each way for boarding out etc.

@mjsimo1 I want to convert my garage but don't have a diy bone in my body. Congrats on your conversion though

Sure, mj.simo@yahoo.co.uk

I have three video's of the garage on my site, sorry I'm not the best at taking them but plan to do better ones in the future. I have just bought another property to renovate and I will film a lot more next time, thank you for watching.

Technically you would be break a seal, but we all do it! you may not have any choice in which to fix to. If your concerned you could always use a resin fixing which seals the hole or try not to drill so deep. Your floor screed should be at least 3-4" thick/deep. Thanks for watch my video, cheers.

Hi, yes its in there, the big black DPC sheeting. cheers

Back then it was around £5k for all the materials.

Thanks for for watching, I'll bare that in mind for other videos.

Hi, not very big... it was approx. 2.5m wide x 7m long.

Thanks' for watching :)

Yes I raised the level to match the existing floor levels, I wanted a seamless look and feel with no steps. The extra DPC building control requested was a nonsense, the house was 60+ years old with no signs of damp issues what so ever from what was already in place?. Thanks for watching.

@@mjsimo1 ok thanks for getting back to me

mj.simo@yahoo.co.uk

Hi, no problem, it cost me around £5k at the time for all the materials. If your not doing it yourself then sadly the biggest costs you face will be the labour if your paying someone.

@@mjsimo1 I don't really have much experience in handy work, but happy to learn on the job! Would you say it's good for beginners?

It's probably not a job I would start as a beginner to be honest, but not impossible to do with some help and lots of advise and research. RU-vid is an amazing place to learn stuff, my skills I've learnt over 30 plus years and I'm not the best and still learning every day. All the best.

yes. its a moisture barrier rather than "dpc", and should be behind the plasterboard on the warm side of the insulation. there should also be a continuous sheathing of insulation (eg 25mm kingspan PIR) on top of the studwork, (just behind the plasterboard and moisture barrier) to prevent thermal bridging. i dont mean this as a criticism btw, tidy job i can see, only someone asked for a bit more info, which they can use or not, depending on budget, prevention of possible interstitial condensation, thermal performance & building regs compliance etc.

No, not necessarily... not even new builds do that? you only really need a water barrier sheeting behind the studs on say with single skin external garage walls, mine was built inside all double skin internal walls, apart from where I replaced the old garage door. The other guy gave great advise thank you, budget plays a big part.

Hi so technically, because garage is surrounded by “heated spaces” a vapour barrier isn’t required? Great video and use of space! 👍🏼

Sorry, back then didn't think about putting on RU-vid.

@@mjsimo1 no problem cheers

I know sorry.. but thanks for watching! I'll try to make better video's next time...

Stfu don’t like the music don’t watch !

It's not a music video, use mute.