How to finish a new build garage from start to finish! 

@@DeeBythesea hi glad you found it useful! The quick dry joint compound is a separate link its listed in there. I used the tapered edge boards as i taped and compounded the seams. However in hindsight it didnt need doing as i skimmed it all anyway. So you can go for straught edge if you plan on skimming it. Its not a nail gun its just my drill with a magnetic screw bit on the end. Hope that helps.

@@DeeBythesea there's 2 links there for joint compound, both are in black tubs one is quick set. It says on the tub.

@@DeeBythesea yeah deffo need the magnetic bits, when im back at my PC il get the links for you. We all got to start somewhere!

@@DeeBythesea Dewalt Brushless Drill Set: amzn.to/3Ha1K3L - price depends on what batteries you go for.

Glad it helped

Thanks alot!

Good luck pal!

Thanks bro

Glad you found it useful pal. Good luck with the build.

Have a go yourself! Good luck

Thanks pal

@@Dipscovery can I ask, you sound east Lancashire? Burnley?

@@e36328isport im from Chorley/Preston pal

Thanks pal, good luck with your build!

good luck with it pal!

Lol sorry buddy

Good luck!, after damp proofing the walls, you can get insulated plasterboard these days which makes life easier.

Thanks! It was only about £400 fitted.

@@Dipscovery thank you, would you mind letting me know the name of the product please?

@@_J4CK4L_ its called safty flooring

Yeah you can cut it with some decent scissors or a Stanley knife. It comes with adhesive in the kit.

Hi, I didn't want to reduce the size of the garage by framing as its already quite small, and no need for insulation as it's not a lived in space. Standard plasterboards are not tall enough to go all the way to the bottom of the wall so left a gap, I didn't mind as it meant I did not need skirting. Damp won't be an issue as they are moisture resistant boards. Hope that helps.

Give it 3yrs it will all come apart 🤣 Zero damp proofing zero insulation that plaster wall has no chance.

Thanks. Sure can i walk on them all the time.

Hi buddy, yes i didn't have to reinforce mine with anything and just boarded it, and it has been fine. I use mine for storage too. Only section I added additional battens was for the drop down ladder which i mentioned in the video. All the links for everything i use in the description.

@@Dipscovery 👊🏼 Thank you bud. And appreciate you taking time out to respond

Glad it was helpful. Looks like they dont do the one i used anymore and are stocking something else. Mine were called OSB loft boards. But the new ones may be ok?

Hi, we only needed the wooden spacers for the conduit section, you do not need it if its going directly onto the brick as it sticks fine with just the adhesive. Link to the ladder: tidd.ly/3k0wZDC

@@Dipscovery Thanks, very helpful!

Sorry, one more follow up, how did you secure the wood to to the brick? My garage is the grey breeze block instead of brick.

@@meenan86 I drilled holes through the brick, inserted a rawlplug then screwed the wood to the wall.

Not really somthing I would look at doing at the moment prices of stuff is different now then when I did it. But got the links to all the stuff I used in the description.

Not really as i didnt insulate it, but if yoi used insulated plasterboards instead of what I used then it would of been warmer. Im using mine as a workshop, storage for my motorcycle.

@@Dipscovery Hi mate, thanks for your response. I think I will try to spec it with the insulated board, to try best to keep it warm in the winter. Thanks very much. Ps great work on the channel, you are very watchable man, in any sort of your videos

Nope still looks the same today.

Hey buddy, so far its the same as it is in the video! No issues. Got all sorts up there, luggage bags, old clothes, decorations etc. The beams are designed to hold abit of weight and you can always reinforce width wise with additional beams if your trying to be safe.

Hi it was a commercial company, only cost £350

I'd like to know too.

Thanks, no not had any issues with any damp since i finished it.

Hi pal, was around £2k thats with the sparky and the plasterer.

@@Dipscovery thanks!

Its been fine had no issues

Hi, was about £2500ish all together, did it in 4-5 days.

Hi depends on your tradesman, mine charged me 350.

Moisture resistant plasterboards - links in the description

Thanks, if you spread the load out shouldnt have any issues. When it was being built you see big builders all the time standing on the joists while working. So ya gotta think, if it can hold x2 80kg fat builders while working it can hold a few bags of junk lol.

@@Dipscovery haha, sounds scientific enough for me

Ofcourse depends on time of year, probably would be ok for a gym if u want it cool when ur working out. Butnit gets quite hot in summer as sun facing the metal gatage door. I wasnt bothered about insulation as its not a living space.

Hi pal, it was called L&S Flooring they are a local company here in the North West, was around £350-400 fitted 👍🏽

Ah unlucky mate! No mine hasnt flooded, but i do have a sewer drain on my drive which probably helps. Its been perfect so far no issues with damp or moisture. Still the same as the video, theres a hairline crack in one part of the ceiling that came over time after the plaster had dried so just need to fill that and repaint. But its minor. 👍🏾

@@Dipscovery just wandering how it’s all held up over the winter regarding moisture etc?

@@vRemarks no issues yet still same as the video

I cut some panels to size for it

@@Dipscovery thanks

Nothing to show really, looks the same

no need as i used moisture resistant plasterboards.

@@Dipscovery where did you get those from

@@rasalahmed1209 Link ins the description pal for the materials.

Full product list in description

Hi, nope its still the same as it was when i finished, there is a small hairline crack in the ceiling after the plsater dried which i need to repair but everything else fine 👍🏽

Hi check out Toolstation

Yes you can!

Still fine no issues at all, nothing I would of done different tbh

@@Dipscovery thanks for the update, very tempted have a go at this this summer

@@Yanto-rv1qu deffo worth it pal, it's not too difficult

No need for insulation as it's not a living space, the plasterboards I used are moisture resistant boards, you can't do dot and dab/foam adhesive with vapour membrane boards as it won't stick to the back 👍🏾

Hi pal, yeah it's single skin, i've used moisture resistant plasterboard to reduce damp problems. I didn't really want to use a stud wall as it would of reduce the space inside the garage and its quite small already. So far been good though!

Good to hear, nice job btw. Is the floor Epoxy or them rubber tiles

@@Messimagician83 no its a flooring called safety flooring they normally use it in commercial environments like kitchens or hospitals etc.

not sure exactly, but the load is spread out across all the beams and panels, its had over 300kg on it so far and been fine.

@@Dipscovery Thanks, nice job.

It's actually a truss roof, so isn't designed to take any extra vertical load other than the roof tiles and an allowance for snow load. The long truss members (that have been boarded over) are in tension and not designed for any bending loads. I sistered proper C24 joists to the truss members in mine then glued and screwed the OSB boarding on top. Measured deflection before and after, mine certainly wasn't suitable for walking on plus storage before the strengthening. Walking around my new build development you can already see garage roofs starting to sag where they've been overloaded. Pretty easy to do, circa £200 for joists, construction adhesive and fixings for a single garage.

@@UltimateAccuracy Thanks, that's interesting. Are your joists perpendicular to the existing beams?

@@James-yl3kk No, they are "sistered" to the existing truss members. If you're not familiar with that term it just means fixing two lengths of wood together like a sandwich. You use construction adhesive (like Everbuild D4) between them and screws every 3-400mm. Between those reinforced truss members you should ideally fit noggins, which is effectively what the OP has done where he attaches the loft ladder, except you should do them the full width of the room, which also makes it easier to fit any plasterboard without sagging issues. HTH

Hi, no ours is a Countryside property. Ive not had any damp problems with mine, its still quite well ventilated as its not air tight since i am still using as a garage.

Around 2k alltogether, with electrician and plasterer.

@@Dipscovery that’s good to know thanks, did have to have planning permission? We have attached garage in the house we are buying and the garage is really cold, it’s has brick wall so I want to insulate it with 25mm insulation board on the walls so I don’t lose living space, then add 100mm in roof but the draft from the door is soo much am considering ways to stop the draft etc, any ideas? Also I’ll like to turn it into another room in a few years, would I need planning permission for that? What do you think?

@@theoteam4641 Hi, you don't need planning permission if you are doing what I did, if you are converting it to a living space, you do not need planning permission but there are certain health and safety/fire requirements you need to be aware of. If you watch towards the end of the video I used a draft excluder strip for my garage door.

@@Dipscovery ah I see, I may be using it as a living space in about a year or two, but the garage is attached to the house. Does that still need planning permission?

Of course, still get the spiders lol.

Using moisture resistant plasterboard - raised above floor with painted skirt so should be fine 👍

Cheap labour, he just needs food and shelter.

🤣 it wasnt a conversion lol

If your a professional why watch the video?

It’s not about being a professional or not - many commenters are suggesting they will follow this video, some with house attached garages… He is right, you spent 2K on a dryline that will be lucky to last a few years. You have created a sealed box with cold walls - no chance you don’t suffer from damp and condensation eventually. You really should have made a proper “warm room” since you were going to all that trouble anyway. Anyone watching this video: please also get some Celotex or similar insulation boards and vapour barrier/tape. The 50mm you will lose battening the walls will be nothing in the long run.

@@leighrobinson look forward to seeing your video pal 👍🏾

@@Dipscovery If and when I get around to doing my garage then sure I might put a video up - it would largely be the same as yours but id baton out the walls rather than dot and dab with adhesive. Takes more time to baton out no doubt, but I would have to make sure that condensation isn't a problem as I will have machine tools in there which will rust in no time otherwise. By the way, I am not really criticising what you have done to just knock you, but to provide some context to other commenters who might otherwise just copy what you show in the video and think the space will function "like a normal room". I like the style and what you have done in your house, and the fact you are bothering to make content - its not easy and definitely adds time to a project like this. You clearly put a lot of time and money into these things, so wouldn't it be the best for you take onboard these sorts of comments? I mean I wouldn't want people to be copying me once I know that I didn't exactly take everything I should have into consideration? It would be easy to add to the description that you didn't insulate or barrier as you might ought to; it doesn't take away from what you are trying to do with the channel, etc. Have a good one.

@@leighrobinson I'm planning on building a studwall with 50x75mm studwork, and fitting celotex GA4000 insulation between the studs, then 18mm OSB on the front. There will also be a dampproof course around the bottom of the stud, and some form of moisture resistant membrane on the wall-side. Do you think this will be ok, or overkill for a garage which I already know suffers from damp (possibly due to us using it as a gym)? Should I also add another layer of insulation between the studs & OSB?

Nope