What size screws did you use? I need to fix my brother's bottom retainer, too because it fell off and when I checked under his garage door and the retainer I was shocked to see that there were no drill holes anywhere so I wondered if the guys who recently installed his new garage door forgot to drill it in place? As a result, my brother's bottom retainer has a little dent on it that needs to be straightened out and drilled on the bottom of his garage door. My older brother is too weak to do it so, I'm going to do it for him. Thank you for posting this video; it's a life saver for my brother! Your instructions are very clear and you make it look easy!
Hello. I'm so sorry to hear that about your brother's garage door. It's really not a hard process if you use the right screws. What you're basically looking for are small one and a quarter or one and a half inch tap screws. I prefer to go with the smaller hex screws but you can also go with a Philips head screw. And because you'll be applying the screws under the bottom of the door you can be generous with how many you use. Basically you want to make sure it's secure and that the retainer is firmly established. Hope that helps!
Thank you for this video! One question: how can I straighten the bottom of a slightly bent garage door so that I can re-install the retainer (it is already off the garage door) with a new weatherseal? Thanks!
Hello! Bending a bottom garage door section is very difficult and in most cases not possible based on some damage to particular doors. Thus I suggest utilizing going with a L-shaped bottom retainer. This type of retainer can hide a bent door section when applied.
@@sosgds Well, that answers my next question because I have the same problem and I was avoiding having to use the L shaped bottom retainer, LOL. I didn't want my brother to fork out more money because he already paid dearly to replace the garage door!
@@sosgds Hi again! Do you recommend a particular L-shaped bottom retainer that would keep rodents out? Would the retainer simply attach by screws (or super strong adhesive) to the inside of the garage door, accepting the slight bend? My existing retainer has a track that inserts into bottom of door but since it is bent slightly would be very difficult (or impossible) to reinstall. thanks!
Didn't watch the whole video. 20 minutes, I was just looking for the tuck in. I'm sure it was a good video but I was waiting for seeing how you finished the ends
I'm having a difficult time finding the correct rubber retainer. The T-channels are not the regular 5/16. I already tried Lowes and HD and nothing. Mine takes half the size of 5/16 T. How do I know what kind od door I have. It looks pretty commercial, uninsulated and two inches wide on bottom. It had two grooves for the new seal IF I ever find one.
Hello. This is irregular. Standard T-Channel bottom seals will work on most T-Channel aluminum retainers. What exactly is the 5/16th measurement of? Is it the actual seal width?
So helpful, thank you! Needed to remove my old retainers to prep for new and wasn’t sure how to handle the bolts in order to keep tension. This showed me perfectly! All done now on my 3 car! Yeahhh me! Much appreciation to you.
Another fantastic informative video.. Wow that was a nightmare change out. Great job fighting through it. I appreciate the time you take to make these videos
@@sosgds nope we don't install them probably just because of the price point. But we do install the 3120h so the main part of the opener is perfect . I was kinda hoping it would be brighter,, but at least you can get the special leds through lowes or home depot.. unlike liftmasters which is an expensive led pod. I can't wait to see your review of it though!
I have some dings in the receiver and some rust. Spent $100 for a new seal that has the right track shape. It would not slide. We are trying to use a screw driver to pull it in the track- slow process. We are putting another rubber seal on the floor
Wow, that sounds frustrating. Some seals need a little bit of lube to slide on through. If the lube does not work, then you might have an issue with the bottom retainer.
Thanks for your instructional video. I viewed several w/s replacing videos; only you provided the cautionary statement saying that removing the bottom roller would cause harm. ❤
What do you think? Unique "24 gauge" pan door vs Amarr Lincoln 1000 25ga door.... which non-insulated door is a better deal? I see that Unique doesn't even have a service phone number to call, so that might outweigh the better hardware they use.
Thank you for this great question. I honestly don't think unique's garage door is better than Amarr's. But I also don't think that Amarr would my first choice. If you're familiar with unique and you're in the local area the garage door that I think is worth considering is from 1st United. 1st United is out over in Ontario california. And their 24 gauge is way better built than Unique garage doors 24 gauge. I actually think the 25 gauge from 1st United is a better door than Unique's 24 gauge. CHI is also another good one. Thanks for the feedback! I hope this helps in your search for a new door.
Great video! Thanks to you, I actually did it!. Of course, I am left on my own to finish because I will need to reason out a way to "tuck in the ends". I mean, do I cut lengthwise to make them fit easier, or do i just try to sutff them in straight? I guess I need to think. LOL Thank sgain.
I can definitely tell the second garage door you did to replace the bottom retainer the weather seal on the outside the door might need to be replaced pretty soon because it’s turning all yellow and I could see some cracking
Follow up to my post below: I just re-examined the seal/retainer with a flashlight. I now appears the manufacturer took the sheet metal the formed the back of the panel and brought the edge down past the bottom of the door, then folded it towards the front, and crimped the edge closest to the front of the garage door to make the single channel for the seal to go into. NO way of removing the existing channel as it appears to be part of the sheet metal of the back of the door. Still looking for advice.
Hello! Wow that does sound unusual. Was the older rubber seal hard to take off? Most bottom retainers are removable. Thus you should have the ability to remove it. Are you able to email me pictures? The in the "About" portion of my RU-vid channel you should be able to email me. I would to see pictures of what you are describing.
Hi again, wondering what type of L-shaped bottom retainer (with something to keep out weather and critters) you would recommend? I need something that will bend slightly to accommodate for slightly bent bottom panel. Are there strong adhesive-mounted or screw-mounted retainers that might work? Thanks so much for the help.
Hello again! Here's a plastic retainer with a seal that more malleable. It's not my favor seal/retainer combo but it should work with a warped or bent bottom section. Hope this helps! www.northshorecommercialdoor.com/gadobowesere1.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAq7COBhC2ARIsANsPATH7UqPMzX5S0_rqniBXDqIIyOv5VHfXa4BSCO_F4KmT2w_Qdq1r3h4aAhmpEALw_wcB
That's a great question. The door will raise about an inch with a new retainer/seal. You won't need to adjust the height of the door, but you will need to adjust the open and close travel to the motor. Hope this helps!
I'm trying to replace mine but found that plate on the bottom of each side of the door that has a cable attached is blocking the ends of the channels to slide the seal out. Any recommendations?
If you do have cables connected to your bottom end brackets then you truly want to reach out to a professional. Those cables are under a lot of tension because they connect to the torsion spring system. Thus you would need to release all the weight of the door to be able to get to that bottom section and be able to take off and install the new bottom weather seal. I wish this process was a lot simpler for you, but based on your comment it's much more difficult.
@@sosgds that's what I figured. I went to go look at mine after watching the video and found the bracket blocking the ends of the tracks. Then noticed a cable attached to that bracket and said no thanks I'm not getting hit with that
Hi there, thanks so much for your informative video! My retainer track is a P-Body style, and the retainer does not have access from the side to slide a new weather seal into. I have to pull one side of the retainer down so that I can access the track. My retainer is similar to yours, it's fastened on each end with two bolts running through each bottom bracket. If I unfasten each bolt one at a time, and tack into the slotting above each bolt, the bottom bracket should be free from any danger, correct? It's not going to fly off if I follow the steps you followed? Each bolt is fastened very sturdily, so I gathered from your video that it should be okay to remove one bolt, attach it to the slotting above, and then remove the other bolt, and attach it above as well. Thanks!
Hello. Please, please, please be careful doing anything with the bottom brackets. As a professional we try to work under the safest conditions to not injure ourselves. Thus I highly recommend outsourcing the help of a local contractor to assist you with that need. When I list the door I apply at least one vice grip under one of the rollers to ensure the door does not suddenly fall. Additionally, I wear the proper PPE, especially for my eyes just in case the bracket suddenly breaks off. I hope this helps.
Thanks for your timely response! I plan on doing this as safely as possible, but wanted to confirm that you didn't release any tension in your garage door when tacking the bottom bracket bolts into the slots above? I just want to make sure I'm understanding 100% before doing this. I understand that this is a dangerous task, and will not blame you if something goes wrong, I just want to ensure that I'm proceeding as carefully as possible. I will definitely use a vice grip as well, like you suggested.
@@slayer2580 Hello again. Yes, that is correct. No tension was taken off the cables. One or two tap screws were loosen. And with a flat head screwdriver simply pry gently on the bottom plate to slide in the bottom retainer. Hope this helps. Stay safe out there.
On the bottom side of a retainer can Teks (hex head self-tapping) screws be used or do the screw heads have to be pan head? I'm going to use a weather seal type with the tube inside of it
Hello! Yes you can use a hex screw that's self tapping. That should not be a problem. And I usually try and find a small as possible head screw so that way it does not cut open the seal when it closes. Hope that helps.
@@sosgds Yes (4x for 16' door, just need to cut one shorter). I just wasn't sure if it was necessary to seal the side edges of each piece when it butts up to the next
I went to replace my bottom garage door weather seal, only to discover it has a single retainer channel which appears at least, to be molded to the front edge of the bottom of the garage door. I had only pulled it half off before I saw this. The new track has dual tracks to retain the new seal but since the existing channel appears to be part of the bottom of the garage, not sure what to do. I can't install the new track because the old track occupies some of the width of the bottom, and now I can't get the old track back in until I come up with an answer. Any thoughts?
What did you end up doing? I'm in the same boat. I bought double track weather stripping on Amazon, but when I removed the old weather stripping, I realized that my garage door has a single track setup. Now I'm stuck. Is it possible to replace a single track retainer with a double track retainer? The single track weather stripping options that I see online seem smaller overall and guessing might not be as good. I'm hoping you can help me out. Thanks in advance!
@@sosgds I don’t know the brand. I just called out someone like you to save me. Had to take off the entire track to get that seal out! Haha. All good now. Your video was a great help!!
