Before buying a new seal, remove the old one and measure the width of the “T” that goes in the tracks. Many replacement seals are 5/16” and will not fit in 1/4” tracks, even with lubricant. I wasted money cutting one to length from Home Depot thinking these were universal.
Exactly! Also, you may not even have a T shaped seal. After ordering a 3/16 and a 1/4 T seal, I realized I in fact had a dove tail shaped 3/16 seal. It maybe a Wayne Dalton
Just wanted to say thank you for the vinyl siding videos you made a while back. I was able to finally get the gable ends of my 1910 workshop weatherproof and they look nice, too. Thanks for the videos. Very helpful.
Thanks. As easy as it was to take out the old vinyl seal, running the new one is not exactly the same😂. Definitely a 2 man job come time to feed in the new seal.
A couple of tips first remove all screws. Second slit the old seal down the middle. Third use a spray bottle with warm water with about 4 drops of dish soap shake it and spray the tracks and old seal , it will slide right out. Fourth Spray the new seal with the soapy water Fifth use a toilet paper roll to curv the new seal into position and slide it in. everything about ten minutes. The soap lubricates the rubber and allows it to slide easily.
@@avalanwa thank you! I am more into the tech side than the front of camera side. I have seen so many people do videos the wrong way, just turn on the camera and start talking, and moving the camera around giving me vertigo. Not having a mic close to them, you can barely hear them, while they ramble on jumping from one thing to another. If i did videos, i would prepare a script, shooting angles, and done properly, takes a while. The two presenters that I like best are Steve Lehto, a lemon car Lawyer, who loves cars and, Mustie1 who repairs small engines, small motorcycles, and VWs. They are both very good!
@@marlenachetwynd2925He's talking about the OLD rubber seal that's still attached to the garage.. Cut it the long way so there's two separated equal parts (doesn't need to be perfect since you're throwing it out). That way you're pulling/sliding one side of the rubber piece off the track instead of both of them at the same time.
You forgot to mention the biggest and best tip. The screw on each end are 9 times out of 10, screwed to tight which bends the track and won't let the rubber seal slide in the track. Bend the track carefully where the screw has pushed the track causing the rubber seal to not slide freely. A flat head screwdriver or stiff putty knife is what I use too bend the track carefully into place.
Glad to hear you suggest the "foam rope" (or foam backing rod) I plan to replace my seal today, and I actually bought a 5/8 rod for that same purpose! My floor isn't too bad, but we had a mouse problem and I suspect one of the places they get in is under the loose spots in the door seal. I'm hoping the foam will give it a bit more body and fill those gaps, but couldn't find any reference to it until I watched this video.
Thanks, Shawn. I just replaced my rubber seal for the first time after 19 years in this new house. Yes. I did it alone The end is twisted tightly, so you might want to start at the end because may come out of one side of the track. If that happens don't panic, then you need to use a flat tip screwdriver to reseat it. Extra pipe insulation helps with the unleveled floor as well. The insulation also helps with mice. Add some 100% peppermint to the inside of your garage door and you are good to go. Thanks for that great tip!
Thank you for this. Followed your instructions, and I did it! I lubricated the track with Tide, an old auto repair trick. Installed the whole way with just my two hands.
Amazon has seals with a round section in the center and its thicker then the one you have. Really nice seal and a little harder to install due to all that.
Great video. As somebody mentioned below, you absolutely want to add a little silicone lubricant to the tracks to help the seal slide through much easier. Also, you want to check the width of the seal itself. I went to my local big-box hardware store and bought a seal, brought it home and mounted it only to find out it wasn't getting a good seal with the floor. Took it back out and measured the width to 2.5"..... measured the old seal and saw it was 3.5". Took it back and bought the wider version. Now everything is good. Thanks for the video!
I have only seen one size but I guess it could be different in other areas , I can't say for sure. Can you take a piece of your old one to compare with in the store?
I knew you from your speaking that you're from good old Saskatchewan before I even read about your location. Great people in that province! Thanks for the help!
Was looking for instruction on replacing my torn garage door strip and was relieved to see you had a video on this. Love all your videos. You cover most, if not all, the possible scenarios well. thank you!
Good video except: easy one man job if one liberally sprays tracks with wd 40 and take a 5 ft broom handle, put handle in corner of garage, then drape 1 foot of seal over end of broom stick to hold it up when you start pulling the seal down the rail. Every 3-4 inches you have to do this. It goes in easy for about 60 percent of the way, then you have to inch your way by going up and down bottom of door getting slack out as you go along. The 16 ft. Door took me about 30 minutes to do this without someone to help me. Don’t force the pulling or pushing or you will rip it out of tracks.
This is very difficult on most doors, I have been doing garage doors for 25 yrs. Definitely takes two people, most doors have steel bottom astragals, they get corroded and are crimped on the edges.
Hey Tom just saw your video. One thing would be helpful is information to where to purchase this particular type weather strip. Not all Home Depot type stores carry some of these items. Or maybe you can increase your sales by offering stuff like this or that.
Bought my seal at Lowe's. They only had one size. After fighting trying to get the seal in for a couple of hours, found that the T on the new seal was too wide. Was able to trim it then it went in just like the video.
Several videos show that you have to remove the track or loosen the door from the track rollers, but I did like this video shows - just pull it out and slide the seal in the track, no need to take the track off. It was a hot day (85-90F) so the seal was very pliable and I was able to feed it in from the side. If it were a cold winter day, I don't know if the seal would be that easy to work with. I did need to use a screwdriver to straighten out the track at the ends where it had been crimped. I ordered a 10ft piece for my 9ft door, for an extra $1-2, I had a piece to experiment with. After I ripped out the old seal, I cut a 3-4in piece off and made sure it slid in easily after I straightened out the crimped track. I used silicone spray lube on the track to help it slide in. Like stated in the video, a second pair of hands helps to cradle the seal in the 'U' shape as it goes in on one end while the other person pulls it from the other side. It you don't keep it lined up, it will pull out of the track and you have to slide it back a few inches to the point where it is still firmly in the track. Also, the bottom of the door in the video was clean. Mine was dirty, and I vacuumed it and cleaned out the tracks with compressed air. No need to be afraid of this job. It takes some finesse, but not a lot of strength or skill. This video shows an easy way to do it.
I had no idea. I thought I needed a new garage door. So pricey so I looked for ways to repair and came across these videos. The first one I watched was teaching all wrong so thank you very much. .
If only mine had been this easy. The aluminum track for the weatherstrip on the bottom of my Wayne Dalton door was crimped at the ends, about an inch in. Looked like it had been done at the factory, making it much more difficult to swap this piece out.
So what did you do to get the replacement gasket past the crimp? I am having the same problem. Only one of the tracks is crimped on both ends; the other one is great.
Beware rodents. They will chew their way in at the ends. I've seen a Chipmunk do it. I've tried to discourage them by tucking in a short piece of garden hose with steel coiled around it. DLJ
Good video. Would have been useful for you to mention there are single tracks as well as the double you have. I have a single and this did not work so I need to install a new track first.
Lol wish mine was that easy. Just can not get mine to feed in, even making sure I have the right T size and using all the silicone spray in the world can not get mine to feed in. Almost a year without one now .
thanks for the video with details and the additional information on the foam rope . I am certainly looking forward to doing it myself now so glad i can save the installation charges
Good video! However, the bottom of my garage door doesn't have tracks, only one slot that is packed with old rotted seal. Do I have to disassemble the door panel just to install a special seal? Thanks.
Good tip on pushing foam rope inside the weather strip, I have done this on one end of mine only, to even out the contact across the width. I could always hear air rushing out under the door seal before, but not since I fattened up the seal with the foam. Thanks, good uploads here.
Thanks for showing it. I did not know it was so easy to install. Please let me know , where did u buy the seal & about the 1 inch foam rope? I want to slide in the foam rope to hide the gap between garage door seal & floor. I found out the floor is leveled & the gaps on the end is due to the door. Do I need to spray on foam rope silicone rubber spray to slide it through the seal? I use Orkin services lately to keep mice & bugs away & they replaced the seal & that opened up large gaps on both ends. Sales guy at Menard showed me to use the foam rope u mentioned & I have bought it. Now I am not sure how to slide it through the rubber seal. Please let me know if I should use silicone rubber spray to slide it in or apply dawn on the rubber foam? Thank you so much
I removed the seal. I've tried for about an hr to replace seal. I've used oil to lube the track without success in feeding the seal. Seems like the track gap is very narrow. I actually removed the entire track from the garage door & still very difficult to feed new seal even one inch. The seal looks just like the one on your video. Any suggestions?
My garage door weather seal track is rotten and rusty so it is not holding seal on it’s place. Any suggestions or economical solution for this problem. Thanks
There's part in the way on trying to slide weather strip in. I don't know what the part is called so I'm struggling trying to look it up. I want to temporarily remove the part but I can't figure out how to disassemble it.
That one good looking midwesterner! I like listening to him. Sounds like he is from Wisconsin... wait after watching more of the video..... i think he is from Canada.... ha where is he from ?
I just did mine......TNX......OH, I added some spunge at both ends inside tube and sprayed them heavy with Tomcat Rodent Repelant. Hope it helps me as I am battling mice infestation. ... PS, nevef store grass seed in garage. It is nothing but mouse bait
I bought a garage weather-strip that required nails or screws to install. Thankfully, I watched this video before installing it. I returned the wrong strip and bought the correct one, saving myself a lot of pain. Great work, Shannon! Keep it up.
On my door, the entire bottom comes off after removing 8 or 9 screws and two bolts at either end. If you're does this, just remove the entire track, remove the old seal, replace with new seal and reinstall the track.
Rather than bend the other end of the track, where the second screw is, just remove the screw. I sprayed silicone lube, in the track, to make installing mine easier.
My garage door is very thin tin. Its not the typical door thickness. I do not see any place where I can install a T seal. Its way too thin. Seems like there is one little slot/sleeve that runs down the whole length of the bottom of the garage door where a rubber seal use to exist before it got ripped off. I have no idea how I can install the classic T seal. Can I put a 1 x 2 along the length of the bottom of the door, and drill it onto the door so i can install a T Rubber weather strip seals? Please help. thanks!
That idea of a rope inside the tube was a good suggestion. I have that issue with uneven floor slab in a small job I did. The other challenge I encountered was that I could not slide the tube through as you showed because the door track was up agains the wall on both sides of the door so I had y3o improvise to get the tube in.
Have the old seal removed. Have an older door where the outer edge has a metal edge slightly blocking the channel. The metal edge connects to a cable as part of the door spring. Tried a couple times, but it is getting hung up as I try to fish the new seal through the channel. How do I make it easier to get the new seal in the channel?
Great video, just what the Doctor ordered, I've been putting this task off simply because of the unknown and surprise element, you made it look so easy, so now I'm going to man up and get the job done, keep the videos coming! 👍
So my backyard just flooded, and my garage got an inch or two inside it (and the lowest point is a back corner so getting it out won't be easy). I think it came in because there's a good chunk on the corner of my door seal missing and that part of the concrete has also sunk lower than the rest so water can just pour in. Going to try that foam rope trick on that corner with some new seal and hope that helps keep the water out when the door is closed.
Would there be anything wrong with cutting the bottom rubber seal off a little shorter at the ends so that the vertical weather stripping on the sides covers it nicely in the corners? Mine currently conflicts with that side seal and bunches up. Not a good seal. Light gets in.
In this little prairie town the only seal similar to yours is a Chinese import made of vinyl... without the stretch (which helps alleviate binding) of the stuff you used. Boiling this inferior product and spraying every inch of both grooves with silicone lubricant and a having a manually dextrous helper can help make the installation possible.
