GE Control Board Rebuild - WR55x10942 / WR55x10942p 

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My dude. You taught me how to solder properly. Thank you so much. I was wasting so much solder.

I had a problem with power supply so I changed all the capacitors at the control board and fixed

Love it!

Great tutorial! I am chasing an odd issue with my refrigerator where the freezers evaporator coil will not cool. I have verified that all of thermistors are changing state and the fans are all working. I am beginning to think it is an issue with a component on the board. Visual inspection of the board doesn't reveal anything suspect. Do you have any thoughts on what could cause this?

GE Artica S/S PS25NGMDCC Temp/ Control Board. WR55X10942P The lights go out and temps go down only a few degrees. Power off / on reset works for a time but same cycle starts over. Usually off/on once a day. I got 13.5 volts on each end of the wiring. I tried 2

Hi! First of all. Thanks for sharing this tutorial!! I have a ge profile PSE27NHWHCBB. After a blackout the condenser fan motor stoped spining and the refrigerator stoped working. and after unplugged and using a normal fan in the back everything went back to normal. I did this just in the mean time I got a new fun. But Before this my ice maker already stopped making ice so i would keep it turned off, but I dont know why really I had the amazing idea to give it a try and turned on. Minutes later the back of the refrigerator started smell burnt. Now several parts of my board burned out. Including one of the resistor and i think a little chip in the back of it. How is possible that turning on the ice maker can cause so much damage? Im really afraid thar replacing the fan and the board and turning on the ice maker again will blow up the brand new board. Can that be possible? I really hope you can help me before doing anything haha

I was wondering if you were ever able to fix your refrigerator by replacing the capacitors and relays. My fridge cools for one full night but then doesn't cool as good or maybe not at all the next day. I'm guessing it's the largest relay on the board causing the problem. I tested all the capacitors with an ESI meter and they only lost 10% UF which is normal

Hello, I have a broken WR55X10156 board and I bought a wr55x10942 instead by mistake. It has everything the same except that the WR55X10156 has some pins (J15) where the compressor is connected and the wr55x10942 only has the solder on the board without those pins. If I solder the two pins from my old WR55X10156 to the new wr55x10942, would my refrigerator work? Since all the new board is the same as the old one (Except that) Thank you!!

Hi, I have been watching your videos, I have a GE side by side that has me stumped it is not cooling adequately, around 10F in freezer, and around 45f in fridge. Board looks fine but get an Ohm of 11 on the fan resistor plug (I believe the condenser fan-by the compressor) but does not look burned, the fan itself spins when powered. When unplugged the fan does not spin freely like a top. Will replace the fan motor. What I have done so far is check Ohms on compressor and added a little R134a (filled to 6psi), Ohms on the pins check out (around 4,6,10) and get 1.03amps when running, just a little frost on the low side line, checked Ohms on the thermistors, they seemed to check out Ok per your previous video. Model is GE TBX21CIBRRWW. I am a home gamer but love to fix stuff that breaks. Hope you can help me out. Would just an evap fan cause this thing to not cool adequately? Also, would I have to rebuild the board or just change out the Evap Fan resistor if I still get 11Ohms after fan replacement? Thanks and I appreciate your videos. P.S, there is frost on low pressure line, the high side is not extremely hot, it is just warm though which seems odd.

Part 2 WR55x10120 is the part # of the Temp/Control Board. I tried 2 diff boards and got the same results. 13.5 volts at both ends of wiring. Main board looks ok.

My fridge is blinking the temp numbers 38 then 44 and dings each time. The inside is still cooling. We unplugged for 30 seconds. That did not help. Any advise?

Hi, I have a board exactly like this one and the little black resistor that's on the back connected to R12 has burned out. Any idea of where I can purchase it from?

Help, I have the same side by side with that board. It runs almost continuously. Too cold on both sides. I've swapped both boards.

Good stuff!!!! BK

Thanks …👍🏻

Nice

Hi, I have a question have you ever made a video how to test this damper part number us005876014A ?

Found it. Is it still available?

Is the board rebuild kit available? I may have missed it in your notes

What are the specs of resistors?