GE Refrigerator Not Cooling Clicking Control Board Repair 

Where did you get the calicitors for your refrigerator ar😊

I think I was looking at about $1200 for a new refrigerator of similar size so I figured I might as well give it a try. It also motivated me to get the water dispenser working after doing without it for over 5 years.

Glad it helped you fix the problem. Mine is still working since the repair. Don't forget to vacuum around the compressor to help it stay cool.

That’s a great idea…

Mine was doing the same thing. Water and ice dispensing stopped working and then one day it started clicking and stopped getting cold. Replaced the 2 caps and now it's working perfect again. Sure beats buying a new fridge. :)

MF is not the same as μF. These are 470μF - microfarads.

Where did you buy your replacement parts for your refrigerator😊

I'm glad you were able to fix your fridge. Mine is still working too.

Where did you order new capacitor from?

@@user-nd4gl9zb5i Amazon

I'm glad it worked out for you and saved you some money. Make sure to vacuum the dust out around the motor too. I thought mine had insulation around it at first but it was a layer of dust.

I'm glad it saved you some money. Mine is still working too.

Glad to hear you were able to repair the refrigerator.

I'm glad you were able to fix your fridge. Mine is still going strong. Definitely not a good idea to have the caps up against the hot heatsink.

Glad you were able to fix your fridge. Mine is still working.

Best of luck!

I had the same two caps bulged out the top, and a toasty R-12 underneath. Replaced both caps and the resistor and now my board is just ticking... incredibly frustrating since my fridge was working before - just the LEDs were dim and the ice maker was slow on ice - the 12V J4-2 J4-3 voltage was only 8.3V (should be ~13.5) and the fan supply J2-3J2-8 was only 10.7V. (should be ~13.5)

@@spblackey Awesome, good job!

You can get them from Newark www.newark.com/nichicon/uvz1e471mpd1td/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitor/dp/58R3366?st=Nichcon%20470uf%2025V or Digikey www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nichicon/UHD1E471MPD6/UHD1E471MPD6-ND/2428132

It is called a solder sucker and solder wick which can be found on Amazon.

Thanks, This video makes me feel the best because I realized afterwards that it saved people some money. I still have the same fridge but it died again last month. I had purchased a replacement board off of ebay back when I made this video just in case I could not fix it so I swapped it in. The fridge compressor relay was not working so I watch some videos and assumed it was the relay but it was not getting a start voltage from the control board. I have not tried to troubleshoot it yet but visually I did not see anything wrong. I was looking at replacing the fridge and quickly realized that the prices have really gone up so I saved some money again. If I troubleshoot it I will post a video. By the way I have a Norge customatic in the cellar that has been continuously plugged in for over 50 years and has never needed repair. It was my back up while I fixed the modern fridge that keeps breaking.

@@tmc200527 Good outcome. Your "investment" in the board paid off. Amazing Norge! I'll update with beer money, next time I see lady.

@@tmc200527 what eBay store did you buy your control board from and will I be able to return the board if the replacement board does not stop my clicking problem? Thanks

@@Ally-oi6lm It was B Lights Parts LLC I don't know what there return policy is. The listings do say 30 day returns buyer pays for return shipping. Make sure your model and parts numbers match.

I had a refrigerator once that had a cold freezer but a warm refrigerator and the problem was counter intuitive because I never thought about it. There is an automatic defroster element in the freezer section that prevents a build up of ice on the coils that get cold. Air is blown across those coils and sent into the refrigerator section. If the coils are encased in ice this impedes the flow of cold air into the refrigerator portion so if your freezer is cold and the fridge is warm you probably have to replace the heating coil in the freezer that periodically melts that ice around the coils. I found this link that might be the part you need and it goes for around $24. On the diagram it is part number 761. www.partselect.com/PS6883666-GE-WR51X10132-HEATER-DEF-ASM-FF.htm?SourceCode=4&SearchTerm=GFE27GSDASS Left click the diagram to magnify it. That long tube heats up and keeps the coils free from ice. I never thought there would be a heater in the freezer but that is an automatic defroster. I don't know if you remember that you use to have to defrost the old refrigerators yourself once in a while. I found some additional information here which indicates it might be a fan problem. www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/56994-GE-French-door-freezer-cold-fridge-not

there could be a blockage in the piping from the freezer to the cooler..or the flap that is controlled by the tstat on the right top, next to the freezer tstat is not working right. All it does is open a door to allow more cool air to go into the refrigerator section.. There is only one compressor and one coil inside the freezer that make the whole frige cold. So if it is not working right the refrigerator side will not cool, or will become slightly cool..

Gloria Miller I wouldn’t get hung up on model age. Problem is caused by same issue as older models. So if you find a fix here it will probably be the same fix. I know it’s been some months but someone else may have the same issue.

I have not heard of that before so I googled that problem and found a couple of suggestions. This problem is referred to as "hollow cubes" and it does cause the cubes in the ice bucket to stick together. If the refrigerator and the icemaker are level hollow cubes are caused by 1 of 2 things. The water fills into the end of the icemaker opposite the motor and controls. If the water doesn't fill all of the ice molds the one closest to the motor will have a partial fill. The thermostat senses the temperature of this mold and when the thermostat closes the harvest cycle begins. A partial fill causes this mold to cool faster than the other molds so the icemaker harvests partially frozen cubes from the other molds. To check this put your finger into the molds and see if the front one is less full than the others. I am sending you an image showing how to adjust the water level of the icemaker. If the water level changes again after you have adjusted it, replace the refrigerator water valve. The second thing that can cause hollow cubes is a defective thermostat inside the icemaker. If this thermostat fails it is slightly more expensive and much less work to replace the entire icemaker. If the water level in the ice molds is all the same I would replace the icemaker. It is also suggested to change the water filter every 6 months and check to see that the water line is not kinked.

U1 is a TOP246Y on my board. Here is a link to the digikey part they carry. It is obsolete but there is a substitute available. www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/power-integrations/TOP246Y/TOP246Y-ND/1007585

Hi Tom, Thank you very much for your quick response. I try to change this part. I remain subscribed to your excellent channel for the all goods advices. Thanks again for your help.

I do not repair appliances for a living but I did some research based on your question found this information www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/307737/Fridge+won't+hold+temperature+settings,+freezes+on+refrigerator+side There is a door that opens and closes in a box at the top left side inside my fridge section that regulates cold air flowing into the fridge from the freezer section thru a hole in the wall separating the freezer and the fridge. When you set the temperature of the freezer and fridge the compressor cools coils down to the set temperature but the fridge is cooled by drawing in cold air from the freezer compartment by opening up a flap on the top left side of the inside of the fridge section and drawing in cold air with a small fan. When the fridge reaches the set temperature the flap will close and the fan will stop. I'm not sure what you mean when you say the digital won't go past 2,1,1. If you can't adjust the display by pressing colder of warmer I would think that there is something wrong with that controller. If the temperature of the fridge is to warm the flap is stuck closed or the fan is not working. If the temperature is to cold in the fridge the flap is stuck open bringing in to much cold air from the fridge. If you recently had a power outage maybe you need to reset the display. Here is a link explaining the reset process. removeandreplace.com/2016/02/02/refrigerator-display-panel-is-blank-not-working-how-to-reset/ Hope this helps. Good Luck

As long as they have the correct ratings and you can make them fit it should work.

If you are describing part U2 on my board it is an L78M05CV which is a 5V regulator. Here is a link to the data sheet www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/1389935.pdf

It looks like digikey carries that part www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stmicroelectronics/L78M05CV-DG/497-14789-5-ND/3945944

There are multiple boards found in that model of Fridge if I remember correctly. I did not need the model number of the control board to get the value of the parts. The value and voltage rating should be written on the side of the capacitor. You can search for parts with Digikey or Newark Electronics or Mouser.com.

Here is the Newark part number 65r1968. This is the manufacturers Nichicon part number UHE1E471MPD1TD. It's also available from Digikey. The fridge is still working too. I did have to remove some more brittle water line but everything is working now. Even the water dispenser. Good Luck with your repair.

@@tmc200527 Thank you SO much!! And that's great to hear your fridge is still working!

She’s got some good luck

Digikey or Newark online or even amazon

I did not look at that spec but the fridge is still working.