Very nice project! ,, I’ve been side grinding on wheel for more than 40 years and I never had one or seen one explode, I think if it happens there might be a lack of common sense using this method, so great job!!
Very nice build. You could add a tray for all your dull drillbits to be collected in. And then when the tray is full. You can spend some time sharpening them all. Look forward to your next video.
I think the CSK setting is countersink. I have a diamond lapidary disc with mist coolant in a similar set up that I use for sharpening braised carbide lathe bits, been meaning to add one of these sharpeners to it. Thanks for the tips! We had one of these sharpeners in a shop class in the 1960's and used the side of the wheel and no one died, plus you are standing to the side of it.
Exactly CSK is countersink bit, and the distance from the wheel sets the indexing of the cutting edge when it engages with the abrasive, so getting it wrong messes up the cutting edge and relief angles
Great video. My father in law found a craftsman model at a garage sale and gave it to me. I have been procrastinating getting it setup on a grinder but your video makes me want to get it done so all those poor 1/8” and 1/4” bits I destroyed can get back to work.
It is good practice to buy a diamond grinding stone dresser, i run this every now and then across the surface and it makes it nice and straight again to maximize stone life. I stick to the instructions in the manual and determine overhang as 1/2 of drill diameter. This works out very good as the turning radius takes automatic care of increasing angle at back of the drill so you get a good clearance angle, makes the bit run less hot and keep a sharper cutting edge longer. I also do not use fixed positions for the tool, I made a large knob so i can just kiss the bit with the stone after setting the overhang to 1/2 drill diameter and then feed it in as required to get a sharp edge again. It is a magnificent tool if you want consistency, i am not skilled enough to do it by hand and eye balling it. I even use it for larger drill up to 25 mm, i use a piece of square steel 10 mm to support over larger length in the clamp. Works like a charm, i is funny how people have many different procedures to use this tool and get good results.
I appreciate this video more than you might know. Finding information on how to set up this little tool is scarce as hens teeth. However, I found a user guide (I wish I could remember the site) that was not as useful as your demo. There was one instruction I remember that may be useful. The pamphlet stated that the drill should be approximately I/2 the diameter from the grinding wheel. I have yet to test that instruction. If you have time I would appreciate if you could check it out. Thanks for the video. KOKO!!
One thing I learned is that Snap-On made this exact same drill sharpener and the directions under the box lid are the ones that you want to follow. I found an image on eBay. Works great.
I have the same drill charpener , and when drilling hardend metal such as angle iron used to support bedong after sharpening I con drill the angle iron at the lowest speed on my drill press and am able 3 or 4 holes before sharpening more than that , you have to grind of more because the tip of the drill becomes smaller in dia. with heat bild up ....
Hi Lee, you should think about the distance of the jig to the wheel. How I know, the distance from the tip of the jig to the weel should be half the diameter of the drill. Otherwise you can get a wrong cutting angle.
In the context of a drill bit sharpener, "CSK" stands for "countersink." A countersink is a tool or a feature in a drill bit used to create a conical hole in the material, allowing flat-head or countersunk screws to sit flush with or below the surface.
I made one very similar but I used a tool grinder wheel instead a bench grinder wheel. Don't the manufacturers say don't grind on the side of their stones?
Great project Mr. P. I've had one of these gadgets for a decade or so, in the box still. This may prompt me to actually get it out, and make something up. I'm thinking the box mine is in has "Snap-On" as the brand.
Lee you still at the same ole grind lol looks great Happy Easter now after I finish my coffee I get to go out to the shop and build me one thanks buddy lol Lee question would a plug and play inline foot control be an advantage that switch off and on would get to a feller after a bit ( pun intended) especially if you had several to do what do you think sir?👍👍
got one been sit-in on the shelf for a couple years maybe ill see if I can adapt it to my lathe cross slide I can cover the ways with a towel I do have a little green harbor freight belt sander I dont use I ll take a look after it gets light outside
Nice build. However, grinding on the side of a grinding wheel is a bad idea. I realize you are not exerting a lot of pressure. That said, if a drill bit digs in for whatever reason, you are going to explode the wheel.
Right out of high school I worked for a few years in a foundry. The castings were deburred on grinders. Every now and then someone would test the theory and bust a wheel. It’s pretty violent. I’ll concede that’s not the same as sharpening a drill bit, but if you bind the side of the wheel it could get your attention. I’m far from a safety nut. OSHA would be horrified in my shop. I was just making an observation.
@@MrPragmaticLee Any wheel manufacturer will confirm that grinding on the side of a conventional wheel is hazardous. Plate mounted wheels are design for this purpose.
A damage bit must be sharpend a little bit on each flut ,then resharpend a second time and possibly a third if you take to much of the first time the fluts become uneven .....
