You are a freaking genius thank you for that detailed build. I've watched a lot of videos and this one made so much sense in such a simple way thank you again! I feel smarter just watching your videos.
Larry I think everybody here wants to hear how it has worked in your greenhouse? Where are you and with heat gain and loss through the greenhouse walls has your system done the job you wanted? Hope you can do a followup video soon.
DISCLAIMER, I do not advocate or recommend any of these products or procedures are suitable or should be used in any way for any purpose. You proceed at your own risk and you are responsible for your own actions and the results you get by using any products or procedures noted here in. ====================== Home Depot 3/4 in. Blue Twister Polypropylene www.homedepot.com/s/3%252F4%2520in.%2520Blue%2520Twister%2520Polypropylene?NCNI-5 ======================= Menards, Search Bar, “poly pipe” press enter, Select, ¾ in poly pipe, (irrigation Tubing) press enter, make your selections. Air Separator Manifold, www.menards.com/main/plumbing/hydronic-radiant-heat/radiant-heat-manifolds-components/watts-reg-1-1-4-fip-cast-iron-air-separator/0858536/p-1444446195278-c-8523.htm?tid=-1863207083524858620&ipos=2 automatic air vent valve, www.menards.com/main/plumbing/hydronic-radiant-heat/radiant-heat-manifolds-components/watts-reg-1-8-automatic-air-vent-valve/0590715/p-1444446175469-c-8523.htm water expansion tank, www.menards.com/main/plumbing/hydronic-radiant-heat/radiant-heat-manifolds-components/watts-reg-2-1-gallons-non-potable-water-expansion-tank/etx-15/p-105478063016-c-8523.htm 3 speed circulator pump, www.menards.com/main/plumbing/hydronic-radiant-heat/radiant-heat-manifolds-components/hydro-smart-trade-1-25-hp-3-speed-circulator-pump/hs00r-3spdcsti/p-1450446643169-c-8523.htm?tid=-6119193669850601549&ipos=11 Circulation Pump Kit, www.menards.com/main/plumbing/hydronic-radiant-heat/radiant-heat-manifolds-components/webstone-reg-sweat-lead-free-isolator-circulation-pump-kit/h-51414wkit/p-1512026997655-c-8523.htm?tid=-8480272877282241141&ipos=12 Antifreeze, Propylene Glycol. Do your own research about what you are using and be sure to understand what this product is and how to use it safely. consult OSHA.GOV polypropylene glycol MSDS www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/hydronic-radiant-heat/hydronic-heat-cleaners-treatments/hercules-reg-cryo-tek-trade-100-anti-freeze/35284/p-1444449933130-c-8528.htm
Thank you for sharing, especially for your ingenious method of hole boring!!! I really appreciate your showing that because it's so low-cost and so creative; I have gotten in the rut of thinking I "must have special equipment" and your video brings me back to reality. Because you asked (and ONLY because you asked) , a couple of thoughts from a renewable energy engineer: 1. If (WHEN) I do this I'll put antifreeze in the lines; yes it will be expensive, and for 99% of the time unnecessary, but it will be an additional factor of safety. I'll also dig my horizontal lines lower (my frost depth in a good winter is four feet). 2. I hope the turnabout fittings you have at the bottom of your wells are rated for really high pressures; otherwise they might get damaged over time. I would probably improve on your method by wrapping the ends in something to protect against gravel intrusion. 3. It looks to me like you sunk way more than enough wells. I would be curious to know the results of a load test (if you are cooling in the summer, how much heat can the ground absorb before return water starts to get warmer, and vice versa for winter?) 4. Also out of curiosity, when I do this I'll try to find budget to sink a thermocouple down some of the wells to measure resource temperature.
Now that you have a year under your belt with this system, we would love to hear how it's working for you both summer and winter. We would all love to see a follow up video if that's possible. Thank you, John
John Wyman I was wondering the same questions. How does it work in the summer as for cooling. Wondering if it could be used in the desert to cool off a house ?
I made a system for my doghouse with a fan, pvc pipe(20 ft),it worked fucking great! I was 12 yrs old! 100 degrees outside, 80 degrees inside. Dog loved it! Solar and windmills all shit!! This science of using the earths stable yr round temp is awesome!!
Larry, you could lay some solid insulation over your wells and links to not lose a few degrees of ground temperature in the circuit. And even wrapping those pipes with insulation before covering them with foam board or other hard insulation material. I built a geothermal house did the complete install of pipe in a ground-loop system, built my own riser board to mount the pump, valves, to a Waterfurnace heat-pump. I heated and cooled the 3500 sq ft for $150-175 per month. It was a super insulated house with foot thick walls and 1 foot of attic blown insulation.
I agree insulate the upper tubes because heat will be lost to the cold ground in winter so less heat will make it back. In summer the ground will be heated by the sun which will reduce cooling performance. To my mind 60ft2 of tube surface area isnt a lot for heat exchange.
@@ВладимирПутин-е7м basically like a fridge; compressor and refrigerant of some type; heat exchange to ground loop. What he doesn't mention is the cost just went from 2-3k to 10-20k. For an outdoor greenhouse; this simple system is perfect.
Great idea. Can you do a short video using an infrared thermometer to show the incoming and out going temp of the water, during a hot day, and a cold day. and give the outside temp and temp inside the room. And maybe put a metal object in front of the fan to get a good idea of how cold (or hot) the temp of the air coming off of the fan is. also can you tell us how much water per minute is circulating, and how much kilowatt hours are being used.
Watched an 'off grid program' of a guy in Alaska ('Homestead Help' or something like that) and this guy had set up a greenhouse 'in Alaska' a 20' high glass, double insulated blah blah' and was growing Avocado trees inside'. He had it attached to a GeoThermal circuit and said 'my heating costs for this green house come from the heating I have inside' (the house) ' and geothermal." "Can't allow any frost in here or its 'all dead' (gesturing his trees and edible plants)." I was blown away. A greenhouse in Alaska usable ALL WINTER', even during 'dark days'. Wonder if they do that sort of thing in Russia?
LARRY first i would like to say thankyou for providing and insightful video of such a beautiful project with brilliant ideas. A real big thankyou!!!!!!❤❤❤
Putting it in the greenhouse is a great use for GEO. I put a sand floor in my greenhouse and electric ground wire system fresh tomatoes in December but the cost of electric heat made it impactable. I know there is water on my place there use to be a well covered now with a BBQ a rock ledge may be my only problem if the spring is running under or voer the ledge.
Now if you have central air in your house. You could install a evap coil and run this water throw it. Then use a relay and the exsting thermostat in your home to control temp by controlling the pump and fan. Also there's already an existing way to collect condensation in a air handler or evaporator case. Plus the added benefit of filtering the air.
Amazing! I am moving to NC and want to build a greenhouse thanks for answering the A/C portion in the green house! Im going to add solar and batteries with an A/C inverter to run the pump and fan! Thank you very much!
I am a electrical engineering student in the netherlands. We use alot of the geothermal effects of the earth. I really liked your video. I searched specific for DIY cause I want to make this one day. In short. You could also make the system to drive a generator and produce electricity. I really would love that. good luck
Not sure this system would work were as the temp is only 55 to run a generator. it's already using electricy for the pumps. it would cause a lot of friction loss to on incorporate sum type of electric generator.
You don't have to have steam in order to generate electricity. A stirling engine only uses a heat differential to create mechanical energy from a heat source and a cold (less heat) source.
Hey superedrix, Ik zag je reactie op de geo diy. Ben zelf informatie aan t verzamelen voor t effectief verwarmen en koelen van gebouwen en specifiek voor 4 season greenhouse. Als je leuk vind kan ik je wat info geven wat ik aan t ontwerpen ben. Waar liggen jou eventuele raakvlakken betreft kennis en interesses. Groetjes Ian
That's great for cooling but a black3/4 line in a spiral out in the sun .insulated. Would be the hot line just would have to put a few ball valves to switch from heating to cooling. Thanks for the idea
great job man! if i did this at my place i would need a rock drill attached to one of those fence post augur machines 😅 considering how expensive commercial setups cost, youve saved a mint
Great simple design ! I know it would cost more but using copper instead of plastic would transfer temperature more efficiently and last longer underground than plastic .
Copper certainly has better thermal conduction, but the added cost isn't worth it. Rather than significantly increasing costs and complexity by using copper, you could just drill a few.more wells. you'd also have to solder every fitting instead of easy to use hose clamps. each run of pipe would have to be thought out so the next joint could be made as opposed to just moving the flexible plastic where it needed to go. Last, I don't think copper would deal with the ground settling and heaving from the frost as well as a flexible solution will. So lots of drawbacks for better thermal conductivity that can be compensated for by adding a few more wells.
I dont know why this wouldnt work on a large scale with an air return and a decent sized cfm fan. In fact a solar panel on the circulation pump. And some simple duct work for a return that pushes the air over the coil and boom. You need only a drain for the condensation and I feel like you can heat and cool as big a space as you want
I'm planning on putting up a 20x50 workshop in Tucson and using this to heat / cool the whole thing. Don't see any reason why it won't work perfectly fine.
Hello Larry thank you for sharing the video. I am building a greenhouse for my hydroponic garden. Its very very hot here in Kuwait, and I want to use 2 cooling systems: Geothermal and water cooled air-conditioner. I buried my water hose 4 meters below surface. Because the sand is very dry in the summer. I laid plastic sheet under pipes to help keep moisture. In addition to that, I connected a drain pipe to about 3 meters down when I drain my water/solution tank so that I keep some moisture around the underground pipes to help in heat exchange. I am still curious about the delta T, temperature difference. I will add a water thermometer for water in and out of the system.
Unless I'm missing something here , why would you need a pressure tank for a system that wont ever have high temp that would cause expansion ?? Its a complete waist of a pressure tank that will never see any pressure ! Unless your planning on using another source of heat on this system.
Once you put a heat pump on that circuit, it can be used for AC as well as heat. You will most likely need to have a heat exchanger and put anti freeze in the circuit. Note in northern locations you need to go 5 feet down with your trenches. The pros use poly fusion because of the glycol. They also fill those holes with concrete. Just saying I have worked on these systems as a plumber and steamfitter.
Two taps, one on each incoming waterline, to stop flow or enable you to change the fan for another device.less mess and saves time. Ted Ryan AUSTRALIA. PS. Thank you Tr.
The worm gear clamp should be checked for steel components, since lots of these worm gear clamps are steel worms and stainless steel band. Use a magnet when selecting the worm gear clamps and anything that sticks to the magnet put it back on the shelf... that won't last long while underground, in water.
Wow super job! If you find an efficient water source heat pump you could heat and cool your home as well as domestic hot water for very small cost, and even lower energy consumption! It's not hard to add on, and it could easily handle your home plus any additions
Gotta say, the way you dug your holes is really smart! Sometimes the simplest solution is the best. Really cool. Like you mentioned, you could add a ground source heat pump to this loop and depending on your insulation and the climate you live in, you could have a heated garage, or heat a hot water tank.. or all of it as well as cooling for the greenhouse! The bladder tank is a nice touch, it will keep your pressure consistent, but as an added benefit you run a lot less risk rupturing your lines with a temperature change of your fluid.
What a great idea. The title of the video says #1, is there supposed to be a second video? I see you have a lot of private videos in your play list? Since this video is 2 years old, could you make an update video? Would you do anything different?
Hey that is genius by the way. I think I got some old radiators and some stuff and I might have to rig something like that up when I get my greenhouses going here in a few months I just wanted to say thank you . I'll probably modify that a little bit and make my auger do muscle work but I was originally going to do like a fan drive with just air and and pipe running underneath the ground underneath the foundation
Thanks Ron! At 75 I wish I had the time to create and edit videos and post them on all the things I do. If I did then all I would be doing is publishing and I would have no time to do any of my projects. Some of them are my 18W x 40L x 12H greenhouse from 1.5" pvc and lumber that I built in just over 3 weeks for under $1,200.00 and it totally laughed at 60MPH wind gusts. I am building a "She-Shed" on the property for my wife and 14 grandkids. Also I added a Bosch Heat Pump to the ground loop you commented on. I am wiring, trimming and finishing the greenhouse, the workshop. I have a small farm that makes huge demands on my time. I ride and race dirt bikes and my custom road bike has over 100K miles on it, I also build, restore and customize all kinds of bikes. I'm gathering materials for my 24' positive displacement wind generator design and as a certified scuba diver, I'm well along with my high powered, streamlined underwater propulsion unit capable of up to "25MPH UNDER WATER" and many, many other projects. Of course, that does not include the time consumed by the gorgeous gal who keeps me grounded and motivated. Thanks again for your kind words, Larry
I'm planning on building a Climate Battery underneath a greenhouse I'm designing right now and that made me think about doing that for a raised foundation home if I were to use an ICF foundation and SIP's for the exterior walls and roof. I'm also interested in doing a system like yours for hydronic heat loops underneath the hard wood flooring to radiate the heat. I've never seen a system like yours but it's worthy of consideration to think about. I would think that combining at least two systems together would work supper well and might increase the temperature in the winter. My thought would be to install your system as a radiant heat loop system in concrete and have the tubes attached to rebar inside of that concrete so that it helps transfers the heat to have better heat radiation coming from the concrete inside a greenhouse. Put that block of concrete or wall of concrete on the back wall of the greenhouse or even the floor but also connect it to a solar system to increase the output and thus be able to heat the structure to whatever temperature you desire for free besides the cost of the supplies and labor. I'd have to think about this a little bit more but I can imagine doing this same thing in a home. I'm a carpenter and build homes from the ground up only using my own hands and without any hired labor except on concrete days.
I have friends that don’t work well with others and me and a helper are 3 -4 times faster without compromising quality it is impressive but not as efficient and they would make more but lack the social skills or patience I suppose
@@jonathanbuford1793 I've hired people to work with me before and have no issues doing that but I like working alone and taking my own sweet time. Besides, I don't have to pay those labor rates. I'm building a 64x40 post frame shop on my property right now all by myself. It's going up fast. It keeps me very much in shape doing it alone and I like that.
At the end of the video their was an opportunity to view the video, "GeoThermal DIY #2" which demonstrates the insertion of the Propolene Glycol antifreeze into the system. You can view the video here, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pfJQWDf958E.html Glad you enoyed the video.
This looks pretty awesome. I have been thinking about doing this exact same thing. i just want to keep my garage from freezing and maybe cool it in the summer. i too would like to see what the temps are at the radiator. great job on the build
Love it! I'm thinking of trying a similar thing, open loop style. Water from my well already runs continuously to the barn all winter. I figure there that's a huge untapped heat source, but haven't run the numbers yet. I have a number allergy.
i thought of doing the same thing for many years however, instead of a radiator, i thought of using 55 gallon plastic barrels inline with each other. full of water. You have massive amounts of thermal energy stored in the barrels of water. The barrels spread out would just radiate heat placed at strategic locations. Wouldn't have the cost of and expensive of running an electric fan
I've seen similar drilling techniques when researching about drilling a well. I understand doing the vertical lines as opposed to using a large area.. Just not sure why you didn't want to put in the compressor and exchange , to have much more heat available.
This just went on the list titled " What would You do with an extra $1000/mo? " great job man! im curious as to what you would do different if anything after having used the system and what performance tweeks you would make if you did it again.
At a quick glance, i noticed no one commented on the staging and routing of the geothermal system. it is common knowledge that an electric pump generates it's own heat and is cooled by the water it is pumping. the proper order for this type of system should route from the field through the radiator first, then through the bladder tank and finally through the pump and fed back to the field after having lost most if not all of the heat. hot water through a pump will cause it to fail prematurely. plus you want to use the water for heating at it's hottest available, the less time the water has to cool before going through the radiator, the more efficient the system will be.
Pumps used on hot water systems using a boiler are designed to function efficiently with hot water and not fail plus remember this water is only 55-60 degrees anyways
Excellent DIY design. No 'contractors' necessary. Would love to see more of the howto on the drilling. Perhaps he could have gone deeper and buried the 'hosing loop arch' deeper down to avoid frost and get a more consistent temperature. Love to know what region he lived in and 'base temperature' of the soil.
I noticed recently at Leiden, Why those contractors putted down A few hundred meters 2 inch black plastic pipes.. geo thermal heating ! Because of the clay did they use drilling machines, and they digged A large scale of pipelines at least one meter deep in the ground. Thanks A lot, to see this simple design! Have A merry Christmast, and A happy New year.
@@ВладимирПутин-е7м , however use Google by checking what this man promissed: Normal at ten meter deep, water temperature is only 12 degrees Celsius. In the Netherlands have we to dig 100 meter, before the temperatures teaches 55 degrees Celsius. So, our men must have known, to have builded his house above A warmwater well... His systhem can help prevent agains frost, and iT might help to cool the house in the summer till 12 degrees Celsius. But by 20 feet in No way till A warm house.
hey! I like your pressure gauges. A lot! :) Love the sight glass! I'd have also liked an inline temp gauge of some sort just for an extra giggle. just getting a feel of the pipe is very cool also.
I think you could have gone down 25 feet or so for the drain and then as deep as you can get with a mini jetter set up and then used all the surrounding ground well water depending on how you filtered it and maybe even routed it through your home or water heater during the winter for heat.
Looks awesome would love to see some video evidence of efficientcy temp of radiator vs air temp before/after on/off Few hours or however long you like I mean it's a lot to install
Hi Larry, I’m extremely impressed with your ingenuity.. truth is brother.. I need this bad LOL I’m a military guy here in Tennessee, (101st AB Div) I have a remote piece of property, and I’m building my own hybrid cabin. I’ve done all the work myself. so very close to being Completely off grid... but I certainly could use some expertise or suggestions on how to complete a project like this, do you have a materials list by any chance That I could get..? Thank you!
The ground stays at a consitant 55 degrees and keeps the garage at 55 rather than 0. Not sure how good it works but 55 is still pretty cold. But what do I know.
Damm that is the cleanest shop i have every seen...... is water flow on demand from the stat only ? Also do you find the small ex tank sufficient , i was thinking a larger tank would be nice but may act as a thermal sink
I like your system and the simplicity of it. I'd like to incorporate a ram pump into a system like this. I think ram pumps have a great potential. My thought is to just have a long loop that continually runs with few things to maintain or energize. I would appreciate your thoughts anyone.
BTW mayby you could somehow make the hot water into steam and power a small turbine that powers a generator. Thinking small ofcourse not like reall geothermal power plant size but small. I don't know if there are such of things. but it would be nice
You'd need to be in iceland or somewhere like a plate boundary. In the middle of a continental it's not hot enough for steam any reasonable depth in any reasonable place. It could work at old faithful, but... it's not really accessible.
Only about 20% of the United States is suitable for geothermal power production that's more of an opinion really it's quite expensive to go down as far as you have to go there's a lot better sourcesOr I think eventually getting solar and geothermal energy are only real options
Excellent DIY setup. Can't believe you did nearly all that yourself. I have concerns about the depth of the lines outside. Do you get frost in your area? What is the likelihood that frost will affect your circuit during winter?
Did it actually worked...? What were the temperatures IN REALITY, no in theory... There will be some heat losts during the transport etc... How much degree did you actually managed to squeeze out of it? Lets say its 32f outside. Whats the water temp incomming in? Whats the radiator temp?
Very Nice! Why did you decide on 10 wells? Why not 20 or 5? I love the idea but would like to know more about the thermal capacity of the ground. Can I "heat" the ground losing efficiency but gaining planting time in a greenhouse, can a system be put in more linear and help keep my grapevine roots warm all winter... LOL, all rhetorical....I love the idea!! Nice job!!
I have studied Geo for cooling process water in the summer & heating in the winter. I came up with 600ft under frost line can equal 1 ton off chilling/heating
All he is doing is running a pump. This would be a scenario where increased flow would only make heat exchange and BTU output higher per hr with no compromise as we aren't burning any fuel inefficiently or trying to control return temperatures to stay at highest efficiency
Thank you for the video. This looks like a great project. Would you share your parts list? I see a number of valves and fittings around the circulating pump and am unsure as to why they are there. I am obviously not a plummer and need the help.
I'm not a plumber either, but I see Larry has a teed ball valve on each side of the pump, with adapters to take a garden hose on the right-hand tee, which is for filling the system. At least one set of valves placed around any part that can break or wear out is usually for ease to remove or replace that part in the future, especially without draining the system.
Distilled Water is the best for continuous systems. You only use antifreeze is you don't think you are going to run the system when the ground is frozen. This is the beauty of using a bypass solar water heater. The solar water heater is a free water pump. As the water heats the pressure rises and the water expands, which forces the cold water up from the feeder end of the loop into the water heater. Solar water heaters can heat water to over 260 F (or 127 C) so a carefully designed temperature release valve must be established. Love from Chicago...
How would gt system work as zones. ie the garage in-floor, or after this winter a thermal driveway sys. You're in good shape, you sure you're not plumber ? good job, lawrence. thank-u
Just a thought for those who would like to get a low level of electric out of something like this. I don't know how effective this would be but perhaps for charging a small battery set you could put a small micro hydro generator in the water flow so that as the water is circulated that it could also make some micro production.
The pump which is circulating the water is using electricity. Putting a device inline to try and generate power within the water flow would cause the pump to work harder to circulate the water thus using way more energy than you would create. It's like trying to put a wind turbine in front of a electrical fan you have to plug in or using light bulb you have to plug in to generate power from a solar panel....
Anyone know if it would be more efficient to use 1", 3/4", or 1/2" for the underground pipe? I only have 900sf to cool. So i plan to build a 2 or 3 ton system. I have an old well (not used) on the property has 20 or 30ft of cold water, i may use to loop the return pipe down and back up 3 or 4 time before going back in the house.
This is good system for a mild climate but here where the ground freezes many feet deep this system would fail. Those metal pipe clamps are notorious to fail. If used, at least cover them in a thick layer of roof patch tar. If tar can keep dinosaur bones for millions of years it will keep the clamps safe.🤔👍
So, how many total wells did you drill. I thought I heard you say 10 in one place, but I never could find the place on the video where you stated that?
Larry I like your work, nice and neat. But I'm confused to how this could heat your shop? At best you will have a fan blowing across a 55 degree radiator. So you can't get above 55 degrees at the very best, and more likely not above 45 with heat loss to the environment. Are those temperature all you require?
