German Kfz.13 Scout Car - 3D printing, painting, and weathering (1/35 scale model) 

Thank you mate, will do!

Thanks. I'm keeping a close eye on his Cult3D page for any new models.

Thanks for the tip - I tried that recently (remove before curing, not the hot water bit) and it worked really well. I'll have to try the water next time.

Yes, I was very impressed indeed. I'll be keeping an eye on his Cults3D page for more models!

Thanks! I'm looking forward to more kits from the same designer.

Thanks - much appreciated!

Thanks - glad you liked the end result!

Same! I get a bit bored with the endless Panzer IV slightly-different-version-made-by-one-factory-for-one-week releases

It was!

Thanks. Yes, I really like these less well known subjects.

Cheer Les - good luck with the truck!

Thanks :)

Thanks. Yes, there's a bar to stop the muzzle going down too low but still definitely not my idea of fun either!

Thanks. Yes, I think the same modeller does a German radio set that could perhaps be used in this to convert it to a Kfz 14 too.

Thanks Steve

Thanks Liam

Thanks

Thanks Mark. I think any softness is due to my 3D printer and settings - ultra crisp edges are quite hard to achieve.

Thanks

Amazing that is a printed kit. If you don't mind me ask which printer do you have and which resin did you use? Also the layer exposure time if you have it, it may be a good start if I decide to buy and print this.

I have a Creality Halot One Plus and I use water-washable resin. I'm not sure about the layer time - to be honest, I just use the default settings :)

Thanks mate

Possibly the thickness of the resin compared to plastic?

It's a fair question. I'm not familiar with the Bronco kit but my looking at the instructions from Scalemates it seems to have a little more detail (although maybe not that much more). It will benefit from the ability to have thinner parts than a resin print though. A quick scan showed the Bronco kit for around 25 GBP, so almost twice what the resin kit cost. I suppose another advantage of the resin kit (although one that might only be useful to a few people) is the ability to print as many as you want once you have bought the kit. Although I've bought several 3D kits and haven't done that with any of them yet. I do think this kit shows just what is possible with 3D printing though: the printers are getting better (and cheaper) and the design skills are out there. As I said in the video, I wouldn't buy a 3D printed Tiger, Sherman, or Panther kit - but something like this (and the IF8 trailer I built before) are good subjects. A niche production method for niche subjects! :)

Thank you Alan. Recently I've switched to AnyCubic water washable resin. Really helps the post processing steps (and cheaper because you don't need to buy alcohol)

@@ModelNerd sorry I worded that badly, I meant which printer, not the resin

Thanks

I have had some issues, yes. There are so many variables but I've narrowed it down to a few: Levelling - on my new printer it seems harder to fully tighten the build plate, so it does seem to move slightly over time. I think this is made worse by the sucking action of resin sticking the bottom of the resin and being pulled up by the build plate. I also think that larger (taller) models exacerbate any issues with levelling. I.e. if a model is 1 inch tall and the build plate it out by 1 degree, that will have much less effect than if the model is 12 inches high, because it is further from the build plate. Size - as larger models weigh more, it tends to pull it off the build plate more readily Temperature - for me, this is the big one. Being in the UK and printing in the internal but unheated garage, I'm looking at maybe May to September for 3D printing. I've a lovely insulated garage door, but this needs to be open at least a few inches to run out the fume extraction, and I think the draft this creates is enough to cause a problem in cold weather. I'm looking at investing in a 'tent' to go over the printer but I don't want to spend what they cost!

@@ModelNerd hi chap. Mine is in the garage, (West Yorks), but is in an enclosure covered in bubble wrap with one of those aluminium foil bubble wrap sheets on the top. I run a multi block into the enclosure and have a 500W ceramic heater on it set to around 27. This keeps the enclosure around 30-32 with around 25% humidity. It's a Halot Mage and so has the carbon filter and extractor on it which I put into an old spray booth expandy pipe and out of the garage window. Agreed re the variables, (AAARRRGGGHH!!!), and the lines do look like it could be wobble, getting worse as the Panther upper hull in my case, gets to around 50%. Keep up the good work chap. I nee to look at how tight everything is, but also I think I may be running foul of movement in the old garden table I have it on plus the bubble wrap on the base.

@@mikelucraft I wondered that about my table too. I'd set the print speed lower to reduce wobble, but some prints are already 9 hours!

@@ModelNerd 22hours for a panther Ausf.G upper hull to print and it was written off with the lines on it, gradually getting worse. Doing a Turret now, see how that does after a few adjustments :) Keep safe and thank you.

Unfortunately I don't think so

Hi. More parts isn't necessarily better or worse. Often parts are separate because it allows more detail to be included / added. In the case of 3D prints it might be easier to print some items separately because of the limitations of the technology (e.g. overhands need supports which can be hard to move or can damage fine detail, so it might be better to have parts separate).

Thanks

How is the Bronco kit?

Not at the moment. I might put some of those very basic models I built for the Ardennes diorama up there at some point (for free).

I'm not an expert but I believe it os the slicing software, not the printer, that adds supports. Which slicer do you use?

@@ModelNerd I'm just using anycubics, as I have their photon mono 4k

@@rickmoreno6858 Ah yeah, is that Halot Box or similar. It has the 4 icons across the top centre to represent the layout-support-slice-export workflow? When I use that it doesn't add any supports for me automatically (although there is a delete all button just in case). From Layout, can you just click the Support stage and then immediately the Slice stage? I would also recommend Chitubox too - it's my main slicer and very easy to use.

@@ModelNerd ok well thank you I will give that a go on the chitusite. Thank you very much! Your kit turned out wonderful!

Thanks Rick. If it still doesn't work give me another message or send me an email (address on the 'About' tab) and I'll do my best to help you.

Thanks. The paintwork certainly highlights why knowledge of the grey and brown scheme eluded people for some time - they blend in very well under a matt coat and a dust coat.