Thank you for this video training. I too have had trouble printing threads. Using a Bambu Lab Carbon X1 it was found that using smaller layer heights and using the silent speed setting after the print started did help a lot in forming better thread profiles. We didn't need strength, so the screws were printed standing up vertically. For some reason the nuts, the female threads seem to always print better. You are an excellent instructor and I enjoy learning from you.
Thanks very much for the possitive comment. Regardingg the female threads seeming to print better than the male ones, I believe that's because a concave curve provides more structural support than a convex curve, so it can deal better with overhangs.
I saw another video somewhere, where some (bigger) threaded bolts were printed laying flat on the bed, after splitting them in two symmetrical halves. That makes them SO much stronger in the desired direction. Using 0.2mm nozzle would allow for quite (also smaller) useful threaded bolts and nuts 👍😊
This is a very good suggestion! If you added some pins for the split to make sure it lined up correctly, and used a dab of glue alongside them to fit them together that'd be a very strong and secure thread. Thanks for sharing your findings with the community :)
Thanks for the video. As for the insertions, I am inserting them with my soldering iron - works perfectly. I am still wondering if I better pause the printing and insert them before continue. Never tried it yet.
I wouldn't advise inserting threaded inserts mid-print. Unless you wanted to start using your soldering iron on a half-printed model on your print bed (which would also affect the surface the next layer will print onto), you'd have to just include a larger hole to slot the whole thing in. However, if the hole is big enough to slot the whole thing in, the threaded insert is just going to be loose inside the hole and would rotate when trying to screw into it.
You can also make a pilot hole in your part to locate the hole. Then drill and tap the holes. You can also get screw in inserts that can be epoxied in.
True, drill tapping is definitely preferable to self tapping imo. I didn't cover the epoxy threads as I feel they offer anything over the melt-fitted ones for 3D printing, but are definitely worth mentioning so thanks for highlighting them here.
If precise position is required, tapping a small thickness with perfect accuracy can be challenging. It's hard to make it perfectly perpendicular@@3DRevolution For precision, it's easier to 3d print large diameter threads. I custom make them with 45 degree overhangs, so that also prints better at any layer height.
