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Thank you, very nice. Can you help me please? I have imported two models, a 2mm back piece and a 1mm front piece. How can I raise the front piece 2mm off of the plate so that it rests on top of the back piece? Thanks.
How do you even get to bambu studio? All I can find is the handy app and it doesnt look like anything can be designed at all, nobody says anything about this in any videos 🤷
Bambu Studio needs to be run on a computer, where as the Handy App is specifically a mobile app. You can download Bambu Studio for Windows, Mac, or Linux (via a GitHub link) here: bambulab.com/en/download/studio
@3DRevolution thank you, I kinda just figured that part out lol. I finally found some documentation on it that wasn't from bambu, and it says nothing about it on the website either that I saw, which is very frustrating to say the least. I appreciate your fast response tho and it probably won't be the last question I ever have. 🤣
I was also looking around for a riser quite some time now. And that one displayed in the video also got my attention for quite some while. But I feel it's besides storing a bit of tools, which you could also easily store at another place, unpractical. A lot of errors or maintenance require or make it much more handy when reaching in from the top. So when this occurs you still need to take everything off, including the riser. At least with a lot of AMS-risers, you have little to no space to reach into the printer from the top because they might be verry low due to their drawers or other things. So a AMS riser surely could be verry handy, but not many are designed verry practically.
It's true thst most risers don't allow you to access the printer from the top whilst fitted, but as I explain, the main point of a riser (especially one like this with a solid top thst blocks access) is because you're storing your AMS on top. If that's the case, even if you didn't have a riser, you'd still need to remove the AMS to do any top maintenance, so lifting the riser off instead would be absolutely no difference. If anything it helps as it provides me more access from the top without needing to remove the AMS, reducing the chance I need to lift anything off. In the 8 months I've had this one fitted, I've removed it on 3 occasions, and two of those were for recording videos. So if you're storing a AMS on top, using a riser doesn't make top access any harder and in some cases makes if easier. If you're not storing an AMS on top, as you say, there's other riser designs tbst give you complete top access and ifs no different to just removing the glass plate like normal.
@@3DRevolution Well I need to put the AMS on top because of the space I have. So a riser might be a good solution here, since you're still able to get the glass plate open or even of. But needing to get everything of is the same effort as printing without. But fortunately there're a few designs out that tilt the AMS slightly over the back of the P1/X1 leaving more room in between. Or AMS risers that seem to be a bit higher and not having drawers. Some designs actually might give enough space removing the plate and having some decent room on the top to reach in and doing some light maintenance or repair works on toolhead, tubing, rails etc. Also for cleaning and lubing. Without the need of taking everything off all the time. Which might be a big advantage for people who have their P1/X1 just on a little table.
That's very odd. PLA is the staple printing material and is printed around the world on all sorts of 3D printers, most of which don't even have an enclosure, with no warping. If you were opening the doors and removing the lid half way through a print that 'could' have an impact as it would suddenly change the printing environment which will affect print performance, so you could end up with a before /after quality line on your print. Alternatively, if your printer is in a particularly drafty area blowing air of different temperatures around, I guess that could have an impact. But either way, you shouldn't be getting warping with PLA purely due to not printing in an enclosure.
NO AMS here, but I still like my riser (very similar to yours). It keeps my small tools and spare parts handy and together, provides safe storage for the top glass and build plates, moves the external spool mount to the side for easy access, and still lets me store an airtight filament bin on top. It did make a strip of LED lighting a necessity instead of a nice-to-have, but I was going to add that anyway. Wiring to my LED strip does have inline M&F connectors to ease maintenance, but I seldom need to remove the riser.
Hello and Thank you for this video. I have a A1 mini. and at 4:24 of your vid, we see 3 options. on a mini there are 2, there is only maint, and cal options. Still trying to find where the setting is buried, or if it was missed
I dont usually remove the top or open the door when printing PLA and I have had no issues with that, no warping no heatcreep, I haven't seen the chamber temperature go above 36°C I have thought about printing one of these risers but it is just one more thing to remove when doing the maintenance as I prefer to have access from the top. I have a minimal riser under the glass to give a better angle for the Bowden tube going into the toolhead and to stop the Bowden tube scraping along the glass top.
Thank you very, very informative video. I’m running process slicer2.8.0. Could you update this video to the latest software? Look forward to your next video.
I'm really glad you found it useful, thanks for thr comment. I will be doing an updated version of this video later this year so keep watch. Happy printing
Yes, it could do, but... If the enclosure is closed, any normal fan would just circulate the air. If you had an extractor fsn, unless you fitted it at the top (which isn't possible without a riser or further mods because the top is just the removable glass plate) , it's not going to be sucking the hot air that's risen to the top, and also would rely on equal gaps for ventilation for cooler air to be sucked in, which other than the purge chute also doesn't exist natively.
I think we are talking in the context of when you do need a riser or to remove the lid according to the wiki/bed temp. What plate and bed temp are using to print PLA? Also when a company gives recommendations, they are trying to minimize customers from having issues. In some circumstances some people may not have issues, but other people will. And they want err on the side of caution.
Well done. The thing you didn't mention is that recycling filament is actually very hard. David Florian does a great video on this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cIh0n2zOCfM.html
Thanks I'll check it out. Regarding not mentioning the challenges in recycling filament, did you watch my whole mini series? This was just the summary episode at the end but multiple times in my series I talk about the difficulties in recycling filament. I link to the series in the video description but here it is as a playlist: ru-vid.com/group/PLs1JXSLQ6-i54mgWm9aNiwbbSxSzBc2zT&si=m5ZFegGvma6zqhGJ
In the 7 months since this video was published I've had a few similar requests, and more recent software tutorials now feature some mechanics that can make it easier to follow on a smaller screen. I hope thst helps, happy printing.
I can't get this to work for anything :( I click plus and the color changes in the Preview. Then in order to be able to slice again you have to change something with the model, so I move it and move it back. Slice again and print. It still never pauses and waits to change filment, it just prints the whole thing What am I doing wrong?
I'm not an expert, but does it really wear a PTFE tube out, if it's rubbing with barely any pressure against a glass surface? I didn't experience anything like that with my P1S, and it has a few thousand hours on it.
I put one of those minimal risers under the glass, apart for stopping the Bowden from scraping on the glass it allowed a better angle for the Bowden going into the toolhead, have you seen how the scraping Bowden tube affects printers with acrylic tops? the Creality and QIDI printers lids get very scratched up, I didn't see any damage to my glass top but the amount of errors decreased significantly and when the FW update came I no longer got any errors when filament was being loaded and unloaded. I am in two minds whether to print one of these type of riser, I don't usually open the top or the door when printing PLA and I don't have any issues, the chamber temperature never gets above 36°C and if it did I could set the chamber fan to activate and keep the temperature low enough, the noise difference is massive also with the printer closed up.
The tutorial is good, but the massive amount of advertising interruptions makes it very jarring and frustrating. Every 3-4 minutes I have to deal with another set of ads that might not be able to skip. Also, If I've paused the video to look at what you are teaching on my own install, when I return to the tutorial, its another set of ads. A couple of ads in understandable, over 20 is excessive.
I'm sorry you had a bad experience with the adverts on this video. This video is 77 minutes long and has 8 advert placements on it (so on average are approximately 10 minutes appart. However, RU-vids algorithm usually doesn't play every advert when someone watches it. The slots that you add are optional potential slots where an advert may or may not be shown. So someone else could watch this same video and only see two adverts. RU-vid recommends 2-3 advert placements on a 10 minute video, so if I were to keep that for this, I'd have put the time in to make a video 1 hour 17 minutes long, but would only receive the income from a video an 8th of it's length. I could have done as some other RU-vidrs do and split this up into 8 shorter videos, each which would have 2 adverts before the video starts playing (as is standard on RU-vid) followed by 2-3 mid-play adverts, but I figured this would provide the best experience for viewers. Regarding it playing adverts just after you paused the video, I've never heard of that happening and it's certainly not something I have control over I'm afaid. I think you may have just drawn an unlucky card with the RU-vid algorithm to have so many adverts played, but again, I am very sorry it was a jarring experience for you.
I’m one of the weirdos that can leave their glass on 24/7, and never open the door. I just keep the chamber below 40C, if it ever starts to creep towards there I just ramp the chamber fan.
Nope, chatGPT doesn't have an understanding of what a rocket looks like. It's a language model, not a general inteligence. It's picked up a pattern in langague use. It's spotted a pattern of setting variables in scrupts, so it's coppied that. It doesn't "understand" what a variable is, or how it functions. Computer code is a language, so it can produce something that convincingly follows the rules. That doesn't mean it actually works! Much like if you get it to write an essay. Surface level, it looks impressive. But if you actually know the subject, it kinda meaningless. You'd be better off seaching Stack Exchange. Which is pretty much what LLMs did when learning what code looks like. Generative AI is a useful tool, but it has to be used very carefully. It's not an information resorce, as much as Google & MS are trying to push it into one. It cannot fact check. Using generative AI incorrectly can be dangerous. Uh. despite my rambling, good video, & an interesting experement! :)
Haha I appreciate your rambling and your comment. I completely agree that it's not what LLMs are designed for or intended to do, but I thought it would be interesting to see how they'd perform.
@@3DRevolution scary! Really sorry to hear that… I once almost died in Ireland (that was once UK), so maybe that’s why I like your videos! 😅 (I don’t think so, I think it’s because you’re damn good at making videos!)
Well glad you survived Ireland too. Haha thanks, it was three years ago now, and I guess the silver lining is, if it hadn't have happened, I wouldn't be trying to make a real go of my channel right now, so swings and roundabouts. Haha thanks, it's all a process and my videos will only get better (...hopefully). I do have some big plans for the coming months.
So looking forward to it. I started 3d printing about a year ago and bought a couple of ender-3v3se printers and have learned a lot from these printer’s including with your tutorials on the prusaslicer. Now looking to print in color with AMS without doing manual filament swaps. Again, thanks for all your tips!
hello, nice videos! i am trying to download the laser test grids. but it keeps directing me to other websites. maybe because i live in the netherlands? is there another way to download?
Hey there, thanks. Ah sorry no, and it's not your fault. My site was hacked and I need to get it fixed, I'll try to get that done today or tomorrow. Maybe check back over the weekend? Sorry for the fustration.
Hey there, yeah with the Bambu design, you don't unload the filament from the nozzle itself. When you refit the nozzle with the old cold filament in, the next time you load a new filament it will just flush that filament out before printing.
I like your insights! Have you tried Rodin by this company called Deemos? I've checked their trial, and it looks like they do a better job than Meshy, in terms of style and quality. Would love to see a review video!