Question. But first, great video. You always produce fantastic content. After watching this video, it got me thinking. Have you ever seen a trim detail where the casings were meant to have these rolled miters? E.g., the window jambs are intentionally, say, 3/4" proud and you must use this technique because the designer/homeowner wanted the look that creates? It seems like if it were done tastefully it could look really good.
It's a shame that the generation from 1970-80 worker they were given the wisdom they were taught by old timer. But had stick in there butt to not going help you make you better fu . Your not taking my job or I just don't care. I was taught this by guy 5 yrs ago he was his 70s
I'm only a DIY'er but what a great video and just love the no nonsense presentation; no robot voices or stultifying "muzak". Simply brilliant and brilliantly simple. Great job. 10/10
I am embarassed to say how many years I have been a carpenter and never have I seen someone with such a simple, reliable solution to problem of wonky extension jambs. I enjoy your orderly approach to the work ith details like your cut list holder.
My older brother, who is a trim carpenter, showed me this concept years ago. One thing that is new to me is the drill bit trick. That is slick. Thanks for a great video. I have never subscribed to a RU-vid channel before. You are the first. I just looked at the website for the step gauge and the price is awful. The same thing can be done with a marked shim or tapered piece of 1x. Slide it next to the proud jamb, mark it with a pencil, and use that to set the saw. Way cheaper, especially if you don't do it all the time.
Spencer you are truly a wizard. I'm so impressed by your work ethic,problem solving skills and overall aptitude for this trade. You have made me want to be a better trim carpenter and I appreciate you so much.
Since we don't have apprentice programs in most places these videos go a long way to help the new guys learn the tricks of the trade. I think most folks can learn to do this and get good results BUT can they do it fast? That's where the experience comes in, thanks for sharing. I was doing it by bevel cutting the mitre on the flat ... too many sample cuts to figure out the correct angles and of course way too slow :). I don't know how long RU-vid lets these be viewed, but 10 years from now this will still be a good video for diy or inexperienced carpenter like me.@InsiderCarpentry
That’s very nicely explained, I’ve been doing carpentry for over 30 years and maybe It look stupid but never thought of this, never seen it before, best tip ever. Thanks. Really appreciate you making these videos and sharing this kind of tips, I have to say again that is BEST TIP EVER
Like an absolute mystic at 45 years of remodeling I guess I’ve been doing a lot of wiggling and padding out this technique is genius it’s so elementary duplicating the jamb situation at the saw thank you so very much for your knowledge and as always easy explanation of high quality content!
I owned a trim company and over the years trimmed out about 1500 houses. I never thought of this. I tried setting the chop saw at a slight angle but found it in accurate. We all had very sharp block planes and used them to touch up any joints that were not the best. You get pretty good at it after a while. Wish I would have thought about this back then. Nice work your doing on the channel
Man what a great video! Your examples and applications really make it easy to understand what's going on. I really appreciate all of your hard work. GREAT JOB!!
Awesome video!! A shim can do the same as the little step jig. Slide the shim along and put a pencil tick where it’s flush with the protruding jamb. At the chopsaw slide the shim in to the pencil mark under your piece of trim. Love your videos and knowledge man!
Could also just mark a shim at 1/16“ increments or to whatever accuracy is required. Could even have different shims with varying ramps to cover all ranges that might be encountered.
Thank you sooooo much for your videos. I am a trim apprentice with 6 months on the job. Was fighting a proud door jam today of about 3/16. Spent longer than I will admit publicly rigging the compound miter to get a good tight fit. Stopped watched this video and put your technique into action and it worked perfectly. Not to sound over dramatic, but this is life changing for me. Thank you again. …is there some way to support this channel above subscribing and liking? You should offer paid classes!
Most of us here had to learn these techniques the long hard way! He knows his stuff and you would be wise to learn everything you can from this channel. Use it as a guide and you will figure out how you like to do things your own way.
I was hired to help set some Marvin French doors. And if you would do a video on setting doors with 3 way adjustments it probably would have saved me 3 hours of labor. It took me 1 hour to set the first door and I would be lying if I said I didn’t want to throw my drill through the glass
@@joelw6215 French doors can definitely be a pain! Especially if you have a floor out of level or walls that don’t line up! I Always check the opening thoroughly before I attempt to set double doors
Hey Spenser, I am huge fan of your work. This is a super cool tip. So simple but brilliant. You explain things in a tutorial manner and I have learned a lot over the years. Keep up the great work and I always look forward to your next segment. Thanks for sharing! Peter
That’s a novel solution. However, instead of having a gap between the casing and the plasterboard, you’ll then create a gap between the casing and window frame because the casing will then be laying backwards. Ultimately, it’s all a compromise.
Thanks for the great tip. I am just a diyer who is about to replace all doors and trim work in my house. This will help so much as nothing in this house has been put together the way I would like. My hallway is 5ft at one end and 6ft at the other and it is only 12ft in length. Thanks again.
I've used drill bits and pencils to adjust the angles over the years....have also used a regular shim...most are 1/4"....slide the shim next to the casing and mark where it's flush..... simple...and you always have shims around
I’ve never used this technique but instantly thought to just use a shim. If a normal shim isn’t big enough well there’s bigger problems you need to take care before casing
We used to back plane the jamb leaving and 1/8 flat, most sheetrock was 3/8 and a jamb of 4-9/16, this way has made life easier, I like the step gauge, time to order one.
I think you made a separate video a few years back showing this technique and I instantly subscribed! This is a great trick to add to your bag of tricks 🔥
If only the the window installers had a piece of drywall (gyprock here in Australia) with them to flush the jamb up to the face of the studs where the drywall would finish. Always a case of the "next trade will fix it" Here in Australia many of the framers will come back to do the "fix out" with casings (architraves in Au) Sadly that doesn't always happen if you're doing reno's
Great tips. Been in the business a long time and learned a few tips with this video - thanks. As with most things, there is always something one can learn from other pros.
Great Tricks! I can't believe I didn't think of this before. Recently completed the rebuild/renovation of a residence built back in the 50's. I sure could have used these tricks to trim out the windows & case-out the doors.
I'm not even gonna read a single comment. I already know what they say. This is just plain carpentry gold here. I feel the same about looking back at how I fought these joints. Thanks so much for this!
What an amazingly simple idea. The only thing wrong, that I can see, is that I didn't think of it. Thanks you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
This carpenter is spot on. I’ve framed 1000 homes and trim them as well as a carpenter contractor. When the window jamb is protruding past the drywall we sometimes power planed the jamb flush. I learned the method of tipping the trim piece exactly the way it would sit on the wall. Thicker casing is harder to do if you don’t tip while cutting. The problem with today’s windows is the jamb is not as wide as the wall due to the added weather proof tape and Tavel paper. Also when the windows are installed they have tendency to compress against the sheathing plus or minus. His method works . I did it with the miller falls manual miter box back in the day 1970s. When the jamb is not out far enough you either beat the heck out of the drywall or add jamb extensions
This is going to be a big help on a remodel we're about to trim out. Great info as always from you Spencer. I'd love to come spend a week or two with you just learning.
I do something similar by cutting each one a bit long and either reducing or increasing the miter. But, I will try your approach - it looks a little easier. The drill bit is also clever.
Amazing as always! I would have never thought about this. I probably would have used a router to make it flush to the wall 🤦🏽♂️ your technique seems easier and simpler with less mess
Great video as always, Spencer. The fact that you share your skills with others helps both, them and you, become better people. Now, let's talk about your on-site trim rack! It a different design than what you used previously....and of course, which I built for myself. This new one looks more compact. Thanks.
I’m just a DIY’er here and I have some hack work that happened because of me not having this information…As a mechanic, I understand nothing beats experience and a trained professional and I understand why it cost a pretty penny to have good work done at your home… Thank you sooooooo much for this video….🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾…I really can’t explain how valuable this video is to humanity….LITERALLY…
This is why I much prefer to make my own liners. Life is simpler, and the finished product looks better when everything is flush and flat. Plus, if it's paint grade anyways, (and jamb is proud of drywall) I would shim behind the miter and caulk to the wall. Especially in tight spots where you're never going to see the sides.
Wholly crap! So simple yet brilliant. I enjoy all of your videos Spencer but this one had me swearing out loud ( in a good way). The drill bit tip, man, we’ve all got them with us and totally missed using. Great video
Huge important video right here .... you do a superb job on these and hope more people see this .... this video shows the BEST tip. Bravo. Hope you had a delightful long Holiday Weekend. Thanks Spencer
Dude. You are the man. Seriously…where has this channel been all my life?? You are incredibly wise and equally kind for sharing all of these tricks. Thank you, Spencer!
If it’s a 3/16” or less, I usually just shim the casing. If it’s more, I’ll rip furring strips pr plane the jamb down. Seems like a thick bead of caulk on the outside of the casing is better than a bead on the more visible inside. Am I just doing it wrong?
Purchased - Uprimu Set Up Block Height Gauges Set,5 Piece Precision Aluminum Setup Bars for Router and Table Saw Accessories Woodworking Set Up, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 Inches, All 4 Inches Long for 13.99. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Brilliant !!!
Another valuable tip ! Thank you so much for sharing . I learn so much or your videos, it's small tips and tricks that make the job. These are so useful in all types of woodworking.
Neat trick however when I was trimming new construction and cased windows with proud jambs I just left the gap on the wall. It’s usually getting caulked and painted or I’d add a filler on the sides if really bad. However if the jambs are short I’d add a consistent size jamb extension and proceed. You would have to remove Sheetrock to make your casing work with your method if the jamb is short right, unless your casing had a hollow back 🤷♂️. Still I really appreciate learning this simple trick in the first instance. In a perfect world I would insist on doing a perfect job as a perfectionist and do so in woodworking however the new construction trimming houses is a bit different depending like you said on the contractor and framer and don’t forget the drywall guys. I’m rambling so I will thank you again because I really did gain knowledge today. Can’t wait to see some of your crown videos and the tricky spots with uneven ceilings and the like. I still cope all inside miters so as to eliminate problems there but outside corners sometimes are a bear !!! 👍btw. Beating in the drywall around the jambs often did the trick 😂
Another thing you can do if the drywall is proud is what i do in most cases. Smash the drywall behind where the casing goes on the wall. Slightly mark where the outside of the casing goes so you know where to stop smashing. Lol. Works like a charm :)
This is an absolutely phenomenal video and you are an excellent teacher! I learned so much extremely valuable information and you explained everything so well! Im so grateful to have found your channel and content! Im feeling a bit more confident to cut and install all my crown molding and window trim and floor trim I am attempting to put in myself. Thank you so very much!!! 🎉 Yes,n this is absolutely essential information!
This knowledge you share with us is puré gold...never heard about this technique,thanks a lot,i apreciate the time and efford you put un your videos, thanks from Spain
Wow, this is great information for a Diy as myself. I'm always looking to learn, and this is a great teaching video. Thanks, and keep up all the videos.
