Getting started with the Chinese made 6090GZ CNC Router 

Glad you like them!

Yes, you can cut 1-2mm thick aluminum on this unit. You will need to watch your feeds and speeds for the material you are looking to cut. But yes you can cut it. One thing to note... This machine is made of aluminum. So there is flex in the gantry and Z axis.

Thank you for your comment... but, I disagree. The VFD, within the control box, will ramp up the speed on its own. And every 3-5 minutes will make it take a long time to get up to speed. However, 3000RPM, as per the specs on the spindle/VFD, will cause issues of its own. The minimum speed, for the 2.2KW spindle, is 10000RPM (as per the vendor). At 3000RPM, due to how a VFD works, could cause the VFD to overheat. That's my $0.02.

@@jeffmorlen Well, the Chinese vendor of the spindle told me about this. It depends on the lubrication they implemented for the bearing. I think most Chinese spindles are the same type.

Who is the vendor of the Chinese spindle? Mine is not marked in a manner to determine who the made it... so, could be the same or it could be different. If you have information, and care to share, let me know and I'll host it for everyone. Thanks!

Thanks Jim! Is there anything you want me to tackle?? I'm working on the 4th axis stuff now.

Hi Jeff i have brought this same machine and having a hard time getting it to run with the software, i got the machine running manually, unable to get those download they send to work is it possible to give some guidance please,

Glad you enjoyed it!

Oh no!! You didn't have any sound?? I'm sorry, the video (I just re-checked it) does have audio. Maybe try a different browser?! :(

For $1300 the machine is worth it. If you need any help, please let me know.

I will!! I'm excited to share what I've learned and hoping that I can answer some questions for others.

@@jeffmorlen can you use a mac book to run this?

@@zachofalltrades6116 The easy answer is no. This is due to the software you get being a Windows based software package (Mach3). The hard answer is yes. There are two paths you could take with this... 1) You could run Parallels/VirtualBox/VMWare Fusion on your Mac and pass the USB port through to a Windows virtual machine, running Mach3... but I don't know what type of performance you would get. 2) You could strip the RnR Controller out of the VFD housing and replace it with a GRBL based controller. This would give you the ability to run a GRBL sender in place of Mach3. I'm not sure if either of these options would be worth the time it would take to setup. You could simply use your Mac for design and then get a cheap-o Windows laptop to run the machine?! Just a thought.

@@jeffmorlen thanks for the answer I do have a older laptop I could use

Share a picture of the bench when you are done. Mine is just sitting on an old, and very heavy, commercial desk. :)

Shane- I'm glad you like the video. It was my first try at something like this. If you have any questions, as you progress with your 6090, let me know. I'd be happy to help.

That is AWESOME!! You were able to take an "ok" Chinese machine and make it into what you needed... that's cool. I have hopes of upgrading the steppers, bed, drivers, and add homing switches... but that's down the road. Do you have a RU-vid channel or video of your machine? I'd love to see it!

Hi Jeff, Unfortunately I do not. Thinking about it. But I follow everything. I learned a lot from others. Quite a learning curve.. Hours and hours of good ideas. For you connect the extruded al plates e.g. on the bottom with strips for easy stiffness and if Al then use a corner of the machine. Most flexing is in the middle. Z-axis fix the gap. It damages your bits. You can find a video of another owner which uses a cheap bearing for that. And a surfaced offer plate. Maybe 100 euro but it improves a lot. That's what I did in the beginning. Have fun.

YES!! I have gotten the same error. The error indicates that the VFD has overheated. It is a real pain in the... you know where. I have found a couple people say that they added fans to the control box to keep it cool. I have also found a guy who said that he reversed the fan direction and that helped. I have gotten it 5-10 times and it is always in the middle of final pass cut (when doing 3D stuff). Mach3 will give you the ability to start at a line number and that is how I handled it (without modification) in the past. Meaning, if you get the 0h error, stop the machine. Document the line number it says it was on and step backwards until it picks up where it left off. By "step backwards" I mean... If it errors at line 1800... go back to 1750. If that isn't back far enough, then go back to 1700. I've had luck with this... but, be warned, it is NOT a perfect fix for it. I hope this helps. Maybe I'll tear my down in a video and show everyone what is really inside... with explanations.

I have heard of issues, just like yours, from some owners of the Chinese 6090GZ CNC machines. It seems that some vendors DO NOT connect the motion controller to the VFD and require you to control it manually. However, there are a couple things we can do to check this out... Can you get the spindle to spin using the control panel on the control box? Here is a link to a PDF that I made about testing your spindle. 1drv.ms/b/s!AgxiwVost-OPi4ES7Ug-cm8Gwsr11Q?e=HW9JYY Try this and let me know.

You're welcome

There isn't a driver, for Windows, really. The DLL that you need, for the R&R Motion Controller, is dropped into the plugins directory within Mach3. As far as settings that need to be changed in Mach3... Yes, TONS. But they should be within the XML file you can get from the mfg. or seller. If you don't have one, I have an XML file for download (check the channel page).

I'm happy to help you. Please look at my page details for an email address you can use to contact me. From there we can setup some time via Zoom/Teams/other for me to give you a hand.

I think that that statement was made based off the documentation on Amazon regarding the machine. My machine has no limit switches on the Z Axis either. As far as homing switches, there aren't any. But you could use limit switches on X and Y to do homing. You'd just need to write the script to do that.

So, there are some things to keep in mind when answering your question. The working size of the machine is approximately 850mm by 600mm. The size of a Stratocaster is, about, 307mm by 446mm. The size of a Telecaster is, about, 324mm by 406mm. The size of a Gibson Les Paul is, about, 330mm by 440mm. You can see that this is able to machine the body... being 45mm to 50mm thick. The neck is the hard part. The neck is, about, 637mm to 653mm long. Most have a 14 degree dip at the head. So, if I were going to make one on this machine... here's how I would do it. I'd use a fixture to hold the body for the A and B sides of the body. I'd use reference pins to align it all. I'd make a jig to hold the neck and only use the machine to cut the rough shape of the neck and head. After that... it's all blood, sweat and tears! I wanna do this too (as I sit here next to my four guitars)!! Good luck!

For the work that I do, it is perfect. It hit the price point that I needed, the features that I needed, and the size that I was looking for. For the Z axis only moving down... does it make noise and try to move up? If not, you may have some other parameter in Mach3 backwards... but I wouldn't be able to tell you what without looking at your setup (sorry).

First things first…. Do you have the same machine? Or, at a minimum, something similar. Does your CNC have a manual/pc selector switch? Switch that to manual. Make sure the knob is all the way to off, or the slowest setting. Press the green “run” button on the VFD. Turn the knob and increase the frequency. If it spins, then the VFD is working. Turn the knob and stop the spindle. Press the stop button in the VFD. Change the switch back to PC control. Press the green run button again. Within Mach3, if configured, you should be able to hit the “Spindle CW” button within the GUI to start the spindle. Hit it again to stop the spindle. ** Note: please make sure you have no loose parts, material, clothing, or body parts near the spindle during this operation. **

David- You will need to contact the seller about what settings your VFD needs. I have a document that outlines all the settings that can be set on it. Keep in mind that this is for MY VFD and it may not be the same as yours. You can find it here: ( 1drv.ms/b/s!AgxiwVost-OPi4EGSgTsIGiy0xF8RQ?e=g1ym85 ) As far as pin configuration, my CNC has an USB RnR Motion stepper controller. I'm not sure what yours has. Where did you buy it? What does it look like? Is it a parallel port version (old) or a USB version (new)? Did yours come with a CD? It may have all your settings and configuration information on it. I can say this... Before you make any changes to your VFD, try to run it manually. If your CNC is the same as mine, you should be able to power on the system, turn the PC/Manual switch to manual, press RUN, and then turn the knob to start the spindle. If you have a link to what you bought, I will take a look and give you my thoughts.

Is yours USB or Parallel? Did it come with a CD or USB stick? If you have a link to where you purchased it, I can take a look. Some of these are now using GRBL controllers vs. RnR Motion controllers... so, there may be clues in the product description.

One thing about some of those cards... The CNC breakout boards you find with a USB and an LTP (Parallel) port on them usually only use the USB for power. They still require a parallel port connection to move the machine. I've seen several with both ports too and, personally, don't care for them. They always seem to be very low quality. My CNC breakout board is, probably, a knock off of the R&R Motion controller board. This board uses USB only and does not require a parallel port to run. You do need to install a DLL into your Mach3 folder for it to work, but I've had very few problems with mine. Feel free to ask me questions... I've been in the CNC space for 10+ years now (personally) and another 10+ doing software setups and first run stuff, professionally, before that. ** I don't do this for my work any longer. It is now just a hobby.

The real working area is, about, 850mm x 580mm (if memory serves me right).

Actually... this unit uses fully supported on the Y axis and unsupported on the X axis. The stepper motors, I believe, are 2Nm or less... which is a little under powered for this unit. I will be changing them in the future. I use DM542 drivers on my other CNC machines, but I have not opened this box in a bit... and don't recall what is in there.

Not sure how you are going to mount the laser to that (4060Z) machine. You will need to find a way to trigger the laser to turn it on/off... which is not a function that this/these CNC machines have. So, I'm sure that will be a challenge. If you don't need the larger format... I'd almost recommend a K40 laser instead.

My Y axis moves pretty easy without the power on. I would think that something is aligned incorrectly or there is something in the way. Alternatively, the linear rails may not be parallel and that could also cause a binding scenario. You can take the gantry off and still run the machine. I would probably take that off and then remove the bed of the unit. That way you can see what is happening when you try to move it. Sorry your unit is not working properly. If you cannot get it fixed easily, I would contact the seller and let them know of your issue. They may have some more insight as to what could be causing the issue.

@@jeffmorlen thank you so much for the reply Jeff, I actually found the issue, the y axis motor was damaged in transport, removing the motor allowed me to move the axis freely. I'm in contact with my seller to get a replacement. thanks again for your detailed response and troubleshooting support :)

You should be able to take the XML file from my download (link in another comment) and use it to configure your machine. It should have all the settings for Mach3 in it.

Thank you for your help, much appreciated.

I'm not sure what the difference would be. I've searched for the 6090Z and could not find anything significant. Most of the differences that I noticed were things like limit switch placement and the advertisement of the unit as being made of "steel". Mine, I believe, at the time of the purchase, said it was made of steel too... but most of the larger parts are aluminum with steel screws and covers. Of course the linear rails are polished steel as well. I hope that helps. Sorry I don't have more information on the differences.

Sorry for the delay. Yes, the documentation, for Mach3 and Mach4 does indicate that you should not use a laptop. So there is that... but... you can if you use USB (it seems to me) to communicate with your stepper driver controller board... like the RnR Motion in the 6090. So, to be "safe" I would say that you should not run Mach3 or Mach4 on a laptop to control your router. But, just like everything else, your experience may vary from what is recommended vs. what works for you. Personally, I'd be worried about the laptop stopping the job part way through or something. If you watch a lot of CNC videos on RU-vid... a lot of people run Mach3 on a laptop... but, like I said, your experience may be different. Hope that helps... even though it is sorta a non-answer answer.

That is a great question. I would say that, due to the construction, it CAN be used to mill soft metals. You can find some people using the 3060 for metal on RU-vid. For me, this will be just a CNC Router. But... it's a great question so let's address some things. Things that I have found that do not lend it to milling are: - The VFD does not allow the spindle to go slow enough, at a high torque level, to mill. The VFD and spindle should not be run below 10000RPM. I have found that the VFD overheats if you push it at a low RPM. - The gantry does have flex in it. But, even when working on a Bridgeport knee mill (manual) you will have flex (usually in the head). But the amount is the issue. The flex of the gantry causes some issues under load and your accuracy will suffer. You will have severe drift in your tooling if you don't have the right feeds/speeds. - Lack of cooling (by default) make is ill suited to milling. You can/could add a surround and then add liquid cooling for the tool, but, by default, it isn't setup for it. I hope this helps!! I have not had a chance to get back in the shop lately... but I hope to have some other videos coming out soon!

@@jeffmorlen I appreciate the prompt and engaging response. Thoughtful of you. As I would like to try my hand at injection molds using aluminum medium, tool tolerances are of grave consideration. - In regards to the VFD overheating when run below 10000RPM, is it that the internal fan (of the VDF) is not adequate to cool the electrical components or is this behavior indicative of VDF's that are not mill? - The flex that you mention...the following is a thread/post on how one guy (don't know his name) overcame the issue. I believe his unit to be identical to yours, with modifications to the bed. Although your device is purposed solely for routing perhaps it will be of some value to your other subscribers. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ybvUcnKno-E.html - I would be game to adding a cooling and reclamation...if possible. Jeff you have been INCREDIBLY helpful. The time and detail you take creating these videos is appreciated...big time. Looking forward to more of your vids coming down the pike!!

I think the best answer is "maybe". I only say that because it will be all about the speeds and feeds... and a GREAT quality mill to go in it. I think there is a video out there that does have someone doing some engraving in a 1911 with, I think, a 3040CNC (the same but smaller). Sorry I can't be more help... :(

An applitec E330-P-0.05-TiALN (not sure if it was TiALN) engraving endmill going 50mm/min at 8100rpm took about 800w with peaks of 1400w in a vf2 At those speeds and multiple depth passes, it probably can

I like to think of myself as a pretty handy guy. So, the manual thing didn't bother me too much. You just need to know that things really only plug in one place. And the screw holes, on mine, lined up, almost, perfect (except on the bent part). As far as doing a 100mm diameter cylinder on there... I guess I would wonder what you'd be CNCing into it. Are you planning on using the 4th axis (sorta a stupid question, but want to make sure)? If you get one and run into issues... shoot me a msg. I'd be happy to help. (I'm getting ready to record the Mach3 installation and configuration... as per their instructions... we'll see how this goes. :) )

​@@jeffmorlen do you have a email we can communicate with you I have just purchased the same cnc machine and am watching your video on set up and I do have more questions appreciate you and thanks

@@andregunther4200 My address is in the channel's about page.

I have a whole video on the dust shoe that I adapted for this machine.

You should start with the seller, the manufacturer is, from what I found, difficult to get a response from. But, the machine is a culmination of readily accessible parts. There really isn't anything "special" about the machine unless you need to replace aluminum parts/plates. Is there a part you need?

Mi enrutador funcionó bien, para mí. Lo uso para hacer letreros y piezas 2D (principalmente). Pero, por el costo, creo que es una buena inversión.

Unfortunately I cannot just paste an image here. However, I saved one for you in my Google drive. 1drv.ms/b/s!AgxiwVost-OPi4EGSgTsIGiy0xF8RQ?e=g1ym85

The vertical axis (the Z axis) can be controlled, in Mach3, with the Page UP and Page DOWN keys on the keyboard. If connected properly, and the software is working, this should show you movement of your Z axis. (You do need to click on the RESET button within Mach3 before movement can be done)

@@jeffmorlen Thanks a Lot, your video is AMAZING

Thank you Victor. Let me know if there is something you need/want me to cover in a video or "quick clip".

It's different for everyone. I know that before I had this CNC machine I had a smaller one that didn't come with limit switches. I did add them, in the long run, but after 8 years of using it without. It mostly comes down to knowing your machine and knowing that the project will fit in the space you have defined. If you are going to push the limits, as in the size, of the machine... you will probably benefit from limit switches. If everything you are planning on doing (in the near future) is quite a bit smaller than the machines size, you probably won't benefit from having them. I hope that this makes sense. Let me know if you have any more questions.

@@jeffmorlen Thanks man. I think I'm just so used to having limit switches on my laser because it homes itself every time on startup and if those limit switches weren't there then it would just repeatedly crash itself into the side. I guess I can get used to not having them on the router, with a different mind set. It's odd that you can't even find a 6040 with limit switches (and no ports for them on the back of the VFD box).

I removed them from my proverxl 4030, after you have practiced you can do without them

I have links to the software bundle in my channel description and on many of the videos. They are links to my OneDrive account. ** NOTE: I did not include any licensing with these files. You will need to provide your own Mach3 license if you choose to use Mach3.

Okay... X-Y-Z are the three planes that you work in. A-B-C are usually the auxiliary planes you can use. "A" usually being considered the rotary axis. Using the hold downs is hard to explain. Think of putting the bold head in the track (table) and then using the other bolt to set the height and the wing nut to tighten it all down... if that makes sense. I don't have a video on using the rotary axis yet... but am working on it.

@@jeffmorlen Have you tried GSender? I have had no luck. Maybe they are different protocols.

GSender is most likely used with an Arduino based controllers and not with the R&R Motion controller. But, I have not tried it.

Davy- Unfortunately, the distance between the aluminum bed and the bottom of the gantry is only, 4 9/16". I have a pic that shows this if you need confirmation. Sorry.

Depending on what I'm doing it would be a mix of Google Sketchup (with tons of plug-ins; old version) or Vectric V-Carve (old version). Most of what I do would be considered 2.5D work (meaning Z axis does not really move while doing a cut... just goes to a depth and cuts there).

Yes, I do like it. So far I've cut standard plywood, MDF, poplar, aspen, pine, walnut, ash and oak. It does well in each... but you will want to spend some money on good bits. One thing to look at is the math on the wattage of the spindle... they claim 2.2kw... but the math doesn't add up to that amount of power. Another is, that when digging into these CNC machines, you need to look at things like "how fast are the rapids?" I bring this point up because, on this model, without any changes to drivers or steppers, I'm limited to, about, 1500mm/min. Anything more than that and you start to run into stepper stutter and you start to loose steps... so, an upgrade is in order... but I'm not sure if that's the stepper driver or the steppers themselves (yet). So the real question is... "Is this CNC machine worth the $2000-ish you pay for it?" I would say that it is. It is much better than what I had before (Probotix Fireball V90).

Yes... forgot to mention, this is the 6090 model. Specifically the 6090GZ from CNCEST.

Lol I’ve read through comments and see this has kind of been addressed. Sorry to beat the horse but it’s getting confusing trying to navigate through all the different listings.

@@HammargrenCues No worries. I have the files that I got on my Google Drive (there is a link in this thread somewhere). Here is the exact unit that I bought: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NSXSYFJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is listed as a "DNYSYSJ 6090 4 Axis CNC Router" but the one that I got was labelled from CNCEST. Things to look for before purchasing... 1) USB connectivity: This can be confusing because of a flood of USB boards now and some are Arduino based vs RnR Motion controllers. 2) MACH3 compatibility: This is the software that actually drives the machine after you generate G-Code. This does not work with Arduino based machines, only RnR Motion based machines. And... remember... you can ask the seller questions. I did, extensively, before I spent my money on this. The description of mine has a little bit of contradictory information in it and I needed some clarification.

im in the nightmare is there any help out there

To be honest... the system does not come with a USB stick or CD/DVD or anything. I needed to contact the seller to get the software that works with it. That ZIP file (you can find attached to my channel) contains the RnR Motion Controller driver, Mach3, and some PDF files. If the version of this unit you buy has something other than the RnR Motion Controller board, then you'd need to use what you can get from the vendor. Please note: My machine will not work with any type of Arduino CNC controller board software, LinuxCNC, Mach4, or other 3rd party software. My unit will only work with Mach3.

My cost, through Amazon, was $2550 (I believe). You can still get a unit like this for, about, $1900.

I'm not there yet... but, as soon as I head down that path... I'll be recording it. My 4th axis (A) hasn't even made it out of the box yet. :(

I am hoping to venture down this path this winter (and it is snowing today... so, maybe sooner than later).

@@jeffmorlen thx man lol appreciate it

The VFD settings can be found in the PDF that is now attached to the video description. The PDF is the "VFD settings document (from the 3040 manual)". I hope this helps.

Look at page 21 for the recommended settings from the 3040 manual. You will need to read the manual to figure out how to change these though. Sorry!

Also look at this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tRf4VpMzthc.html

I would ask the seller for any documentation that they have about the machine. Specifically, about Mach3. This will give you some very strong clues as to what you can run. I've seen a couple of systems being sold that use an Arduino vs. the RnR Motion control board. That makes life difficult as you cannot even run Mach3... you need to run an open source version of some control software. So, if you can get some information from them, then that will give you some clues.

Oh... and I run Windows 10 + Mach3 on the control PC.

If you have the RnR Motion board in your control box, you may see a light on that board (or emanating from the back of your control box). This board CAN be powered by your PC and does not need an external power supply to be seen or work. I would check the "Device Manager" to see if it shows up or if it is showing an extra piece of hardware being detected.

@@jeffmorlen they sent me the box but they haven’t sent me all the files I need/ would it be possible to get a copy? Also I’m new to this so would I be able to pay you if you have time to help me set it up correctly?

Others have had the same issue. Here is a link to the files (minus the license file for Mach3): 1drv.ms/u/s!AgxiwVost-OPi4EFwXbQM1FP9K8deg?e=HRAAtd

Thank you! I’ll give it a go. Also if you have the time I’d like to pay you to help me go over the initial set up. If you’re busy no worries. Thank you for the content.

@@Justsayin71 I'm happy to help... but without being on-site for a setup, config, testing, and run through... I'm not sure how much help I can be. If you have questions, please feel free to ask.

Does your installation of Mach3 see the RnR Motion controller? Let me know.

@@jeffmorlen yes because it can operate some of the functions

Q: When you use the arrows (up/down/left/right) to move the gantry do the numbers in Mach3 move as if it thinks it is working? If not, is the RESET button (red at bottom left) flashing/blinking? If it is, click on it to set your machine to "enabled" and to clear the emergency stop situation. *** NOTE: When you start Mach3, this is always flashing/blinking. This is a done for safety (i.e., so the machine doesn't just take off and do stuff).

@@jeffmorlen hey bud sorry for the late response had some issues I'm looking to tag you in a video I made so you can have a better idea of my issue thanks.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YyhJYwSg_Rs.html hey this is the video I uploaded trying to explain my issue please check it out and help me thanks very much

The only "better" thing about the 6090 vs the 6040 is the size... when talking about the CNC machines from CNCEST. The machine work area is larger on the 6090. Also, not knowing what 6040 you are looking at, there may be more spindle options on the 6090 vs the 6040 as well. Otherwise, they are, usually, a similar machine.

@jeffmorlen if you make a tutorial on hoe to extend bed to say cut or taper something up to 32 inches between centers that be awesome!

Getting my 4th axis up and running is on my list. But, I'm in Wisconsin (USA)... so we take advantage of any good weather we get (usually 2-3 months of the year... haha)... and I've been spending a lot of time working on engines this summer. I'm hoping to have a quick "Let's get you up and running with your 4th axis" video in a month or two (which may be longer... and I may have started that project more than once already... eek). But, the information that I'll try to convey will be relatable in many ways. For a taper, like on a pool cue, I can think of some ways to do this in software and a couple ways with just a simple mounting plate/jig. It doesn't have to be complicated to work... right? I'll keep you posted. Thank you for the comments. If you need direct help, please send me an email.

Oh btw I have Gcodes ,I also had a 10k cnc just fr cues but it got sold and now I'm into buying a 1600 cnc ,so I figuere just load gcodes and send it

As long as the G-Codes are generic, it should be fine. But, something to keep in mind is that this CNC runs using Mach3, from machsupport.com. This is an older package (as of the time of this comment, they are no longer developing Mach3 and focusing on Mach4) and you get a questionable license with most CNC machines out of C#!n@.

It's addictive!! But, if you need help finding one, let me know. I'm happy to help.

@@jeffmorlen is the Machine well built and worth getting I have my eye on this one but was a little lire of machine from China an lack of support

That's a great question!! From what I found (very quickly) the RnR Motion board, which is what is inside my machine, DOES NOT work with Mach4. You may find a bunch of download sites that tag MACH4 and RNRMOTION, but I have not seen an article or a post on CNC Zone that references this combination working. Of course, if I'm wrong, please post a comment with a link. I'm sure others would be interested too.

Yeah… sorry about that. I was using my phone at the time. I’m trying to get better.

Ron- I don't have the specs for them... but they seem to be pretty light weight. Like, maybe, 280oz/in motors. Many people have replaced their "stock" motors with larger, stronger ones. The benefit is that you will get better speed and better holding strength. So, with that said, I'd say that you can just source a motor from Amazon (or similar). The connectors are industry standard and you can find them on Amazon too (I used to have a link to a bulk pack but cannot find it). I hope that helps.

I believe the connectors they use are "Micro-Fit 3.0mm" male and female. You can find them on AliExpress or Amazon.

Might be these... smile.amazon.com/Molex-Micro-Fit-Receptacle-Terminal-sockets/dp/B07H6ZXPNM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2M9AIQUMRETGR&keywords=micro-fit+3.0mm+single+row&qid=1663597391&s=industrial&sprefix=micro-fit+3.0mm+single+row%2Cindustrial%2C95&sr=1-1

One group said they were JST SM connectors. Here is a link. www.amazon.com/4-Pin-Brass-Terminal-Connector-Female/dp/B01LYYGGED/ref=asc_df_B01LYYGGED/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226601492573&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15714838303230970531&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018821&hvtargid=pla-378969788043&psc=1

@@jeffmorlen normal nema 23 3-4A 3Nm motor i see have. what longed motor body have then strong have torque, important not small motor because no torque lose step easy and not can move all axis.

If you wanted to... you could build a 6090 with the motors, controller, VFD, and screws that you desire. The option, on Amazon, is just a quick way to get into this type of machine without having to source all the parts.

I don't sell these units. I purchased mine from Amazon.com. You would have to locate a vendor in your region or from someplace like Amazon.com or AliExpress.com. Sorry.

Does Mach3 see an RnRMotion control card? Do you have the DLL for the RnRMotion controller card in the plugins folder for Mach3?

I did not have to do anything special to get this to work on Windows 10. My CNC (as many are) is using a 3rd party DLL to control the machine. The DLL is from rMotion and uses a USB port vs a parallel/printer port. So, with that said... If you buy the version with the USB port, you can use Windows 10. If you buy the version with the parallel port, you will need Windows 7. Does that make sense?

@@jeffmorlen Hey thanks for the reply. Yes i guess that makes sense. Just don't want to end up with a machine i need an old laptop for. I asked because even the link you posted to the actual purchase you made says only works with windows 7,xp, etc. I wonder how i can be sure i get the same dll/control board you received. I see this same machine for as low as 1900 but something is kind of weird about that. You would think that since most people don't want to have a parallel port old computer that they would make it clear that it will actually work with windows 10 just to get a sale at least. But every listing including your link basically says it won't..

@@jeffmorlen also i wondering where you even saw details on the r&r motion control coming with the machine before purchasing like you said in video. i don't see anything about that on amazon details. thanks

Shawn- If you like, I can go over the stuff in a video for you. The details of some of those postings can be very confusing... especially when the seller just does a copy/paste of some other post. I was also going to go over the installation and setup of Mach3 for use with this machine in a video (but have been very busy). Let me know.

Is this a brand new unit? If so, I'd contact the mfg or seller to work out a replacement spindle or VFD. If not, when did it work last? Do you us it "manually" via the VFD or is it controlled by Mach3?

@@jeffmorlen I finally got it to work after they sent me the setup instructions.

@@jeffmorlen Great packaging huh, mine came damaged the first time.

What did they tell you about the spindle noise? Mine has the same noise.

I told them it sounded like a bearing and they sent me a new spindle. With that said, at higher RPM I didn’t have the noise, only in the mid-range.

Yes, you can mill non-ferrous metals with it. It is rigid enough for aluminum, however, it is also made of mostly aluminum... so you will get some flex if you push it too hard. There are a couple of videos where guys are using 6040s to do aluminum... which may give you better luck due to the smaller size. Otherwise you could always retrofit a Sieg X2 or something for metal as well.

It is meglii a 6040 for aluminum. Do you think so

@@domenicocoluccelli5734 Huh? "meglii"?

Sorry. "it is better 6040 for alluminium

@@domenicocoluccelli5734 The only reason that a 6040 may be better for aluminum is because it is smaller with the same spindle/VFD. Meaning, there isn't as much a span in the gantry and thus less flex/deflection. That's the one thing that you will see over and over from 6090 folks... flex in the gantry assembly.

Mach3 vs. Linux CNC is a discussion I'm willing to have. I've used both, extensively, but feel that Mach3 is easier to customize and works with a wider array of hardware. That's why I use it vs. Linux CNC at this time.

I'd be interested to find out why you didn't like your 6090 CNC router. It has many benefits over a Shapeoko, price being the main one ($2000 vs. $4200). Of course, I'd be happy to take your 6090 off your hands... :)