I kind of miss my old analog micron gauge that took five minutes to warm up in five more minutes to calibrate. It took 8D size batteries that only lasted a couple hours and would go out of calibration if the ambient temperature changed. Nostalgia they just don’t make them like they used to. Lol
Jim, Many thanks for an excellent intro to TruBlu. As much as I love the guys at TruTech Tools, their web catalog... well, lets just say it can use some details. I like to have my new tools checked, verified, and feel comfortably familiar with them before I take them to a customers home. When I first went to the Testo Smart Probes, it was a learning curve filled with surprises. The kind that cost me more than a little lost time. Between tablet/phone interface troubles, trips back to the local supply for some adapter or another (they just don't bend like a hose, do they), and more than a few false starts (when I plain gave up on the Smart Probes and broke out the 550)... lets just say a thorough explanation (like this video) gives me a lot more confidence in new equipment and procedures. Keep up the great work!
LEO ASHRAE Hi Leo, thanks for the feedback! We need this type of feedback in order to better our website. Would you mind sending me an email at marketing@trutechtools.com to discuss further?
Not sure why you seem to fluff off or call the Hilmor pump cheap, but I've had yellow jacket, JB, and few other pumps, and that Hilmor is the best I've had so far. I'd take that over the field piece any day. The Hilmor is less cfm then my yellow jacket one but every time that hilmor is quicker.
Not knocking it. It is a no frills pump at a good price. That is why I used it for the demo. If you want a more expensive pump you are buying it for features. The core technology is pretty much the same. It's not as much about the pump as it is connecting it to good hoses. I like some of the others because they are cordless, or the integrated manifold, or the quick oil change. or the ability to vent it outside.
vetta17 our Hilmor 9cfm bit the dust after one year of use. Not that it makes it a bad brand, but I’ve never seen that happen with any pump I’ve used in my career. Even teeny little cheapo RobinAir 3 CFM ones that have been chooching for years.
Hey Jim, can we get a video detailing a little more on the gas ballast? Two things in particular I wonder is how far out do I unscrew the knob, or what kind of difference are we talking about in dry environments like AZ vs other areas? Thanks.
Honestly if you use nitrogen in a system and you are in Tampa Florida or you are in Las Vegas Nevada and are using a vacuum pump with a ballast On a system that it is similar in length. I say no much difference probably 5 minutes apart. Because of the altitude and not much of humidity. 🧐 I think 🤔🍺🍺🍺🍺. But what about in the Arctic where the temperature are low 😆. Wait a minute they probably need a heater and not a heat pump 🥃😬🤣🤣🤣🤣
Too much ballast would prevent you from reaching ultimate pressure, so if not reaching ultimate vacuum pressure, try reducing ballast flow. Ballast helps purge moisture, flushing it through the stages of pump with the dry nitrogen. This will keep your oil drier, longer. Backfilling the system with dry gas and/or purging dry gas through, helps move the moisture like a sponge sops up water but on a microscopic level.
Can you please do one on a mini split. That’s what I work on the most and have just got my TruBlu kit and had a hard time getting things set up correctly.
On a mini split with a single port, you have to connect the core tool to the side port. you may also need a 5/16" core tool depending on the brand. If the space is limited and you cannot get the core tool in, a core depressor. I will see what I can do. I do not have the opportunity to work on a lot of them. www.trutechtools.com/Accutools-S10767-Shrader-Depressor-Tool-1-4x1-4
So I bought that from TruTech when I bought the kit. When the screw is turned to open it seems closed. Do I pull a vacuum with it OPEN which is screwed all the way down?
He is going through a racquetball addiction at the moment. He bits it so hard that it shots from his mouth. He chases it until he falls over exhausted. Rough life for sure.
Can this system be used on refrigerator sealed systems or would it be overkill. Five minutes would be better than our 20 -30 minutes that we are waiting for a good evacuation.
You are better off keeping them assembled. O-rings have been around on assemblies like cars, pumps and other mechanical things for years. They are an elastomer seal. They are really good for that. Keeping them assembled keeps them clean and from getting damaged.
Could we get a similar level of detail / thought on a repair system, e.g. that has had oil in it, recovered, a leak fixed, a pressure test, and now it's vacuum time; what's a realistic expectation on a 5 year old system where you're trying to evacuate the condenser, compressor, etc. as well?
Same as if you have a good vacuum pump and good vacuum oil!!! Now if you have an old vacuum pump that never or rarely you change the oil. Don’t even bother to get a true blue and it do not matter if it is a 5 or 10 years old as long as you do a good practice on the system.🧐😅😅😅😂😂
Just a heads up to anyone buying the kit... it only comes with one hose adapter to each fitting size.... so you'll need a second adapter to connect a 1/4" vacuum pump to a 1/4" core tool. Unfortunately it seems the 1/4" fitting is back ordered for weeks everywhere as of this writing. "Adapter KF-16 to 1/4 FFL". Of course you can adapt the 3/8 hose end included in the kit to 1/4.
Hi Jim. Does the micro record a decay test same as the pro? Debating on the cost difference between the 2 when buying for several techs. I'm using the pro and need to get everyone logging the vacuum process to ensure they are doing things properly and leak free.
Great video Jim! I have a large repair coming up and want to be prepared. I have a 30 ton semi hermetic compressor had a heater blow out and lose the entire charge. System holds between 150-175lbs of refrigerant (huge ac system) would you think that with a 10cfm 2 stage pump, should I do a 2 hose or single hose hook up? I understand that this will take a while for the vacuum. But if I did a 2 hose, I would put on the suction and discharge service valves on the compressor, and I have a port on my liquid line to connect the micron gauge. Just looking for some experienced advice. This will be my largest system I've had the pleasure of working on. Thanks for all the great videos and advice. Love your channel! Jake
Hi Jim , thanks for the great video. I been at this for 35 yrs and was told moons ago that if you go much BELOW 250 micron on a compressor that it can cause the oil to fractionate and break down. Is there any truth to that? Thanks again.
no. compressor oil do not do that under 250 micron vacuum. oils have come a long way and most modern oils especially POEs are superb under vacuums. even modern mineral oils that are required in older systems have improved greatly compared to their predecessors.
jungapo2 it is a combination of out gassing and leakage. The gauge is super sensitive and high resolution. You will see things you simply do not see with other gauges.
@@MikaelS1977 ok I was taught under 250 micron break down the oil that why we stay close to the 500 mark and are happy with the evac. From Washington D.C.
No, the vapor pressure of most oils is in the single micron range or less. You can pull out things like fluorescent dyes and other contaminates that should not be in the oil in the first place, but you will not damage the oil itself.
