I've been cutting glass for 30 years and I applaud this video. This is hands down the best glass cutting video produced and I have only microscopic changes that I would suggest. Bravo to you all for producing such a professional and informative video.
where did you cut glass for a living ? this whole video was at best weak, showed nothing. Cut a mail slot in 3/8, parcel slot in 1/2, passthru and speaker hole in lami, cut a 48" circle out of 50x50 3/4 starfire. I also cut a few thousand tons of glass
Wow! What a great video, providing all the answers to my many questions. Right to to the point(s) and without distracting music and umms and aahms. Thank you, Bullseye Glass Co.
I found this video very useful indeed. I've often tried to cut glass before, without success. By paying attention to rudimentary principles introduced here, I managed to successfully cut my first window pane today. Thank you!
Thanks! That was only the first of the 100+ we've produced since and we humbly think they've only gotten better! www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/index-of-videos.html
There are a number of factors that contribute to success of cutting sheet glass. One of the key variables as you move from thin (2mm) sheets up through standard (3mm - 6mm) to thick (10mm +) is the choice of cutting wheel angle. We recommend angles of 120˚, 135˚, and 160˚ respectively for those thicknesses. That guidance and much more can be found in our free PDF download titled "12 Ways to Improve Your Cutting". www.bullseyeglass.com/12-ways-to-improve-your-glass-cutting/
FABULOUS & THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH....MY CUTTING JUST BECAME 25% SMOOTHER, SOFTER, AND EASIER. NOW IM ROCKING 99% this video has made a big difference. Yes, I always leave room for that poison apple..........Snow White Namaste........karen
You're welcome Christopher! Thanks for checking it out! That was literally the first video tutorial we made. Almost 100 more under our belts since then!
So what does one do with the leftover "scrap" glass when they are done with it? Are there people who will take it and reuse it, or some type of recycling center that takes glass shards? Or do you just have some special method of throwing it away safely?
You don't have to run off the edge of the glass with the cutter. That will chip the glass or could crack it. Instead you can stop close to the edge. But do what you want it's your art.
Jason, It really depends on how the score ran and what your needs are. Broadly speaking, a well-run score will have square (but not 'dull') edges which can be safely handled with basic precautions. That said, it's not uncommon for small sharp flares to develop, especially near the end of a run. These are extremely sharp. If your need is to tightly fit-up multiple pieces in a composition, you'll want to usea a sickle stone or hand-lap to smooth these out. Similarly if you're doing stained glass and need to tightly wrap foil tape along the edges. You'll want those to be square and safe to handle. Conversely if you're composing a piece with loose tolerances or if you know you'll be performing a lot of cold-work after fusing it may not be as critical to finish the edges so perfectly. Thanks!
Hello Al, Taking a quick look at the hand tools that we carry I see the general trend for country of manufacture to be: Bohle/Silberschnitt - Germany Toyo / Neo GC - Japan Leponitt - Taiwan GlassPro - Taiwan shop.bullseyeglass.com/tools-supplies/cutting-finishing.html Please talk to our sales team for confirmation on a specific tool. Thanks!
Informative video that is very much professional and thorough. Recently joined the team of a Bullseye resource center and this video both recapped my cutting training as well as filled in the few gaps that were still a little unclear. Thank you guys.
Arguably you could use this same 135˚ wheel angle for as thick as ~10mm. The general idea being that you'll want to use a wider cutting wheel angle as you get up into thicker sheet. Each circumstance will require its own best practice for scoring pressure and running but the fundamental process is the same. Check out our '12 Ways to Improve Your Cutting'. www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/improve-your-cutting.html If you'd like to discuss some specific use cases I invite you to drop in on our Facebook community page where we have a good size group of folks exchanging techniques and inspiration. facebook.com/groups/BullseyeGlassCommunity/
I am still confused about the oils. You used mineral spirits. I have heard a competent glass cutter say acetone- as in my nail polish remover. European videos mention Kerosene or gasoline. I don't think acetone has oil in it, or does it? The lubes available to me are acetone, sewing machine oil, and tri-flo. I suppose I could siphon a dab of gas from the car..., but I am working to do the best job with the least amount of money. Some guys don't even use oil, saying that the new carbide tips don't need it. You, on the other hand, used a self oiling tool with a carbide tip They do not work with the tools that you have, and of course they don't get into intricate inside curves, etc. I have also seen people brush their lubricant directly onto the glass as well as the cutting tool. That would mess up any lines I have drawn on the glass! I am just going for a simple straight cut- used to do it all the time and now I am not so sure of myself. From all the advice from people that did a good cut, I am wondering if I could use olive oil, vaseline, huh... Chrisco...? Enough. I'm gonna march into the work shop and cut that glass. Now. I am not making a Cathedral here lol- thanks for a great tape- Can you add any other glass cutting lubricants that you have used?
First off, absolutely do not use gasoline. It's flammable (obvs), toxic, and smelly. Historically, people have used white spirits (turpentine) because it evaporates cleanly. However that same reason is why it is toxic and unpleasant to handle so we don't use it. We use and recommend Silberschnitt Cutting Fluid which is a light, low-odor mineral oil. Using a self-oiling cutter is probably the easiest and most reliable method. Brushing it on the scoring path and then dipping the head of a non-lubricated cutter is also a valid technique. Don't over-think it. Just be sure that you do use something. We distinctly advise against dry cutting.
Cutting out an interior circle is very hard. You can't just score the perimeter and pop it out. You'd need to score successive smaller segments inside and then break one of them out to allow for a relief area into which the rest of the segment scores could run. This is hard on a free piece of glas on the bench-top let alone while still glazed which sounds exceptionally difficult. Even if you could, mounting a relatively heavy (and vibrating) exhaust fan into a single pane of glass sounds insecure and highly likely to fail. I'd tend towards recommending to replace the glass where you'd want the fan with a panel of plywood.
Using either the 'Bohle Silberschnitt Studio Circle Cutter' or the 'Bohle Silberschnitt Repetitive Small Circle Cutter' you can cut circles smaller than 10cm diameter. Near the end of this lesson the 'Bohle Silberschnitt Studio Circle Cutter' is demonstrated. shop.bullseyeglass.com/tools-supplies/cutting-finishing/bohle-silberschnitt-studio-circle-cutter-with-ball-bearing-head.html shop.bullseyeglass.com/tools-supplies/cutting-finishing/bohle-silberschnitt-repetitive-small-circle-cutter.html
if you drop any glass this shoe aint save you trust me im working this for years try your best not to drop a glass on your legs. also if you are carrying heavy glass try not to slide your hands or no glove can save you
The ball on the end of the cutter I think is for after you score you tap the ball end down the underside of the score line and then break. I don't see anyone do that. I guess that isn't necessary?
I have a container of hair clippers oil (for lubricating steel cutters) that states on the bottle that it's made from petroleum distillates. Is that suitable to use for glass cutters? Thanks for video!
Generally speaking, a light mineral oil is what the dedicated glass cutter oils are made of. The idea being that it flows easily to keep chips and grit out of the wheel axel and cool it. I can't say for sure about what you have but it sounds similar.
Thanks for the quick reply. I just checked with Wikipedia, & they state: "Mineral oil is any of various colorless, odorless, light mixtures of higher alkanes from a mineral source, particularly a distillate of petroleum". There are various grades, so I'm hoping the hair clippers oil will be ok for glass. Thanks again (from Perth, Western Australia).
As shown in this video we commonly cut 2, 3, & 6mm sheet glass as those are the dimensions of the product we produce. We also have reliable techniques for dividing 19mm thick billets although that is not with the level of detail control as possible with sheet.
@11Bravo40 Hey thanks! Plenty more to be seen both free and as part of our online education subscription. Let us know if there are other topics you'd like to see. (This was the very first one we made!)
Hi Tam, The specific cutter in the video is the Toyo Self-Oiling Cutter. We have that one (and others) and a whole range of glass and supplies on our web store (or at any of our Resource Center locations). shop.bullseyeglass.com/toyo-self-oiling-cutter.html Thanks!
Only things I would have liked to be included are cutting plate glass(1/4" x 3' for example) and sanding edges. Other than that, this is the most clear tutorial I've seen. Well done.
Hi, thanks for the comments. Can you tell me more about what you mean by 'cutting plate glass' that isn't covered here? While we do not make float glass the technique is essentially the same. Re: 'sanding the edges' take look at our videos on the topic of 'coldwork'. Our 'Coldworking with Loose Grit' video is free to watch. videos.bullseyeglass.com/video-topic/coldworking/
@@BullseyeGlass Since I don't work with glass, I"m not familiar with the correct terms. So, my comment about "plate glass" just meant a large piece of glass for me. I have a 1/4" thick mirror that is 36" x 32" that I need to reduce. I believe I need to cut it to 36" x 29". Barely having a place to lay it down and try cutting it, I worry. Other videos show scoring the glass(mirror) and popping the short piece. For me that is a brave thing. LOL. Many of your examples grab the end of the score and have the split run all the way across the glass piece. Would that work with my 1/4" mirror to the full 36" ? BTW thanks for the reply. B-)
@@CandC68 Ah, I see! So yes, it's really the same process. If I understand what you're describing, you need to take a 3"x36" strip off of the end of a larger piece, right? In that case, just like the video, you would make a score and then 'run' it. For a piece that large you might find it easier to modify how you run it. Instead of picking it up and running from the end of the score, you'd place the scored piece on top of a straightedge and with the waste piece cantilevered out place quick firm pressure on the waste piece and the score will open. IOW, you're using the straightedge as a fulcrum underneath the score and then applying pressure to split it open. Makes sense?
this would probably be the most helpful glass cutting video on youtube. BUT!!! god the way that woman pronounces measurement nearly had me punch the computer screen.
