The reason to use wax, or other such resist, is because it's easier to clean a few drops off of that, than to scrub it off a rough bisqueware. There will always be some residue left, if you just sponge it off the bare bisque, but it's so little that it doesn't really melt, like it would if it were applied thickly (normally).
When you vacuum it can take a long time for resin or even glaze to enter a body of a product 45sec is not enough time good try but I would do it again at like 1 hr 4h and 6h times
I've watched this a couple of times and I always wince when you're breaking those fun little tests. Nevertheless I ALWAYS enjoy your videos and appreciate all the work you put in.
Glazes with solubles in them would be a problem as the solubles get wicked/sucked into the clay body, so for instance glazes with soda ash or borax. But fritted glazes have these components fixed in glass.
Your B-mix probably won't get glaze stuck to the bottom, especially if you are burnishing it after trimming. I throw with really gritty clay and the glaze, even with wax, finds it's way into nooks. The vacuum might do something interesting to shinos.
Do you have a walkway or flower bed that you break up your stuff goes into for a secondary use for any failures? In this not a failure, except broken. The experiments you do are very interesting.
And if you would try it with water soluble materials like lithium carbonate? Those would get into the clay. But it would just discolor the clay. It wouldn't give you glaze in the clay, just lithium carb in the clay. I think.
Hi Justin great experiment, maybe on a more porous (groggy and lower bisqued) clay body one might force glaze into? B-Mix which is a medium fire porcelain alternative and may be having similar porcelain vitrifying properties? ( Not sure). On another note what vacuum system did you use, especially the pot and thick acrylic lid? Thank you.
I want to see what happens when you completely submerge the vessel in the glaze, and then pull a vacuum for several minutes. Total coverage on all sides, and let it soak for a few minutes outside the vacuum chamber before you take it out of the glaze.
Have you ever put freshly made clay into a vacuum chamber to degass it instead of a pug mill? Cant afford pug $$ mill. Wondering if that would degass enough before wedging to get tighter packed clay.