Great explanation and overall effort in the making of this video. It definitely deserves more views and thus far is the best comparison that I found. Subbed. Thanks!
Great work. Your effort is deserves lots of respect. I'm using a innorel sp70 right now. Which is very similar with yelangu s60t. With your versus; I decided, I should wait a little bit more before buy the glidecam. Practising with my innorel is gonna best for my budget. Thanks a lot! You have got a new subscriber. Good luck with your channel.
To anyone who's thinking about buying the Yelangu S60 for a PANASONIC LUMIX G7 - don't do it. I bought it and the camera is wayyyy too light for that thing. After hours and hours of tries - I gave up and went buying something else. Like this comment so that others won't make my mistake.
Dramatello hey man I bought G7 just a few weeks ago and the S60t also before even seeing this -.- dam. So have you since purchased another Stabilizer that’s works well?
Gerald Sultana hey. I actually gave up completely on stabilizers and just went with a regular tripod, which delivers a very different service I know (u can’t run with it for instance). But that’s ok for my current purpose and I don’t do that much videoshooting. Good luck though
Congratulations. Excellent video. Very comprehensive comparison. Everything spot on. You deserve more suscriptores than Peter McKinnon. Keep on doing this quality stuff and I’m pretty sure you will.
Thank you for this in-depth comparative review. I watched many RU-vid video's concerning the setup of this type of handheld stabilizers, but you are the first reviewer who bring up the importance of "momentum" and "rotational inertia" (at 19:15). I appreciate very much the clarity and serenity of your reviews. Keep up the good work !
The S60 is just crying out for some hacks to spread the weight out further. Nitsan Simantov has a good hack for small sleds ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zSBSE0a7YV4.html
I got an old HD1000. The only issue is the bearing. It makes it twist a bit. But way less than shown in this video. I would go with Glidecam alone because of the better bearing. The twisting can wreck all your footage.
The style of construction of the base is better in Glidecam HD1000 than the Yelangu. The longer base give better stability as well and balancing is better by being able to be itself shorten and lengthen. The spaces in the base construction is something special as it allow wind to pass in quick movements and did not flank around against the wind when taking quick curves. The round counter weight in Yelangu is a very bad choice. It spin a little in quick movements and effects the stability and has only one hole while the HD1000 sit with two holes that makes it better. For type of people who can appreciate this type of mechanical stabilizer the time taken to adjust is not important but the performance after the painstaking adjustments. I started with Fly cam and ended trying to buy a better one after lots of electronic gimbals. The movements are more realistic. Flycam has a base somewhat like the Yelangu that also has a rounded counterweight and i hate that. Now is about to be 2021 and i am hunting again the HD series . To me these mechanical stabilizers dont look like a past but like a future to film making.
Very helpful! Thank you very very much! I have the s60t and I really needed the tips you offer at the end of the video, as well as someone professional behind the steer to actually get the maximum out of it! I have a question thouh. Speaking of the dropping time, couldn't you get more time by taking away some weight? I use it for example with my canon 6D and I realised that using the minimum weight plates, I can get more time than 3 seconds! And another question if I may. Do you think that getting the whole stick out influences in any way the stabilization of the steadycam? I always have this doubt since I bought it a couple of months ago, and even though I'm using it on a regular basis (once every other day almost) I just can't get the really smooth footage I wished.
Hi, thanks for your feedback. For your first question about droptime, the weight only has an indirect impact on it. Since the top and bottom sleds have to be weighted relative to each other, they therefore cancel each other out as far as the droptime effect is concerned. The direct way to alter the droptime to the desired time duration is by adjusting the length of the mode. As for the second question about the stickout (mode), i think it does, but only in a minor way. What happens, at least in theory, is that anytime the distribution of bottom sled weight is further away from the fulcrum (center of balance), it's momentum during the aphelion (sorry for the jargon, just look it up :) region of the swing takes longer to return to the perihelion region (center of balance). This is the result of a greater swing radius, and why i think that the shortest mode possible is preferable. In practical use, is this a big deal? No, i don't think it is, because their are other operations of psychics involved that can be manipulated by the user that i will not get into here, but i have seen other youtubers glidecaming in the tall mode and their footage looks fine. Altho that is probably either because they are experienced operators, or they are not, but just show only the best portions of their work. Other things to think about, are that the tall mode is more likely to bump into your knees when in use, and is more likely to tip over when standing upright on a level surface when not in use. I hope this helps, and thanks again for watching!
not 100% sure but i think you made an error at 4:07. I was under the impression that the s60t could reach a 60cm height. I think you need to make the bottom end longer.
Further weights = more leverage = faster drop time. You should make the arm as long as possible then have the minimum amount of weight, that way you have less weight that will tire you out.
Strange choice for a comparison - with one priced multiple times of the other. Maybe not exactly comparing a Nissan Micra to a Caddy but that’ll serve to illustrate. They inhabit very different price points and it’s hard to see who this is aimed at. If it’s someone with a $500 budget he’s hardly likely to skimp on quality and buy the the cheapie. And vice versa. And choosing a high end one that’s discontinued makes it even stranger - as anyone watching this and wanting the expensive one will most likely be unable to source an example. Making this (very well produced) comparison a bit of a dinosaur? As for myself - matching several budget models in this way would be VERY useful. (Especially if none of them is discontinued at the time....)
["cam," meaning the HD 1000 or the s60t?] Hello, yes the a7iii would be fine on the either one of these glidecams, but not the 5" monitor. I have a 5" monitor (Small HD), but i don't think that there is enough room to mount it on the top sled of the HD 1000. Perhaps the HD 2000, but i haven't tried it yet. [indirectly speaking] Even if it was able to be mounted a 5" monitor on the camera or the top sled, i think that you wouldn't like it because the distribution of mass would be so high up from the center of gravity/balance that stability would significantly compromised. I notice this effect from an external mic on my camera's hot shoe, imagine how much worse it would be with a monitor. But to answer your question directly, yes i'm sure it is _technically_ possible. I hope that helps, thanks for asking :)
Yelangu reoil is easier than hd1000. You do not need tools to open the lid. You just need to fold the palm of the hand into the lid and it can be opened
