Thank you for putting this up on RU-vid. You made a really difficult task manageable just by showing exactly where the bolts are. And the pen cap trick...genius! You saved me a lot of time and frustration. Thanks again!
pen cap trick is pretty slick, great tip. For the rear bolt there's also the flexible cable/socket but the wobble is better and something most of us already have, and yes 10 bolts, the hose is a pain in the as also. take your time and you''ll get it.
He man, change the title of this video to: HELPFUL TIPS FOR ADVANCED MECHANICS. because I don't need to see how to remove each and every bolt. What you explained was high level issues and methods. Perfect to know what problems to be aware of. TY sir!
I find that when using a flex adapter that it helps to wrap electrical tape around it to limit the amount of flex. That allows the adapter to move some but not just drop when you let go of it to guide it into a blind or hard to access area .I have also used a wrap of tape to prevent the socket or extensions from coming apart and falling out of sight .
I have to remove all this junk just to access the dead starter on our 2007 Saab 9-7x (part of the TrailVoy fam) and I really appreciate these tips. Especially wish I saw this when we replaced the fuel lines last year! 😅
Instead of disconnecting the fuel line disconnect the fuel pressure regulator off the fuel rail Instead. It uses a hex 30 bit after removing those two bolts you can pull the regulator from the fuel rail easily by hand .
I don't know why everyone says you need something "extra" to get the back bolt out - a 1/4-drive ratchet, 3" extension, and deepwell 10mm was all it took for me. I was worried when I read somewhere that you needed a wobble and a three-foot extension, and had to go in through the wheelwell.
Thanks brother. I got all the intake bolts loose through the driver side fender well. I was already doing a brake job so the wheel was off. I used a deep 10mm socket on a swivel and my impact and a short 10mm swivel combo. That one by the alt was a bitch but got that also with swivels and my impact. Cheers!
Thank you for this video. I'm chasing a p0171 code and Autozone said the #1 injector. I bought one anyways but I think the code is mostly related to loose nuts/bolts but I bought the gaskets and everything anyways.
Be ready to struggle removing those injectors because those things ARE IN THERE GOOD! Make sure you clean the injector hole and the injector gasket before you reinstall for no leaks and easier installation. I highly recommend putting a little 2 stroke oil or Vaseline on the injector gaskets because they're a pain to reinstall. When putting them install them on the fuel rail first then into the engine. Gently push them into the engine holes as best as you can. Then take a mallet and hit each individual one until it looks like it's in. Make sure not to hit to hard and make sure the injector gaskets don't tear. Best of luck
As for that mid plenum stiff hose it would be safer to remove bottom hose clamp and pull off the then slide it off upper connection avoiding stress on plenum connection tubes. But, you got it done anyway. Nice job.
BOLT NEAR FIREWALL; Jack up the truck and remove the front wheel. Lift the flap up (Not sure, i think its a dust flap) and you can see the last bolt. A few extensions and that wobble thing and you're good.
Disconnect the Battery, *use a wobble 1/4 extension with shallow 10mm* (I was doing the valve cover gasket/plugs/fan clutch/PCM/Intake manifold gaskets. I used a 1/4 torque wrench same wobble extention on the back bolt. The PLASTIC fuel(Lisle 39400 Angled Disconnect Tool Set ) like $12. I did all of that and new throttle body runs like new (including coil packs/plugs). WAY cheaper having a paid off vehicle for the parts money I spent (plus I did all the labor). REPLACE the dry-rotted PVC Rubber vent tube it OEM $6 (also did the waterpump) when I was in there. I use OEM parts as these are not really fun to work on. And the thermostat (hoses) ect.. LOT of preventive maintenance but it is 15 years old to.
you should have showed us from start to removal of intake manifold. instead of show us you had it out already. , my question for you is how did you get past the steel pipes in that are of the rear bolt by firewall. ????
When you mean steel pipes do you mean the fuel lines? And also yes, there is bolt all the way in the end of the manifold by the fire wall. I explain how to remove it in the video. Thank you for watching
@@-ExperienceWithMe- I just noticed splash marks on the intake manifold cover - but I've been using MMO - there's two definite spots. Anyway - that pen cover idea is ingenious. thanks. Got any idea what could be causing the two splash spots? Must be the upper lubrication of the valve gasket by the MMO? haha. I am totally guessing but the engine seems to be running well. There's a lifter tick that I'm trying to get rid of....
@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 glad I can help. Did you already do the job on the car or not yet? For the splash spots I'm not sure what that could be, I have to see in person. And what do you mean by MMO? And for the valve ticking try using sea foam treat meant. I hear great things about it.
@@-ExperienceWithMe- thanks for the response and recommendation. Marvel's Mystery Oil. Yeah the car is back at the dealer. Local mechanic says the rear pinion seal is leaking like a sieve and whoever did the job needs to redo it. haha. It was just replaced a couple weeks ago - I thought it was the differential rear cover still leaking.
If I remember correctly there's 2 screws on top and 2 nuts that need removing on the bottom. After you remove the nuts. You also need to remove the threads them self with a tiny sucker. Be very careful not to strip the threads
Maybe too late - I have some old( I think I got them in the mid 80's) Snap-on wrenches that have a open end wrench on one end and a socket on a pivot on the other, the back bolt to about 30 seconds to get off, hold it at about 70 or 80 degrees to put it on the bolt then fold it till as close too 90 as you can get and turn.
its only this one the other set up is way easier... when i found out i had to take the alternator off i was like nah i had to deal with a thermostat install im not taking it out again until it dies... taking it to a shop to change my injectors... i was so mad. the TRQ video was very misleading
@@-ExperienceWithMe- They may not all be this way but having this one is enough for me. Never again. I think everyone involved all the way up and down the chain should be ashamed of themselves. All this pain for a freaking valve cover gasket, a freakin maintenance job ffs.
It took me about 3 days. I was inexperienced so someone experienced I guess can do it faster. Maybe a days work? Plus I was taking my sweet time with it.
@@mahonesjones4190 honestly I had a very hard time getting the alternator out because it's super tight in that area second hardest fore was the intake bolts. It was mostly time consuming.
@@-ExperienceWithMe- raise the truck high enough so you can stick your arm underneath to the both.... It's still not a friendly process but you have more access to remove and tighten the bolt if needed
