Yes, The 4.2 Has A PCV System 

That's what I'm here for .... thanks.

Thank-you for that accolade.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks. I appreciate that comment.

Glad it helped. Once the PCV is working correctly, cleaning the throttle body will be on a 3-year schedule.

You're welcome. My pleasure.

Thanks for your comment. It means a lot.

It is a niche-video that only applies to people who actually own these vehicles. As such, and that many people start changing the air filters, rotating the tires and changing the taillight bulbs to fix oil leaks at the valve cover and condensate buildup in the crankcase. Thanks for your comment.

Makes sense .... no moving parts .... heh, heh.

That's never a fun-job. Prayers sent. Done & done.

I love MMO --- but I tend to not put it into "metered-flow" style lubrication systems like our 4.2s. In a "pressure-type" oil flow system, the higher the oil pressure -- the better (up to a point). BUT --> our engines are lubricated by metered oilflow, not pressure. That's why GM created the strawman oil pressure gauge on the dash. ....... it tells of what a "normal" engine would have for oil pressure IF it was a pressure-lubricated engine. Owners would freak out if they saw 12lbs of oil pressure on the gauge - right? But that's what it is! About MMO --- I use it - a lot of it really - primarily in my air tools air inlet for lubrication --- and I love the aroma of it too! I also like to use it when I'm tapping threads into aluminum --- kerosene is better, but harder to find where I live. So ---> it's Marvel Mystery Oil to the rescue - but not in our engines.

You bet! Estoy a tu servicio.

The hose is easily available in bulk at most auto parts houses .... they will cut it as long or short as you need. Clamps? Well --- with a new hose maybe not --- but the factory has a policy to clamp almost everything and that's not a bad thing. PS ---> buy the new piece of hose before you damage the old one.

Glad to help. I shouldda made a better quality vid, but I was in a great big hurry and got it out without editing it at all.

Unfortunately the exhaust manifold has issues with breaking bolts and cracking. Once you hear noise from there it needs an intervention. The donut doesn't seem to be a big problem though.

I tend to not bother with taking the hose off the plastic nipple and instead remove the lower hose clamp and pull the hose up and open the metal tube. ...... The metal tube is what you're after here - in some situations it's easier to take it off the top nipple - some it's easier from the lower nipple. ..... You want to get the B12 into the tube, not necessarily the hose - but if you get it into the tube, it'll naturally run down into where we want it to go anyway. ..... That big rubber hose is never gonna plug up without someone pouring JB Weld in it - and the actual problem is further down inside that metal tube.

Berryman's B12 comes in both spray and liquid and it is the fuel treatment - among other things (like paint removal and making your hands dry and chapped). "Style" is sometimes underappreciated - although I like the Archie & Mehitabel (donmarquis.com/archy-and-mehitabel/) literary style --- (but I can use capitols and Carriage Return on my old IBM Selectronic) --- however I'm somewhat more stylistically reminiscent of somewhere between Suzuki Beane and H*Y*M*A*N* K*A*P*L*A*N with a little Victor Borge thrown in for balance.

@@SurferJoe46 The mix is superb. I dig it, sir.

I have nothing but blackness looking down that standpipe ... there is no mechanism about which to worry - it's just a direct passage to the intake runners that will carry fumes and vapors from the crankcase when the engine's running - that's all.

All access as we need it is over the driver's side left fender. If you can't get the lower clamp off --- just pour the Berryman's Chemtool B-12 directly into the rubber hose when/if you get it off from the top clamp and plastic nipple. Thankfully --- on plastic --- the hose will be much easier to release and pull off because it won't create corrosion and make it hard to remove. Plastic and rubber don't really like each other anyway --- so they're happy to be bisected from each other.

@@SurferJoe46 thank you Sir. Hope you have a great day.

The liquid is going into the intake and won't contaminate the oil in the engine. It's a totally different system. Persistence is the answer and it will get better and better with every application. You've gotta keep at it until you think it's really clean - evidenced by the vacuum at the oil filer when you put your hand over it while the engine's running.

PS .... I also used an air nozzle with a long tube and pushed it down into the hose and hit the trigger a few times ... not really letting the pressure get too high ... a touchy-feely thing that uses a 6th sense to know when enough is enough and when to stop.

Vacuum at the dipstick may be next to impossible to feel --- perhaps a vacuum gauge would see it though. The inside of the engine should be under a negative value (no pressure --- good amount of vacuum) all the time and it is especially noticeable at idle 'cause you can get to it whilst the engine is running. Keeping a good vacuum metric is only possible if the system's working properly. When there's no vacuum is when things start to leak or seep oil. I'd say you should be in a pretty good place if you can get good vacuum in the engine crankcase.

1. There is no PCV valve. You cannot buy one - nor does one exist --- but I guess some unscrupulous persons might sell you one. 2. Oil in the box is because of positive pressure in the crankcase because the PCV is not working. 3. Stalling after warm-up can be from the MAF or BMAP not sending valid metrics to the engine management system (PCM) 4. Bad metrics from the BMAP or MAP is because the PCV is not working. 5. Idle speed is baked-into the computer - it is not adjustable - don't even try. 6. Don't lower the river, raise the bridge by fixing the obvious problem first.

Yeah --- you've got it. >> You can actually take the hose off if the engine's running and it will stumble a bit and catch itself and steady up after a few moments. The throttle will need to close a lot further than normal and it may be dirty - but mostly the motor can overcome any soft contamination. >> Still - it's best to turn the engine off and pour the B12 in and just slip the hose back on without the clamp if you want to do this a few times, trying to get a better dose into the system. >> repeat until you either get some results or you get tired. >> I used my compressor with a long tipped blower nozzle to force a lot of air into the lower portion of the system --- the metal part --- and just blew through the clogged up gunk --- but it takes a little effort after pre-softening the crud with the B12. >> Put the clamp back on before you decide to drive away though .... OK?

Will do, thanks. I appreciate it a lot. Not a lot of info around about this.

Remember this isn't clraning the injectors or fuel system; it's trying to dissolve caked and baked on crud and deposits from years of neglect. I understand that Chevron Techron is another good solvent, but I've never used it. B12 I know; others not much at all.

OK --- there is no "valve" as you are thinking. it has no variable orface ... the vacuum is controlled by the MAP sensor in the plenum, right after the throttle plate. If the vacuum goes too low in the plenum, the ECM will not allow the throttle to open too much. It's kinda complicated to explain and I'm working on a video to explain it - that's gonna take a little bit to edit as that's going to be my first video editing project. Normally I just turn on the camera and let things just happen as they will.

The hose, really, has a top and a bottom and is hollow and one side goes to the plenum after the throttle plate and the other goes to the intake runners, just before the intake valves. It's really the same thing, just it's a lot easier to pour liquids DOWN into a hose than pouring them UP a hose. Gravity sux.

yeah he wasn't really clear on how to clean it out - so left us wondering - unless someone is a real expert. haha. I look forward to the answer. thanks - below he answers it: I tend to not bother with taking the hose off the plastic nipple and instead remove the lower hose clamp and pull the hose up and open the metal tube. ...... The metal tube is what you're after here - in some situations it's easier to take it off the top nipple - some it's easier from the lower nipple. ..... You want to get the B12 into the tube, not necessarily the hose - but if you get it into the tube, it'll naturally run down into where we want it to go anyway. ..... That big rubber hose is never gonna plug up without someone pouring JB Weld in it - and the actual problem is further down inside that metal tube.

Ewe awaawswawswawaswawawswawawawa

Both of the hoses for the pcv system can get clogged and create the same scenario. The hose that is connected to the air plenum does not need to be clamped. It is designed to not need one. You can use carbon cleaner/brake cleaner instead of B12 as long as you clean it out really good and let it dry before putting back together. Just as long as you don't leave a " pond " inside the plenum the air from the vacuum will evaporate the rest. The other hose from the air intake can be quite brittle after time. If you feel it and can't pinch it to check flexibility then I suggest buying some from the auto store. I like to just blow air in into the hose from a compressor. That one should have clamps on both ends of that hose. The air plenum is usually the one to be clogged. I check mines after every oil change. But be careful with the opening on the air plenum that connects to the hose. Those have broke on plenty of people and either replaced it or jb welded it back together

You got it correct. You can pour the B12 into the rubber(stiff/old) hose or into the lower metal nipple that turns 90 degrees into the area near the actual headgasket. Either place is ok ... it'll get there somehow. B12 has mighty strong vapors --- I wouldn't smoke or be eating a sandwich at the same time --- although i've ingested a lot of B12 over the years and it nebber bO7he-e-e-e-e-e-e-red me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The left side really... all directions on a vehicle are as viewed from the driver's seat.

Thank-you for asking this question --- The emulsion (a mixture of oil and water) under the OIL cap has to be addressed first. With the engine running, reach under the sound chamber and flick the "s-hose" off the nipple that comes up from the valve cover. Check for vacuum at that nipple, not the sound chamber side of the s-hose.

@SurferJoe46 thanks for getting back to me. So I have no vacuum at that s pipe. After checking it I put my finger over the nipple, and I do get a small whistle when I pull my finger off it

I'll have to look ... but off the top I say not likely. The liabilities of damaging an engine would be countered by a lot of lawsuits.

Actually, the "S" hose and the "L" hose are miles apart in function and they are not really related except they are on the same engine and are working to correct the emissions that every engine creates --- not counting two-cycle engines though. . Let me clarify that --- the PCV system consists of both a KV (atmospheric pressure side) and a CV side that is under full plenum vacuum at all times, but not like in the Olden Days. The CV side goes directly to the intake runners for each cylinder where the vacuum is created by that particular cylinder's intake stroke that pulls air through the throttle body at the same time as it inhales the vapors from the crankcase. Complicated? Just a bit! Mostly it's complicated by the fact that there's no real dedicated vacuum control valve --- commonly called: “The PCV Valve” --- but that's redundant. Of course, there's a lot more to this simplified assessment than I have written here.

@@SurferJoe46 Thanks for the clarification again Joe - yeah I had the air blasting out of that hole when I took the bottom end of the L hose off. So I figured it was already cleared out. I've been good at changing the oil every 3K and also have used MMO in the crankcase. So... anyway - I did put acetone in that hole - just a capful of the the B12 Berryman.... I put the rest into the fuel tank. My MpG went up a mile !! So that B12 Berryman is the best for cleaning out the fuel. Thanks again for the help - kind of exciting that I get better mileage now more than ever at 270K miles. If I got 55 miles per hour then I can get 24 mpg. Not bad.

Berryman's B-12. You might want to use the spray version if you like.

The Atlas/Vort4ex 4.2 does NOT have an EGR; it has VVT and it is therefor exempt of needing the EGR.

Either way. You just have to get the B12 into that circuit - it'll run down and soften the deposits.

@@SurferJoe46 My S hose bottom end is OFF and disconnected! And there's oil sprayed around that area. So that must mean the pressure built up to blow it off? Or did some mechanic remove it you think? How bad it is to run the engine with that disconnected? I've probably ran it that way a long time. haha. I removed and cleaned the throttle body but I don't think I forgot to connect that hose? I'll check the instructions of throttle body cleaning - I don't think it required disconnecting that S hose.... hmm.

Seafoam is not aggressive enough to clean these passageways ----- it is really just the equivalent of green soap that was used in lavatories in grammar schools when I was a kid. I had an industrial chemist tell me that and I have no reason to doubt him. Seafoam won't harm your vehicle paint, but I'm not too sure your paint would be safe with B-12 on it.

@@SurferJoe46 I notice 2x 8mm or so bolts in there can I remove an replace this part? or does the whole plenum require removal also. In anycase, i'll have to purchase the B12 online.. Canadians have no good products for sale :P such as B12 unless you could recommend something of the sort. I have zero vacuum from the oil dipstick also. I've read a few posts in here but to keep it simple I'm focusing on the port on the bottom that has almost no vacuum? the top one has great suction. Or both would be beneficial?

The green hose? The black hose?... give me a hint.

The solution may be multi-fold in that, ultimately the oil on the tops of the plugs - and this means inside the sparkplug wells machined into the head - comes from the valve cover gasket failing to hold the oil inside the top of the engine. That said ---> there's a reason WHY it's happening and this leak is not really "typical" unless something else is working on it to cause it to fail -- talking about the valve cover gasket. 1. Pressure is not supposed to exist inside the valve cover --- also not in the crankcase by inclusion. 2. The biggest problem is failure to service the crankcase ventillation system, and that's what my video was all about. 3. The whole inside of the engine - the crankcase, by common name - is supposed to be under at least SOME vacuum at all times. 4. View the video and see what other people have had for their experiences and see if you can find how you can help your engine to not leak. Find the cause and fix the problem.

You'll get blank stares if you ask for what it's supposed to be called: KV Hose. That it's leaking oil is a bad thing - it proves the system isn't working because there's never supposed to be any oil there - not in the hose or the nipple or the sound chamber or the throttle body.

2 things that can cause limp mode. The gas pedal sensor goes bad or the fan clutch sensor is bad. I used a $40 dollar scanner

I am currently of the opinion that a P0300 is a red herring (false flag) that can keep people changing coils, injectors and plugs for eternity. There are actually quite a few things that can cause the P0300 and they are not truly related to anything going on in the combustion chambers. I have begun writing about it in the TrailVoy website. ( www.trailvoy.com/ )

Did you watch the video? I explained it all.

I answered this before ...... if you do that, you won't get full throttle. The BMAP/map sensor will be starved for the correct metrics.

"The" formed hose is not likely available --- but it is easy enough to buy some bulk CV hose at your local auto parts. Remember that all hoses that are in the PCV/KV/CV/AIR Injection system(s) even if you don't have all of those I just mentioned --- will have hose that is measured in 32ds of an inch. Examples ---> 15/32", 11/32", 9/32", 5/32" ... etc. This was to keep people from replacing the correct hose for a piece of garden hose. The reason is that garden hose will melt whereas real emission-type hose will not.

"Oil spring"? Where is this thing to which you post? I don't recognize the question nor where a spring would be in the oil-areas.

What engine? The 5.3 MAY have an active PC valve --- this I do not know as I am trying to help with the 4.2 Atlas Engine only.

1st --- the fuel system in the tank is under vacuum. If you pressurize it --- here come the flying monkeys. 2. If you do not promote or at least maintain a vacuum in the crankcase, condensate builds up rapidly and gets homogenized into the oil and destroys the bearings, is especially nasty to the cam and followers and will rust the VVT into an inconvenient place that'll throw codes all day long.

@@SurferJoe46 I never cared for flying monkeys. Thanks for the reply, I guess I won't reengineer my PCV system after all. 👍🏻

I'm not clear on what you mean by "spraying" as I never said to use the spray version of B12; use the LIQUID version and pour some into the hose, reattach the hose, start the engine after a short time. Are you sure you have air coming out the left side hose? I ask because you are supposed to pour liquid B12 into the left hose. Remember --- the left side of the engine is the driver's side as if you are sitting in the car sitting behind the wheel. The only thing that will restrict the air flow is that the passageways inside the head intake runners --- are full of hardened gunk. It may take several --- many --- a lot of treatments to get it to start working if it's never been cleaned or kept clean for years by now. Make sure the engine's up to normal temperature before you put the B12 into the hose --- and let it sit because the vapors are very aggressive if you let it boil for a bit. Repeat at least a few times - weekly if possible until things start getting cleaner and cleaner. .

Huh what I meant Sprayed I used Carburator Cleaner and the used an Air Hose when I did the Air spray Air came out the other PVC hose on the right side of Motor PVC but still no Vacuum on my Oil Stick , P0171 code and P030 O2 sensor code something seems Plugged up still in Motor > You think it could be the Head Intake runners , I did Add some Rislone to clean Motor and used some Fuel cleaner .@@SurferJoe46

@@lassiejr2115 I'm still confused. There is NO PCV hose on the right side of the "motor" as you put it. There IS a KV hose - the short "S-shaped" hose that goes between the air-sound deadening chamber and the valve cover however. Is this the "PCV" hose to which you are erroneously referring? "Carberetor spray" is not the correct liquid to use. Specifically, I said: "Berryman's B-12" is correct as it is very much more aggressive than other chemicals in this application. You state that "something seems plugged up still in (the) motor" and I cannot reason how you came to that idea because the P0171 means you have a Fuel Trim System Lean condition in Bank 1--- and no way can a defective/inoperative PCV system cause that. Your P0303 is also NOT caused by a defective/inoperative PCV system. FYI --> P0303 indicates a problem in #3 cylinder --- but it is not suggesting any cure or deeper diagnosis in that cylinder --- it just says there is something wrong in how #3 cylinder is performing --- and that may actually be a red herring too. P0303 is not a malfunction from a bad/ineffective PCV system --- it is related to only one cylinder and the PCV system involves ALL cylinders and cannot just pick on one or two ---- You are in over your head I think and are not categorically NOT following my instructions and you are making wild a$$ assumptions that are not logical nor part of helping the PCV to return to a good working condition. These codes are another problem entirely NOT related to the PCV system,

@@lassiejr2115 DANGER ---> Using Rislone or any other magic-in-a-can cleaners or additives is totally counterindicated for this engine. This engine needs FLOW, not pressure as it meters the oil to the many zones it is needed and adding something that cleans and changes the viscosity of the oil can be extremely damaging to this engine. Stop using these chemicals in the crankcase! You are harming your engine.

Thks for your advice >@@SurferJoe46

What. Are. You. Talking. About? You are afraid to take a hose off because you're afraid? Of what? What can go wrong with putting it back on? This is done countless times on hoses all over the auto repair world! "Clogged briefly" isn't even possible. Just watch the video and do what it says --- you will succeed --- somehow.

@@SurferJoe46 OK I'll use the other car to get B12 and go to it! haha. thanks

@@SurferJoe46 OK that "clamp" on the new PVC hose does NOT do anything. It's there just to have something to grab onto to pull the hose off. OK I'll go buy some B12 now and then pull off the old hose. haha. I'll warm the car up first idling and then pull the hose off and the pour in the B12. Thanks for the inspiration.

On a 4.2? That's interesting because the 4.2 only has one cat.

@SurferJoe46 the 08 trailblazer had an updated longer exhaust, clogged up both of them, swapped them out with a cheap ebay special pipe and unplugged the upper sensor, purrs like a kitty now lol

☼ I think not because ---> for a P0171 problem code to come from the PCV system, the AFR is significantly lean ---- and there's not really any way the CV-side of the PCV could cause that unless the hose was either badly damaged or totally missing. .............. a P0171 means the PCM is detecting the engine is receiving too much air and not enough fuel. ☼ That would be a gross leak which I think might be so-o-o out-of-range for the computer to handle ... you should get a flashing SEL and perhaps a small hammer would pop out of the the headrest whacking the driver in the head to get his attention. ☼ A P0171 code is set by your vehicle's powertrain control module (PCM) when it detects that the air-to-fuel ratio of your vehicle is too lean ... make that "very lean" if this were to be what happened.

@@SurferJoe46 Thank you for your response. I think I've figured it out. I'm thinking it is a small exhaust leak causing the code. I'll find out soon enough. Regardless, thank you for sharing this video. It makes a lot of sense and is something I would have never known had you not shared it. My Trailblazer is not drawing a vacuum at the dipstick so it will be getting your Berrman's treatment some day soon. But first, this Check Engine Light.

What did it wind up being?

@@altarwork My Trailblazer did not like the new MAF sensor I had put in it. Or it was defective. Or it just took some time for the ECU to figure things out after I fixed all of the leaks on the intake side. Honestly, I’m not really sure. The fuel trims were very high. After running multiple times with the old MAF in it the trims finally settled down to be within the ECUs tolerance. Then it stopped throwing the code. I haven’t tried putting the new MAF sensor back in. I’d bet it works now. I think the ECU just took some time to figure things out.

You have to warm up the engine, fill up the tube and connect the tube and let it sit for 30 min. Turn over the engine and let it warm up again and do it again. I did mine four times and then it worked great the first time. If it still doesn't work then check your throttle body, air sensor map, and clutch position sensor.

Most carb cleaners are not as aggressive as B12. It may take more 1. cleaner, 2. patience, 3. money t get the same results. It can't help --- but if it will help enuff --- I got nuttin'.

I have part numbers if you want them. Can buy online.

Sorry I just noticed this question .... and no ... I haven't measured the hose. Strange that it got hard; PCV, KV, CV, et al hoses are usually made out of better than just heater hoses. If I were to make a guess, the dimension would be in 32nds of an inch with an uneven number on top .... 11/32 or 21/32 or something like that ... to differentiate emission hose from coolant or fuel hose. That's always been an industry-wide standard for LEGAL factory vapor hoses on engines for a long time. Another interesting thing is that those hoses also had a green stripe running on them to make it obvious it was a crankcase vent hose of some kind ... this may not still be an identifying mark though as I don't remember seeing it here.

@@SurferJoe46 thank you, the top of the positive crank ventilation hose. Is cracked and mine doesnt even have the clamp on it. I ordered a new hose for both sides. And different size clamp set. Also a long pipe cleaner. I'll try doing this. But nothing has helped so far. My idle is still dropping. Idk what it could be besides a leak now. I'm gonna probably have to go get it smoke tested

I just ordered both hoses off rock auto... They are really good about sending vehicle specific parts.

@@paulhawkins1460 I found them on amazon, I got the right one but the positive side is so hard to take clamp off. I just put a clamp on the old hose on the top part to make sure there's no air getting in. Until I have a day to mess around with it. I need to get a little baby pair of pliers or small needle noses

Yup. It's best if you pour the B-12 into a hot engine --- the vapors are great cleaners!

@@SurferJoe46 ok because I have no suction in the dipstick an no milkshake in the filler cap. But the truck only smokes if idle for a short time like a drive thru

@@bikerboyvideos6147 describe the smoke for me 1) fluffy white smoke that disappears in a few moments or gently drifts away .......................... 2) heavy kinda-blue-ish smoke that smells sweet and lingers for a long time and will blow out a bigger cloud if you rev the engine 3) an acrid - eye-watering smoke that can make you cough and hurts you lungs -- the smell is nasty and sharp. Take your pick 1 or 2 or 3.

@@SurferJoe46 2 but smells like oil. As long as you driving it doesn't smoke but if you idle for a few mins here comes the smoke

@@bikerboyvideos6147 I'm out on a limb here as I am not 100% sure of the valve stem sealing type in our engines - yet. Oil an leak into the combustion chamber(s) on an idling engine, going down through the valve guides - and then when you hit the throttle, it willl smoke somewhat heavily for a few moments. How's the oil consumption? BTW ---> I do not suspect an oil over filled situation here.

That oil is from the PCV system not working up to standards. If it is working, the flow will never enter the plenum or throttle body butterfly. There should ONLY be cleaned air - after the air filter - going through the throttle body - nothing else.

For the system to work correctly, reconnect the "s" hose and service the BIG HOSE side of it with the B-12 treatment a few times. EVENTUALLY it'll clean out at least some, anyway! Your "mechanic" has no understanding of the way it works, that's why he disconnected it. PRESSURE in the PCV system is a clue as to the same pressure in the crankcase. It's all related and the problem is that the PCV CV-side of the system has been unserviced for a long time. YOUR job is to now get it working - at least a little bit - as every treatment of B-12 will improve it until all 6 ports are pulling a vacuum in the crankcase.

@@SurferJoe46 OK thanks for the response Joe. How did you pour the B12 into the crankcase port? Did you just use a funnel? One person on the forum mentioned attaching a 1/2 inch heater hose that is 2 feet long and then putting the funnel into that hose - to pour the B12 into the port. Is it necessary? Or do I need a special type of funnel? Yesterday I put a boroscope into the air silencer box and I did see some oil streaks. So then I sprayed in acetone and let it sit and then power washed water into the air box - but seriously barely any oil came out air box. I did that twice and there was next to no oil coming out of the air box. So I have done oil changes at 3K for the TB for pretty much the whole 257K miles. I think I went to 5K once or twice. So I'm really not sure if that PVC port ever clogged up. So you're saying that there's no risk - that the B12 at a capful at a time will be fine into the crankcase intake channels even if it's not clogged up? .. That "port" goes into some kind of intake channels that then go into the crankcase? I just got the new L "dirty hose" PVC part that is flexible. It's difficult to SEE the negative pressure crankcase port and the upper intake manifold nipple - I got hose pliers to take off the old hose. I used a boroscope - so I could see the "spring clamp" on the bottom of the hose at the crankcase port connection. I didn't ask any mechanic to do this - but maybe I should. Did you use the Liesle Hose Removal Pliers? It seems like those would not fit into that space. I ordered those just in case they might help. People talked about the old PVC hose being brittle and baked on. I just want to make sure I can get the NEW PVC "L dirty" negative vacuum hose back on since obviously it's required to run the engine - for the proper negative pressure, etc. before i take off the old one. Yeah I actually need to get the B12 still - my car is now vibrating from new rear coil springs and struts - so I need the wheels balanced and an alignment - that is scheduled for Wednesday. I'm trying not to drive till then just to make sure I don't damage the CV joints - because the new rear coil springs raised my TB up two more inches. I have a 9 inch ground clearance now.

None of them have a PCV-valve. There is no actual part you can change. Oil in the box means you're collecting water in the engine - in the crankcase and it will destroy the VVT actuator and can destroy the cam and/or cam followers, not to mention the rod and main bearings. Failure to keep the PCV system that this engine DOES have - is dangerous to a lot of things inside the engine that should never see condensed water. You should never have to clean that throttle body from oil - all that is SUPPOSED to go through the throttle body is filtered air.

@@SurferJoe46 Then what you fix to stop it?

@@fernesal Did you even watch the video? I tell how to service it and what to expect when its operating correctly.

@@SurferJoe46 I understand better when written. It's hard to catch different accents. I'm sorry.

@@fernesal Not immediately --- it takes repetitive applications to finally get it to working better each time. You MAY see results immediately (don't count on it) --- but if you persevere, you'll get it eventually.

Sorry to be so late in responding, but I just caught this and as a matter of fact, this engine has NO EGR system - and that's because of the exhaust cam being variable and can keep the combustion chamber(s) from exceeding stoichiometric values.

@@SurferJoe46 /ˌstoikēōˈmetrik/ relating to or denoting quantities of reactants in simple integral ratios, as prescribed by an equation or formula. "a stoichiometric amount of potassium is required for 90% removal of the SO" wow - fancy word - thanks

The air box (correctly called the "sound deadener chamber") getting baby poop in it is because your CV-side of the system is totally plugged up and is reverse flowing. The flow is INTO the nipple - that goes INTO the valve cover and INTO the crankcase and INTO the vacuum side of the PCV system (the CV-side) and is burned up as fuel. It's originally designed as an economy device but they found out it was sure nice to eat the sump gas fumes that smelled amazingly like an open sewer. . You have to take that rubber hose off at the plenum and add a couple of capsfull of B12 into it and let it cook a while. Repeat often until you get a small but noticeable vacuum at the oil filler cap. If you're removing the whole intake plenum and runners, you will have better access to the ports and you can clean them a lot better when they are in the open.

@@SurferJoe46 got it! I recently replaced my valve cover so I took the intake off anyways and cleaned that hose you’re talking about. I also installed an oil catch can at the nipple and sound deadened chamber and it’s already filtering crap.

@@TheCodesterr That's all well-n-good, but you're not getting the water out of your engine. You need to get that PCV System flow working, not just catching the bad results. The problem is not being addressed the way you've done it and you run the risk of rusting the VVT intro a seized-locked position. Many people keep having trouble with the VVT and the PCV is the cause. You've gotta fix the problem! You can watch this guy - it's not EXACTLY your situation - but the results and the logic are the same ..ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PDkCbJOV-28.html

@@TheCodesterr yes my S hose is disconnected at the nipple and oil has sprayed out around there - so either I disconnected it when taking out the throttle body - I don't think so - or a mechanic did it to "bypass" this problem of the positive pressure spray back. Crazy - and I've been driving this way for how long? !! So you're saying that now water condensation can get into the engine via that nipple? OH I get - because there's no longer NEGATIVE PRESSURE then water vapor is not getting OUT of the engine. Yeah.

@@TheCodesterr The hose is only a pathway to the problem --- which is in the head gasket area. Taking the intake off will not allow access to the actual ports that are considered as the major players of the passive PCV system. When we pour B-12 in either the tube or the nipple - it goes to the same place to soften up and eventually allow the crud and corruption to be sucked out of those passageways. When they are clean, the PCV will be able to work and there will be NO baby poop in the air intake system at all. None. Nada!

I'm sure you needed to say that. Feel better now?

That's right. There IS NO PC Valve. That's the whole point of this video ... it doesn't exist so you have to treat the system somewhat differently.

Correct. It doesn't.

The only thing you can do short of removing the head is to clean, clean and clean some more with the B-12 to soften up and let the gunk get sucked into the hellish fire of the combustion chamber. Use the B-12 as many times as you feel or desire - just remember that there's not "complete cure" to the systems if they've been ignored for years. You can clean it - mostly, not 100%.

I THINK I understand your comment --- but do you want ME to provide something more tangible? "Filtering" the vapors isn't a problem --- it's not even wanted because that's not even a good idea and it just adds another layer of responsibility that owners can ignore too. I honestly DO appreciate your comment and if you can give me a little more help in understanding your concern --- please re-post it here.

A viewable pvc filter could stop could stop the damage you described, and yes it might be neglected but even oil gets neglected but if you’re wondering what’s wrong with it any look and see the filter has oil in it you know there’s a problem there picking any type of debris that shouldn’t be

@@redxband1994 Aha! I see where you're at --- and I don't agree in theory although your intentions are good. What I THINK you want is something like the old bowtie KV fibrous strand filter in the air cleaner. That system is rather antique and there's the disposal of it when it gets full --- something a Federally regulated vehicle is not allowed to generate any more. So since motor vehicles are ascribed to become cleaner and less polluting every new model year, a system that can maintains itself with scheduled oil changes and regular services is where things are going and the designers are told to keep the DIYer out of the control systems other than a steering wheel, a throttle and a brake.

@@SurferJoe46 exactly it could be one more thing to charge a customer to change but how big of a problem is oil in the pcv system . So why not a filter on the crank case vent ,I also have some questions I own a trailblazer 04 and having problems with idle

@@redxband1994 You keep saying "pcv system" and you've got to understand that any oil in the KV side is the indicator that the CV-side is not working and I don't see where the option to install a filter on the CV side is possible nor even feasible. The KV side won't improve with a filter because there's never supposed to be any oil in it --- never. IF oil is flowing through the KV side and into the air/plenum of the intake - the system is running backwards which indicates a failure of the crankcase to be correctly cleaned and that's the problem. Water collects in the engine and that's damaging and destroys the oils properties and the purpose of even having oil in the crankcase. Polluted oil - contaminated with water is - on all levels - destructive. Filter or not - and there's no way to filter the crankcase emissions because they would render any filter as plugged and useless in a few miles. You'd have to run alongside the vehicle changing filters as it went down the road.

I am glad you got it all together.

you have to read all the comments to figure it out. Here you go: The air box (correctly called the "sound deadener chamber") getting baby poop in it is because your CV-side of the system is totally plugged up and is reverse flowing.The flow is INTO the nipple - that goes INTO the valve cover and INTO the crankcase and INTO the vacuum side of the PCV system (the CV-side) and is burned up as fuel. It's originally designed as an economy device but they found out it was sure nice to eat the sump gas fumes that smelled amazingly like an open sewer. . remove the lower hose clamp and pull the hose up and open the metal tube. You want to get the B12 into the tube the actual problem is further down inside that metal tube. The liquid is going into the intake and won't contaminate the oil in the engine. It's a totally different system. Persistence is the answer and it will get better and better with every application. You've gotta keep at it until you think it's really clean - evidenced by the vacuum at the oil filer when you put your hand over it while the engine's running. You just have to get the B12 into that circuit - it'll run down and soften the deposits. The problem is not being addressed the way you've done it and you run the risk of rusting the VVT intro a seized-locked position. Many people keep having trouble with the VVT and the PCV is the cause. Just to make sure the sequence to do this should be.1- car off (preferably warm), 2-take hose off metal tube.3-pour cap in4- put hose back on5 start vehicle and run6 repeat from step one a few times? Still - it's best to turn the engine off and pour the B12 in and just slip the hose back on without the clamp if you want to do this a few times, trying to get a better dose into the system. I used my compressor with a long tipped blower nozzle to force a lot of air into the lower portion of the system --- the metal part --- and just blew through the clogged up gunk --- but it takes a little effort after pre-softening the crud with the B12. >> Put the clamp back on before you decide to drive away though .... OK?

SEe his other vid for more details - it is ultimately controlled by a sized-metered orifice on the valve cover, which INHALES clean air after the air cleaner, then allowing it to travel into the crankcase area of the engine block, sweeping away any blowby and byproducts of combustion - the worst of which is moisture in the form of condensate from the fuel combustion and the atmosphere. The crankcase must remain in a negative pressure condition - a vacuum if you will ... at all times. If oil/condensate rises from the valve cover nipple, then the suction side of the system is plugged up and is not operating to specs. This emulsion will travel into the throttle body, contaminating it and then it requires repeated cleanings to make it operate correctly. The CV side can be serviced though - even though it cannot be removed to access any way to actually clean it in your hands. We can chemically clean it - often in repeated treatments if the system has not been or has never been cleaned. This video shows how to service the CV side and that should take care of the KV side too - since the KV side is really easy to access and poke a thin wire through the small-ish hole that serves as the limiter to how much air the system can 'inhale'. PS --- don't use any hose clamps on the s-shaped hose. It has to have the ability to blow off it pressure gets too great .... which is should never. Besides, the valve cover gasket will fail and fill up the spark plug tubes with oil if the pressure gets too high - long before anything actually overrides the capacity of the air flow.

But I DID show where the PCV is --- it's nowhere! The "V" part of PCV implicates that there's a valve somewhere in this labrynth system --- there is NOT. It's just ports that never change dimensions nor flow capacities unless they are clogged up with gunk. When they are clogged up --- baby poop happens. YOU may not care --- but many do as I took a soft approach to a complicated and unreliable system that is rife with problems IF one does not keep it all clean. My post is REPAIR-ITIVE, not a Maintenance Instruction. If you came here --- obviously --- yours isn't working.