*PLEASE NOTE:* This Module can causes a lot of Headaches !!! If your Car / Truck Over Heat or in Hot / Warm Weather and your Car / Truck dies during driving.... It might be as simple as this Module...... QUICK TEST !!! If your Car / Truck dies during driving.... Wait 15-30 minutes or take an Ice Cube, put it over this Module and COOL it for 2 Minutes. If your Car / Truck starts again, then you know your ICM needs New Thermal Paste or Replacement !!! *UPDATE - December 2019:* I also found out recently... My Dad's Truck would Shut Down when " hot ". Come to find out it's the Wire (Spark Plug Wire ) that from the Ignition Coil, like in the Video to the Distributor Cap. That Wire was BAD :((((... When Engine gets HOT... It shutdown on the road / highway. I replace the Wire + Spark Plugs Wires... It's doing great now!
@@josejuarez2452 - Sorry I didn't get an Alert from you :((( - Ignition Coil shouldn't be " Blinking ". If they are " Bad ", they do sparks and maybe that is what you talking about?
@C-Note - I also found out recently... My Dad's Truck would Shut Down when " hot ". Come to find out it's the Wire (Spark Plug Wire ) that from the Ignition Coil, like in the Video to the Distributor Cap. That Wire was BAD :((((... When Engine gets HOT... It shutdown on the road / highway. I replace the Wire + Spark Plugs Wires... It's doing great now!
You are lucky! I bought 2 of them and they BOTH bad :(. I also read a lot of posts too, they have the same issues. Imagine, Electronic Modules " supposed " to be the same right?
@@JodBronson I actually had to go buy another ICM from the auto store. The cheap on ebay fried after 1 day. All is good now several days later. Dont buy the cheap ones
@@richardrice8227 - Yea, I mentioned that in the Video. I said to buy OEM instead, because I bought 2 of them and BOTH did not work! Plus OEM last a long time too. Somethings can be bought " Off Market Brand "... In this case, I found it OEM is better!
@@richardrice8227 - Ah ok. I clean mine and it seems to be fine. You will NEVER expect this..... In the end of it all.... It was the " WIRE " that is from the " Ignition Coil " to the " Hub Cap " that was the culprit. After I replaced that Wire (Forgot what it's the Term for it), the Car / Truck is doing fine since.
I have a 2000 blazer 4.3. Once its running I have no issues. The problem is that there are days when it just wont start. It cranks till the battery dies, then the following day It will start and run perfect. Is this a sign that the ignition coil is going bad. Ive replaced all the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor and plug wires. Whats your thoughts?
Easiest way to tell. Next time, if it dies on you. Put ICE or if you have Air Duster (Computer Cleaner Spray), just spray directly on the ICM. Restart the Engine, if it starts, that is your culprit! EASY right?
@@LucaBrasi231 - I only find the ICM dies when "hot", that is what I've covered in this video. Your problem may not be the case, like in this video. If your Car/Truck doesn't start...., it could be several things. #1. Try to hear the Fuel Pump, by turn on ignition and listen for fuel pump. #2. Open your Air Intake, spray some Starter Spray in there. #3. Start your Engine, if the Engine Start, you have Fuel Pump - Fuel Pump intermitting problems. #4. If that is the case, you would need to see if your Fuel have enough pressure. #5. If not enough pressure, it's your Fuel Pump. NOTE: Check your Spark Plugs to see if you have Sparks. Remove JUST ONE out and see if you see Sparks. You can do quick elimination that way.
@@LucaBrasi231 - You are welcome. BTW... Check your Fuel Relay first. Take the Air Conditioner Relay out. Put the Air Conditioner Relay in the Fuel Relay's place and see. Try that and see, worth a shot !!!
@@paulagarlington1825 - Go to AutoZone or Advanced Auto or Auto Store and ask for Thermal Paste. They have them in a small package for $1.99 at the front counter.
Thank you for the film. Pls could't you tell where is the Ignition Control Module is located on 2001 Saturn SL2. Also I removed one on 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier and there is some red stuff on the small mounting bolts for that module. Could it be the red thread locker?
The ICM is located in the Front Driver Side of the Car. Follow the Spark Plug Wires..... They ALL goes to the ICM. The Bolts.... Red "HARD" stuff = Thread Lock. ICM Video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OAvOyUcA5w0.html
@@JodBronson Thank you for the replay. I recently changed the spark wires, so I'll look in that area. That reddish stuff was orange thread locker (I did some research, and looks like it is an orange, also red is too strong). Now the problem is that on my ICM there was a blob of some grease in one corner of the coil pack, below the ICM . In Chevrolet Cavalier there is a cavity in the coil pack where you install the box of ICM. I removed it for cleaning and thought that grease is not supposed to be there, thought something was leaking, wiped it out. Now I think maybe it was there to absorb some heat. But what grease was it? There was nothing on the back of the ICM, on the metallic plate, but connectors were greasy. The new part on Amazon ACDelco 19300922 GM Original Equipment Ignition Control Module comes with a pack of grease, no name on it. It says to put it on the connectors in car harness, but what to put on the back of the plate. Maybe in that car you don't put anything on the ICM? Very confusing. Thank you again.
@@olenaerhardt7725 - Watch the video..... I talked about there is something called " Thermos Grease ". Watch the video as I explain it !!! YOU DID NOT WATCH THE VIDEO HUH?????
@@JodBronson Thank you for the replay. See my ICM is different, bcs it doesn't contact another plate, like in your film, it is located above the empty coil compartment with an elongated sink filled with yellowish crystallized substance. Engine is Eco Tec 2.2.
@@JodBronson Ok an do i need to put paste on the back of the HEATSINK PLATE too? Or JUST put paste on the back of ICM itself? Or is it better to put paste on BOTH?
@@JodBronson Ok i just put a new GENERIC icm on I used ARTIC MX-4 THERMAL COMPOUND I put a thick layer on TWO places 1. On the back of the ICM 2. On the back of the HEATSINK Cars running good now Now let's just hope God doesn't get mad at me again....
Thermal compound is important. What it does is fills the air gaps to make 100% contact of both pieces of metal. Without it you could loose 20% of efficiency.
@@keylowpie7082 - No, in time it will leak/melt. At Auto-zone they sell small Thermal Compound or Dielectric Grease for the same price at the front counter. Just buy Thermal Compound and call it the day.
I had a crank no start. No codes. Drove me nuts for 4 days. It was a bad icm. No spark from coil if that part is no good. I did notice a white spot on coil wire & grounding on a bracket on engine. This I believe caused the problem .
Buying cheap isn’t always the answer either spend the money and save yourself the headache in the long run by buying a quality product and lifetime warranty
@@JodBronson It is the wire connector that I am concerned with. The connecting male pin inside that coils hollow shaft area is very small compared to the connector that goes on a regular spark plug or coil connection.
is there possible my engine easily started but after 1 mnt or 30 to 50 sec thhis coil stoped the engine i means cutoff the current to distributor??????
I also found out recently... My Dad's Truck would Shut Down when " hot ". Come to find out it's the Wire (Spark Plug Wire ) that from the Ignition Coil, like in the Video to the Distributor Cap. That Wire was BAD :((((... When Engine gets HOT... It shutdown on the road / highway. I replace the Wire + Spark Plugs Wires... It's doing great now!
I put a new Icm on my car yesterday and ran perfect 24 hours later it’s fried could this be due to not putting grease on the back of the plate I forgot to i had only put it on the back of the icm
It's hard to say, unless you open it up and look inside. Also, YES it could get hot and damaged the regulator inside if you didn't put the Thermal Paste on it. Although it will likely to damaged later and not right away. Other than that, I don't really know the situation and how it was installed. Another possibilities is.... It could be a bad Ignition Coil and it's "straining" too much stress/power and caused a failure.
Jordan Bronson I put a new one with the icm because it had a pin hole in the coil I do run 8.5 mm spark plug wires I have been told that if the coil doesn’t have enough resistance that it’s possible it could ruin the icm but like I said I did forget to grease the back of the plate I had only put it on the icm and the front of the plate. I checked for resistance and voltage it’s there but not real sure on the spec. I will be returning the one I got yesterday for a new one
Jeremy Flowers it ended up being my optispark distributor cap was cracked so it was getting moisture in it I couldn’t see it due to the water pump hovering over it
Easiest way to tell. Next time, if it dies on you. Put ICE or if you have Air Duster (Computer Cleaner Spray), just spray directly on the ICM. Restart the Engine, if it starts, that is your culprit! EASY right?
Also check the Distributor Ignition Module. It's in/under the Distributor Rod/Cap itself. Also you can get the whole thing for about $45.00, if you search around.
@@DaTechn9cian - I know it well. I too have had many issues due to BAD Parts. Even when you think it's new.... it's bad :(. See this Thread here.... There are some good things you can go through to help you further.... Here: www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t14363_ds702789
I have a GMC Safari 97, I wanted to replace my ignition coil so I ordered it and when I took it off I realized the damn I.C.M. is attached to the same bracket the coil is on, part I ordered is only the coil, threads and nuts. no bracket. I have yet to find the right part to order
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0351 stands for “Ignition Coil 'A' Primary/Secondary Circuit.” It indicates that there's a potential problem with the cylinder #1 ignition coil or its circuit. ... There, the voltage multiplies and the ignition coil produces enough voltage to fire the spark plug.
@@JodBronson I have the code po351 also on a vortec 4.3. Did complete tune up twice thinking they were defect parts but still have a misfire in cyl 5 and 6. Changed coil not module. would a module cause a multiple misfire. I also changed the spider injectors.
@@boxerfan2 - It could be the Cam Shaft Position Sensor..... NOTE: It's cheap on eBay. Check this video out.... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TEuzGJKExks.html
@@boxerfan2 - Compare prices too... Sometimes it would be best to replace the whole thing.... Look CHEAP here: swperformanceparts.com/product/hei671bk/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA8dH-BRD_ARIsAC24umbsGMceiQCivqXN0ZrVYWgL2opyRz6Ca1VbfHf11-NKbEvl5dZHoboaAk5_EALw_wcB
Silicone is one of the worst pastes to transfer heat, literally, it's the best insulator, I don't understand why they call it "Silicone" and "Thermal transfer" because it's like calling "water" "dry"
Well, it's NOT your regular " Silicone " at your Home Depot or Lowes. In this case, it's " Silicone Thermal Paste ". The word " THERMAL " should alert a " person " that is NOT regular Silicone. LMFAO
@@keylowpie7082 - If you do not have Thermal Paste, it will work! Although not 100%, but it will work! NOTE: They do sell Thermal Paste in a small package.... Like $1.99 at AutoZone. I would use that if they have it, but they have it almost 99% of the time at the front counter!
There are 2 Types of Voices and 2 Types of People in this World. 1 - Constructive Criticism (Normal People) 2 - Constructive Isn't (N!ggas don't like it) LMFAO 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Reminder... just put a thin layer of the thermal compound, adding too much will act somewhat of an insulator, meaning it will be less effective at transfering heat.
It will squeeze or ooze-out when you tighten the screws anyway. I like to note: Silicone Heat transferring is not the same as "other" heat transferring properties.
Follow the Wire from your Ignition Control Module (ICM). There should be 3 Prong Plug. From the ECM, it's only ONE " High Energy Spark " Wire go to Distributor Cap.
@@percussion4U - *UPDATE - December 2019:* I also found out recently... My Dad's Truck would Shut Down when " hot ". Come to find out it's the Wire (Spark Plug Wire ) that from the Ignition Coil, like in the Video to the Distributor Cap. That Wire was BAD :((((... When Engine gets HOT... It shutdown on the road / highway. I replace the Wire + Spark Plugs Wires... It's doing great now!
Good observations! Just regular cooking mixing with radiations. This video was way before I discover " Radiation " was making me choke and cough. When heats get to a certain temperature, it chokes the hell out of me. I am now a lot better, through my journey, I discovered something that take the Positive Radiation and leave the Negative Ions.... If you want to see that Video.... Follow the Link below... *NOTE:* This will help with COVID-19 Patient, YES... It's my ultimate discovery.... I just wished someone contact me and I can help those People breathe better in the Hospital. LINK: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yMaR5upGz4o.html
Connect your multimeter to the positive terminal or pin of your coil, and to the high output terminal that goes to the spark plug. Most ignition coils should have a secondary resistance falling somewhere between 6,000 to 10,000 ohms.
