Go Kart 150 Basic Wiring Harness How To 

I'm happy the video helped you! By curiosity, how long did it take you to build your harness with the help of the video?

@@maximumparts I didn't do it all at once, definitely took some time. Probably somewhere between 6-8 hours, but I'm not a pro. Someone who's experienced working with atv's, motocross or go-karts should be able to do it in less time. I have some understanding of what I'm doing, but mostly I'm just a dad who's not afraid to try to fix things, especially the go-kart because my kids love it.

Happy it will help. Some parts are a little bit different on the Gio 250 but the principal is the same. If you have experience in electrical and mechanic, you should be able to get it done. One wire at the time and you will get it. It will take time but you should get it.

Again, thank you for video and clear explanation of what's going where. Using your video for knowing now what plugs into what and where and measuring the resistance of each wire so far is working great and getting closer one wire at a time😁

@@maximumparts I really want to order your wire harness but I cannot find it on your website

@@maddgamingstudios4859 Sorry, I don't. The problem is every wiring harness are different. So any wiring harness you will buy will need to be modify unless it is specific for your machine. The only thing I have is the wire and connectors to help you rebuild. This is the link for the wire: gokart.maximum.parts/catalogsearch/result/?q=wire and this is the link for the connectors: gokart.maximum.parts/catalogsearch/result/?q=connector

Glad it helped. Now that it's fixed, is there anything in the video I could of make better and easier for people to understand?

Okay so the eng has no spark and the starter will not turn the motor but the starter works it turned the motor over a few times and stop spinning the motor . So what I am going to do is put a 212 cc with a torque converter 30 S . So what I will be doing is Flipping the axel and welding a new plate to the Frame .

Thanks. The key switch is a common problem for many people. This is why I spent more time on it. The point is to help as many peoples as possible.

hi, did the DC , dct work ? thanks

Thanks, happy it help. I don't have any 5 wires ignition switch machine. I do have some 5 wires switch, from what I see there's 2 types. 1- When you turn the switch off, it stop the CDI if you have an AC CDI, 2 of the wires short the CDI signal. 2- When the machine run they use 2 wires of the switch to give more power, they use the wire coming out of the regulator + 12 volts and give more power to your circuit. The 3 basic wires I have on my video are also on those 2 switches.

Did you ever make the video for the lights?

Thanks. The plan is to go through the entire electrical system and show people how to connect it. Also, make videos on troubleshooting and test everything. Split things in-group like the charging system, CDI, and every component. Yes, the stator will be part of it.

Happy it help. What about next time you buy your parts from my store, gokart.maximum.parts/ I did the video as I received a lots of emails about the wiring. It was easier to make the video than answer all emails. Now, I can send the link when people need help. :)

He literally made the harness. Are you dumb

Anyone know ??

This is why it's only a Basic Wiring, it is meant to help people start the machine first. Soon the machine is running, the rest can be added after. Specially in your case with a beat up machine.

Thanks. The fuse is a 10 amps. The battery is also 10 amps. The fuse is mainly there for a short, it will not protect for specific components. Keep a spare one with you when you are out, the fuse do not blow often but it seem to happen when you are out in middle of nowhere. :)

@@maximumparts awesome, thank you! I'll be ordering some of the resettable fuses I've seen online, so having a spare shouldn't be an issue. I have a 5-pin single phase regulator, would I be right in thinking that the additional wire is a signal wire? I believe I can run it without the 5th wire connected, but would I be right in thinking it should be wired to the ACC output on the ignition switch? :)

Don't know about the 5 wires, there's so many of them that it is hard to keep track of the wiring. Send us an email, there's a contact form on our website and we will check. It could be 2 things at least, 3 wires for the AC and 2 for the DC output or 2 wires for AC and 3 for the DC. It all depend on the regulator itself.

Do I connect directly to the battery

Do I connect directly to the battery to charge

@MARY LOU AVILA take the red wire out of the regulator and plug it on the ignition switch wire and one side of the fuse. The other side of the fuse goes to the battery.

Basically, it is the same, so yes, it will work. In my case, I used a resistor that the case of the resistor is grounded; this will become an issue if the case touches the ground, and I'm using it on the positive side. If you do have a resistor with the 2 leads coming off the top, it will work 100%.

No they came that way..i have 2 single seater 150cc buggies

Change the stator. You need to find why the stator goes bad. Might be because you have a short somewhere or you are using more power than the stator can produce with high power lights or something like that.

I can't find an accurate electrical plan for this machine. Make it harder to re wire the machine. You will have to check every wires, what they do and make your own plan.

Thanks. If you did exactly the same and you have all the same components we use, this is the only thing left. You have a bad spark plug, CDI or ignition coil. Soon one of them is bad, you won't have spark anymore. This is the 3 most common one. The last thing and less common will be the pick up coil. Unfortunately, we didn't do the troubleshooting video yet but will do eventually. Subscribe and you will be notify when we will put new video on RU-vid. This is the basic video on how to connect everything, there's more to it and we will also split them by section to make it easier for people.

Thanks. I will not give you the full answer but will give you the step to get it done. I assume you have all the same parts other than the CDI. 1. Find the diagram for a GY6 150 AC CDI and also the GY6 150 DC CDI. I think there's 1 or 2 differences. 2. Identify the wiring difference between the 2 CDI. The wires that are at the same place, put them first. That will eliminate some wires and make it easier to continue. 3. In the video, I say I have a Red-Black wire from the stator but we don't use it. In your case you want to use it. This is the AC wire that will plug to the CDI. Chech the AC CDI plan again and plug that wire to the right place. 4. In the video I have a wire coming from the Ignition Switch Accessories going to the +12 volts of the CDI. In your case, you DO NOT plug this wire. If you do, it will short the electrical and cause damage. This is a add on if you want to understand a bit more. On a DC CDI, when you turn the key to accessories it supply +12 volts to the CDI and charge the Capacitor inside to get the spark ready. On an AC CDI, as you turn the key, the stator will supply voltage and charge the Capacitor and same thing again, will get the spark ready. An AC CDI is usually a little bit harder to start when the temperature outside is cold. An AC CDI have a rev limiter. A DC CDI will start easier as it's charge directly from the 12 voltds from the battery. A DC CDI do not have a rev limiter. Well the one I sell for sure. Post the info when you will get it to start as it might help other people down the road that will re read this comment. As for the dumb part, I don't think you are, I think you never did it before and you are a little bit worry. Go slow and take your time, 1 wire at the time and you will get it. If you need more info, let me know.

Genius!

If you only change the CDI parts of it, yes all the rest is the same. Check for the wiring diagram for an AC CDI and check the difference. Would have to check and test it first to give you an answer.

LOL. Hope it work for you, knock on wood.

@@maximumparts thanks. I will try to check my wires in the morning. I been having to jump the solenoid to start it. It's a yerf dog 150 gy6

Try to follow the video, if you have any questions, send us an email on the contact form on our website. We will do our best to get your machine working. The troubleshooting video will come later. We've been busy shipping parts and didn't have time to do more videos.

@@maximumparts 👍

I'm keeping up with this now as well I just got one and have replaced everything and it only sparks when I let off key

One side of the resistor connect to ground, the other side connect to the enricher. The other side of the enricher connect to the yellow wire from the stator. The enricher is one the carburetor, it give you more gas when you start the machine. This is the opposite of a choke. As the engine warm up it close a needle / entry of gas. I have doubt this is your problem. The engine will start for a minute or so before you have problem. As the engine warm up you will have too much gas coming in and the engine will die or be hard to run. Did you check the spark like I do in the video? You can follow the video, in my case I plug wires and test. In your case, you need to find the wire and test it. You need 3 things to start an engine, spark, fuel and air. Soon you have all 3 it will start. Go by elimination. As for buying a wiring harness, you will have the same problem is the wiring harness is not compatible at 100% with your machine. You will have to make it work ...

The red wire goes to the battery, this is why you always have power. As for the 5 wires switch, I plan on making a video only on ignition switch and show the difference between them.

Correct but when you turn switch off you had no power on red or white I still have power on red

@@traviswelch7876 yea if you ran a power wire from starter relay to ignition switch it would always have power because that's directly from the positive side of battery. so im wandering how he didn't have power as well

@@DWM_RL @Travis Welch Sorry for the delay, I never saw your answer. RU-vid only notify me when you put the full @myname. The red bring the power form the battery, always, no matter what you do with the switch. When the switch is at the off position, the red wire still have power but do not supply it to any other wires on the switch. The white wire have power when the switch is at accessories and the start position. The Green wire from the switch only have power when the switch is at the start position. The reason is because you only want power to the solenoid when you are at the start position otherwise the starter would keep spinning even when the engine is running. Not too good for the starter, you would burn it. The CDI is connected to the white because you want power at 2 step (accessories and start position), when you are at the start position, otherwise your CDI would not have power at the start position and your engine would not start. The Red is the source of power and it is use to redirect the power when you turn the key. If the Red didn't always have power, it would not matter where you turn the key, you would never have power no where.

@@DWM_RL Ok, I re read what you say and I think I figure out what confuse you. I think you talk about the 2 bolts on the top. When the starter relay engage, the big wire connect the 2 bolts together. When you remove it from the start position, you disconnect one side of it, the side where the starter is but the other bolts still have power because it is connect directly to the battery. In other words, I create a Y to split the voltage between the starter relay and also the ignition switch. This side always have power this is why I use it. I could also connect the big wire to the battery and start another one from the battery and it would give me the exact same result.

2 small wires come out of he Starter solenoid, Yellow/Red that does a loop to the Brake switch and the resistor, then back to the BIG POST with the 12v lead from the battery. There is also a Green/Yellow wire that goes to a block connector and becomes Yellow/Green and that goes up to the Ignition Switch. This wire has no power.

In the video I made, there is no push button. In my case it's the start position on the switch that start the engine. In your case, your switch should only get one position to power everything. The start button should be connect at the power on of the switch and instead of turning the key to the last position, you will push the start button. It is the same principal.

First you should keep the proper fuse there. If you put a bigger one like you did, you will burn the wires or components. The fuse is there for a reason, burn when something goes wrong, like you have now. You probably have a short somewhere and this is why the fuse burn. Take a multimeter and test things like I do in the video and you will find the problem.

You should have 12 volts on the red wire. If you don't, it mean you have a bad wire between the battery and the ignition switch. If the red wire have 12 volts. When you turn the key to the first position, you should have 12 volts on one more wire. When you turn the key to the start position, you should have 12 volts on any wire. If you do not have any power coming out the switch, it mean your switch is bad.

Thanks 👍

Thanks, took note for the AC CDI.

Your headlights are connected to the brake switch. When you push the brake, there's a pressure switch that close the connection and your brake light turn on. The only way your headlight turn on when you brake, it's because the power is coming from the brake switch. The headlight should be connected to the accessories of the ignition switch.

This is a hard one to answer. Check with a multimeter. Can be a short somewhere, a bad ignition switch.

@@maximumparts ok so with it running and unplug the solenoid both the wires shouldn’t have anything?

You should only have power to the solenoid when the ignition switch is at the start position. If you are on the first click / accessories, you should not have power to the solenoid. The solenoid is only use to trigger the starter. Soon the engine is started, you don't need the starter to spin anymore.

@@maximumparts ok I will check those wires. I do just have a click in the back when I turn the key. I do also know that both the plug wires get hot. After I unplug it it’s fine

red cable to positive, black to negative

You can follow this video and your Yerfdog will work. Double check which CDI you have on your machine first, AC or DC. The one I use in the video is DC. For the parts, you can check gokart.maximum.parts/ If you have any questions on the parts send us an email on the contact form and we will answer you.

It is only use if you have a AC CDI.

@ joey mtnjunkie puig Thanks, I am trying to get more videos done. Good thing you subscribe, you might like what's coming soon.

Where did you get the switch? Did it come with an electrical plan that explain what goes where? This is the link for the ignition switch for a Hammerhead GTS 150: gokart.maximum.parts/hammerhead-150-250-ignition-switch-3-wires.html Why you have to change it for a different one?

This is a kit we have: gokart.maximum.parts/3-phase-rectifier-regulator-stator-11-poles-upgrade-kit.html You can add the wiring harness with it to make it easier to connect everything. You need to change the stator and regulator to make it work. You need both to be compatible.

@Moo2k Check if you brake light become brighter when you push the brake pedal. If not, your machine won't start. the way it work is, on the master cylinder, you have a brake switch with 2 wires, when you push the brake light, the brake light become brighter and it also engage a relay under the dash. When the relay engage, it connect 2 wires together that will let you use the starter relay. If the relay does not engage, there's no power to the starter solenoid and won't start. 1- If you want to test something, you can turn the key to accessories / first click. On the starter relay, there's 2 bolts on the top, if you touch them with a screwdriver or piece of metal, it will engage the starter. Just be careful and wear protective gear to be safe. Electricity can be dangerous. 2- If you bypass the relay under the dash and connect the 2 wires that goes in the back to the solenoid, you won't need to push the brake anymore. The problem is, if the machine is not perfectly tune and the engine rev higher than usual, the machine will start moving. Again, be careful. 3- If you remove the 2 wires from the master cylinder and connect them together, it will act like you push the brake pedal. The down side of it, people behind you will think you always push the brake and can be dangerous again because they won't see the you psh the pedal or not. Bottom line, it is probably when you bleed it. The switch on the master cylinder is touchy. I have similar problem when I bleed my machine and the switch didn't work after. Causing the same problem you have. You might have air between the master cylinder and the switch and it stop working.

The resistor is really important, it regulate the power going thru the enricher on the carburetor.

I didn't because it depend on which CDI you have. You can check with your multimeter for continuity test between the 2 connectors. If you have continuity, mean they are the same and you can plug both. I did have this problem before. I switched the spark plug and everything work. It might just be a bad spark plug. If not, you can check the video on the CDI, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kFsyleMQXMc.html I explain the wires in details. You will also be able to confirm if you have a DC or AC CDI.

​@@maximumparts I definitely have a DC cdi because power comes from the battery and not the stator. When the key is on I am getting 12v to the power pin and I have continuity in the stator pickup coil wire and the ignition coil wire. I've tried 3 cdi boxes now and none of them are producing spark. I've tried 2 ignition coils and nothing. I've tried 4 spark plugs and nothing. I also have a new battery at full charge. I watched your cdi video. It is awesome. Never seen anyone test continuity on the pickup coil by passing the protrusion of the flywheel over the sensor. Very cool! I could not test for kill switch since mine does not have a kill switch wire at the cdi. The power wire to the cdi does come from a power terminal where accessories are served as well as ground. I suppose kill switch is part of that ground terminal somewhere? I don't even know if I have a kill switch. I do see a "kill switch plug" under the dash. It is just a 2 pin plug wire connecting a green/black and a green wire. 🤷‍♂️

@John Prater Seem like the last thing would be a bad ground. If you have a bad ground, you will have power going thru and will work on continuity test BUT will not deliver the full 12 volts. I got that problem also on one of my machine. Just check your ground and you can even put a temporary wire for each ground. As for the test I do, I try to find simple test anyone would be able to do without too much knowledge. One thing I never try is the output of the CDI going to the ignition coil, you should also have power coming out to supply the ignition coil. I don't know if a multimeter will pick that up. I know an oscilloscope would. The kill switch is connect directly on the wire going in the CDI from the Pick up coil. The CDI respond to the pulse. By grounding it, the CDI receive nothing and stop the power coming out to the ignition coil. Check your grounds, that would be the last thing. I would be surprise ALL the parts you have are bad.

@@maximumparts It is indeed the kill switch! For some reason the ground from the ignition coil went into a connection on the ignition which is wired to a kill switch plug. A kind of 2 pin pig tail. I cut the ignition coil ground wire and connected it directly to the engine ground and it fired right up! I can't tell where or how it is bad with it's factory setup... I'd have to open up about 5' of loom from underneath the body and inspect. I suspected this was the issue but couldn't figure out how. Your videos helped where others didn't. Subbed!

It can be many things. Change the spark plug first. As for the regulator, you might have a short somewhere and when you plug it, the short happen. Check the wiring like I show in the video and make sure everything is connected properly. Check your grounds, this is a common problem. If any ground is bad, you will have all kind of problem, including weak spark if the ignition coil is not grounded properly.

@@maximumparts it's 2 grounds so it's much better to ground them together on the engine?

@markymonjaras You have a short somewhere or you are using more power than your machine can produce. This is the 2 main reasons. A short will touch at least 2 wires that are not suppose to touch and will increase the power and this is why the wires come hot. If you installed bigger lights, the same problem will happen, you are asking for more power than the machine can produce and the wires will come hot again. Eventually a part will give up cause of the heat.

Sound like the ignition switch is bad. If there's accessories on the machine like high power lights, it will damage your switch. It can also be the starter relay. But now you say nothing is working anymore, it is unlikely.

@@maximumparts Thanks so much, i’ll keep you updated because i also fount a bad fuze, hopefully that was the reason accesories went bad

Okay, i fixed the fuse , starter cranked in the beginning but i stopped and redid it again, and the cables that comes from the motor was smoking, and now starter isnt engaging. Any tips ?

Change the cable. You have a restriction / bad connection and this is why the cable smoke. You try to push more power to a cable that can't support it and it transform in heat instead. Soon you change the cable for the proper one it will work, unless you damaged something else.

I am using a DC CDI. Both CDI can use a kill switch but yes if you turn the ignition key switch off, the machine will stop. You can add a kill switch to the pick up coil wire, when you push the kill switch, it ground the signal and the CDI will stgop sending the signal to the ignition coil and stop the machine. Well this is if you have the same engine ...

@@maximumparts I have a gy6 150cc QMJ. It's an older model Dazon Raider but the gy6 operates the same as do the electronic components provided your going with DC or AC setup. I was just curious about the CDI as it was not directly specified to be a DC or AC one in the video or I just missed it. This is probably the best most explained DC wiring video on the entire web dude. Good job and keep up the good work! 👍

Thanks. This is a DC setup / CDI.

@Ronald Lawson No. The resistor is only use for the enricher. When the engine will run it will run rich and stall when you push the gas pedal.

@Martyimgay Well it should not be hot. Maybe it's because the solenoid is still engage and the starter is at the same time. It you check the white plug on the solenoid. Soon your machine is started, you should not have power to this plug anymore. If you still see power coming in with a multimeter, it mean something is wrong.

@@maximumparts my solenoid only has 2 wires but what your saying is one wire shouldn’t have power at all after unit is running. Also the starter wouldn’t have power either

@@Martyimgay The solenoid have 1 plug with 2 connectors and 2 botls on the top that send power to the starter. The first thing you have to check is the white plug, when your machine is running, put a multimeter on both wires and you should not have voltage. The next thing would be to check the starter itself, you have one red wire coming on top of the starter, this is the +12 volts and the case of the starter is ground.

@@maximumparts ok I had to u plug my solenoid because it’s buzzing when cart is running. I checked it and it has power on 1 side with it running and little power on the opposite side. Unplugging it 1 prong has power and the other dont

I assume you talk about the square relay. This is a common relay use in many automotive application. 85 - 86 is the voltage in that will engage the relay. 30 - 87 will connect together when when voltage is apply to 85 - 86. if you need more help, send me an email thru the contact us form on my website and I will send you a picture. I assume your relay is all fade out and you can't see what goes where.

@@maximumparts How do I send a pic? Web page is??

This is the link for our store contact form, gokart.maximum.parts/contacts/

Sorry can't really help. I don't know which CDI you are talking about and even if you show me some pictures, I will not know the wiring. Did you check with the seller to get the info on the wiring? Also, is it a DC or AC CDI? This is what you need to know to get it right. One thing you could do is to use the original CDI first and make it work and after troubleshoot your new CDI and make it work.

@@maximumparts it is a DC and same one only a new one I bought because the old one had no plug ins they had the old one all cut up but I did have it running. It's a blue cdi for 50 to 250 cc

@@maximumparts I will keep plugging away with it but any feed back be appreciated. Just I stripped the old harness they had all patched up and taped and trying to do a complete new one

Don't know nothing about this CDI. Maybe the CDI is bad, this is why you should get the basic one first and when you know it work go with the blue one.

Sorry, don't know nothing about this CDI. Check with the company you bought it from, they should have the info on what they sell.

We don't sell the wiring harness. Multiple machine use the same basic wiring harness but all of them are slightly different. We would have to carry multiple wiring harness. If you are looking to make your own, we do have the connectors. This is the link: gokart.maximum.parts/catalogsearch/result/?q=connector

I have the same engine you have I have no diagram or any type of wires it's just plain... I purchased a wiring harness on eBay and it keeps getting burn out like it got to a point where it was melting the wires so I just gave up on the project but I look at your video and it gave me hope lol ...

Sorry, I don't. The problem is every wiring harness are different. So any wiring harness you will buy will need to be modify unless it is specific for your machine. The only thing I have is the wire and connectors to help you rebuild. This is the link for the wire: gokart.maximum.parts/catalogsearch/result/?q=wire and this is the link for the connectors: gokart.maximum.parts/catalogsearch/result/?q=connector

gokart.maximum.parts/ignition-start-switch-3-wires.html

It's the AC Power if you have an AC CDI.

@Bj Loomis Not all Carter Talon 150 are DC CDI, some came with a AC CDI. But if you did the entire wiring like I do in the video, it will become a DC CDI. Which CDI you bought, AC or DC?

i thought it was dc but it isn't it is a ac

can i wire it ac if i want to

Yes you can. BY MEMORY, the only wire that change is the power, you will need to use the red-black coming from the stator. Double check before you dod anything.

Someone said if it’s a big box it’s dc and if it’s a small box it’s ac

The engine in the video is this one: gokart.maximum.parts/engine-internal-reverse-gy6-150.html

The principal is always the same. The connections might change. Like when I do the ignition switch, I go with deduction. Power in, accessories and start position. For the CDI, you need power, signal from the engine and send the signal to the ignition coil. If you eliminate each wire one by one and draw the electrical plan, it will make sense to you at the end. As for your answer on the Kymco 70cc ATV, I can't answer because I don't see the electrical plan or do not have the machine in front of me to make sense of the wiring.

@Ricky Vasquez all wiring harness are different. You would have to find the exact wiring harness for your machine otherwise you will have to make it work. At that point, it would be easier to make one from scratch.

The pick coil is by the stator. If you follow the blue/white wire form the CDI, you will find the pock up coil at the end. The pick up coil ground on the engine case.

This is the link for the resistor in the video: gokart.maximum.parts/resistor-comp-10w-10-ohms.html