GoPro Rock Climbing at Muir Valley - Red River Gorge June 6 2012 

I'll be there in about 2 weeks excited

Have fun! Heading down again tomorrow myself.

Sweet Jane was my first trad lead. As you know it is fully bolted, but once upon a time it was a trad route, with a single bolt to protect a runout in the middle (story goes that Rick wanted it bolted after a climber saw the one or two bolts, mistook it for a sport route and climbed it w/o any other pro). In my opinion it makes a good intro to trad because it isn't difficult climbing, protects well (takes good finger through hand active gear the whole way up) and is bolted- if you get to a point where you aren't totally confident in your gear placements, pop a clip on the nearest bolt

You're right that it's unbalanced, but no one is top roping off of the anchor I set. In these instances I am only lowering and pulling the rope back down. Another climber leads after me and sets a proper equalized TR anchor for members of our party who with to TR. I did use a locker on the rope end in both these cases 16:16 26:40, but presumably you mean the carabiner going thru the anchor, which I concede.

Nice leading but don't clip your draws to the rap rings it puts a lot of ware and tare on them.