The Incredible Long Wall Classic, Rock Wars - Trad Climbing in the Red River Gorge.

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Climbs as beautiful as it looks. The stunning Rock Wars is really nothing more then quality layback for days. Don't let the grade or type of climbing dissuade you, you pretty much have gear options at every point along the way.
Absolutely worth the arduous hill you have to climb to get to Long wall (steep but not to long).
MP Link: www.mountainproject.com/route...
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[meta]
name:Rock Wars
pitch:1
style:Trad
area:Red River Gorge
wall:Long Wall
grade:5.10a

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Опубликовано:

22 сен 2020

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Комментарии : 40

@bobcanish 3 года назад

You know it's hard when Seth doesn't run it out 40ft and spend time extending every placement with triple length runners hahaha

@dennisrice1557 3 года назад

Tom Siders probably put that up before you boys were even alive

@bman6065 2 года назад

One of my coolest memories rock climbing was lowering over that flake system out left and a colony of flying squirrels came out and flew over my wife's (girlfriend at the time) head sitting on the adjacent giant boulder.

@LiveLaughJordan-oi6tg 3 года назад

The 'ol Black Totem crux savior 🖤

@sandstone.addict 3 года назад

Wait, this cant be Seth. He’s actually placing nuts!

@vbuffalini 3 года назад

FPB has single handedly killed more onsights than all the shirtless boulder bros spraying at their highest capacity

@FirstPersonBeta 3 года назад

This made me chuckle.

@LiveLaughJordan-oi6tg 3 года назад

Man, this one looked tough! Great job, Seth

@enricociuppa7093 3 года назад

always excited when a new video shows. Always nice watch first person climbing videos after your climbing day

@kurthoelter3495 2 года назад

heard the story of the group driving the tour bus through the underpass? wonderful route....

@louisbreytenbach8903 3 года назад

Awesome climb! Really enjoyed that!

@dereksmalls7808 3 года назад

I slipped and fell 2 feet from the chains on this route. Devastating. Hahah.

@adambaron3802 3 года назад

One of your better videos of late - always fun to see a bit of a battle. Reminds me of your cruel sister video!

@PatrickBeeson 3 года назад

Definitely on my list the next time I'm at the red.

@LouDude502 3 года назад

Beautiful line! Must do.

@louiscranfill4094 3 года назад

Good job. Did this way back in the day. Don’t if it’s true but, I heard David Lee Roth ( of Van Halen) used to climb and while they were in the area took their tour bus through the Nada tunnel so he could do this rt.

@louiscranfill4094 2 года назад

A Classic for sure

@jarrodpelphrey3114 2 года назад

I was always hesitant to place stoppers on this route. I’ve read that the flake can flex enough that they can pull out.

@ChrisJoneschrisajones Год назад

"This would feel awesome if my fingers were just a little smaller!" *everyone looks at their fingers*

@warrengooch6538 3 года назад

It used to be 9+ the bolt holes at that first ledge. Then they chopped those and extended it, taking the grade to 10a. It's busy up there. Good one!

@theopinson3851 3 года назад

Wait but 10a would be a downgrade from 9+ though.

@manishshankla9562 3 года назад

This was my first 10, such a good climb! Did you get on vector trouble? That's another amazing line at that crag.

@markdesaint-rat4905 3 года назад

Tom Souders' climbs are pretty good. Maybe try "The Perforator"

@theopinson3851 3 года назад

As always for trad in the Red...looks stiff! Nice climb.

@MinecraftEAT 3 года назад

Autumn is another Long wall goodie, hopefully you got on it while you were there. A lesser climbed line at Long is Mailbox, which is easy at first with a solid crux at the top.

@FirstPersonBeta 3 года назад

Did them both though really wasn't a fan of mailbox (Autumn on the other hand was amazing).

@jasonzevenbergen6338 3 года назад

Great video! I just watched your vids on horizontal cam placements, any chance you know if a red or orange totem would've slipped out of your manufactured crack like the C4s did?

@FirstPersonBeta 3 года назад

No clue, I didn''t have the Totems when I made the video, though they have a lot more going on and don't work on exactly the same model I featured in the video.

@wesNeill 3 года назад

Hardest 10a ever. The top traverse is so pumpy. And hell to clean!

@Cardsandstoagies 2 года назад

I saw the roof crack system above rock wars and it made me wonder if anyone has freed that. Got any knowledge of that?

@Lax-Sharks 3 года назад

So much for making your first pro (or 2) multi-directional..... you uhhh lika de zippa?

@FlatOutFE 3 года назад

If your belayer is standing in the correct position under the first piece then the force of fall is still downward. Secondly, some nut placements lock in quite well and can provide multidirectional support.

@tedslusser2817 3 года назад

Are nuts preferred on this route due to the flake? Would cams be more likely to flex the flake?

@FlatOutFE 3 года назад

@@tedslusser2817 I'll take a good nut over a cam any day. I'm also always reluctant to put cams behind flakes unless it's the only thing that works.

@xXxSpUtNiiKxXx 3 года назад

@@FlatOutFE you can have a zipper effect from above too if lets say you place another cam/nut and then take a fall, meaning the first nut experiences an upwards pull and may get yanked out. Suddenly you are only hanging on one piece of gear. I always make a point to place a cam first! I do buy the "no cams behind hollow flakes" argument though!

@FlatOutFE 3 года назад

@@xXxSpUtNiiKxXx that typically only happens if your belayer is standing too far away from the wall or the route is very overhanging. When possible the belayer should be close to wall. Your point has merit in that sometimes the belayer cannot be directly below the route (or shouldn't be for safety reasons). In my opinion, the nut was the right call in this situation and that it locked in very well. He had a cam as a backup of second placement.