Michael Raso describes how to use the Gossen Luna Pro F. A light meter will give you your shutter / f-stop readings for your film, cinema or digital cameras. Recommended! filmphotograph...
You don't start by dialling in the ISO. You start by removing the 9 Volt battery and check whether the needle comes to rest over the green line. A standard reading is activated for 30 sec. If you want a continious reading turn the red button to the right, remember to reset it to the left (set the white dot opposite the square).
A Gossen Luna Pro SBC has been my only light meter for as long as I've been shooting film. I love the build quality and of course the accuracy! Fantastic light meter!
The Gossen Luna Pro SBC (no flash meter function) and Luna Pro F are the gold standard in analog meters. Considered getting a digital a number of years ago and very quickly decided not to. The analog null meter is more than sufficient. There's nothing a digital could do for me that this one cannot. Too bad you didn't have a Gossen-Ascor incident flash meter to compare. Truly old-school, and the best part, it uses an A220 15V alkaline. No ambient and no reflected, only incident. The Mk II model has two ranges. The basic flash meter. Unless you want to make reflected readings, it's all you need. It's the backup to my Luna Pro F. I carry around a 5x7 size 50% gray card -- which should be used facing the camera location. Absent that, the palm of a hand is the excellent field expedient for it. Thanks for posting this video - covers the basics of an analog light meter extremely well.
Excellent video! I bought one(in the UK it's called the "Lunasix F").This is the only meter I've seen that has the Ansel Adams Zone System zones printed on the dial.
I see people are not following your directions by watching this prep video for 16mm film. Just bought some b/w for my Kodak K100 would love to talk to you about a project I'm working on - familiar with the PG Film from 1967?
Just scored a Luna pro SBC today on eBay ...can’t wait to get it in hand and start using it with my Mamiya 645 and other vintage cameras with no light meters in them!!.. great crash course video, sold me on it for sure👍📸
Nice video, Mike. I started with a Gossen Luna Pro SBC, but I got a Luna Pro F after listening to the show (what show?) and deciding a flash meter would be handy. Yes, I know there are attachments for the SBC, but it’s nice to have it built into the meter. I love these meters!
Thank you so much for this video. I wrote into the podcast a couple of months ago regarding the Gossen Luna Pro F. The video answered all my questions. Much appreciated!
The red activator button has 2 settings, one designated by a dot and the other by a square. Are they the on-off settings? Thank you for your step by step instrumental video. I plan to use this light meter with my Nikon F3HP and F Photomic T cameras as the in-camera light meters no longer work.
When shooting Super 8 or any movie camera, relying on the frames per second dial alone does not take into account what degree shutter is in the camera. Plus, the system that creates the image to the viewfinder may steal some light as well. It is best to understand what the effective shutter speed is at all your camera speeds. It is usually in the manual for the camera.
Hello mate, I been using the hand reading technique with all my light meters. In my case I only need to give +1 stop of light, because my hand it's about zone 6. It's a great technique, works all the time and I always bring my 2 hands with me😂, never forget at home like my 18% gray card😅😂. Cheers my friend and keep the great work🙏
Update: i gave up on finding batteries for my old Lunasix & now usimg Profisix but has Luna Flah attachment. How do these compare ? I really like it comparing to my Nikon F2AS SBC internal. Pretty spot on for 1977
Cool. So mine is an older German version Lunasix 3 or something. No F & it’s not the Null type. What is the version I need of the Gernan or Uk naming vs US? What is the newer rendition to compare w/ my Minolta IV F
@@FilmPhotographyProject I blame it on you! I listen to to podcasts and one of your soundbites was Gossen Luna Pro F! That and I can't look at a pair of binoculars without thinking "Binocs!"
I had the earlier one, the SBC version with many of the Profi-system accessories (flash, spot, etc.) back when it was introduced for my Hasselblad 500 C/M. Also, I had the Sixticolor color meter, but I used the Minolta Flash Meter much more later on.
I got the Lunar Gossen Pro XD basically to take a reading on it. Then it will give me the LV value so I set that on my Hasselblad lenses and it's ready !
Hello, I have a question, I shoot movies with a CCCP Quarz camera, and selenium is dead, if I shoot movies with an external light meter, does the white dome have to be on the CDS meter, or should I set the exposure to reflected light?
Why didn’t mine alarm like that when I pressed the buttons? Does the Film Photography Project have a special firmware update for those awesome (light-meter) sounds? I need the “Booyah Woow” sound on mine!
When you're metering a large scene, the meter is essentially averaging everything in it's field of view, which is 30 degrees wide for the Luna Pro F. If you meter a scene that's predominantly white like snow, it'll set that as grey, which'll cause the snow to be grey instead of white. The meter is quite literally assigning neutral (18%) grey to the white snow. Similarly, if you have a small subject in front of a black wall for example, it'll "assign" neutral grey to the black wall, making the wall grey and your subject too bright. If you meter snow, shoot about 2 stops over (open the aperture or slow the shutter 2 stops). Metering a well lit subject in front of a very dark, shadowy background, shoot 1 or 2 stops under. This is why incident metering is so useful; it measures the light falling on the subject, not what's reflected back. Incident readings are not "fooled" by extreme scenes. Incident is with the globe over the sensor. You go to where your subject is, point the meter at the camera and take the reading. It's traditionally used for portraiture and situations where you can walk up to your subject. However, you can also use it for things like landscape scenes, but only if the light falling in your location is exactly the same as where your subject is. If you're shooting a mountain lit by the sun but you are in a shadow, you can't use incident metering. Just remember that reflective readings are taken pointing the meter at the subject, incident readings are taken from where the subject is pointing directly back at the camera. If the scene you're metering is more or less an equal mix of the same light level, use the reflected meter reading as-is. Experience will teach you how much to compensate when a scene is not "average". On occasion, you will encounter situations where the spread between light and dark is wider than what the film can record. In this case, you have to chose what is most important. Do you want to preserve details in the highlights (let some shadow detail go to black) or preserve shadow detail and let highlight detail blow out. With color or B&W negative film, if you are metering a tough scene, it's generally better to err on the side of overexposure. Negative film handles overexposure far better than under. Many people shoot a stop over (shoot ISO 400 speed film at 200 for example) as a matter of course to make sure the shadow detail is lifted out of blackness (blocking up) A spot meter is also useful in extremes because it lets you meter specific parts of a scene. Most spot meters see a 1 degree spot.
@@GigiDAmico If or when you decide to learn about the Zone System (a more detailed way to think about how you assign what is shadow and highlight), the Luna Pro / Pro F's dial is set up for that too. That's why there are roman numerals on the dial. Zone V is middle grey.
Light and strobes have not changed since they were created, photography is no different than 150 years ago. Equipment changes, but that is all. Luna Pro is as good as anyone needs. If they can't use it, they are not doing cinema or photography. Color temp is another subject.
There is an adjustment screw on the rear. Take the battery out, the needle should rest on a green spot on the left side. Adjust accordingly. If that isn't the issue, the manual mentions sometimes they can be off. Mine was one stop over exposing all the time. I just moved the EV back until it matched my friends sekonic.
@@musclecarsforever Yes, there is a little screw (or "pot" as its called) on the meter. You can adjust the pot to the green with a small, small screw driver (screwdriver type that are used on eyeglasses)
If you can find it relatively cheap, it's a useful addition. However, the narrowest it meters is 7.5 degrees where most dedicated spot meters are 1 degree.
There are two different ways to change the metering angle with the Lunapro F (and other devices from the multi or the pro class) . The Gossen TELE had metering angles of 7,5° and 15°. You had to adapt them manual with an correction factor. The PROFISPOT is a real spotmeter with 1° metering angle. It has three contacts to compensate interior light loss of this device automatically. It could only be used with the Gossen Profisix (Pro SBC) and the Mastersix. Both habe the three ports for these contacts on the front cover. Other useful devives are the Profiflash 2 for the Profisix and the Proficolor for both. It is a two channel colortimer, which is provided with a special colorring for the Profisix. The Mastersix could be run directly with the Colormaster and the colortemperature mode
