@DRCEVNL I tried this method (too) with mixed cuccess. I like idea of having strong stock that I can graft more than just one scion onto but... First try didn't take at all, opuntia's middle sucked in. Next time I put it in wet container that I use for pereskiopsis grafts and it did better. I planted it after roots sprouted but it took 3-4 weeks before it started sucking water and few scions died. Will keep on trying, I'm probably doing something wrong... Thank you for another excellent video.
As far as I understood, by grafting on Opuntia exact combination of the cambium rings is not necessary? (Because once I have read that there should be a shift of the scion to the edge of opuntia). Thanks a lot for all your videos! For me it's very valuable knowledge! :) P.S. It would be nice if you had subtitles on this video too... :)
Depends on what kind of cristata you have. If they are very small, you can stick them without a rubberband. You can also use kitchenpaper en use the tape the use during painting to fix it. I have some examples not published yet that are based on wedge grafting.
@11Kiizu Hi, the first one (white button) is Epithelantha bokei. The second one is Toumeya papyracantha cristata. The last one is so quick growing that it can 'eat' the opuntia stock
@ingward2 The cambium ring in case of Opuntia goes all the way arond along the edge. So seedlings are put just along the edge (also in case of grafting tubercles). In other case the rings will intersect in most of the cases. Thanks for your suggestion, i will do it, but can't promise when right now.
...And because of high humidity at the cut of the scion appeared orange spot (rot) ... Although I have read about this method on a one forum ... In general, I would like to know where you put plants after grafting, is there high humidity and how often to ventilate?
@ingward2 i just put them in the very shade after grafting, most of the time in the house someplace where there is no sun. I don't put them under a cover or so, neither in a humid enviroment.
Thanks for your answer! I have one more question. This video shows everything except the conditions after grafting ... I think this is an important moment... My experience of grafting is small and fruitless - there were 4 unsuccesfull attempts to graft on Selenicereus and Hylocereus ... I have the suspicion that the whole thing is that after grafting I put plants for few days in plastic bags with airing 1-2 times a day...
@AimShootKilI Ik heb dit zelf nooit gedaan, maar kan geen reden bedenken waarom niet. Meen me vaag te herinneren dat heel vroeger, door het enten van meerdere stukken van verschillende soorten op en naast elkaar allerlei mannetjes en andere figuren werden gemaakt. Dus volgens mij kan dat gewoon.
@DRCEVNL Exactly, depends of the species, for me the fastest grow presents is in opuntia spp. i graft gymnocalyciums in opuntia cochenillifera, only 6 months since the seedling grow 10 cm incredible!! thanks for the video good job!
@HabaneroChilipepper That is Pereskiopsis, probably velutina. You find more about grafting on this type of stock in one of the other movies (Grafting on Pereskiopsis)
@11Kiizu i once have bought a piece at the ELK in Belgium. They grow very fast once grafted. Some pieces make one headed sprouts. These can be grafted and look like normal plants of Toumeya payracanthe and do flower. I did not test whether the seeds give new cristates.
@AnTTunTT Hi. Big scions well have a pretty large circle of vascular bundles and they will always cross the vascular budles of the opuntia pad. The vascular bundle of the opuntia pad is running next to the epidermis and is easy visible. Seedlins are placed at the edge of the opuntia pad so they will more or less with their center right on the vascular bundels of the opuntia pad.
@feroxcactus I never used Myrtillocactus. The speed depends upon the type of Opuntia that is used. Opuntia basilairs for example is slower than Opuntia compressa. I guess Opuntia robusta of other larger Opuntia species will speed up the graft as well. The other reasons why i am using Opuntia is because there are winterhardy types and they are so easy to propagate. I the beginning i raised 8 plants out of one pad, just by cutting the pad in two horizontal parts and than in four vertical strokes.
Did you have grafted some tubers (for example wilcoxia, ariocarpus) on opuntia? What cactus species have you had grafted on oputia? Your videos are vey good. Greetings from México.
What type of cactus is it? Can you put a picture somewhere with a link so i can have a look. To get more surface you can cut the cristata in another way (or/and use just a small piece). It won't stand op right away, but when it develops it will go back in the right position.
di44ito One week is enough. You can leave them longer, but than you have to remove most of the elastic bands. You can leave them till the first roots appear, but you can also try to reroot them after a week. As a alternative you can use pre-rooted pads. The roots will get dry between the tiles, but after a week you can put them in a container without worries and suppy water immediatly
