My late father, the ole ‘Sea Captain’ used to say ‘most people know the price of everything - and the value of nothing’. It’s not just an axe, it’s an extension of yourself. VERY important for something that can maim you deep in the woods. Cheers from the West Coast.
@@KevinsDisobedience According to Catholic mystic Anne Catherine Emmerich, "I saw the curse pronounced by Noah upon Ham moving toward the latter like a black cloud and obscuring him. His skin lost its whiteness, he grew darker. His sin was the sin of sacrilege, the sin of one who would forcibly enter the Ark of the Covenant. I saw a most corrupt race descend from Ham and sink deeper and deeper in darkness. I see that the black, idolatrous, stupid nations are the descendants of Ham. Their color is due, not to the rays of the sun, but to the dark source whence those degraded races sprang." en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curse_of_Ham
I have a 1911 Swedish Mauser made at the Carl Gustav arms factory and each seperate part of that rifle has a Swedish Crown and the last 3 digits of the serial number stamped into it. The reciever, barrel, and bolt also all have the inspector's initials stamped into it as well. For being 111 years old, the quality, condition, and functionality are as good as any other tool or object I own or have ever owned. Stainless steel had just been invented a few decades prior, but the steel they used on that rifle is some of the best I've ever seen. So seeing that crown and the initials I didn't for a second doubt that this axe would be anything less.
@@KevinsDisobedience Trust me, I am. Wanted something for that could be used for hunting as well as doing some long range target shooting. It's phenominally accurate and just looking at it, I'm thinking it will serve my family well for another 111 years.
My Gransfors Bruks small forest axe is my go to. They really are amazing tools when you handle them it just makes you happy inside. It’s hard to explain.
I know what you mean. That's why I have my Small Forest Axe near my bed. Whenever I feel I need to lift my spirit, I grab my axe and take off the leather cover, rub the hand up and down the smooth handle and give it a few practice swing and admire the sharpness of the edge and the beauty of the axe head. It always put a smile on my face. :)
I have only broken my maul handle, and that's from overstriking. I think handles should feel comfortable to the user. Thinner is usually better but some guys have bigger hands.
Amen brother. I don’t know how people are always breaking handles. Well I do know-they don’t know what the hell they’re doing-but that aside it shouldn’t be a common occurrence unless you’re working with an axe 8hrs a day, weekly. And I don’t think anyone can say that anymore.
I think you’d be surprised what a the small forest axe can do. I have a hasqvarna 26 inch and the gransfors 19 inch and it’s just so much more handy and compact while still being a formidable little axe. Definitely use it much more just for the convenience, even if it’s not quite as capable.
I am 13 and I use axes since I was very small. I agree with you in the handle breaking stuff, It won’t break for a long time unless its getting overstriked or maybe the quality is bad.
Good point re: Power hammers - Believe the majority of axe production throughout the 1800's and early 1900's was usually by trip hammers powered by waterwheels. As soon as there was technology to make axe making more efficient people used it, that's what allowed axe production to be industrialised and expanded. Countless vintage axes were made this way. So I agree there's no place for misplaced modern axe snobbery IMO; Great channel Kev, keep posting : )
I obviously agree. If there’s someone buying a GB axe because they actually think some guy is banging his brains out on an anvil, well, then they deserve to be duped. Thanks for watching.
I did not bone the Gransfors Bruk logo off my SFA. I am not a bushcrafter, but I am an outdoorsman. I am going to buy the Scandinavian Forest Axe as my next acquisition. I have a shop full of axes, so I really do not need another axe. The hang on my SFA was perfect and would shave hair on my arm. It was made by Matthias Blitz, MB.
For a quick touch up sharpening my Scandinavian GB, I use a diamond dia-sharp DMT stone. No water or oil needed. Plus it will sharpen harder steel better the typical wet stones in my experience. Razor sharp on my GB and Tuatahi.
A messer (German for "knife") is a single-edged sword with a knife-like hilt construction. While the various names are often used synonymously, messers are divided into two types: Messer Type Sword Service history In service c. 1300-1500 Specifications Mass avg. .96-1.4 kg (2.1-3.1 lb) Length avg. 75-113 cm (30-44 in) Blade length avg. 62-85 cm (24-33 in) Blade type Single-edged Hilt type Cruciform and riveted, with end cap or pommel and nagel A Kriegsmesser in the Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna. Lange Messer ("long knives") are one-handed swords used by Bourgeoisie (middle-class civilians) for personal self-defence.[1] They were about a meter long and may have evolved from the Bauernwehr ("peasant's sidearm"). They are also known as Großes Messer (Great Knife). Kriegsmesser ("war knife") are curved weapons up to 1.5m long, used with one or two hands, and normally wielded by professional warriors of the 14th to 16th century, such as the Landsknecht.
I like your take on things. I’m trying to decide between the Small Forest Axe and the Gransfors Splitting Hatchet for use on shorter backpacking trips (overnight trips). It will be used exclusively for splitting logs cut with a saw. Splitting hatchet seems like the winner, but it weighs 3.3 pounds.
Honestly you can make anything split with very little trouble, especially the small rounds you’ll be splitting when camping. I wouldn’t bother lugging around something that heavy. But then I’m not a fan of 20” handles. Get something 2-2.5lbs on a 24” handle.
@@raventree7707 - I ended up with the small forest axe for now. The deciding factor was the weight since I’ll be carrying the axe on certain backpacking trips.
I’ve hesitated pulling the trigger on one of these on more than one occasion. I will eventually break down and buy one, but it’s hard to justify spend $200+ on an axe when I can buy a vintage American axe and make a custom handle for it for a fraction of the price.
Ive used the Hultafors Agdor chopping axes as they have a similar design head and grind but with a little centerline they are nice axes sadly that one was a friends I bought for him for camping and bushcraft. They are definitely a capable tool no matter what anyone says and a good contender (and its half the price) for the out of the box solution although admittedly I immediately insisted on thinning out the section near the throat like a Ball peen hammer like Steven Edholm did with his just to give it some more flex.
Hultafors makes great axes, no arguing that. The Kisa is their exact crossover to what I’m using in this video. Unfortunately it’s only $50 cheaper than the Gransfors. Husqvarna makes a much cheaper version though.
@@KevinsDisobedience I have the Husqvarna 26" Multipurpose Forest Axe and I think it's great axe for the money. The grind and sheath sucks, handle is a bit thick, but after a little bit of love, kinda like what skillcult did with his, it is a fine all around tool. Much more efficient out in the woods compared to a big bladed knife or a tomahawk. The axe paired with a knife with a 4 to 6 inch blade is the best combo in my opinion. The TOPS Brakimo is my current knife of choice, and a packable paddle strop and compound is my go to maintenance method for the axe and knife since they both have a convex grind with a micro bevel. The other tools I tend to bring with me are the Silky Big Boy 2000XL Folding Saw, Leatherman Supertool 300 Multi Tool, and Cold Steel Spetznaz Shovel. Working on a tool roll with Scotch Eyed Auger Bits, Draw Knife, Mora Hook Knife, Mora Carving Knife, 4 In Hand, Rasps/Files, Chisels, etc. I'm not finished with the tool roll yet and even if I was, I doubt I'll bring it everytime I go out. I could talk gear and skills or knowledge all day long, but I have already wrote a novel lol. Take it easy and stay safe.
I agree. I love the Husky. I also agree about it needing some work. I seriously thinned out the handle, ground the bit back, and made a need sheath. It’s been one of my favorite axes for a few years now. I too almost never go to the woods without the Big Boy. I was using the Gomboy for awhile, thinking the Big Boy was too big, but after stepping up I rarely use the Gomboy. I’m also a fan of the Cold Steel Shovel. I intend on doing a video on it and the mods I’ve made soon. Anyway, thanks for watching.
I’ve used my scandanavian GB for several years. I had to increase the cutting edge angle for use in hardwoods. Excellent axe but I prefer my Tuatahi trapper axe from New Zealand.
I was like you I didn't wanna spend the money but now I have 2x gransfors bruks, splitting wedges, splitting maul, felling axe, drawknife, 3 vintage double bit heads need to hang new handles. Cool you made this axe your own on the mods.
Thanks for commenting, Jesse. They make a good axe, and I really like this little one, but I’m starting to think they aren’t as good as people make them out to be. My head came loose after only 6 months. Made a vid about it a few weeks back. That said, I fixed it and do enjoy using this little thing. How do you like the maul? I’ve heard they are actually really good.
@@KevinsDisobedience haven't got a chance to use the maul yet but seems top notch from the you tube videos. Was hoping to use it for smoker I bought still gotta put the smoker together
What is your per hour labor? If 30, or $40 dollars per hr and you spent 2 additional hours getting it ready, then you total cost is $80 more than 200 or $280
I used to have a Small Forrest Axe by GB - had to let it go, was sticking in the wood too much, I see that this axe has the same problem. Cuts deep but get stuck with almost every swing.
Check out the Safety Sally videos. I use this axe in all of them. Maybe you’ll still think so, but anytime you burry a sub 20 degree axe in the wood you’re going to have to remove it. It’s a matter of how easily it comes out.
I have the same axe and the same complains. I got a blood blister with my after about 15-30min of use. The bit doesn't chop that well but is good enough for fresh trees and dried softwoods. Its unusable with dried hardwoods, the shock is very intense after just one swing. Does that mean the axe is bad? No its good but requires work which is not a bad thing since different people have different needs and there is a lot of material to work with. I will say the head is very hard and difficult to work with so that hard steel is not necessary a good thing.
You’ve basically summed up my thoughts exactly. I actually enjoy the axe after making the mods, but for the money you might as well go with the Husky or the Hultafors as they all require the same work, but are a lot cheaper. Thanks for watching.
@@KevinsDisobedience Yeah I second that. The hultafors HY20 is less than 1/2 the price and the head is easy to file while still having the same edge retention and durability. Please keep making these videos. I had no idea how to use a axe at first and was skeptical towards the comments Ben was making until I tried them out for my self and wow what a world of difference. I just keep it simple with a 18 deg flat grind with a 30 deg secondary bevel and a 3/4" thk handle. Its a world of difference and enable the axe to be a much more versatile tool than just a wedge pounder/splitter.
Ben and I disagree about some minor things, but basically if you use an axe for any real amount of time to chop wood you will come to the same basic conclusions we have.
@@KevinsDisobedience For the money, this is a surprisingly overpriced axe. Anything at all that requires the modifications that "lesser" products require isn't worth its asking price.
One axe for what? No, this wouldn’t be it. The edge length isn’t long enough and it’s too light for real work. I haven’t bought the Felling axe because it’s really expensive and I would rather have it on a 28” handle. If I could buy just head, I’d have it tomorrow.
I just came across your channel and I did subscribe.... so seeing how you get out and use your tools I greatly appreciate your opinion. I was going to buy a quality small chopping axe because I've always used the box store stuff but I'm older now and can afford it. I don't mind spending 200 or more. The problem i have is not having friends that own quality axes so after research and....lol....and youtube....lol.... good old interweb I came to the gransfors bruks Scandinavian forest axe or the council tool velvicut 24 inch camp axe. Could you recommend 1 over the other or something completely different thats quality. I'd like to stick with a head about 1.75-2.25lbs its just for camp processing small wood cutting some stakes....limbing branches.... THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
Kevin, great video. Do you have a small wheel with angle markers ? I ask because the edge you created looks like it is quite a bit thicker than 18 degrees. I'm willing to be wrong, I'd like to know. If it cuts it doesn't matter, you've created the right geometry but visually, I'm curious to know if I'm correct.
Thanks, yeah I’ve got an angle gauge. Did I say 18? This is a 20’scadi, no secondary bevel-that is after I removed some steel. I can’t remember if I show that in this vid. Out of the box it’s is like 23, I think. The trouble with those gauges is everyone uses them differently. Some say if it fits in the slow the that what it is; others want the point to reach the very apex of the slot. Anyway, I find if you can get an axe right around 20 or just sub 20 you’re in good shape for chopping.
@@KevinsDisobedience thank you for the reply !! I think if it fits at the beginning of the edge of the round slot at the end and there is no sideways play then it is the angle that is printed for that particular slot.
I am a forest property owner and I get intrigued when you talk about how many just use their axe for a bit of kindling and stuff like that. I only use the axe for splitting some kindling or some odd firewood and perhaps when I find the odd small tree I want to lop or cut and move out of the way. All jobs that make it worthwhile to start it, I use a chainsaw. What work are you doing that makes you use your ax a lot every day?
No, you’re absolutely right. Chopping is a hobby. While I do find clearing paths quicker, in many instances with and axe-especially limbing trails deep in the woods. But believe I run my chainsaws and wouldn’t want to be without them. For splitting, almost any axe will do.
New sub here. Great video brother. This video helped me pull the trigger on getting my Scandi axe today. I’m probably gonna mod the handle pretty similar to what you did.
Hey thanks for subscribing. Stay tuned. Lots more to come. Tool review will be up next. Don’t be afraid to experiment with the handles until you find out what you like. And as a warning, you might want to leave more of a swell than I do, that’s a kind of unique personal preference. Most people don’t like that. Let me know how it goes.
And let's remember Council Tool's Pack Axe and Carver. They as well as all Velvicut axe heads are forged of 5160 steel that have unconditional lifetime guarantee. Best choice worldwide all sourced and "hand forged" here in the 🇺🇸.
That’s true. There’s a lot of names for the same grin: flat grind, chisel grind, Scandinavia grind...call it what you want. It’s not convexed. That’s what meant.
What’re your feelings about the LAMACA axes? They made the light forest axe as direct competition to this axe. They also make a cruiser as well. I will battle you on the hand forged debate.. another time though ;)~
I think Lane is making beautiful axes. I actually ordered one of their handles but never got it. Contacted them and Lane said he could replace it at cost when they got more in, but I never heard back from the. So I was a little put off after that. I don’t like their double bit for the same reason I don’t like Gransfors-bits too curvy. If they make a crossover to CT 2.5lb, 28” Velvicut, I’d probably buy it. I think their red sheaths are sexy as hell. Lol. Also, glad to hear your argument against “hand forged”. Watch Liam Hoffman make an axe head, and after he’s done sweating his ass off for hours (using modern tools), tell me that’s not hand crafted. Willing to agree to disagree, not a hill I’m going to die on. Hope all is well with you.
How much did Lane talk about axe science and lost axe technology, then he goes ahead and makes the same axes as everyone else? I would've thought he'd at least give his axes a high center line and convex cheeks.
I know but it’s a better handle now, I promise. I do really like this axe now, but I’m not afraid to experiment. Thanks for watching. Check out some of my other videos. If you like what you see, think about supporting me with a sub. I enjoy the conversation within the community. Thanks
I just bought a Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe and the grain in the handle runs perfectly horizontal not vertical (opposite direction of the axe head/ opposite of the one you have)...is that normal for these axes? It's the opposite of anything I've ever known about how grain should run in an axe handle (except for a straight handle).
It’s certainly not ideal. Actually, if I understand you correctly, it’s exactly opposite of what is theoretically the strongest possible grain orientation. I can’t speak to wether it’s normal for these axes because I only have one and it is very good. I think grain orientation is overrated by the community at large, especially on short handles. My guess is the desire for straight grain was started by the old-timers who were using bigger axes with longer handles, which were much more likely to break, and just got repeated ad nauseam. That said, you bought a $200 axe; it should be perfect, or damn close. So I’d send it back and get a new one. Hope that helps.
It's obviously a good axe, but at a $200 price point? IMHO, not, considering these alternatives. If one must have an axe with C50 "Swedish steel" (AISI 1050 equivalent 😆), then Hults Bruk is to be looked at. I bought their Torneo, now discontinued, as my pack axe. With a head weight of 1.75 lbs and 26" club handle its weight is 2.8 lbs. The retail average price of $110, I bought mine for $80 total. Same issues as Gransfors it needed sharpening and severe thinning that took me 12 hours to complete. Yes, both are good, but IMHO, NOT GREAT. There are other much less expensive options, namely the Council Tool line; my favored. Their Utility Boy's Axe. Head weight 2.25 on either a 24" or 28" handle that doesn't need thinning and weight of 2.5 and 2.8 lbs, though sharpening is still required for best performance. At $42-$48, I think this the best bang. CT's Utility line steel is AISI 1060 and their heat treat is second to none. At the Gransfors price I'd choose the Council Tool Velvicut Boy's Bad Axe. Though it weighs 3.6 lbs with a 2.5 lb head on a 28" handle there are the following advantages. The geometry is perfectly balanced for chopping and splitting and it's honed to perfection right out of the box. It comes with a full sheath with D-rings to attach a shoulder strap and priced $142-$171. If I had to choose a one only axe from the ten I have, the CT Boy's Bad Axe would be the one. Just my 2 ¢.
I’ve got the Velvicut too. Got ‘em all actually. Love them all. Just did a review on CT new HB model. Cool little axe. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Not many do. I hope you’ll stick around and become part of the community. Ya seem knowledgeable. Thanks
A gypsy gave it to me and said it could start a fire anywhere, even under water. She wasn’t wrong. Lol. Nah I’m more of a Bic lighter guy most of the time.
@@KevinsDisobedience > absolutely Kevin, i enjoyed your perspective on this Axe, and based on your insight i am glad i did not buy it at the time i was considering it frankly. over time watching your vids, i am sure i will develop a better sense of the kind of Axe i should be purchasing. thanks !
People get all weird and conflated about the silliest things these days. If you're more worried about being that guy than not, then you might be that guy. 😅 There's a big difference between a production axe and an adventure/hobby axe and they have different uses. Even hatchets are great. Mall ninja tomahawks though... yeah. maybe not quite so much. I'm not knocking either (I'm also not saying that it isn't sometimes warranted), but there is a difference between a way of life and a life style. Cheers. 🍻
I have not, but I would like to. If I could get just the head, I’d buy one right now. I don’t really like 30-32”handles. I’d prefer to hang it on a 28” handle. Do you have one? Straight or curved handle?
@@KevinsDisobedience hi , yess i have the 32 " curved handle and i love this axe , when i buck with , my back is less bent because of the 32 " , its a powerfull axe too . I have the scandinavian too i love these 2 axes ciao Kevin ✌️
Ben definitely knows what he’s talking about, but don’t take anybody’s word as gospel. Mine or Ben’s. Ben comes at it from a heavy, wide-edge POV. This axe is terrible in both of those categories. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t have a place in your tool kit.
What are you doing hitting the exact same place each time you swing into the wood? That’s not the way I do it. I’m like lightning. I never hit the same place twice.🤨
Lol. Good one...like lightning. Im just overlapping my cuts to remove the chips. That’s just good technique, although I miss plenty too. But I’m assuming you know that and are just being funny.
No, I didn’t move it, but by shaping the swell it may look different than the stock models. I don’t like lanyard holes though. Wish they weren’t there at all. May fill it in with Bondo someday.
In a world with quality axes significantly cheaper than this and where anyone buying and using an axe should know how to tune and maintain it (and should expect to), GB just doesn't strike me as worth the money at all. Bad? Absolutely not. I just think there is quite the diminished return on all the extra dollars.
Yeah I know. It’s a preference. The big palm swells feel so awkward to me. I’ve dialed in what I prefer over the last three years. I’m not suggesting everyone do this. Do what feels right for you, but don’t be afraid to experiment. You won’t know what you like otherwise.
Thanks, I’ve not heard of it. But I’ll check it out. I’m glad there’s a few of you guys out there who enjoy the intellectual content. I’d like to do a little more of it actually. But we’ll see.
@@KevinsDisobedience what kind of stuff are you wanting to read? I'm about to start a PhD on jurisprudence so I think I can probably recommend a thing or two.
Oh I don’t have a lack of things I want to read-just need more time. Everyone has their own reading trajectories, and they branch off in life as your interests evolve. Good luck with the degree. Maybe check out my last three vids. The handle follow up has a shot of my book shelf’s, and then the channel update has a close up of the one shelf-you’ll get a better sense of what I’m into. Thanks
@@KevinsDisobedience that's true, but I found that until I had academic guidance I was kinda stuck as there's so many options, having someone that could tell me "if your goal is to learn X these are the people that are influential" was great. The other side is that obviously you want to pick out books that you'll actually end up reading. Feel free to hit me up if you change your mind.
Yeah good eye. They stopped adding a metal step wedge in their lighter axes about two years ago. They claim it’s not necessary. I’m assuming they glue their wedges now. The little step wedge they use is just to keep the wooden wedge from backing out anyway; it’s not substantial enough to spread wood anyway.
Wetterling is better. That is why Bruks bought them out and now Wetterling makes axes for them. Wetterling is much better and the seath way better then Bruks. No comparison. I have an original Wetterling Back country axe and a Burks Small forest axe and no comparison. Not only the axe but the sheath is not cheat looking and Bruks looks and feels cheap.I also have a Les Shroud Bushmans axe by Wetterling witch is awesome. They discontinued it.
There’s no comparison. Although I’ve limited experience with either, the Gransfors is worth twice the Ochsenkopf I have, and the GB is only $40 more, and so much less work. I’d go with the Gransfors.
Thanks. Love HB! No, I’m on the East Cost in PA. Get the Aneby, Kisa, and Five Star Arvika-you’ll sell a lot. The Kisa is the crossover to the one I’m reviewing. It would be the one I’d buy. But the others are extremely popular choices. Good luck and thank you!
The new iteration of Council Tool's Hudson Bay axe closely resembles this, save for the CT HB is more of a wedge and it has a tempered poll. Two handle length and you could buy the CT HBs for the price of one. Plus is the superior steel and haft of the CT HB. IMHO the whole line of Gransfors and other European axes is only perpetuated by it's cult following here in the U.S. Are you feeling me? If you haven't had another axe that was ready to chop out of the box, then it's a dead giveaway that you don't own any CT Velvicut. Enough said. I think you're wrestling with convincing yourself, but I disagree. You could have got more for less.
I own all the CT boy’s axes. They’re great. At the end of the day, they’re just a piece of metal on the end of a piece of wood. Nothing worth getting worked up over. I have a video titles the Cult of GBA. Might want to check it out. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KpEzvL18hHE.html
$200 for that AXE. You've must be drunked when you order it. Like you've said.. you just payed for the BRAND. 80% of it's worth. Now you can nail it to an wall as a reminder to never do a stupidity like that ever again.
It’s definitely not worth the price, especially considering the head came loose after only six months, which I show in a more recent video. Unfortunately, even if you buy a decent vintage head on EBay and a decent handle, you looking at close to the price tag these days. Prices on EBay have gotten stupid. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I tried, but my writing skills are not sufficient to convey how I recently busted the handle on my 2.25kg Jauregi. I'm going to keep this sheath design in mind for the next one I make. I'm also apolitical as far as the false left-right paradigm is concerned, but I very much seek to know the truth of what is really going on in this wicked world.
Thanks for commenting. As for the politics, yeah...as soon as somebody starts chanting team Us vs Them, my eyes glaze over. Doesn’t mean I’m not interested, just not in that way of thinking. It’s basically tribalism.
I can only speak on the one I have, and funny enough it’s the only one out of the three (GB, HB, Husky) that hasn’t come loose. They all have great grain, and they all came way too thick, but as I say I can only judge based on what I got. I’m sure there is a lot of variability.
I have steel toe boots. They don’t really protect you from an axe, as most axe injuries occur on the sides of the feet or the shins. If you want to protect yourself, look into chainmail socks. That’s what the Timber Sports guys wear. Thanks
Comparing Nike, a global fashion giant whose products are largely made using near slave labor, with a tiny Swedish axe company which employs experienced professional artisans and is "popular" because they make the highest quality product in their category on Earth is ridiculous. That's like comparing a Ferrari F1 car to a Ford Fiesta.
Fair point but I think your extending the metaphor in the wrong direction. I simply meant it is the most popular axe company and some people wear the stamp the same way they show off the Nike swoosh. I obviously like the axe.
@@KevinsDisobedience i think thier scandinavian axe is deffo one of thier better ones, but im really not a fan of any except thier maul. Its quite nice but tbh you get the same geometry from a fiskars
I like it. Wish the edge length was .5-1” bigger, but that’s part of what I like about them, I think...you got to be accurate with them, and you have to overlap cuts perfectly to make them work. As far as mauls and splitters go, anything chunky will do for me. I’ve split wood my entire life. I do t think it really matters much. The Fiskars is great! But I mostly use my vintage CT 4lber that’s been around the farm since I was born.
@@KevinsDisobedience Better later than sooner. My handforged axes don't need to be sharpen that soon. In fact, i have axes that don't need rersharpen for almost one year. If you watch one of my videos on my channel, you can see that they can cut into iron without chipping or roling.
Lol sorry brother. I’m not always succinct. More importantly, That axe I was sure wouldn’t come loose; it came loose. Made a vid about it. Very disappointing.
