man can we please have more of this stuff, this is the stuff that interests us a surfers, fk wiping out is what surfing is all about we've all been hammered, drilled to the bottom and spun around, listening to everyone elses stories is the greatest yarns ever..
It's just so fkn crazy when the bravest and greatest athletes in the history of mankind tell stories where they're actually terrified for a minute or two. Twigs is one of my favorite of all time
I have ridden a few big waves but nothing even approaching what this man has ridden or seen. To hear him tell this story, and hear the fear in his voice, gives me the chills as well. This is HEAVY! If you have any aspirations of riding big waves you need to listen intently. This is the price of admission. PEACE!
Having the breath knocked out of you is much more serious than what most people think. When we were little we would get slammed to the ground on our backs and it was impossible to draw a breath. The wind doesn't get knocked out of you, what happens is you temporally paralyze your diaphragm. The diaphragm is what is called an autonomous muscle much like your heart. You don't have to do anything to fire that muscle like you do with your bicep, for instance. The diaphragm expands and contacts which inflates and deflates your lungs, without it we suffocate. When you want to control your breathing, concentrate on your diaphragm you can almost feel the blood rushing to those tired muscles. Cheers!
Insane story, but you survived from sheer optimism I feel. World story so few can attest to, but glad to say you are here to battle again, thanks to your own optimism.
I spent two days SUPing with Twiggy on the right in my profile picture, me and him very uncrowded 6to 8 foot Indo at 16 seconds. waves, sharing perfect rights, he was on a SUP he was cross training. Great dude,!!IWhen we exchanged names he said his name was TWIGGY, and mte I won a Maverics comp.. , I was like holy shit GTB >?? got lots of great info from him while surfing. He said anyone over 40 who surfes real waves should cross train on a SUP, its his best core workout. Beautious video...I would be dead..Wear flotation.
I wonder if this is how Mark Foo died. Mark Foo had a very, very similar wipeout at Mavericks (go watch the video), his board stops mid-face and he belly flops, these guys are moving so fast that it almost certainly knocked the wind out of him, just like with Twiggy, and maybe, just like Twiggy, he thought "I'm gonna die, that's it." The only difference is, he didn't get that second breath over the falls, and he did die.
Euphemism I think that's probably exactly what happened. Twig is not exaggerating at all when he thought he was dead, and it was over. He's lucky and savvy he got that breath. The ocean has no conscious. Mistakes can go wrong fast, and be fatal. Twig has a gnarly story to tell !
@@sleepinglion1192 I'm learning about how skin divers hold their breath for so long. They don't exhale while underwater. Just having the air (oxygen) in your lungs can prolong your downtime. Not sure if inhaling before a wipeout is instinctual, but I'm going to practice it in big surf.
Amazing that he had that one quick, instantaneous opportunity to get a breath while being sucked up, out and over the falls. All by itself, that, for me, is one of the worst feelings of all, especially if the bottom is shallow or coral.
I've had like a 30 second hold down once, from only a 6 foot wave, and i was so fucking scared. This story is the scariest fucking thing, I've ever heard. If this was me, I would have panicked and drowned even with a full breath I reckon.
Hahahahah. Twigs funny. Talking about how he popped up like a cork. I got a question though, how do a lot of surfers end up being able to pop their heads out the back like that, while goin over the falls?? Do they need to swim to that point, or does it just naturally happen?? I've seen it a lot with big waves.
If you fall on the face of a powerful wave like he did, and don't penetrate through and out the back, you follow the same path up and over as the surface water does. Notice how he says 'up and over in slow motion, as you do' - this happens all the time. It doesn't have to be a really massive wave either, just a strong, hollow wave.
ja , you take all the ruffians u dont realy like , send them to Africka , mix in some lions buffaloes and leopards , let them breed for 300 years , and ja , they are otherwize !
Damn. And I Paniced while eating it on a 6-8 ft. wave in florida......yeah🤣.... But it was a miracle he popped his head up going over to get that breath .He would have no doubt drowned otherwise.
Amazing that you still ride and shape flat bottomed, concaved bottom, and vee bottom boards with shallow mutliple fins, wrong rockers, thin sharp rails, foiled out thin tails and noses on big waves. Geoff McCoy's designs and tow designs prevent boards spinning off and out like that. Mind boggling ignorant and stubborn corrupt ego filled surf industry. Get a Geoff McCoy. Email the man himself, and you will ride waves like that, and turn easy as pie and go faster so easily.
You are the ignorant one... this two time world champion has multiple of the most respected shapers working for him shaping boards for some of the best big wave riders going. www.twigsurfboards.com/twigshapers.html
