Haha yep the "how did I end up in this situation" always seems to find you...especially when the chiefs materialise. One of the best accounts of getting smoked. Thanks for sharing it Alex 🤘🏼
I've learned that lesson, I've noticed that myself, when they're screaming at you to "go!" I usually respond to them "why don't you go?" Oh? Because you're way out of position and you're a kook? Well too bad for you. And leave me alone. Wave selection is crucial part of surfing. (trust me on that)
I know EXACTLY what you're talkin about! I was in perfect position with an outside big mama and all the guys were yellin "paddle paddle go for it! After the wipe out , I think it was the sever oxygen deprivation that kept me calm. But they were right though, once you find yourself in that spot, it's do or die!
5:15 Lesson Learned. Yep. Don't listen to them! You do you. That's the only way to surf. I don't listen to nobody. My reply to them is "You go. if you want it so bad why don't you catch it."
I am in no way downplaying any wave! My point was that you can in no way understand these waves by watching them on film. The wave that got Mark Foo (May He Rest in Blissful Peace) looked so innocuous: yeah it was double overhead but, who hasn't surfed double overhead? Now Maverick's waves are different,like you said, dangerous, and that is exactly what you can't catch on film. It is like remembering that bomb you caught, and going through the footage to find it was more of a bimb, KWIM?
Have had the wind knocked out of me in football and surfing. You're rendered virtually helpless. I think that's what happened to Mark. That wave might not have been the biggest, but was extremly thick and heavy....
It is an absolute shame to me to no longer see this wave as huge. It is monsterous, but the number of waves I have viewed, mind you, not ridden being what it is this wave seems unremarkable, kind of like the one that got Mark Foo RIP.
bruh you have no clue what you are talking about. If you never rid this wave you have no idea of just who powerful and scary it is out there. This is some shorebreak warm water hawaiian wave lol its cold deep and oh yeah the sharks
In this context, to go underwater, through the wave and potentially to safety. Ideally in a wipeout you'd be in a diving position and could penetrate the wave's surface.Not so for this poor guy.
+MrShongololo most people who hate on surf videos, can't surf so they put other people down to make them selves feel better about sitting on youtube all day hahah
Yeah it's pretty simple, just have to sacrifice your first born son and do a dance to the gods during a solar eclipse, while eating unicorn tacos. Or click the join now button on the website, what ever's easier for you really.
+Greyson Myers Hey Greyson, Our music is available on Google Play : play.google.com/store/music/artist/The_Jetties?id=Ag7spmyhhxscqlw5lkwtqzo7pvy thejettiesband.com
