What year is your ram? And which Banks Grid Heater kit did you go with? They have two on their site, they say one is for 1st gen ISB 6.7 and the other is for 2nd Gen ISB 6.7, but I can't find anywhere to tell me which gen the ISB is in my 2017 ram 2500... Also, where did you get the vertical column heater by itself?
Noticed the Alberta plate 🤟 I'm in Fort Mac I've been curious if these have any issues on the really cold days? I know its been a mild winter so far. But if we get some cold temps a cold start video would be Wicked!!
Once we get some colder weather for sure. It does not produce near the heat the OEM does. I should have measure intake temps prior. I wasn’t too worried as I have a webasto as well so typically any cold weather the truck is pre-heated.
I bought the ghdp with that monster ram elbow and been wondering how to go about adding that heater element and if the wiring would be long enough. First video i have found that was detailed and to the point. Thanks for the great video!
I'd be interested to know how much this little coil actually helps. A cold start comparison on two different cold days of a similar temp would be interesting, one with and one without the coil. Thanks for the vid.
For sure it helps. The factory heater does do a better job of pre- heat. But this works ok. Where I am from in winter, cold climates I don’t just rely on the pre heat. I run a webasto coolant heater to help eliminate those cold starts. But for peace of mind with factory grid heater, the coil gives that. Cheers!
How did it fair over our Alberta winter? Any issues with the cold. I have the banks gird heater delete, but havent installed it yet. I have the 3.5 inch intake horn, your video has given me an idea where to mount that coil heater. I wasn't too confident on drilling out the top hole on the banks intake horn.
It doesn’t produce like the stock grid heater by any means. It does ok though. My truck is usually always pre-heated too with a Webasto. But I have had a few real Canadian cold starts and it did ok. I liked keeping the coil out of sight, I like it better in the back side then on top.
That air temperature sensor extender you mentioned, even though you just lengthened your factory wiring you happen to know a part number for the extender or no?
@@thekanemadness1 Finish, wow what a difference. So on my 2012, my air temp sensor is located in the same spot as original, didnt need to extend. I also did the bung technique with the aluminum weld. Added a heater just like yours and works great. Thanks
Thanks for the video and again for you're response to my first questions. Were the fuel rail lines hard to break loose? I would think yes due to extreme pressures. Thanks
Where the smaller holes are - that section is raised a few MM and if I recall the bung is just as wide, once drilled for the bung there would be a slight gap. The location allowed it to be a bit nice to tig in. Also being lower down is just less obvious to the eye. I’m sure you could put it there, but those are my reasons for choosing that location…!
My Mega Cab 4X4 G56 still has GH. I'm at 335000 miles (540000 or so Kilometers). No issues but feeling this needs to be done. Delete pieces are AFE but factory grid heater still in tact. What product do you recommend to delete the factory GH plate? Also If I remove the power to the relay will this buy me some time? Oh BTW I'm located in the deep south of the US so 10F is the coldest Its been since I've been here.
If you wiggle the power source at the plenum and it moves that is a pretty good indicator there could be incoming trouble. Yes, you can remove the cable from the relay and then I recommend some shrink tube over the ends of the cable. For the plenum there is multiple options Fleece, Pusher, BD diesel and Banks all make a non grid heater plenum. I saved a few bucks and got one off Amazon. Which is much the same billet aluminum. I used an OEM Cummins gasket with it instead of whatever came with it. Works and functions great. Hope that Helps!
Yeah my power cable blew up and as long as the bolt wasn't dangling and was tight when you pulled the cable. It should stay there indefinitely. I start up just fine in 21 degrees. 2 degrees over a couple days last year wasn't good but I have no in between yet. It's 40 again.
I wish they did something too. I do like having it where I put it on the back side, more inconspicuous there. Personally I like the clean and declutter of it!
I did a grid heater delete 2 yrs ago but I need a heater plug now but can’t remember what wire went to heater please make a video to help a clueless shade tree mechanic
@@thekanemadness1 Is that coil branded? Like an OEM part or made by banks? I dont trust random Chinese pieces of metal in my intake so Id only trust it if it was an OEM or high quality part. Could you try find the part number please?
DIH4 is commonly what is used as part number to find these. There is a multitude of parts manufacturers that make them. Take your pick of who is reputable and who to choose from. These were common in Chev’s LB7 engine from the early 2000’s.
The intake for emissions intact is already set up to take a coil heater M22x1.5, it is also machined around the flanged for it. The non-emission monster ram like mine is not and is smaller. Diameter of heater same size
Thanks for the video I’m thinking about doing this my self . It possible u can get the parts number or links for the parts I want to do the banks monster 4” do the Grid Heater delete.
I also live in Houston Texas too be exact it don’t really get cold here. But prefer too have that piece off mine that 10mm nut won’t brake and damage my engine thanks
I used banks part #42790 for the horn and sourced everything else individually. If you want whole kit banks makes part# 42798 if it is for 13-18 year models.
@@thekanemadness1 I only asked cause you drilled in your intake for the coil heater. I have an 18 also and my banks was already tapped. My friend has a 14 and banks don’t make it with the coil heater tap. So I sent him your video to show what you did. Thanks again.
But it is always overvolting. So it's always getting the treatment that could cause it to fail. Mine exploded from the outside cause my connector failed before the bolt. I'm still gonna get a non grid heater plate and just tap my intake for a coil.
It happens. For the cost it is safe assurance to not have it happen. With wanting to add the bigger intake horn…clean up engine bay - for me it made sense to go this route!
Most end up failing out of warranty. Even if it was during the warranty period, RAM will use the same parts. RAM does not have an upgrade/improvement on this.
