So good I watched it twice! It's evident how much you give to your family and the mushroom community. please make time to sit on the porch at sunset. You are a good man. Best wishes from a quail egg and fungi producer in Waikato New Zealand .
Hey bud long time. I just started with a marta stewart tend . Ive been having good results with it. I made one modifigation to it and that is a 2 inch holl above the door. I leave the door open up to the first rack from the bottom this way daires air flow. what i think made all the difference is i have a big bowl of water on the top shelf with a aire pump going 24/24 and i mist once a day. So far i have grown turkey tail, lion's maine, king oyster and yellow oysters in it.
It only moves 735 cubic feet of air when there is no resistance. Adding those long sections of flexible duct, and having bends in the ducts, etc. all lowers your fan's cubic foot output.
It loses effectiveness over time too, as spores build up and the fan wears out, but the ones we get have a speed control, and we start lower at the beginning of the week and crank it up as needed. It's also not really replacing the air in the room in the said time, because the new air mixes in with the old, but it works ok even if the theory isn't perfect
Can you let me know your thoughts on airflow? Some people say humidity from the top and exhaust out from the bottom, while others say NO it should be humidity in from the bottom and exhaust out from the top. In this video, I see the air is in from the bottom, but the humidity is released at the top so in other words, your using in from the top, but also removing air from the top. Thanks for all the great info!!
People make a big fuss about a lot of things, but here's the general principles. When people say you should pull air out the bottom, they are generally saying you should remove the CO2 heavy air. In practice, the grow rooms that I've actually measured don't show any stratification in CO2 levels. The air does stratify in temperature, though, so since we're in a spot that suffers more from heat during the summer then from cool during the winter, I put the exhaust at the top. Your mileage may vary based on local conditions.
Maybe it’s a bit more than I needed but was still helpful. I have my first two blocks grown what looks like mycelium and not mold. Blue Oyster mushroom. I’m just going to use a spray bottle on it a couple times a day. If I’m as successful as I hope, I’ll need one of those Martha tent things I’m sure.
I'm curious that you use the plastic for walls and ceiling. Have you ever tried installing cement board walls with a rubberized paint coating on walls, ceiling, and floors?
Interesting i have a very small growroom, my fan can replace the air in the entire room in less than 30 seconds, not counting with the resistence of the tubes and everything else so it should take more than 30 seconds for sure if i account with the resistence but it shouldnt take much more. But i got a strain of blue oyster that grow stems like nothing else i had pink oyster and regular oyster on its side and they dont have any problem but that blue oyster is insane.
keep an eye on the temp maybe? I've been consuming mushroom cultivation vids non stop for a few months now so I'm not a mycologist by any stretch, but something I've seen a ton of times with blue oyster is people say to grow nice ones you need air changes and cold temps, i believe people say you need to hang around 60-65
@@bulletfingrz ran into some minor hiccups, had my humidifier go offline.. and replacing it took months, grr will get back into it post Xmas holiday (since I am going away).
They drip. I pretty much hate all the pressure misting systems I've seen, and I've seen a lot on consulting jobs. It's just not as good a system, unless you like puddles and cleaning nozzles.
I do. I'm really dislike the pressure misting systems of all types. They always leave water on the floor and you need to sanitize each nozzle independently.
Ahh, so That's why my mushrooms have been calling me a c**t in the morning. "Build failure into your plan, it is cheaper than a college education" They should put that on our money haha, no but seriously that's a great phrase
why you take ait out of the top? from my understanding the airexchange is more efficent to take out from the "bottom" of the room because CO2 is a heavy gas? so you wouldn't need that much air exchange? or am I thinking wrong ?
That's what people say, but actual measurements in the rooms we've run have never shown that the CO2 stratifies in the air, it all mixed in evenly. Might be different in a larger space, but heat stratifies in our grow rooms, so I pull out the hottest air out the top
A air change every two mins is crazy. That's moving some cubes, could suck up Pickle Rick and make relish out of him. Who's got good idea's to re-use pre-heated mushroom fruiting room into grow tents for Tomatoes. I was thinking carbon filter to catch spores but that might get nuked with spores. Then there is the humidity issue
You can setup a simple HRV system to recapture the exhaust temperature and use it to pre heat or pre cool the incoming fresh air. All you need is 2 simple hydronic coils some tubing and a pump. Eric Myers has a great video showing how he built this kind of setup.
@@jessepayne4832 so a simple heat exchanger? Most of our run of the mill DVS/HRV systems take filtered preheated dry air from the ceiling space and create a positive preasure to keep our ambient 70-80% outside humidity out. Old tech doesn't work great this far south in winter when we average 10°c
Eventually but it can take a year or two and I find spray painting with high quality outdoor spraypaint to completely fix them. Also keeping good air circulation prevents condensation so even with the high humidity it keeps rust down quite well.
Hey man, really great video, but I have a question for you; I've been looking all over for a waterproof option for lighting my grow room, and I see you are using these with a fan blowing humid air etc, but I checked the specs for this light product from Barrina and they are not listed as waterproof. Can you let me know if these have held up to the typical humid environment of the grow room? Will they just stop working eventually, given the humidity? Let me know!
Why do you need to change the fans every week? I assumed they were blowing into the rooms, and therefore would avoid spore accumulation (as opposed to sucking out of the room).
Nope, we're sucking air out. We run negatively pressured grow rooms, and the only way to do that it to pull the air out. Blowing air in causes backflow into the rest of the facility, which is awful.
At 12:21 it shows your ceiling frame lined with plastic, I’ve been looking for plastic like this. Anyone know what this material is or have an resources for how to get it or install it?
Actually it doesn't need to be at the floor. The rate at which the room vents air the co2 doesn't have time to settle. I have confirmed this via co2 sensors. I need the vent up top to bring the humidity laden air up.
My grow room is a 4' x 8' x 6' our temperature in our basement during this winter is 20 to 21 degrees centigrade. I placed a 4" fan with moisture of 80. But my oysters and lions mane has very low production. What will i do to produce more. Thank you.
