Growing Large Plants Indoors  

Thank you :)

I thought the same ❤️

Okay I thought I heard German!!!

South African for sure

@@fredtodhunter2643 hes in Australia

@@xij3505 doesn't mean he's Australian buddy

Thank you Sandra and happy growing :)

Thank you :)

Thanks :)

Thank you :)

Danke Domi :) happy growing

Thanks :)

Yeah, I actually didn't want this plant (even though I collect Monsteras) before seeing yours! Great job Jan!

Thanks :)

@@sydneyplantguy thank you so much

@@sydneyplantguy problem

Thanks for watching :)

Thank you :)

Mould is down to poor air flow! Windows open, and fans are great for helping with mould. He mentions it in this video at 3:46 :)

Thank you so much Helen. Great they are of value to you :)

Plants are unpredictable. Just take it for what it is, you can’t force the plant :P Sounds like everything is working out just fine & the plant is growing, so just enjoy it :)

And thank you :)

Thanks :)

Thanks :)

Thanks :)

Thanks :)

Cheers :)

Thank you :)

Thanks :)

Thanks :)

Thanks :)

Thanks :)

Thanks :)

Thanks :)

Thank you :)

Thanks 😊

Thanks :)

Thanks :) happy growing

Thanks :)

Thanks :) happy growing

Thanks 😊

Happy growing :)

Happy growing :)

To understand my lighting situation check out my house plant tours. 80% of my plants get natural light only

Thank you :)

Thanks :) works with any climbing aroid :)

You could try coco chips but haven’t used them myself

No worries :)

Thanks :) i’m out of wishlist plants haha :D

@@sydneyplantguy I am just so happy for you..thanks for bringing us so much joy...I am thankful you are on youtube since I do not use any other social media...I would get to sucked in and have decided not to....but still tempted with IG...but I think I could not handle seeing all the beauty out there....so I just stick to watching youtube! Thanks I just got a queen anthurium in the mail today! That also made me smile to add to my collection.....see you soon...love from MN

It’s in a mix of half perlite half coco peat. It grows dense over time if you give it lots of light :)

Thanks :)

The fertiliser brand is tagged in the description. I just mix it into my water as per recommendations on the bottle :)

I linked their instagram in the description :)

Instagram hashtags haha :D

@@sydneyplantguy Cheers - I’ll start with your tags and go from there then! Hopefully won’t spend all my hours/end up with too many new wishlist plants as a result… 🧐 😅

Thanks :)

It’s algae build up, not the moss coming back to life. It’s not harmful & the shape of the pole wouldn’t influence it

Never heard of them 🤷🏻‍♂️

Thanks :)

I have never measured sorry. Maybe check out houseplantjournal in instagram! He’s a wealth of knoweldge when it comes to light

As I said in the video I don’t measure light so I have no idea about that :) i just do trial & error. The light intensity would definitely depends on the species though. I’m sure there is a handy excel spreadsheet somewhere on the internet about this :)

@@sydneyplantguy On the same note, do you expect your plants to receive the same intensity through all seasons? In nature, that's not the case right? So do you supplement with artificial light?

It depends on the plant you're growing but mostly at what stage it is. We also don't use lumens to measure light for plants because this unit isn't relevant for plant growth since not all wavelengths are equally absorbed by the plant, we use PAR or PPFD instead. For example, Cannabis (which has been extensively studied, contrarily to most of our collection aroids) needs about 100-200PPFD at the seedling stage, 300-600PPFD during the vegetative stage and as much as >1200PPFD during the flowering stage if I remember correctly. You also need to change the light spectrum to optimize growth during the different stages with blue (cold white) being best for vegetative growth (mimics spring lighting) and red (warm white + red) for flowering (mimics end of summer/autumn lighting). Since we grow most of our houseplants for foliage, I'd recommend a cold white LED for more aggressive growth or for young plants. That being said, a warmer white mimics best the type of light you get under a canopy, which is where most of our houseplants come from. Photoperiod (the number of hours during which there is light) is also crucial. Most people recommend using a 12/12 schedule for aroids but I've talked with an aroid re-seller who used an 18/6 schedule with a lot of success; the plants I bought from him were very healthy and fast-growing even when I put them back under my 12/12 schedule. That's about as much effort as I'm willing to put in this explanation. Just like Jan suggested, I'd recommend to learn how to read the signs a plant can give to understand if you're giving it too much or too little light and do some trial and error. A lot of these signs are also intertwined with nutrient deficiency or excess so you have to consider all parameters at once. Also, bear in mind that you may be giving your plants enough light but not enough water, nutrients or proper temperature and humidity, so it'll still give you signs of too much light while the actual cause may lie somewhere else.

As I mention in the introduction, this is for climbing aroids :)

Light is the most important :)give them as much light as you can give them but with north facing windows you might need to supplement with growlights :)

@@sydneyplantguydo you have a specific grow light that you recommend?

No idea sorry 🤷🏻‍♂️

Too much light will cause leaf deformities indeed. I've noticed this a lot with different Philodendrons and especially when using Superthrive or with plants growing in pots that didn't have enough holes for the roots to breathe. Oddly enough, the only deformed Monstera deliciosa leaves I'd seen happened in low light, but I suspect that the actual cause is an excess of water (plants drink less in lower light, so the soil stays drenched for longer and problems such as root rot emerge). So my tips for you would be to make sure your substrate is light and very well-drained, that the pot has holes on the bottom but some holes on the sides help tremendously too and that you don't water your plant too much. I personally water my Monsteras 2 times a week but they're under a powerful grow light, in a very airy and chunky soil mix and they are thriving! As long as the leaves don't burn or go paler, chances are your plant isn't getting too much light. Also, Monsteras fenestrate a lot more under more light. Good luck!

@@nackedgrils9302 thank you so much for the advise. I did have my props in terracotta until a couple weeks ago when I switched to some nursery type plastic pots with plenty of holes. My substrate is very airy also. I’m hoping things will take a turn for the better real soon. The leaf coloring and variegation is awesome just the leaf size is real small amd a little deformed. They all have new leaves ready to open so only time will tell! I appreciate it very much!

Yes, i grew up in Germany :P

They grow so quick :) it will mature soon i’m sure :)

Do you think the wood is better than the moss pole?

Hey, i don't buy them online, I buy them locally in store at bunnings

Sounds perfect :)

It’s because i put the nursery pot into a heavier decorative planter

Should i touch my monstera roots to add better mixture on the soil now in winter or just wait till spring? Thanks

I repot anytime of the year as long as the plant is healthy and continues growing. But really depends on how harsh the winter is where u live. You could always just wait

@@sydneyplantguy thanks Plant guy! Appreciated your reply! Im in Brisbane.

Thanks :) i haven’t had a whole lot of experience with thrips (lucky me) so nothing really to share about them :P

The variegation is random so nothing you can do about it apart from strategically cutting it to hopefully have it re-shoot with more variegation.

I have a specific moss pole tutorial :) check it out :)

Should be fine :)

Works either way

Water

No