I have never in my life seen someone with as much knowledge about an engine as you Mr jafro. I sold my import years ago and am now working on an old gm project, but watch all of your videos and enjoy them very much! Even though I'm working on a much different project, your little tips and tricks help me every day. Thanks for all you do, and keep up the excellent work.....we're all watching!
I used a 1G block with 2G oil pump, crank hub, and oil pan on my 6G72. Had to modify the idler pulley adjustment bracket to get it to work. But, the deeper and narrower pan made my exhaust fit a lot better and provided more clearance between the pick up tube and the bottom of the pan. Great video that covers the things no one else cares to take the time to publish but bite you in the butt if you do not plan ahead and do your homework. Thanks again!
man youre a life saver! in a week or two im going to start a 6 bolt swap on my 2g because my friend offered me his running 6 bolt out of his GST for $300. my 7 bolt is garbage due to spun bearing that destroyed the crank and send so much debris to the other bearings as well. ill save what i can off of the engine though. hes giving me everything i need for the swap for the $300. Your video right here helped clear up some confusion. Great videos man. (i know this vids a year old) Keep them coming!
Hi good day. My name is Nizam I have a 4g63 syrust engine I bored the block 40 tow and she run real good .what app do you used to order parts. Am from Trinidad West Indies
Awesome. I love watching these vids pure entertainment at its finest! I feel like we all that watch theses videos should be paying for them. thanks for the vids and keep up the good work
Jafro! be very careful using that timing belt tensioner tool. I used one while doing my cam swap a while back and the tip broke off right behind the tensioner pulley. I had to pull out everything just to get that little piece out and turned a 1 hour cam job into a 4-5 hour job looking for the stupid little tip. Make sure to lube the thread and tighten it incrementally when doing so.
I see you found a use for the trash bags and the TIG finger :) I have no clue what is going on with this Google + deal but i'm not sure that I like it yet either. Good to see a video with some progress. Robert
How's it going JAFRO!!! Getting close to machining my block soon. Almost got all the bottom end pieces, this bottom end is starting to get pricey..never had a budget in mind to begin with. Though currently I need oil squirters since I picked up the NA block. Wondering if you knew a source to pick up a set.
Did I spot a tig finger in this video while you were welding? If so awesome! Looks like a lot of people check out Welding Tips and Tricks. Jody is an awesome welder!
Jafro, i have a simple and dumb question. Where do the 6 bolts come from and the 7 bolts? In your opinion which is better than the other? Im sorry im commenting on one of your older videos but i always go back and watch them over and over again even though i have an mk3 jetta with an 8v 2.0, and another mk3 jetta with a 2.8 vr6! Thanks Jafro!
Edward, the ONLY good race I had at Richmond Dragway up to 2005 was a 2,0L 8V turbo Jetta. I got him by a bumper, not a fender, not a car, a bumper. I tree'd him hard twice because of AWD, and on both races... If I had left my bumper at home, I would have lost. Its owner was a dynamite guy. There to have fun, just like me. I've never seen another one anywhere like it. He frankensteined that thing himself and probably knows more about what he's doing than I did. Out of respect for him, you won the Friday Night answer. There are several defining factors with the 4g63 and I'm going to nail them all down right here. 6-bolt is 89-92.5 production date. 7-bolt is 92.5+. In 2000+ model year cars with a 4g63, it changed from the SIRIUS I platform to the SIRIUS II. What that did is flip the timing side around to the opposite side of the engine bay. The SIRIUS I engines are the only ones where there was a 6-bolt/7-bolt designation. That designation refers to the NUMBER OF BOLTS that hold the FLYWHEEL to the CRANK and nothing else. The reason it's significant doesn't have much to do with holding the flywheel on. It has to do with the journal widths. The 6 bolt mains are nearly an inch across, and more than 3/4" on the rods. The 7 bolt main and rod journals are narrower, so the 6 bolts using bigger bearings can withstand a greater load. Considering the horsepower the turbo cars came with, they're both over-built... but the 6-bolt is just a bit more over-built than the 7-bolt, comes with bigger rods, and typically withstands 650hp on a stock rotating assembly with the right tune on it. I'd put the stock 7-bolt assembly down around 450-500hp. Evo people will argue with me, but their engine is different, and their transmission is MUCH different. When the 92.5 change-over in production occurred, some other changes occurred to the parts that bolt to the block, like the front case, the transmission bell housings, the transmission spacer plate, the water pipe, water pump, timing covers, thermostat housing and the diameter of the head bolts. The 6-bolt uses 12mm bolts, the 7-bolt uses 11mm bolts. 6-bolt rods are fatter, heavier rods than the 7-bolts, but the crank bore is the exact same diameter on both. The 7-bolt pin bore is 22mm, the 6-bolt is 21mm. Using actual 2g pistons on 1g rods requires either having the rods machined to accept a bigger pin. Using 1g rods in a 2g block is not worth the expense of machining because the whole rod needs to be cut narrower to clear the crank. None of the bearings are interchangeable. The main and rod bolts remained the same diameters on 6/7-bolt blocks, as did the crank's main and rod journal diameters... but the first-generation 7-bolt engines used different main cap assemblies than the second generation 7-bolts. The second-generation 7-bolts received a main bearing girdle, which in theory should make the bottom end stronger. Whether or not it did is debatable. At the very least it should have reduced the affects of harmonic vibration. That's part of the debate. For the top end, the cam's are interchangeable between all year and model DOHC 4g63 engines. What may be different on some years is how the cam angle sensors work. The intake ports on a 1g 2.0L DOHC head can hold 38 cigarettes each. A 2g fits an even pack of 20. The 1g intake ports are just enormous. Too big for their own good. But that all depends on what you're tuning for. Edelbrock proved that you could make a 1g intake port flow more by adding metal to it. The exhaust sides are mostly the same. The 2g parts that bolt to the head are cast thicker and less prone to cracking. All other behaviors are the same. Bore, stroke, base timing 8° ATDC ± 2° @ 750 rpms ±50, fully warmed up after the fans cut off and they even sound the same. Same timing belts, pulleys, Regardless of which engine, both transmissions utilize the same clutch. The bell housing bolts are different, but 5 out of 6 bolts fit when interchanged, so oh well. That means on a SIRIUS I or SIRIUS II car, either engine is a bolt-in install and can be installed by mixing and matching some parts, and doing minor grinding. Coincidentally, the outer dimensions of ant 4gxx series block is the same, only the deck height, bore and stroke change. Differences appear only in the changeover from 6-bolt to 7-bolt castings. That means they're great donors for 4g15, 4g61, 4g67, 4g69, and 4g64 cars as well. Swap out the motor mounts from the respective recipient and have a field day in your 2100lb (after-swap weight) Hyundai Scoupe for instance. Do some serious weight reduction and you can get that car to about 1650. There are some things to worry about concerning where engine mounts and transmission mounts bolt up that can disqualify you from using certain parts, for instance first-generation 89-94.5 cars have 1 transmission mount and 3 engine mounts, and second generation 95-99.5 cars have 3 transmission mounts and 1 engine mount. You can put a 1g block in a 2g car, but you can only use a 2g transmission because of this. The reason you'd want to put a 6-bolt in it is simple... so you can utilize the beefy main and rod journals on that 6 bolt crank. I wasted $3500 building a 7-bolt. It made great power for several years before I blew it up... but I could have made the exact same amount of power on a bone-stock 6-bolt for a lot less money. I wouldn't have needed to fit aftermarket rods and pistons... just a big honkin' turbo a fuel pump, a hack saw, injectors and engine management. Could have outrun myself for 1/4 the price. I'll never make that mistake again because all 4 of my project cars have 6-bolt 4g63's in them. It's really a dynamite platform. What's to hate about aluminum DOHC 16-valve heads bolted onto solid-decked cast iron blocks? I can't find anything? This is the combo I was brought up on only with half as many cylinders. Similar bore and stroke as well. Costs a heck of a lot less to build, too. I hope that clears some stuff up! Now if you'll excuse me, Gold Rush's season finale just started. I could go on for days, but at the very least I saved you a google search and several hours of reading to get an inside look at the DSM perspective.
***** You sure have saved plenty of Google searches, sorry for the late reply i made sure i situated myself so I can read and understand what you've told me, you're awesome! Made my day that you sat down and typed it all down yourself. It will take me a lot to process all this through but hey, the more you know! Thank you Jafro! You caught me off guard about that 8v 2.0 turbo, not many people choose the 8v 2.0, they'd rather go for the 16v or go right ahead with a VR6 swap lol
And if Mitsubishi thought the oil pumps needed a redesign, well, that is good enough for me. You would be proud of me. Took Highest WHP for an NA at this years Texas 3S Gathering.
So just to confirm, if I was to put a 6 bolt timing cover on a 7 bolt engine, it wont be a direct fit? Will I only need to make the motor mount hole bigger to accommodate the 2G mount, or do I also have to cut around the water pump as well?
Thank you so much your videos are saving my ass, im putting a 6 bolt block and 7bolt head in my 97 fwd eclipse and i have been going crazy trying to figure out whats needed. One question. the sensor that bolts to the front of the oil pump housing on the 7 bolt. and you have it shown in the video. what is that and will it bolt onto the 6bolt oil pump and function properly?!
Oil pressure sending unit. There's 2 of them on a '97. One's for the idiot light, and one's for the oil pressure gauge. Yes, they're the same sensor. Because I have the same engine as you, you should follow my parts videos because all of the parts and gaskets I show are the parts you need. ;)
now the other sensor im confused about is the cps and cas, so the 2g has the cps that mounts on the oil pump.... and the 6bolt block and pump don't have that mount... so what do i have to do with that
That all depends on whether or not you have balance shafts. If you use a Kiggly Crank Trigger kit because you don't have balance shafts, you can use your '97 sensor and your ECU won't even know you're using a 6-bolt block. If you're keeping your balance shafts, it's a different method than the one I'm using to sort out the crank trigger... but you use the 1g '91-94 cam angle sensor because it provides both the crank and cam signals. There's some ECU pin rewiring that has to be done, or some plug wires that need to be swapped around... but I'm going plug & play with the Kiggly trigger. All of that stuff is covered in my two parts videos. One is the timing belt service parts and the other is all the mods, bolts, and stuff that I've stockpiled. Kiggly stuff is in the latter.
i see! my 6 bolt block is manley pistons and rods, and balance shaft delete, brand new oem water pump and oil pump, and i'm doing the mod to the 2g motor mount and 1g timing belt cover like you did, new oem 1g timing belt tensioner & 1g tension arm, new pullies and gates racing blue kevlar belt. head is a stock 7 bolt head that's been gone though by my engine builder, cleaned and made sure everything is good. arp head studs(had the head drilled for the 12mm studs) all machine work on block and head has been done by him as well. trying to use as much 2g parts possible
I do it every time I change the timing belt. Only because it's my car and it's an interference engine. Some people get away with not changing it, but on any performance build I won't advise it.
You know what the doughnut shop means now. Please tell me you shot some more machine shop video. I loved watching the machine shop video where the crankshaft was polished. So technical, so awesome, such gearhead porn. I'm cutting the cord to Google+ and going to DailyMotion soon as I transfer over all of my vids. Hope you and others consider doing the same. I'll still visit your RU-vid channel and watch but I won't be able to comment anymore. Blame Google.
im a Veteran and i have always wanted to rebuild an eclipse. please stand by for a couple questions lol. also i live in Maryland and i seen you had a redskins hat on, i hope to be able to show you what i get done.
"I'm gonna plug this superfluous hole", "I don't need the whole thing just the tip", "I use my nuts to lock it down tight" ... It wasn't just that last part that was funny lol
I've never polished a Hyundai, but I did to lots of head work demos and block preparation for engine builds on both Mitsubishi and Hyundai projects. So... yes and no. Probably. :)
You should have a different flywheel, starter, engine spacer plate, and engine block than the ones that came with your car... and then it will fit. I cover all of this if you search "1gina2g". ;)
Krispy Kreme, yessir! It’s a must! Anything that saves hell later on, is worth spending time on beforehand. Headaches, nobody needs. Save yourself the hell, do it now so you don’t catch hell later! Duh!🙄😲😬😁
***** Oh thankyou my car came with a 6-bolt swap trying to learn all that went into it and correct any worng doing I really want to get a timing belt cover on it without pulling the motor it has a bottom half cover but it was cut.
All you need to do is buy the top 2 2g cover pieces and their mounting bits... and you're golden. ;) There are several different methods of installing a 6-bolt. There's the RoadRaceEngineering method, the Magnus method, and then there's the one I demonstrate here which is mostly the Magnus method except I rely on a 2g head, the original sensors that came with the 2g car, and an aftermarket crank trigger kit. The method I show minimizes machine work and eliminates the need for the 1g cam angle sensor or modification of the factory wiring harness in any way. Figuring out which method that was used on your car should be fairly simple based on the parts and machining discovered while taking it apart. If you have a 7-bolt front case, you have the RoadRace method. If you have a 1g cam angle sensor, you have the Magnus method. If you're using the 2g cam angle sensor, you should find a Kiggly Crank Trigger kit hiding inside the timing cover when you pop it off. :) If you were Magnus'd then your wiring harness might have been hacked, requiring your plug wires to be swapped. Either that or your wiring harness cam angle sensor wires being cut and spliced, or ECU pins swapped out to change the phase of the cam angle sensor.
"Remember to to torque the oil pump sprocket" This was not done when my engine was assembled, stub shaft fell out into the bottom end and killed the engine with oil starvation.
+BRENDAJASON1 It seems overwhelming at first but we you read it and reread the steps or watch and re watch this video its not as bad as it seems. Some of the steps Jafro does in the video don't necessarily have to be done. Instead of drilling a new timing tensioner tool hole, you can counter sink the water pump where the offending bolt goes and install a countersunk screw. That allows the tool to pass by it without hitting. Or you can just do nothing and just remove the tensioner and compress it with a vise or c clamp or whatever to compress it. Also instead of cutting the 6 bolt timing belt cover in half, you can just enlarge the center hole to fit over the 2g engine bracket. Of course though like Jafro say's, this will make it harder to do the timing belt service in the future. It's not impossible but it definitely makes it easier to do the service in the future.
+The Headless Horseman You're correct, it's really not that bad, and many of the steps I went through here were just because of my willingness to do them for my particular car. They're helpful and somewhat eccentric tips to make what is already a pretty easy swap-easier on yourself later on down the road if you have to be the one working on it. The countersink method is a perfectly acceptable solution, although it lines up poorly with this combination of parts, it will still suffice. Because I powder coated the previous block and have to do it again to a 6-bolt, I have to re-do that work to make the car correct for its show history. It wasn't a big deal for me to re-coat the mount and make it perfect, which is coated now... and it IS perfect... No modification is too difficult for my GSX. I'll go through great lengths to make it exactly how I want it. I'd have done none of this for the Hyundai.
If it wont fit, it will in a min lol :-)) For that bolt head in the way of the adjuster, i would have used a countersunk torks bolt and countersunk the hole, call me lazy.
Because I know in the real world NOT everyone is an English Lit major I try to see the meaning knowing full well that 's the important issue and NOT if all the T's are crossed or the i dotted ..I try not to sweat the small shit ....
It's a 6 bolt swap. There's a lot that needs to be changed wiring-wise. I don't know what equipment you have plugged in to it or how you're dealing with the missing crank angle sensor? What ECU are you using? Which head is on it and what sensors? Do the ECU year and the cylinder head and all of the sensors match? Help a brotha out. I'm a little bit lost. It sounds like an ignition problem, but there are a lot of variables to guess without knowing specifically what equipment you have. If you're not keeping ALL of the original sensors and installing a crank trigger, I would defer to any advice offered at DSMtuners because I'm cheating by keeping all of mine original and adding a crank trigger.
***** thanks for checking out the videos and getting back to me. Yeah it's a 6 bolt swap with a 2g head but I'm not sure what the year the head is from though seeing as I bought it already fully assembled from an abandoned build. I did however keep all original 2g wiring and sensors as well as the stock black box ECU. I'm also using the black top CAS to simulate the cam and crank signals. Everything bolted up and hooked up seamlessly up until I went to crank it and wouldn't start. Thanks for the help
What year 2g is it? It's a big variable. The CAS changed in '97. I have always read that you should use a 1g CAS for this swap because it's what provides a crank signal. My information may be older because I made up my mind to have a crank sensor years ago. 1g CAS sensors simulate the crank angle sensor as well. The 2g cam angle sensor doesn't. Depending on what year 2g ECU it is, the firing order might change because it could be 180° out of phase of where you need it. The firing order can be corrected by swapping pins on the wiring harness at the ECU connector which is the cleanest wa to do it, ECMlink is the easy more costly method because all you have to do is check a box... or you can cut and splice wires on the CAS wiring or coil pack. I'm not a fan of that, but it's effective. I've seen people deal with that lots of different ways. Some people just swap around their plug wires to change their firing order instead. The RRE method dictates doing extensive modifications to the 7-bolt front case to make it fit the 6 bolt block just so that they could maintain the crank angle sensor. I would recommend identifying the year of your ECU, wiring harness and cam angle sensor, perhaps even your coil pack, and see what's in the forums about that combination. There's better advice and information about it there than what I'll have here. I'll be the first to admit that. I've seen a lot of discussion, but I made up my mind to use a crank trigger kit and all the correct year factory sensors and signals my ECU expects to see. I don't want to deal with any of that mess or the random misfire CEL's that result from using a 1g CAS. I'm using a crank trigger kit making the whole swap plug-and-play. It just requires deleted balance shafts in order to install it... which will happen on this car because of how it's used and serviced. I'm late on the scene for my 6-bolt swap, and I'm cheating. It costs more, but requires far less effort. I understand that others may not be as fortunate, but are determined because they know what's to love about what they've got. The pioneers are in the forums, and they know which parts are out of phase with which other parts. I've never had to learn it? Beg my pard? Also check out Magnus and RRE. They've got GREAT write-ups.
***** I actually did a lot of reading on tuners, Magnus, RRE and dsmtalk about the swap prior to attempting it and came up with using the 1g cas and RRE's plug and play crank harness as the best and mostly used ways to go about the swap. I don't know if there's a way to identify what 2g head I'm running but I know for sure im using a 1g black top cas, black box ECU, and all the stock 1999 sensors. I tried changing the firing order at the coil pack as well as the head several times but none of it worked. I'm gonna do my best to identify what year my parts are as you suggested, I'm also gonna try switching coil packs, as I have about 3 of them lying around. I'll let you know how much progress, If any, that I make with that. Thanks again brother. Your help and input is much appreciated
Busted. At least it was un-paid and solely for your benefit. Edit: I thought this was the video with Aero-Kroil when I typed that. I'm busted there, too. I'll review things from time to time if they make my life easier. That wrench is not in production and I can only find it (affordably compared to new) in the used parts market. It costs about $300 to get them calibrated, so it's hard to find a bargain. I just like it because it gives me feedback.
