So many people listing bikes on Facebook marketplace don't put the frame size on the advert and don't know how to measure that. That's a key thing that I want to know.
I'd also add Gumtree. It may be location sensitive but down here in Hampshire I have picked up dozens of good value 90's mountain bike. Some for free, most for under £50, including mint Marins, kool Konas and super Saracens. Personally I don't think I've ever seen a plastic crank but yes if I did then I would not even consider the bike, it would be basically rubbish. I generally look for any of the previously mentioned makes plus Specialized and Trek. That covers 90% of what comes up. Personally I would also not be so quick to dismiss a bike with a threaded steerer. You can get adapters if you wish but especially on road bikes the 1 inch alloy stems look fantastic, much better that most modern 11/8 stems that just look a bit clunky compared with a 3t polished alloy stem. Otherwise well said on the rest.
All great points! And I kinda forgot gumtree. The threaded stem but was more about if you can find a 1-1/8 you have more options. Threaded definitely still has a place. 🙌🏼
I got a 1995 specialized rockhopper from a guy in lee on Solent for 15 quid the other day. It's in really good nick and I have fallen in love with it already. That was on gumtree.
@@matthewbourne659 Hi Matthew, Yes I saw that for sale and was seriously considering buying it but just have no space at the moment so I'm glad it went to a good home!
@@johne1956 I'm so glad you didn't buy it. I have been riding it to work and back, 8 miles each way and although the drive train is on its last legs it rides like a dream. I have decided to just upgrade the gears etc but keep the straight bars.
I hate dealing with a stuck seat post I have 2 frames I have to deal with that issue.... as for cheap bike I mostly hit my local swap meet but the real good deals come from the scrapers that drive around my neighborhood
I had a totally seized seat post that I eventually got out. I'd sprayed as much vinegar as I could get at it, and then stuck the seat post in a vice while two of us twisted the frame. It took enough force we were actually moving the bench that the vice was attached to, which also supported a drill press.
Definitely look at the crank. If the crank has bolted chain rings its usually a higher quality bike. If its a riveted crank/chainrings then it still may be a decent bike but its probably a mid to low level consumer bike and now it has to have some other redeeming quality like cool handlebars or nice paint. I've bought bikes just so I could get the crank.
Picked up a near mint MB-6 for $30. Keep looking. If they ask $100, you might arrive and find out a cable is bad, then tell them that will cost money to fix. Cut the price in half or more. I could not shift the front, went from $75 to $30. Avoid Shocks.
Style! Free or cheaper, less shipping cost vs selling price. How much of the parts I may want to replace. When in eBay always check feedback. 0 feedback = stole your money.
WD40 in the seat tube through the bottom bracket and grab a pipe wrench. You may need to get a piece of wood to wedge the frame so you can really wrench on the post. If you're clever you can set it up where it won't damage anything other than the seat post.
I have a 1996 Kona NuNu with full Shimano STX set up. I would love to see this reconditioned. Is it something you’d be interested in buying??? Cheers, Rob
The difference between someone selling a frame and a complete bike is not that much. You have to do some work to get the parts off the complete bike, but after a few bike tear downs, you end up with enough for a decent bike build. Big thumbs up to getting a bike with a threadless head set. Its almost impossible to find threaded forks that are the right length for a specific frame...too long, too short, not enough threading left...
Looks like its an ali seatpost.....ali + steel = chemically bonded together if left in damp long enough. I have wasted hours on some frames. Now, if using WD40 the night before and a long crow bar or similar don't budge it in 5 minutes, I sell it on as seen for pocket money.
Heating and freezing sometimes works. If not, caustic soda or galium. But both are a last resort. And with that soda, you can wreck the paint job(especially metallic ones, since they contain aluminium flakes)
yard sales garage sales estate sales and flea markets are always a great place to find vintage bikes and parts if you don't want to deal with the whole Online Marketplace gobbledygook found my 89 Rockhopper and my 1992 Haro Extreme that way
Heck no. It doesnt work. Penetrating fluid first, then heating/freezing it, then vice, if that doesnt work you would probably destroy the seatpost, caustic soda(the drastic way) or galium(expensive but works)