this is a great video. I'm actually in the middle of doing a conversion on this exact model. Its taking me forever though as I keep padding more functionality. I was going to make it just a 3 channel, but then I had to add ailerons, then flaps and now I mad custom retracts for it. Its pretty much done with the mods I just need to cover it now. Since I built my wing with flaps and ailerons I didn't build it with the polyhedral only the dihedral. Also instead of bands to hold the wing on its held in place with a latch and neodymium magnets.
@@JessHull there are a few Arrow conversion build threads at rcgroups.com including this one: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?362577-Guillows-Arrow-Conversion
How timely!! I built an Arrow over winter, for rubber band power, but never flew it. Now, I'm looking to build a new fuselage for RC electric, and recovering the wing with a monokote-type covering. Thanks so much this video and your next one!!
Drew, no worries and best of luck! Be sure to try a transparent MonoKote/iron on covering. The transparent coverings are significantly lighter that full cover iron ons. Tim
Very good to find this video as I happen to be attempting to do the exact same thing with the Arrow and the salvaged electronics of a tiny broken RC helicopter. Lucky me! I learned a lot from your videos (both parts) and will make some changes to my build. Much appreciated and thank you for sharing your experiences!
@@TimMcKay56 - Thanks. My biggest problem right now it to solder those hair thin wires to connect a correctly geared motor to the cable that used to plug the helicopter motor there. It's like neurosurgery.
I believe that the center of gravity is so far aft on those Guillows sport/endurance models because the stablilizers have ribs which gives the plane more lift in the tail than a flat stabilizer would.
Tim I would like your opinion on the following Servo to use with Ailerons on the Guillows ‘Arrow’ Aircraft or any other Servo that would be suitable to use with compatible Spektrum Electronics. Some e/bay sellers do not state whether the servos are compatible with Spektrum Electronics. Also there is Thrust, Torque etc that also has to be considered and confusing to elderly Glow Plug users of the nineties. Spektrum A2005 Ultra-Micro Analog 1.8g Linear Aircraft Servo. Servo Size Category Nano and Ultra-Micro, Servo Type Analog, Bearing Dual, Gear Type Nylon. Width 0.59" (15.0mm), Length 0.60" (16.0mm), Height 0.33" (8.20mm). Torque 2.8 oz (79.4g) @ 4.2V, Weight 0.06oz (1.80g), Connector Type JST-SHR. Servo Operating Voltage 3.2 - 4.2V, Speed 0.14 sec @ 4.2V. Regards Graham
The CG being farther aft, looking at your build video, the horizontal stabilizer seems to have a positive lift airfoil which would tend to move CG aft.
Many of the Guillow kits are updated with new plans and laser cut parts. The only way you can tell for the laser cutting is to see that it is mentioned on the box. Balsa wood quality a lot better with the laser cut parts as well. Tim
I see you’ve pinned the sheet balsa pieces to the plan by putting the pins through the parts. I was taught that this would split the part, and that the pins should be placed on each side of the part. The pins should be angled with the heads over the part. This holds the part down, as well as holding it side-to-side. Take care.
Jim: You are correct with pinning smaller balsa parts. Sometimes with these very lightweight models I'll accept a small amount of split wood, just CA things in place when done. Tim
Tim, I’m grateful for your great build video. I just purchased the Arrow and am following your build closely. I will be covering the plane with tissue. I see that you used what appears to be tape for elevator hinges. Did you install the tape before or after covering the stab/elevator surfaces? I can’t quite make it out from the video. Thank you, I’ve subscribed and always enjoy your work.
Jim: I use clear packing tape for the hinges and I add the tape after the model is covered (and painted, in your case with tissue). This method works for small, light models like the Arrow, as there is usually not sufficient force to have the tape lift off from the covering. But do check the seal from time to time. Tim
The SPAMAR6400 is actually 6-channel receiver, not 3 channel. Two servos and the motor controller are built into the board and you can connect 3 more external servos to it.
The ultra-micro units (sometimes called Parkzone ultra micro) can go in and out of availability. Best source is www.StevensAero.com Email them if further questions. Tim
It looks like that ParkZone motor is discontinued. Too bad. I've had an Arrow kit waiting for me to build it and was going to try the R/C conversion. Maybe I'll try R/C but with rubber power.
SCR: Depends on the vendor. If www.StevensAero.com has them, likely the best price. Otherwise do a Google search. The brick should be under $60, the motor around $20. Tim
Hello again. The aircraft has a stabilizer with an airfoil shape, it isn’t flat. This is called a lifting stabilizer, it adds to the total lift of the model. It’s not unusual on older free flight designs. It shifts the center of lift rearward. That’s why the center of balance is so far back. If you were to rebuild the aircraft from a crash, and built a new, flat section stabilizer, you would have to move the balance point forward, to about 1/3 the chord, to fly it. You’d have a new design, and you’d have to debug it yourself. I wouldn’t recommend fundamental changes to the aerodynamics of a design until you’re more experienced. Converting to RC, and adding control surfaces are fine, as long as you keep the needs of the model in mind. Good luck.
David: I have purchased music wire over the years from various hobby stores, that would be my first stop. Amazon.com has a wide range of music wire for sale, as do some of the craft stores like Michael's. When you do see music wire anywhere, go ahead and purchase it. Will last a lifetime and always nice to have the wire in your inventory to use when needed. Tim
Great video Tim did you take up the sport when you're retired are you retired? Must have been hard to find the time before that I didn't get into it till after I retired myself first I tried ham radio and then I tried airplanes and I don't have much luck with either one to be honest with you I hope you are doing well with it looks like you are
George: I have been modeling since I was a teenager, with breaks for work, family, etc. over the years. Plus I read (and crashed) a lot. Retired now, so time not an issue . 😃 Tim
You have done such a good job with this conversion, that the Arrow has become unavailable. Hopefully they will make more...lol. Also being a freeflighter and an R/Cer I was taught free flight, especially rubber powered needed to be balanced at the center of gravity. But a powered RC aircraft should be a bit nose heavy to stabilize a tendency to nose up or more accurately prevent porpoising during powered flight. Your thoughts?
Arthur: Jeez . . . you are right. A quick Amazon and Google search did not turn up anything. I even looked at www.Guillow.com, and the Arrow is listed as temporarily out of stock. Strange. One place to check out is Ebay, there may be a kit there. And, the Lancer or Javelin are pretty close, just a bit smaller with 24 inch wingspans until the Arrow back in stock. Ref your CG question, a tad nose heavy is certainly better than being even slightly tail heavy. To prevent porpoising, oftentimes the horizontal tail surfaces are too small, or there may not be enough positive wing incidence. Tim
Tim, I just came across your build of the Arrow and I liked it so much that I went out and bought one. I want to build with Ailerons so my question is, Would one third of the wings depth be to much for the Ailerons measurements.
Hi Tim, I have just bought an Arrow with ideas to rubber band fly it and then saw your excellent conversion video. I have never RCed and was wondering if I would possibly just smash it to bits on a first flight! Any tips on getting into RC gently or should I just do the conversion and risk the damage?
Arthur: The Arrow is a neat Guillows airplane, goes together well and flies just as good. It is a bit of a trick to install the RC gear, as it is a smaller RC model. But of all the Guillows models, the Arrow is probably the easiest for an RC conversion. Maybe try this approach: Find a good, smaller size ARF to learn how to fly RC. An instructor at your local club field will help a LOT. Build the Arrow as a rubber band free flight, to get that under your belt. Next, get some experience with building at least one RC kit. I have a video on the www.StevensAero.com QuickOats plane, flies great. After that, build a second Arrow with the RC gear. Good luck! Tim
Real nice plane, very useful informaiton for a begginer builder. I want to teach me and my 8 yearold sone to fly. Do you have a recomendation for a trainner plane pusher (foam or balsa , outdoors with 7mph wind speed)? Thanks
Alex: I think you will find the Radian, available at Horizon Hobby, and very suitable three channel trainer. Also, the RealFlight computer simulator is a huge help with learning to fly RC. Tim
@@daviddavids2884 Many thanks for the videos . I will try to find something like that , but my building skills are not high yet. I will need very detailed building instruction and plans...i think the second one does not have plans. I only have easu access to 5mm dollar tree foam or pink foam from home depot. I already built one pusher but wind ir not strong to resist crashed and abuse from the beginer pilot. I will keep searching , thanks agan. Thanks again, Alex
Tim Just one question on the Fuselage Is there ant trick to building the Fuselage Straight ? i am more or a foam modeler and in the past building a balsa fuselage like this i got a twist . I do have the Arrow kit on hand but the plans give NO full size bottom view . I have seen some modelers use jigs to keep the fuselage straight but not sure if this is needed on this one ?? Any suggestions would be most welcome
Larz: No worries. Step One is to get a flat building board. I have a Guillows board that has been fine for past 30 years. For the Arrow fuselage, mark a center line in each former. Glue the formers in front of the wing leading edge and at the wing trailing edge to one fuselage side at a 90 degree angle. Use a plastic drafting triangle (Amazon, Dollar Tree) to ensure it is 90 degrees. Then, draw a top view on a blank piece of paper with a centerline and the two fuselage sides, as well as the nose former. Glue on the other fuselage side, with the centerlines on the formers on your hand drawn top view. When glue dry, carefully bring the fuselage ends over the plan centerline, glue in place. Do the same for the nose former. Remember, this is not building an Apollo moon rocket, just work to keep things as straight as possible. Tim
Zac: Yes, you can add ailerons. I'd remove the polyhedral in the wing first to allow the ailerons to have effect. The model does fly well on rudder and elevator, for what it is worth. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 - Stabilizers with control surfaces are done. Now for the hinges. They need to be super light obviously but I think even the 1/8" pin hinges available for park flyers are too big. Maybe I am wrong. What did you use for hinges in this build? Thank you for your advice!
Tim, I tried to do an RC conversion on a guillows javelin and I had trouble installing the electronics it was a spectrum compatible board I got from Stevens aroe model. I think the main problem was that the control rods were too thick and trying to flex them to install them in the sides of the servos cause the wood to break apart.when you did your RC conversions on such airplanes as the javelin such as the arrow or the lancer did you use gauge control rod that was thinner and had to be fed through guide eyes or was it thick enough to stand on its own? Hey thank you for your help and guidance. George
George: Thanks for your note. Yes, keep the control rods as thin as possible. Ensure a "clear" run to from the servo to the control surface, zero binding. You will need either guide rods along the way or holes in balsa that the control rod goes through. Even though the music wire is very thin, if properly supported works just fine. The last 2-3" of the control rod will be sufficient to not flex and move the lightweight control surface. Tim
Edward: The brick is there at Horizon Hobby. I'll try and paste a link end this note. If the link does not come through, Google AS6410 DSMX 6 channel ultra micro AS3X receiver and ESC. Also, the tech folks at Horizon Hobby are super helpful. Good luck! Tim www.horizonhobby.com/product/as6410l-dsmx-6-channel-ultra-micro-as3x-receiver-with-esc/SPMAS6410L.html?KPID=SPMAS6410L&CAWELAID=320011980000236993&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=97846720982&CATCI=pla-899697922202&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkN78vbf66wIVga_ICh1x1AofEAQYASABEgIRg_D_BwE
