Glad you did this video. People ask me constantly, "what should I use in my AR?" I tell them motor oil and I use it all of the time. The response is usually, " I'm not using that in my $2K rifle." My response, " yet you use it in a $20K machine."
Yeah, brah, get skin cancer due to prolonged skin contact with the motor oil on the externals of the firearm. If you only apply it to the internals, there is really no functioning benefit because the long lasting lubrication properties of motor oil can't be realized because you'll be cleaning your firearm after every shooting session, anyway. The only reason to use motor oil on internals of a firearm is cost effectiveness of already having motor oil in your garage.
Well there young fella. As an ex mechanic I'm familliar with all these lubes plus some other less common ones. I'm not here to offer my opinion or be judgemental. What I want to say to you is that you have done your homework,you speak with experience and you have ann your shit together and your ducks in a row. As for the quality of your presentation,I would say that you've done a better and more thorough job than most I have seen on here. I would go as far as to say if you ever consider another career,become an educator. Thanks for a great job. Kudos.
Being a mechanic you must know car oil is a carcinogen where as gun oil not. Breathing in car oil after from a weapon that’s 4 inches from your face will do wonders
@@user-zm8mv7mv2uever breathed the outside air before? Millions of cars on the road with a proportion of them with blowby and other carcinogenic emissions. I don't disagree with you...but the scope of your argument does not consider other variables at play, and the point of this video is that oil is oil with similar components and branding/marketing on top. Any inhaled products combustion of combustion likely have negative health implications. Teach me otherwise, I'm dumb
@@OneSlySwan sure , if you have a bottle of motor oil read the warning sign on the back which reads , used motor oil is known to cause skin cancer with laboratory animals. Now to your question , outside environmental factors also include carcinogens such as driving on the freeway; brake dust, Diesel exhaust , carbon monoxide emissions which also contribute but EPA guidelines cars are equipped with cabin filters to decrease affects. Now to purposely coat your weapon with 10-40 oil , knowing research was developed to lessen your risk factor to cancer is entirely your decision. Logically ,I don’t understand the reasoning other carcinogen environmental factors are out there so I’m going to be selective what I think is harmful. I don’t see your point. The warning label is what it is! It’s there to protect you. Other oils are available which are not carcinogens
I'm laughing because my cousin, a mechanic, explained this to me and I was asking why do gun lube companies even exist really ... He said, "Money." lol
The reason to use gun oil is the addition of rust preventatives. while engine oil works great as a lubricant it offers very little protection from rust. Gun oil is especially important for firearms with bare steel and blued finishes.
Its funny, I started off with motor oil on my guns until my cousin told me I was a dumbass for doing It. Actually, I was a dumbass for believing him, now Im gunna go back to using motor oil lol.
I've been using 30w convential motor oil for my AR for the past 500+ rounds; for two reason's, heat tolerance and dirt removal suspended in the oil. I fire 1 'clearing' shot after each cleaning and my accuracy and wear and tear are better than acceptable and I skip the hype about 'gun oils' I printed less than .5" at 100 yards with a 16' barrel with a 1:8 twist in my AR. I've never experienced a malfunction of any kind with this set up.
Misterpoloytech; interesting, I too use synthetic 30 weight motor oil for my AR; I havent had one malfunction yet in over 200 rounds using 30 round Magpul mags. I also have more target shooting with less cleaning. I clean mly rifle every other time I go out and fire it with pinpoint accuracy. The oil provides better lube for less wear and lifts dirt and carbon away from the important parts, in all heat regimes.
What's the point of using motor oil on internals of a firearm when the internals should be cleaned every time when the firearm is at least moderately used? The long term lubrication benefits are not effected (don't confuse with "affected") because you're cleaning it off and applying new lubrication. And to use motor oil on the exterior receiver, barrel, slide, etc will only increase the probability of cancer due to prolonged skin contact.
@@Research_Lavon_Affair skin cancer is really only a risk with USED motor oil, not fresh oil. I'm sure "gun lubes" can be just a carcinogenic as conventional motor oil anyway...
Amen, Brother. I'm 62 years old, have been shooting since the age of 5, My dad taught me to use Motor Oil/Transmission Fluid for firearm cleaner/lube. Through the years, I have concocted my own formula, based on videos such as this, and library/internet research. Since 2003, I have been using this formula, with excellent results: 32 oz Mobil 10W40 Full Synthetic motor oil 32 oz Valvoline Dextron II Full Synthetic ATF 15 oz STP Oil Treatment 16 oz 10W30 SAE Motor Oil 30 oz Marvel Mystery Oil 1 oz Hoppe’s #9 (for scent) optional for about a gallon. Lasts me about 3-4 years.
@@mnrodriguez Maybe your Dad was like mine and saw all the propoganda from Remington that their oil is the best. I can say that from experience that it works great for door squeaks but not my hunting rifle.
I have been operating the M16 weapons platform for over 35 years " 22 yr's USMC " I use 2 stroke oil , usually synthetic it works in dessert and cold areas. It protects the operating system from over wear and overheat. Simple !
@@connorsurgeon8976 If it doesn't say " Synthetic oil " on the container , it's not synthetic . Any thin motor oil will work in an emergency or SHT situation. But not cooking oil , cooking oil has salt added and will rust your weapon. a " light coat " of 10W20 would keep your weapon going a lot better than no oil.
As an old guy from way back, I sure was waiting along time for someone to get a clue and rediscover, really, common sense lubing of weapons. Been using HD motor oil and synthetic Hi-Temp bearing grease in all my guns for awhile-and generally just because I had the stuff on hand for my Jeep ZJ and other vehicles AND IT WORKS. Thanks for a well done vid. You present well. Good job.
From strait leg Infantry guy, a street cop and a SWAT guy your spot on. Been running motor oil for years. Save your hard earned cash brothers & sisters, buy auto lubes. Good video sir..
Mobil 1 0w20 is what I'm using now for all my rifles and Pistols. Soo far soo good. It was hard to stop using amsoil. I still used amsoil to clean my guns.
dudes, mix 4 parts Mobil 1 synthic with 1 part Mobil 1 synthic transmission fluid. i have been keeping my bolt wet with this recipe for the last 8 years. Carbon just wipes off. Lube the upper reciever with Hi Temp High Pressure grease. Its 3.99 for a tub at walmart. I also use the grease (red color) on wear points on my glocks as well. fuck all the "gun oil" that is gun oil. The synthic oil stays fluid at -20. far cheaper and far better.
+uscgalpha91 I use a similar formula. Just a few minor tweaks to my formula. My last mix of a gallons worth has been in use for 6 years now and I still have 3/4 of it left.
Spot on. I found the same at an estate sale and mixed mine up. Looks like we are good till the next civil war on the year 2030 which ever comes first. When I clean my bolt I just wipe off the carbon and fouling (nothing sticks). I only shoot AR's with a wet bold. Also I lube the rails inside the receiver with Walmart Supertech "Multi Duty Hi Temp Grease" Its redish color and comes in a small peanut can and costs $3.99. I also lube my Pistols with the Grease and it works fab. We are all being overcharges massivly for gun lubricants.
+uscgalpha91 Trans fluid has detergents to aid in clearing the crud. Thanks for the recipe, I'm going to try it. Tired of paying $9 for a small bottle glorified lubricants.
For many years, I kept thinking "gun oil" is over price. It has to be another alternative that work and cheap. Now I found it, thanks for open my eyes.
This video saved my life i had steel case 308 that got stuck in the chamber every couple rounds after using some mobile one in the bore no more jams and guns stay protected longer. Aslo so much cheaper.
During my two tours to the Sand Box with the U.S.M.C., we encountered some of the worst conditions weapons can endure. The sand in the Middle east is fine “moon dust” similar to talcum powder. The problem is that when mixed with water or oil commonly used in cleaning weapons systems it turns to a mud like paste. We discovered that the regular issue Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant (CLP) [which is a Mil-Spec lubricant, sold commercially under the trade name “Break Free CLP”.] CLP was contributing to the problem more than fixing it. It is true that we cleaned our weapons daily sometimes two or three times depending on conditions and enemy activity. Our M16/ M4s would function properly as long as they were cleaned routinely. Problems would occur when troops were engaged for prolonged times and couldn’t risk breaking down their weapons to clean out all the dirt. We would simply pour in more CLP. An AR-15 type rifle will fire and function dirty as long as it is liberally lubricated. The problem is the more oil you pore down the bolt and into the chamber the more dirt it collects. What we discovered is that using Mobil1 synthetic motor oil usually in a 0w30 or 5w30 works much better than the CLP. At $10 per quart it is on the expensive side as motor oils go. But when compared to CLP or Rem Oil that are usually sold in 6 ounce containers at $5 to $6 it is much more cost effective. We also experimented with it on out crew served weapon systems. We found it to out perform the (Lubricant, Small Arms (LSA) used on the M2 (.50 Cal Browning machinegun) and MK-19 (40mm grenade launcher). I heard a rumor that the Marine Corps had experimented with synthetic motor oils as potential weapons cleaning lubricants. They determined them to be too effective and decided it would bring complacency as Marines might assume that they now had to clean their weapons less
I used Mobile One for years, and it worked great on the guns I used and cleaned regularly. But I noticed that with some of my guns, that I left in long term storage, were left with a yellow varnish type of crud on the parts, when the oil evaporates.( Yes, oil evaporates ) I was told by a guy who was a lubrication engineer at a gun show , who was selling a well known brand of gun oil , that those were all the additives left, that were added to motor oil, like zinc, index increasers, detergents, and so on, that you really don't need in a gun lube. I switched back to a top gun lube ( I'm not going to say which one, I don't want to be accused of being a shill for the company ) and that problem went away. I figure, some of my guns are worth over a thousand dollars apiece, so what difference does $32 for 16 oz of oil make. It will last me for many years. I mean hell, a box of 30-06 ammo costs that much. You guys go to the range, bumpfire hundreds of rounds, and then you are going to penny pinch over $32 ? Just my opinion.
I hadn't thought of that - the idea that motor oil contains some elements that are useful for car engines, but are unnecessary for guns. Come on, just say it - what's the gun oil you've decided to now use?
Actually one of the pluses of a synthetic oil is when it's applied to a firearm versus conventional motor oil is that it doesn't sludge up and create as much buildup in the firearm. It just shoots cleaner.
I will add here, last weekend I saw many guys pulling BCGs out and CLP'ing and cleaning a few times throughout the weekend. I don't know the exact number of rounds I shot but I'm guessing approximately 1,100. I cleaned with #9 and lubed appropriately with synthetic 10W-30 before the weekend, and I did not touch my AR even once for cleaning after that and it ran just fine and dandy. I guess I'm convinced from here on out.
Great info! We used motor oil on our machine guns downrange, and it worked perfectly. The absolute worst we ever dealt with was that weird powder crap that was over-sold to the Army around 2006. Terrible
When I was a young man, we used to observe the Russian troops clean their weapons after a firing exercise. They had a barrel of hot water and soap they washed their aks in and then they used motor oil on the bore and body grease, track grease on the bolt. I guess the water cleaned the corrosive primer debris off the gun, also the dirt.
Have read warm water bath is recommended for black powder or after firing corrosive ammo. I think the corrosives are alkaline, so helpful to add a bit of vinegar in the water... This degreased a bit, so lube quickly afterwards!
@@finngamesknudson1457 they are Acidic in combination with water, air humidity is enough to activate it. this is why you use dish soap or alkaline cleaners.
Here's What I use: 1 part 80/90, 1 part Dex 3 mercon. Works awsome!! Lucas red&tacky during warm weather/heavy shooting. I like using B-12 Chemtool, Kroil, and non-cfc brake clean for general and heavy cleaning. And don't forget good old pine sol and hot water!! Just make sure to dry the gun completely before lubing! Murphys oil soap to clean wood stocks, then linseed or pure veggie oil to finish them off :)
As a mechanic, when someone has asked me how an engine "works" first thing I tell them to get somewhat of an understanding is to tell them that all a piston is is a bullet attached by a rod that pulls it back into the barrel and shoots it again! So that's also why I personally have always used automotive motor oil. Single weight myself tho
I know I'm about 6 years and 2 months late, But Nice Video, full of info, I actually had a young firearms instructor ( about 25/8 yrs old ) tell the class, that Engine oil was all they used when he was serving in Afghanistan. I can see why you used the "Automotive Engine" to compare it to the AR cycling. But you forget an Automotive "Engine" has a oil pump and the heavy load cycling points being lubed are under oil pressure from the oil pump, keeping a forced layer of oil between the bearings and steel crank, cam bearings to cam ... with heavy oil splash and run off for everything else, like timing chain and gears, valve stems and guides, piston rings, with constant filtering. I think the BCG runs hotter than a 200 degree Engine, esp. on a fun day at the range or during a heavy fire fight. The one grease you did not mention was a high temp and pressure graphite grease or a graphite / oil mix, any reason not to or is it not a good option for lubing an AR BCG ? BTW Sorry for running on. I've been an auto mechanic for 40 years and a Hot Rodder for about the same time, so people that call Engines, motors, get under my skin. From what I learned back in the OLDEN days, Motors run on hydraulics, electric, air pressure or a combo of those, everything but, burning fuel... lol.
Using motor oil on your firearm is ok if you're a Somali pirate or a jihadist in the Boko Haram insurgency. But those who have regular access to civilization and $5.99 should use an oil formulated specifically for firearms. Motor oil is for motors. Gun oil is for guns. Motor oils are made to attract and trap dirt and grit in the form of sludge. Gun oils are formulated to repel dirt (or at least to not attract as much) and if they do, they're thin enough to carry the grit out of the action and toward the earth. They're designed by petrochemical engineers who learned more about lubricants in one semester at Penn State than most of you know about beating your own meat. And speaking of that, next time try that with synthetic motor oil. It works fine on a 5.4 dual overhead cam, right? What's the difference? You can eat grubs and rats to survive if you really have to, but if you could get a marbled rib-eye, seared and charcoal grilled, why the hell wouldn't you?
Synthetic transmission fluid for me.Overnight soak and BOOM! Wipe off excess and go bock to shooting. I also clean my receiver with it. Hoppes #9 for inside the barrel.
Motor oil versus manual transmission/differential oil? From what I know, motor oils have quite much additives designed to deal with combustion products and protection of emissions equipment. Meanwhile manual trans/diff oils do not have that and are rated for higher hammering loads (extra anti-wear additives), what actually happens in gearbox when gears meet each others. So the question is - assuming same price and same availability, what should I pick up from the shelf for my firearm lubrication, motor oil or manual trans/diff oil? Thanks.
In the past, I regularly put 2,000-4,000 rounds down range every 1-4 weeks. I don't know how many rounds total, but I have or have had standard issue Colt ARs that have had 50,000 to 60,000 rounds (per rifle - same parts), and counting, through them using this method. Graphite is a great, multi-purpose item to have. Muzzle blast and other crap doesn't stick to it, doesn't get in the way of moving parts, works as a lube and does not corrode. Besides you can safely scrub soot of your weapons with a pencil. Won't scratch. Hoppe's NON-toxic gun cleaner, a bore-snake, tetra grease (use extremely sparingly, "a dab will do ya") and a mechanical pencil. (Add a chamber brush for rifles, particularly ARs). FOR TACTICAL REASONS: It helps if your enemy can't smell your weapon cleaning solvent. www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_17?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=hoppes+elite+gun+cleaner&sprefix=elite+gun+cleaner%2Caps%2C181&crid=I80VXR1ZIK2N www.amazon.com/Tetra-004B1I-Grease-1-Ounce-Blister/dp/B0014VVNZU Accurate 1st, Speed a close 2nd. Train, train, train. There is no substitute for skilled experience.
After every match (6+ times a month), my striker fired pistols get disassemble. Then I spray all parts (except the striker assembly) with a clp and blow out the dirt and grime with an air compressor. The barrel gets a bore cleaner and a thorough cleaning. The striker parts all get cleaned with alcohol and reassembled dry. Once everything is clean, I apply a very light coat of High Temperature, High Pressure aircraft wheel bearing grease to anything (except the striker assembly) that moves. This grease provides unfailing lubrication in any situation that a firearm can throw at you, and when it's time to clean up again EVERYTHING comes off real easy! As a former engineer for a jet engine manufacturer (and jet pilot) I found that engine oils are designed to 1st Cool, 2nd Clean (filtered), and lastly Lubricate an engine. We don't normally have cooling issues or oil filters on our weapons, so that leaves friction and pressures that have to be dealt with. You can use an oil if you want to, it is better than nothing, but certainly not the best. Just saying...
Great vid. I would just add that there are two main benefits to using synthetic motor oil. 1. It is barely affected by the cold temps. The pourability rate is very consistent, even at extremely low temps. 2. The detergent package is usually better. Sounds weird to bring up about guns, but it makes a difference. The difference is, they are easier to wipe clean. I agree with you though, if I lived down south, I'd run conventional motor oil. Thanks for the kick ass vids. I learn a lot on each one.
I use 0W-20 synthetic I also use 0W-40 Castrol synthetic Works great in my guns "gun " oil is nothing more than Castrol repackaged in many cases Why spend the money on so called "gun" oil A quart of Castrol synthetic is all you need Great video Your channel is awesome
I use Motor Oil too , besides being cheap and effective, the detergents in Motor Oil that keeps Your engine clean also helps to soften the carbon build up and makes cleaning easier.
The most important take away is use lube. We can argue semantics. But lubrication is king. Whether is Rem Oil or Bearing grease either is better then none.
In my country AK is the service military weapon, Russian factory recommend oil as a lube, car oil in ok but never never use grease.interesting information but remember, cars has a cooling system + 4 to 5 quart of oil.
Synthetic oil has a pour point that is better than regular motor oil under extreme cold conditions. It stays fluid up to -45F while most motor oils will stay fluid to -33F and a secret oil is transmission oil that stays fluid to -55F.
You are completely correct. Rust forms when , oxygen (a corrosive) acts on the raw metal. Oil,….grape jelly, cat poop, chapstick, or johndeere green applied to the metal , will stop the oxidation. I prefer oil though….ANY OIL It’s recommended that you use oil though. Let me ask everyone a question, in 1849 when you had your fathers Brown Bess from the revolutionary war….what would you treat it with? Whale oil? Lamp oil? Bear grease?…….YES…..any of the above. Remember They didn’t have fancy oil. I get crap all the time from people when I use my 0-20 Walmart synthetic for $17 / 5 quarts….on my guns. I tell them “ show me the comparison “ and can’t. Arguing this very point …right now.
Yep Hi Temp lithium grease and synthetic motor oil (_Castrol Magnatec as of late_) is pretty much all I have used for the last few years. Another great video bro!
I agree with you. Guns are just metal on metal. You lube the metal, not a gun. Inexpensive auto lubricants work equally well in guns too. 10w 'gun' oil is actually free for many. If you change your own oil, there's enough left over to share with your firearms. My lawnmower takes 1.2 qts. That's .8 qts left over. 10w oil is super, super cheap.
Daelkyr I use mobil 1 5w30 synthetic, that's what my truck takes. it takes 7quarts and I buy 5 quart jugs and fill up an old hoppes bottle. synthetic oil leaves a slick film even if you wipe it off. even after I clean my guns with hoppes and it evaporates my guns still feel like they have a slick coating on them. it's desighned to help during cold starts when your engine bearings are dry in that 1 to 2 seconds before your oil pump pushes oil through your engine. conventional oil doesn't but like he said I don't think you will ever run your gun enough to dry it out.
Motor oil works just fine. The only exception I would make is if you were going to store a gun long-term and not use it , or keep it in a high humidity place. Specific gun lubes do offer a better protection against rust.
There are other reasons why "gun" oils exist other than marketing. I will not argue that motor oil will be just as effevtive as a lubricating agent for fire arms; however the motor oil is quite toxic and releases a great deal of fumes. There are oil caps to reduce exposure to these fumes which intesify as the engine heats up. No one wants to stick their face anywhere near the vicinity of motor oil and lets face it (pun intended), your face is exposed quite consistently to the exposed workings of a rifle or pistol during opration. I can get specialized gun oils fairly inexpensively and will stick with them.
Wow! I have walked into countless gun shops looking for the right gun lube. I have asked many people if motor oil is OK to use on my ar15. I am new to the gun culture and the community, and I was just curious. My thought process is unconventional. You pretty much answered my question better than anyone has, ever. Thank You, I appreciate the information. People man, I swear they were looking at me fucking sideways and shit like i was out of my damn mind lol.
Thank you!!! I suspected this all along. It seems that when you put "gun" or "boat" in front of everything, including oil, the price gets jacked up beyond all reason. Thanks again.
Fun fact about engines: they have optimal operating temperatures between 180 and 220 ish degrees (Farenheit). Not only are these oils holding up with parts rubbing up against each other hundreds of thousands of times in a single session, but they're built to be at home in intense heat.
How well does motor oil: 1. Inhibit lead, copper and carbon build up? 2. Remove lead, copper and carbon that that do manage to adhere to the surface? 3. Inhibit corrosion? From where I sit, I have a pretty good deal with Slip 2000. I use EWL to clean the gun. The excess is wiped off with microfiber and q-tips, leaving a thin protective coating. Then I put EWG on the slide rails, and then I put EWL30 wherever it says to put gun oil. These three products cooperate and don't fight each other.
I love Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube II Oil and Universal depending on the firearm and temperature. It stays in place and it's slick as snot. It isn't as cheap as motor oil but it's costs less than FrogLube or the other fad lubricants.
When I get done changing oil in my Harley I let the 20w50 synthetic drip out of the bottles into an old baby food jar, it works great on the AR BCG's. and the Amsoil is made for high heat motors. this works great in the Glock slides and the 1911's. I don't use the 20w50 on everything but for slides and bcg's it don't get any better!
I’ve used motor oil since 1968 when my armorer turned me onto it. He said think about it kid, companies spend millions on this shit, it works. A quart will last me two years. I’m 72 now and I’m still running motor oil. And all my guns run perfect
Mobil 1 + ATF works very well in cold and hot temp. ATF will work by itself, it helps clean out the gunk, but can mess up finish on some wooden stocks and Mobil 1 seems to buffer that effect. Mobil 1 coats the parts with graphite(?) and other stuff, so it lubes even after the oil has evaporated.
Break Free CLP is good and pretty cheap. It is effective in a wide range or conditions. If the military was only going for cheap, they would use motor oil.
+Johnny Pea I was a gunsmith in the army if someone in the army use motor oil in any gun his going to have a huge penalty but do you want to start a war against the stupids ? i don't
Grease is SHIT. It is designed for old steam locomotives and wheel bearings. Use a good quality oil and maybe clean and lubricate your gun a little more often, like every time you go to the range.
@Mark Belk I second that Mark. The Yankees can have that SHIT. I wish there was a way to solve the problem of them moving down to Florida for the Winter. Especially the New Yorkers and Canadian's.
The military tellsl you to use CLP because its not loaded with zinc and phosphorus for anti wear . Engine oils are meant to be used in a enclosed crank case. You breath in the Vapor cloud when fire your weapon and you will probably get cancer. Just stick with milspec. Engine oil is not what you should be using at all. I am chemist at a large lubricant company and we strongly recomend that engine oil stays in an engine crankcaase. Use Milspec certified firearm llubricants.. I believe you can buy milspec lubes. Should have a certification from ARDEC like G96 and Break free,. I believe LMT and BCM recomend G96. Bio lubes will freeze with to much organic material no go. ARDEC is moving to dry film Lubricants with the newer Polymer derived ceramic coatings. We are using these coatings for EV "S. These coating already going through long term testing in small arms.
I use Slick 50 for points that require oil and have for years. Points that require something heavier like the sear areas bolt lugs etc I use a thin coat of white lithium. General corrosion protection I use Marvel Mystery Oil. Slick 50 is fairly expensive but will last for a long time with minimum application to the surface applied to and works exceptionally well.
This is the second time I've watched your video, and I agree with all that you say, well done. This time I thought I'd share a unique experience with you. A few years back, I was cleaning and generally refurbishing the M1Garands which my VFW post used for funerals. The guys had little or no experience in tearing them down, nor did they have any dedicated tools for the task. I'd completely dismantled six of the rifles, replaced all of the operating springs, thoroughly cleaned everything, and also replaced any questionable parts. I'd even gone so far as to purchase the most authoritative text every written on the M1. The grease issued to the troops in WWII was very similar, if not identical, to the red bearing grease sold at the local auto parts stores today. There was an adage which ran through most schools of thought back then; if it slides--grease it; if it turns--oil it. Just a drop and just a dab. In fact the manuals which dictated applying grease instructed to just apply it thin enough that you could not see the color of the grease. (Then, as today, those pieces in the field were going to be serviced daily--unless the owner is an idiot.) Well I had one particular rifle which would not properly feed, nor eject a full en bloc clip of eight rounds, regardless of what I did. I replaced every part in the feeding mechanism except the bolt and the op rod. Even rebuilt the bolt's extractor and ejector along with the springs and the spring in the magazine's retention bar on the left side of the receiver. Still, the rifle would fire two or three rounds and fail to feed or try and toss the clip--which didn't fully depart the weapon as it still had to much weight from the remaining rounds. Obviously, it was out of timing, but what was causing it was a mystery. I spoke to many experts around the country, still unable to resolve the issue. I finally contacted a local gent who owned three or more M1s and took the rifle over to him. We sat down and discussed what I'd done, the results I'd had and then he also field stripped the piece and determined that every thing seemed to be in proper order and good condition. At that point he says let's try this, taking a large gob of bearing grease and slathering it on all of the internals, including the raceways, bosses & lugs and finished with, now try it. I took it out back, loaded a full clip and all eight fired without a hitch. I reloaded and a second clip of eight fired off as fast as I could pull the trigger. Once again proving, there may always be an exception to the rule, and you better be prepared to think & play outside of the box. BTW, thanks for your video. If I every am able to use all the products I have on my bench, I'll stick to bearing grease and motor oil for lube after that. Also agree that after de-greasing a part, for any reason, it should then be wiped down with a very light coat of oil.
Hey man you really did your homework that was some real good information I always thought about using motor oil in all my guns but was afraid it would damage them but after this information I will never pay high prices again for gun lube. Thanks and keep up the good work.
You can also use 91% isopropyl alcohol as a solvent for removing dirt, debris, and carbon fouling and it works just fine. You can buy it in bulk for 10 times less than "gun solvent" you just have to lube everything after using it because it will degrease everything, but you should be lubing your gun after cleaning anyway rather then relying on whatever oil is left behind after your fancy gun cleaner evaporates, the best part is when it evaporates it does't leave any odors behind like some gun solvents do, and when you inevitably knock it over and spill it all over your floor it will just evaporate and you won't have just dumped $30 into the carpet.
Just a clarification, synthetic oil reconditions rubber seals better than conventional and keeps them working longer. It does the same thing on steel as conventional.
Very good simplistic explanation on how to keep money in your pocket for more guns or more ammo. I bought a box of surplus LSA oil in bottles back in the 70's. I still have a couple of bottles left and it works too. Lucas Oil is great stuff as Mobile 1. Conventional oil sometimes has an odor while burning that irritates my sinus. Loose as a Goose use grease, Right Tight use motor oil.
Great video! You hit on a very good point about the over branding of specialized lubes. Take bicycle lubes they are often about 3-5$ per FL.oz. but the duty cycle is so light anything would work.
not gonna lie, i didn't read most (any) of the other comments, i use aerosol spray silicone. my father was a machinist and gunsmith and taught me that lube is important in any gun action, lube that isn't sticky won't attract dirt n dust, lube thats not thick won't cause tolerance problems and unlike oil based products won't thicken with cold temps and unlike graphite based products its cleaner and won't cake.
Not exactly, Motor oils ore constantly flowing through a filter that removes particles, carbon often. Motor oil, being an oil will drain from parts. setting over time. Synthetic a little less. Oil temps in a vehicle are subjected to vastly cooler temps than a running gun during a class or an engagement. The vehicle oil has a cooling system that reduces the building temps and passes that heat out either through the radiator or cooling fins as in a motorcycle. Rule of thumb if the parts slide on another part use a grease if the parts rotate around an axle or pin a oil consistency item. Automotive greases aren't designed to resist attracting debris, where some firearm greases are. The drag that automotive grease creates isn't there in high end firearm grease.
Julian P. It’s so funny that the most intellectual response on here doesn’t get any replies. But thanks for this. All that he was sayin in the video was very convincing and I knew there had to be something he was missing. And this definitely was what he missed.
Motor oil is used in applications with clearances measured in the thousandths.... Temperatures in excess of 800 plus degrees . Yes , there is a filter...its a closed system and filters are about 60% effective, thats why you must change your oil. Automatic trans fluid takes an even harder beating...high temps, basic fiber filters, even closer tolerances and higher pressures. You change that about ever 25000 miles or so. No gun will even undergo that type of punishment. Automotive lubes are perfect for weapons...... 25 years ASE Master Mechanic.
Edward Harrison 25000 miles for a trans fluid change? You stuck in the 80s? Most cars now have 100k mile intervals for trans, as well as spark plugs. Oil changes intervals are lasting 10k miles.
Meanwhile the gun industry tries to sell us scented canola oil. I don't know, maybe I'd trust the automotive guys over the canola oil guys, but that's just me.
I have used motor oil mostly synthetic but I keep going back to slip 2000 EWL I love this stuff it is high may not do much different but all my guns have run 100% using it so I just stick with it
You didn't talk about the draw back of oil, more so for grease. it attacks debris and hold's it. Dust sand grit will be stuck to youre lubed surfaces indefinitely with oil. I think the gun lubes are designed to fight that. Maybe the best use of motor oil would be extended storage because it's not gonna dry.
All oils do that and the point of that is to keep it from holding still, allowing the action itself to easily push garbage out of the way so the gun will function.
I just bought an Aero Precision AR15. I got the M4E1 Enhanced Upper with a 20 inch barrel and the M16A4 lower. Glad I watched this video I will only be using 10w-30 synthetic oil. Going to breaking it in right!
I personally use LP lithium Grease it's nice and thick keeps the surface that has a lot of friction during the cycling process slick and it preserves the metals and it's extremely high temp resistant!!! Works great and you only spend 10 bucks on a tub at your local auto parts store that will last you for what seems like a life time!!!
Mobil-1 on all my guns. AR's run slicker than snot, 1911's, 9mm's, etc. The only gun I still use a little Tetra grease, is on the receiver and bolt of my M1A. I've been shooting and building firearms for decades. Virtually all the special gun oils are a complete waste of money. Mobil-1.
destiny walker ever tested it at that temperature with a rifle? I use Mobil 1 for my M1 Garand It gets down that cold here. But I don’t really want to be outside. I should really just suck it up and go play
There are all kinds of stuff that will do the job of a gun lube. Of course, a branded gun oil will work just fine. Seeing as how the best way to use it is very, very sparingly, a small bottle will last for years. A small amount worked into a clean, soft cotton cloth and just rubbed over the metal surfaces will leave a very thin trace which is all you need. I put the cloth in a plastic bag and it's useful for years. When wiped over a metal surface you should barely be able to tell that there's any oil there at all. In forty years of hunting, target shooting, trap shooting and a bit of handgunning, I've yet to see even a hint of rust, pitting or discoloration. If you object to the price of a branded gun oil then use drug store mineral oil, the kind that contains no perfume or other additives. It's safe to drink and is used as a laxative. A trace layer of the stuff is an excellent gun oil, good for outer surfaces, the action and even the bore prior to storage after the season. Next year you just clean the bore and you're good to go.
@@jkeelsnc A solvent is generally understood to be something that dissolves something else. In the case of gun cleaning solvents used in the barrel, you're trying to dissolve carbon fouling left over from burned powder which is fairly easily done. Many chemicals will do the job. In a pinch, gasoline (NOT RECOMMENDED!!) will work. However, dissolving copper fouling deposited from the outside of a bullet is another matter entirely. Lead from soft points is also a tougher challenge than carbon fouling (which actually consists of a lot more than just carbon). There are many schools of thought about copper and lead fouling. Some call it evil and want to remove it regularly. Others go by the 'steady state' idea that after a while, the amount deposited is equal to the amount each new bullet 'scrubs out' as it goes down the barrel. Some shooters don't clean their barrel at all, at least until they notice groups opening up. Others are 'clean freaks' and super scrub barrels after each day at the range or even in between sets at the range. There are specialized products for removing copper fouling. They are usually ammonia based and if left in the barrel for longer than say 15 minutes, will start to damage the barrel. Others are ammonia free and claim to not be damaging to barrels. The point remains however, is it necessary? Many years ago in a BS session about guns and gun care, a colleague who was previously in the military said that the average gun owner was far more likely to ruin a rifle barrel with a cleaning rod than actually wear out the barrel by shooting. Improper cleaning technique really can ruin a barrel. Most of the length of the bore will be fine but the initial freebore and leade and also the muzzle crown can take a beating. All I can offer is my own experience. I certainly am not an expert on gun cleaning. After a session at the range I use a basic gun cleaning solvent, Hoppe 's No. 9( partly because I like the smell). I do that to remove carbon fouling. After several dry patches the barrel is 'clean enough'. One more clean patch with a minuscule amount of gun oil and I'm done. On a hunting trip, I only clean a barrel if it's gotten wet from rain or if I suspect somehow dirt has gotten into it.
+Worldwide Bushcraft & Survival Eh, we've all done less than sensible stuff when it comes to our guns. You're definitely not alone in using tacticool cleaners and lubricants.
+Worldwide Bushcraft & Survival Like ARG said the "Gun Lubes" work but you are paying 10 times more for it. Yes I know I can use motor oil and grease in a situation where I can't get my gun lube of choice and I would without a second thought. I would use 3 in 1 oil if I had to in a pinch.
+Worldwide Bushcraft & Survival I just recently switched over to Lucas Oil semi-synthetic engine assembly lube. I've been doing some research on lubes to re-evaluate what I use. I wanted something that would stay put more and decided to go to an auto store. I picked-up a tube of one of the grease similar to what Regular guy mentioned but as I looked at a bottom shelf, I saw these little white plastic bottles of the assembly lube. I picked it up and tore off the protective seal under the twist cap and dabbed my finger in it and it was a much thicker and tackier consistency. It was also this cool greenish color. Anyways, it includes some extreme pressure anti-wear additives such as zinc and moly and considering the thickness, I think it would stay on the gun better when being used and so far it has worked great. I have a CHL and I'm here in Texas and it gets hot. Many other gun oils will tend to run and week after week, the top of my chamber on my XDM still has a sheen on it from the Lucas Assembly Lube. Give that a try.
BlueonGoldZ Back in the day, when I first began using it, I did so after I saw their gear display at my local auto parts store. I saw how the oil stayed with the gears, rather than allowing gravity to its thing. I thought I should use that in my guns, so I did. I never had any issues out of it, now matter how dirty. I would just wipe down the bolt carrier group and the chamber, then shoot on. I moved to Frog Lube after it became tacticool and I still use it. If it works, I will continue to use something. When I get low on it, I may move back to Lucas. I appreciate your reply, BTW. It's cool to have open conversations without the trolls.
Worldwide Bushcraft & Survival Yeah, no worries. Look-up Weapon Shield's videos on RU-vid. He uses a Timken bearing machine to simulate wear. Frog Lube performed very poorly. I would stay away from it.
I have used simple old white lithium grease on all of my firearms since 1988, need had a fail. my 1911 has over 9000 rounds down the pipe. The only thing I have changed is my barrel bushings. The old one was fine, I just wanted a stainless steel bushing.
I live in a high humidity wet conditions with little sand. That's why I use a thin coating of wheel bearing grease. When it is super cold, I just simply wipe off all the greese and go almost dry.
Good thoughts and insights. I started looking at using grease after seeing James Yeager use it on his AR BCG. You mentioned grease/oil being an issue at very low temps - what would you think about mixing in some Marvel Mystery oil (or some similar additive) with the oil for those cold temps? The obvious answer should be to test it, but I only live in RI, so it doesn't get that cold. Also, you mentioned not using a degreaser - what do you use?
I usually just use 3 in 1. It works fine, but you will have excess that you have to wipe off your gun for a bit. If all you got is 5w-30 or 10w-30 motor oil, it’ll work just fine. Always remember that if it’s too thick or you put too much on that’s bad as well. Oil and grease attract dust and debris and hold it; but that’s better than something that will just run or burn off. I’m probably gonna try something with a needle tip next time, but 3 in 1 has never caused me any problems.
The W in 10W-whatever stands for winter, not weight. It's the viscosity of the oil in freezing temperatures where the second number is the viscosity in warmer weather
