....but, eventually, if it runs, which all oils do, eventually it's going to run dry from a combination of friction, vibration and lastly oxidization from the sheer heat of the components. I eventually went to Lucas' 'engine assembly lube but even that run on its own over time even when guns aren't in use. I am starting to believe that grease is actually the way to go.
My AR always stands muzzle up in safe. I only shoot it maybe 3 or 4 times a year. I notice the oil running down. I think a lot of it will end up in the spring tube.
Try lucas oil gun grease or Breakthrough battle born grease. I use both on my handguns and it lasted all summer and winter without evaporating. I used clp for years but after a month of carrying in the summer heat the gun would be bone dry.
For my AK's and AR's all I use is Lucas white lithium grease however for my handguns and shotguns all I do is put on a very light coating of slip 2000 oil. That seems to work.
Lucas oil red and tacky. A grease gun tube costs 9 bucks and is the same thing as the 2 ounce tube of Brian Enos gun grease. It stays and does not move.
Sorry. I disagree with you. A bit of grease is good in the right places. If you store your gun for long periods, grease is the way to go. If you shoot a lot, you should be cleaning them anyway so unless your slathering the grease on, no problem. Oil gathers carbon, dirt, sand and everything else. The fact that Grease stays, where you put it is a selling point. My opinion
First thank you very much for your video and the time you took to make it. BUT i have some questions. You prefer an oil that is maybe harder when its cold and more liquid when warm. WHY? What happens with my gun, when i hunt in winter? Does it still work well then? Why dont you use an grease that just works when its cold or hot outside PLUS it does not run everywhere when its hot?
Who uses 90 wt.? Guns get hot really quick. Oil thickness is a concern? If your not a soldier rolling around in the dirt and mud how dirty is your gun at the range? As a marine 2 drops did the whole m16, as a shooter I find my firearms run great greasy and I clean them after everything. 40 + years of heavy shooting every weekend and a heavily oiled gun in hot or cold has never contributed l to a malfunction. Metal parts rubbing together like grease.
10* below? Holy crap man, I would't know what to do in that weather, much less be shooting! Glad I live in SE Texas! Btw, thanks for all the great videos! Hoping I'll be in the market for one of your custom 2011s this spring.
Uhh you were saying?.. just two years ago in Central and South Texas we had zero degree and even five below in some areas with people dying because it was so cold
I'm using Accuracy Oil, which is a machine oil on my rifles and all my hand guns. It seems to work quite well. What do you think and or have you ever used?
And so does the dirt it attracts. If you aren’t a high volume shooter you can simply use spit and well wishes but if you shoot oil is king. I’ve seen dozens, and I do mean dozens of competitors go down because a little bit of dust on their well greased guns getting gummed up. I’ve shot the same stages with a soaking wet gun and simply wipe down my gear before the next stage. Heck you can shoot stages bone dry if your parts are smooth enough and the oil is in the pores from the beginning of the day, (forgot the keys to my truck inside the ignition and only had my guns and ammo and used my hand towel to finish the day and we had bugs in the morning, rain in the early afternoon and mad and hail in the late afternoon and lost 20 competitors out of 80 that day some because of grease, (don’t know how many but there isn’t a stage in a decent sized event that someone doesn’t go down for that reason).
I'm with you tomkat USA. As a biker the summertime oil drip and stains are BS. Grease is for the ride, and heat. I can see where comp guys would't need but it's a different MO so they need a different means to ensure reliable running. Comp guys need the race cars to beat the clock, I need the 4x4 to beat the threat, two or four legged. A dry gun after a days ride in the sun and humidity (heat and vibration) resulting in the oil has flowed into my jeans is not my MO. Just like ammo there is no one solution so plan for the task at hand. Worse case I'll dip my finger in the oil tank on the bike if I need too and keep everything running.
There's a reason why the only time oil is used in industry it is in a sealed system and is pumped to the wear points. As for the "grease attracts dirt" argument, if your oil doesn't attract dirt it is because there is none! I have used a light grease like Tetra on the rails of my autos forever.
@@nimbly1693 tetra is my go to as well. I find cleaning my firearms to be very relaxing and I enjoy it, so I clean after every shoot. I don’t mind grease capturing carbon bc I clean it every time.
Funny you say that. When I lived down South in hot weather, I'd just use new 5w-30. Now up here in the North freezing Country I just use new synthetic 0w-20 motor oil. I just crack the new bottle and fill up a 4oz container lasting years for pennies. I still grease Tight tolerance wear points...old and don't care. Like a touch in the slide rails, thin coat on barrel bushing, and Sear contact point only, sear spring contact points....thin and I mean thin. I Like Moly grease myself...ounce will last you 5 lifetimes over.
It's what I use, but the channel name leads me to believe gunsmith? I could absolutely see giving this advice as a gunsmith, plenty of people have no concept of moderation. Lot of folks hear "thin film" and their brain turns it into "dip and shake off the excess"
Weird... what a shame. Someone should tell the firearm industry. Btw- you described EXACTLY what grease is supposed to do. Oil- closed and sealed systems. Grease for all else. But WHICH grease is important. TW25B , made by Mil-Com has been used by military for years. And SIGs shipped for years with Lucas extreme grease. They stopped including because of cost. Read up on basic metallurgy and basic mechanical engineering. And btw- CLP or "all in one" products are for field use only- they do none of the three things very well, but they do a little of all 3. Stay away from Teflon or PTFE, a firing weapon burns off some and it is very toxic. I don't like silicon (for guns, anyway) because I paint my guns, depending on where I was working, and silicon lasts forever and repels paint. But I use silicon on all my o-rings and Seals on optics, lasers, and comms. However- there is an old saying in both the gun and the mechanic Industry: "When you have NO lubrication at all, ANY grease or oil will help, if you absolutely must operate it." I have used crisco, pork fat, and cooking oil on guns- and they will work, but burn off quickly and make you too hungry to focus. I've used gear oil, motor oil, tranny fluid, graphite powder, Teflon spray (see above), WD40 (not really a lubricant, but an excellent water displacer), and Anal Eaze. But there are some great products out there- do your research. Cherry Balmz, Tetra Grease, SLIP 2000 EWS, SNO, Pro Gold, Hoppe's Extreme, Lucas extreme, etc... RIGG is for storage, Aeroshell or Moly is for threaded barrels, Outers is for Choke Tubes (but I have buddies you use it for slides and bolts as well). I once put 1800 rounds through one of my ARs on ONE application of EWG. Try that with CLP!
I remember reading an article written by Armand Swenson back in the day. It was about tight new 1911’s. He recommended swishing your gat in kerosene and cycle the slide when they began to slow down from powder-carbon buildup, which would be enough lube without taking the gun apart, so there’s that. Having said that, Milspec 1911’s can be very loose and could benefit from some grease, meaning they actually could potentially shoot tighter groups when full of grease.
The only thing I use grease for on my gun is to wipe down the outside of my gun in order to prevent rust, and if being put up in the gun safe for a really long time, I'll run a lightly greased patch through the barrel followed by a bunch of tight fitting patches to remove any excess. Reason being, in my experience the oils have a tendency to dry out eventually when the gun is squirreled away in the safe and not used for extended periods.
Funny thing is, I do just the complete opposite. I only use oil with Teflon in it to clean the outside of my slide. I also rub it into the outside of the barrel because it has Teflon. The slide, barrel lugs and the inside of the slide where the barrel sits under it gets a very small smear of grease. I use Lucas high temp bearing grease, red color. Been doing it since the mid 80’s and NEVER an issue and my guns slides run smooth as silk. Oil sucks for carry guns. Runs right down towards the barrel when it’s in it’s holster against your body heat and now you have a dry gun. And no, the Teflon in the oil doesn’t make a bit of difference. Teflon only gets into metal to truly treat it between 500 and 800 degrees. So the Teflon just slides right off along with the carrier oil.
That, and put in a good lubricated gun sock!! They work very well from my experience. Put all my rifles, shotguns and some of my handguns in them. Great for long storage in safe!!
I want to take advantage of this video to ask about the appropriate use of the Product called Slide Glide would you like to comment or even a video on the subject would be good?
Very good advice. Thanks for the video, I heard this years ago from someone I respect a great deal. Followed these simple rules and my 1911's have run flawlessly.
I never had any issue with using grease. I'm not sure what people are doing with grease or how it is causing issues. Even if you went crazy with the grease, it shouldn't cause any issue. I've been using some sort of grease on a 1911 for the past 25 years. Never had any problems with it.
I like Lubriplate low temp grease on my slide as it last longer than oil and so thin it does not cause dirt to stick and more than oil. Bushing on the barrel as well. Real thin oils do not last at all, metal is not poris to hold oil.
Sounds like you mentioned it briefly at the end of the video, but could grease slow the slide action of a semi-auto causing a FTE or double feed? I experienced those malfunctions after trying grease with two pistols that hadn’t failed with oil.
Just had this happen to me yesterday on a Hi Power. I have always used oil but decided to try grease to see how it would work and I got a couple failure to feeds. It was not an excessive amount of grease either and I only greased the slide rails. Back to oil only for me.
Have a rifle with an aluminum receiver and aluminum bolt. Oil cause it to jam grease is what it prefers. Yes It does catch more filth but it just keeps running! I found that some aluminum parts work with grease for me.
We don't have special gun oils and cleaning solvents where I live. Can I use Petrol/kerosene/ Spirit as cleaning solvent and engine oil to keep it safe from rust. Shall be thankful to you if you can show proper way of cleaning and storing of handguns and shotguns.
How often does your firearm get into dirt? If it does, I'd clean it out regardless of grease or oil. A thin coat of grease is better than oil for long term carrying (EDC), oil dries up or migrates off.
Any thoughts on applying grease to a Colt Mustang 380 that was completely soaked in brake cleaner fluid two clean all part there is literally no lubrication whatsoever left on this pistol I had thought about just using some ballistol oil but lately I've been thinking about just going to the automotive store and buying a tube of moly grease I think this may be the better option in my case considering that it has been thoroughly cleaned of all oil and grease residue just curious what you think??
I use oil out of the fryer, typically after 1000 batches of french fries so its nice and gloopy lol. I agree with you on the grease part although some manufacturers still send out guns with a packet of grease so as long as you clean your gun pretty regularly I don't think it makes a big difference.
Lubriplate sfl-1 on my hi power, rack the slide, wipe excess. Fmo-350-aw on the rest of it...on top of the grease to carry debris away then after a session a cheap harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner and some simple green; zero problems.
Philadelphia cream cheese. Pack the area where the slide spring and guide bar go. If you don’t have a full guide bar even better. It lubes, and if your,re stranded and exhausted, you have a built in snack to keep you gunning!
Mineral oil for pistols, light machine gun oil for AR15, grease for ak47/74's until below freezing, then use oil. In any case , USE SPARINGLY. Also clean your firearms after using to remove carbon and grit, which will over time accelerate wear and tear.
I’ve been using grease/motor oil on my AR15’s forever. I don’t clean them, just wipe off the BCG few times a year and add a bunch more oil each time I shoot. Glocks get some oil on the barrel and the rails each time I shoot. No cleaning there ether
Prior to any indoor range trip, I field strip my guns & apply a light amount of CLP. Now 2023, I mainly use Clenzoil or Slip 2000 EWL. Both are well made, no odors 🚫.
@@DavidLLambertmobile depending on what gun I'll use different lube. On my ak and fal I like to use grease. The bcg for both rides on rails so it works well. Something like an AR I'd probably use clp. I use clp breakthrough to clean my guns.
Good oil is important, lots of good oil is out there. Oil is a part of the system. Everyone should find what works well for them. Thin oil is best, it carries out carbon and any foreign material we don't want in the gun. Oils like FP-10 or Weapon Shield work well in many applications and 1911 guns.
If I were in Crapistan or in a desert somewhere using my gun day in and day out and my life depended on it…maybe I would avoid grease (and avoid grit sticking to it). Currently I Store my guns wrapped in a cotton cloth, in a case, in a climate controlled cabinet. I shoot them on sunny days, and then I clean them immediately and lube them immediately and put them back in their cozy little climate controlled cabinet. A little grease is absolutely fine for these firearms. My hunting rifles… light oil only. Wiped off well in October. Cleaned and oiled in December.
I agree, I had a fool on another site tell me all he uses is grease on his guns. It wasn't worth the effort to argue with him. 50 years ago I was taught by my Dad to never use any kind of grease in a gun and only use good quality oil to lubricate a gun. Guess what, some of my guns are 50 years old now and some of the guns and rifles I inherited from him are well over 100 years old now. And still look and work perfectly.
I've bought into the hype of grease but after testing a grease that was recommended to me by many YT's and form posts I've ditched the idea of grease and went back to Mobile 1 5w-30 in a little oiler bottle. I've haven't found anything better.
I got a cz75 clone from Turkey, every part had a light coating of a moly grease Very similar gun to a 1911, just interesting an iso9000 certified NATO manufacturer disagrees with a guy on RU-vid
@@randyreviewsit sighs, I'll try to type clearly for you: Gravity induced runoff is NOT a cleaning feature of oil, nor is grease more attractive to debris than any wet / oiled surface. Crawl back into your basement and leave to gun talk to the adults
@@bjornegan6421 On a hand built gun there are no parts that will make contact that shouldn't, also the parts in high quality guns are the proper hardness. Therefore the impact of the slide closing will not adversely affect anything
It doesn't damage anything. The round doesn't cushion anything. Simply firing a round with a full magazine is the same as dropping the slide. It's not poor form. It's not showing off like all those boomers say. It's the function of the gun. Been doing that to all my guns, especially the 1911, there's no damages at all. Maybe if you did it 60,000 times, there will be some wear just like firing 60,000 times. Do it or don't do it. It's irrelevant.
I couldn't DISAGREE more ... I mix MOBIL 1 oil that I drain from the jug after doing oil changes on my vehicles with some RED & TACKY LUCAS grease that I salvage from used up grease tubes ... try to get the consistency of warm honey ... best of both worlds ... doesn't run ... slicker than greased owl shit ...
Well Bob that's one approach. You might want to try some fresh motor oil and see if that works even better. To all of our customers we strongly discourage using used oil of any kind in your guns. Used oil will bring in contaminates at the very least.
Actually People Doesn't know, How to Light Grease their Guns. Grease are made of Oil itself. First Clean the firearm, then put a light oil & clean the excess oil, then put No. 2 or 3 Grease (little) for Moving Parts. Like Slide Rails, metal contact points. In this video he is telling Not to Grease on Barrel, But Light Grease (for hotter climate use No. 3 Grease & for colder climate use No. 2 Grease) is essential on Barrel Lugs. Barrel Lugs are the vital point which requires lubrication & No Oil can Stay intact in this location. Light greasing will Lubricate & cools the contact point.
@@Tactical-Practical-SajidShah Personally I use the military LSA light small arms and it has never failed me. The military took it of it's approved list for a while but now they have approved it again because CLP isn't what it's all that it's cracked up to be.
@@thomask5605 LSA is a petroleum-based, Oxidation & Corrosion inhibitors and denser then CLP. Good stuff. Synthetic CLP (Birchwood Casey) cracked my Plastic furniture bcz of Powerful Residual Cleaning agents. CLP can be good for Only Barrel Cleaning,but I would not recommend for general oiling. No. 2 Grease (I personally use Abro No. 2 Rust & Corrosion Oxidation Inhibitors Grease) on my Firearm Contact points, which are semi liquid (denser) like LSA. But for oiling I use Brunox gun oil.
Get a Glock. Problem solved. They run on anything and they run well close to dry. They love Mobil 1 red bearing grease. So do ARs. Both use minimal lubing.
Ya my buddy has a 1911 and I love when I get a chance to shoot it. The trigger is like butter. High maintenance, but great guns. I shoot Glock the best because I'm so used to them, but I honestly do see that they are truly more reliable and less maintenance than pretty much every thing else out there. 1911s are great though. S&W are awesome too.
@@mrbegals4122 But is doesn't drop on an empty chamber, it strips and loads another round. I have heard the debates and some gunsmiths will say don't do it with a custom fit 1911, but there are also many folks that say it's okay. I was just looking for their opinion.
@@andym1594 I'm not sure which one of us doesn't understand here, it's likely me =) I was specifically talking about using the slide catch/release to drop a slide (that was locked back) full force back into lockup, or onto an empty chamber. I'm probably explaining this poorly, releasing the slide full force when the gun is empty. (?)
Dropping the slide on a properly made pistol does no damage. We have millions of reps to prove that. On guns with lower quality parts both dry fire and dropping the slide can be problematic.
