Definitely something wrong with the trigger disconnect with the safety in the up position. Your trigger stayed to the rear when you pulled it. This doesn't happen on my 1943 K98k, therefore the gun doesn't fire when the safety is moved.
Yea first time I’ve actually seen this happen. I think I had a model of 1917 that would do it sometimes. I just generally don’t pull the trigger with the safety on. Any idea on a fix before I tear into this thing?
Right "Advanced Technology Industries". Im not sure if they're still around or not. Yugo m24s were about $180 at the time. I talked to ATI years ago, their support person was pretty open, they said royalties were paid to Steyr for the stock. What alarmed me about this stock way back was the phillips head screws towards the front of the rail iirc. The rail being polymer bothered me. What I thought was well done was the metal clamp that sits right in front of the hand guard. This thing being in the heydey of tapco wasn't too bad- if anything, it signaled the "dont permanently modify" era, which became the "dont sand the stock" era of today. That barrel looks awful long. I guess if its 3006 it could be a commercial barrel. If you're going to rebarrel Id like to see a 338 or 35 whelen ;). I guess green mountain still makes'em.
Thank you for that info! We know very little about the stock. It is INDEED a commercial barrel and is very long so cutting behind that bubble still has it sitting at 26”. As soon as my shop has the power run to it I’m rebarreling this to .416. I’m not to worried about putting the new barrel in I’m more worried about taking this contraption apart and getting back together properly! 😅
@@BigBoyRabbit420 Oh no its quite easy- as far as the stock is concerned. Instead of doing this from memory, Iraqveteran8888 actually has an OLD video up called "How To Episode 2: ATI Mauser Stock Install" and it is exactly this :). 416.. if you want to keep this stock that may be a challenge. First, I think the aluminum block that goes around the barrel in this stock is fit for general military contour barrels, so you _may_ have to do some machining. Second, 416 rigby is a long cartridge, and you'll have to notch a relief cut in the front of the receiver ring to have enough length to get that monkey into the action (or atleast, a lot of mausers converted to 3006 do, but that may be for stripper feeding) but I reckon the stock does permit a lot of thumb room to drop a case in so prob not an issue there.
@@herrcobblermachen yes I will have to modify it a bit. I’m going to see how well I can modify the magazine. The only mod the last owner did was smashing that 30-06 barrel in it. So it will only hold two or three 30-06 due to case length. I’m not above radical modifications I got this one to play with and just see how ridiculous and fun I can make it.
@@BigBoyRabbit420 Dont forget the timney trigger ;). Thinking on it a bit more... you'll have to modify the bolt face to accept the case rim of the 416. 9.3 Mauser and 375H&H I think are the big ones you can most easily get by with, but they pale in comparison to the 416 admittedly. I believe I read somewhere that the 375 H&H was the only cartridge allowed on select african safari hunts that's under .400. Hunters of old used 7mm Mauser. Lot to think about there
@@herrcobblermachen30-06 can and has killed everything on the African continent but you also correct that now it has to be .400 or bigger. I don’t plan on EVER going back to any part of Africa. SA and Jburg is fun but the closer to the horn you get the worse it gets. New Zealand is a much safer and hunting tourist friendly place with tons of game. And that’s what I love about gunsmithing. I’ll definitely have to do heavy modifications on this Mauser but I haven’t looked to see what Mauser reciever they used. It’s much much easier to modify pattern 14 receivers to take Magnum calibers but I’m fresh out so this already modified Mauser is going on the chopping block.
