CHECK YOUR WIRING WITH AN OHM METER TO ENSURE CORRECT WIRING OF 8 ohm for best video quality watch in 1080p Instagram / thehawkeyegarage Facebook / thehawkeyegarage Email hawkeyeskunkworks@gmail.com #hawkeyegarage
Hey Joe, I did this 6 months ago but I added an Audio Control ACM 1.300. The amp is tiny and puts out 300 watts @ 2 ohms. You can install it right above the rear ac blower motor with a little trimming. I added a remote level knob available thru Audio Control which for me is essential. I did need to space the interior trim panel away from the subwoofer as the increased cone excursion allowed the surround to contact the panel. The end result is what you hoped you would have gotten from the sub swap originally. Much better low end without it being overbearing. One cool thing I noticed was that since the sub box is mounted in the quarter panel, it transfers the subs vibrations thru the structure of the vehicle a lot more than a traditional sub box would so you "feel" it more, especially in the armrests and the seat bottom and floor. I'm not exaggerating when I say that it transformed the sound system. Be careful if you chose to run it at 2 ohms as that is more power than the sub is rated for. On bass heavy tracks the sub will lose control at higher volume so that's where the level knob earns it's keep. It also helps keep the peace with the Mrs since she is not a bass head like me and it's her truck. Lol!
WARNING! The wiring is not correct as you need to hook up both voice coils in series which you did with the jumper, BUT what you need to do is connect the main wiring from the speaker box to the positive of one voice coil and the negative of the other voice coil. The way you have it wired is still in a 4 ohm configuration and will not match the impedance of the ML system. Please make sure you correct this or pin this comment so people don't hook this up incorrectly. I made a video doing this exact mod 3 years ago, so refer to that if you have questions.
I actually based my wiring on your video…. Did it the same way you did. Maybe I didn’t explain myself well enough. I checked with ohm meter and it was 8. I’d suggest everyone check their wiring too.
I wired it exactly how you had (jumper wire from one side to other, and sub wire from one side to other) and it works however, I can barley feel the bass… like I can see the woofer doing it’s thing but even sitting in the back that bass vibration and thump is not noticeable. I’m wondering if it was the same for y’all. Im gonna probably his tend up adding a powered sub to the rear speakers on low pass mode I’ve heard it’s doable and better results.
Great informative video! Been wanting to upgrade mine as well. So you had to get this one due to ohms? With my non-nav and the basic sounds system, can I get any 6.5in?
I did the same, honestly it’s ok. I ended up installing a aftermarket amp specifically for the sub, and you need to cut the wires from the mark levison amp that feed power to the sub. Sounds much better
