Vlog 28 - Lexus GX470 Subwoofer Replacement 

This is a great question! 6.8 ohms is actually good enough. You'd be surprised how much variance in the impedance you'll find when measuring various speakers. Most resisters are a 10% tolerance on the nominal impedance. So for the two 4 ohms coils in this example, 10% of error would equate to 0.4 ohms, making your speaker roughly 3.8 ohms. So when you put them in series you would get 3.8+3.8=6.8 ohms. Now this is assuming the 10% error went on the low end and it sounds like it was roughly the case, but it could also go in the other direction and have a worst case impedance of 4.4 ohms. Additionally, add some measurement error from the multimeter and it adds up to why you may not measure exactly 8 ohms. Sorry for the long winded response, but at the end of the day it sounds like you have everything wired up properly. Thanks for the great questions and thank you for watching/supporting the channel!

lol thats awesome to hear! I'm glad this video made you confident in tackling the install yourself. Thanks for sharing your experience!

Haha! Hey Joe! I can definitely sympathize as this one can be rough on the hands. The RRW seat cover install beat up mine the worst of all my videos. Glad this video was able to help you out!

Joe ramirez did your skar sub match up with your holes? I'm doing mine and they aren't lining up with whats on the box

Thank you for the feedback. It’s nice to know others benefit from these videos!

Hey Supitown6013! Thank you for the comment. I'm glad you are happy with the upgrade! I'm still enjoying the upgraded speaker setup all these years later!

Great suggestion John! It would have been awful if I had a ton of metal shavings rattling in the box. Thanks for reaching out!

Hey CF! So glad to here this was helpful for you and the install process went well. Thanks for reaching out and providing the kind feedback!

@@Awesomoto You motivated me to start down a rabbit hole. I saw your 6.5" rear door speaker video and ordered up the parts and swapped those out last night. The front 6x9's are back ordered, but I got the wiring adapters and mounting plates. Good content man, thanks!

Thanks Clint! I appreciate your feedback and sharing. Glad you found your issue and got things connected properly!

Hey Taylor, thanks for the response. 🙏🏻 I agree, it sounds decent for a stock setup. It’s definitely not going to be as good as a 10” sub with after market amp. I think it’s a solid replacement for those who need to replace the old sub.

Thank you Michael! 🙏🏻 I finished filming the install for the rest of the speakers last weekend and love the sound pumping out of the GX now! I’m editing that video in the evenings after work this week and will release it soon!

Hey Anthony! Glad this video helped! Thanks for reaching out and providing feedback. It’s been a few months and I still love the sound of this speaker!

Hey Broken 8WT! Sorry for the delayed response, but I'm so happy to hear your story and it put a smile on my face reading. Making these videos is a fun process for me, but hearing how they helped others makes it worth all the effort. Thank you so much for sharing and watching the video!

Thanks for reaching out and letting me know about this! It makes me happy hearing stories of others having success doing the same mods. Glad you like the sound of the new setup…I’m thoroughly impressed with this and my other new door speakers. Feels like a new car again!

Awesome! Let me know if you have questions when you do the install. I’m doing my door speakers this Friday. I’ll post a video of that install.

Yeah, that rattle is the sound of the panels that aren't fully attached when I filmed that section. I'm currently getting everything I need for the door speakers.

Thanks for subscribing! I don’t know the answer to everything, but I document everything I do on the GX to help others. lol I originally wanted this to be a somewhat stock daily driver. Now it’s a slightly modified daily.

Hey Corey! Glad to hear these worked out for you! 🥳

Thanks Fritz Duval! I appreciate the positive feedback! 🙏🏻

Thanks for the kind words! I never thought of that mod to be honest. Are you running and auxiliary fuel tank? Is that just to get more miles for long distance trail riding?

Yes, not on a gx tho but once I settle on a gx or lx that I like, I'll be installing one. There's an Australian company that builds them and I've researched a bit the install process. Longer range is definitely worth it

The door speakers just arrived today. I'll be filming the video this coming Friday!

@@Awesomoto nice. Did you order all of them or just the 6x9s?

@@limonc77 I ordered the 6x9s for up front and the 6.5” ones for the rear doors.

Thank you Robby! I'm so sorry for the delayed response. Thank you for being a subscriber and wow a two GX household...that is awesome! Yes there are four terminal. If you look at the diagram I sketched up, you connected a jumper from positive on one of the sides to the negative on the other side. The two remaining connections will act like your OEM speaker and plug in the same way. Essentially you can pretend the jumper isnt there once you install it. Hope this helps!

Hey Hunter! Of course and sorry I missed your comment about cable/wire size. You can go with any small gauge speaker wire (18g or 16g). Sounds like you found a solution and I'm glad to hear you finished the install successfully. I hear comments from others about sealing around the speaker with epoxy getting them better bass, so I may try this out.

@@Awesomoto it’s already 100x better than the stock sub which was beyond saving. Do you feel like the scar speakers for the rear door are an upgrade from stock or about the same? Price wise seems like an easy upgrade, but my stock speakers are still good. Thanks for the videos, tons of help!

@@Cutthroatish That’s great to hear! I didn’t notice much of an improvement from the rear door speakers from Skar. The DS18s I put in the front doors are amazing though. They definitely improved the sound quality.

@@Awesomoto yeah I did the front with DS18s, those hit hard.

Thank you for sharing your experience! Excellent sounding solution to get some more gain to that speaker and show it's full potential!

Hi-- I did the Skar replacement and wired as recommended to 4 ohms. Did the front door lower speaker replacements by Awesomoto and I found the sub woofer output very low as well. Did you do any upgrade to the stock Levinson amp too or just added the mono for the sub? Also, can you please tell me which wires you tapped into the front door woofer outputs to do so? Thanks!

I will definitely be replacing the other speakers as they're shot as well. I didn't realize how bad they rattled until I fixed the rear sub, which rattled the most. I still haven't made a final decision on the remaining speakers, but will be doing more research and making a selection soon. I will post a video documenting the rest of the speakers. Thanks for reaching out!

@@Awesomoto I will definitely be on the lookout. Love your channel! I appreciate all the GX documentation you provide us.

Of course Roman! Thank you for reaching out and supporting!

Thank you! 🙏🏻

@@Awesomoto What size wire did you use to bridge it?

@@shaunbarrett5284 I used 16g wire. I had some laying around the garage. It was a little thicker than the stock speaker wires, so slightly overkill, but it was quick to just use what I had.

@@Awesomoto Thanks!

This is a great idea! I've watched many videos that use decimeters and show there isnt much improvement with the sound deadening material and I was slightly bummed there was barely a change in noise power from the before and after measurements. I also considered doing this and additionally buying all new rubber door and window seals to see if the source of the noise was from that rubber degrading.

Thanks for reaching out! It’s definitely higher on my priority list. I have one or two videos I’ll post before, but I’ll do it soon!

Any reason why we don't cut the box for it to fit and not the sub? I assume it because the box is harder to replace than a $70 sub?

Awesome!! This definitely was a nice replacement speaker. I just uploaded a new video 2 days ago replacing the rest. I agree...this made the rest of the stock speakers sound like crap lol!!

That’s great to hear a Dremel to the box worked out! I think I prefer that route because it feels wrong cutting a speaker lol. 😂

@@Awesomoto I just replaced my sub with the same Skar but as this reader did, I cut the box instead of the speaker with a dremel. Just didn’t feel right cutting a brand new speaker. Haha. Tedious work but it came out great. 👍

Glad it helped!

@@Awesomoto Yeah, my 6x9" subs are rattling as well. Haven't started the project, but I'm going to order both before getting to work.

@@DentistDC Sounds like your speakers were in the same condition as mine. Just to be clear, this speaker is a great replacement speaker, but won’t provide an upgrade in sound as the amp driving it is still running the same power to the speaker. I was just looking for an equivalent replacement and this speaker is a great for that.

@@Awesomoto Understood. That's what I'm looking for. I'm no audiophile, but the rattling of the sub is driving me nuts. Cheers!

@@DentistDC That’s exactly how I felt. Rattling was annoying and was just wanting a good replacement.

Great question! I left it out all together. Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed the video!

I contemplated that route, but the speaker doesn't clear the plastic grill with that mounting option. And like you mentioned it felt like it would be hard to get a good seal on the box.

Asmo, thanks for reaching out and giving a great write up. I agree with your statement and would say it’s likely an equivalent replacement. In my instance with a blown speaker, this was exactly what I was looking for. I recently made a video of replacing the door speakers with Skar and DS18 speakers and they are much nicer than the ML’s. People looking for a big improvement should probably go the full after market amp route and get rid of the 8 ohm impedance system. Thanks again for the write up! 🙏🏻

@@Awesomoto Just to be clear, I think you made the best choice possible in this situation, and I think it will be valuable to people who are stuck. Mine was very close to being tits up, so it made sense to replace it regardless. I appreciate the video. And I didn't want that to get lost in my comment. I used an Infinity component set up front and they are ridiculous. It was a 4ohm set, wired into the factory wiring without their cross over. The bass is probably 3x that of the factory/Skar sub. Doors are matted. Added airflow top and bottom. Bass turned down and they are still insane.

@@Asmo6 Definitely wasn’t lost and I appreciate your feedback! 🙏🏻

I just installed mine the other day. And I agree. My original wasn't in too bad of condition and this replacement wasn't much of an upgrade. But good thing it wasn't too pricey. It's a good option if your original sub is blown.

@@Asmo6 I’m confused I though the speakers need to be 8ohm?

Of course MFA116! I'm glad you like the content and I appreciate you reaching out! Congrats on the upgrades and for recommendations for new amp I say you really can't go wrong with JBL, Kicker, Focal, Polk, etc. I just recommend switching to a 4 ohm system so you have more speaker options.

@@Awesomoto Thanks for getting back to me! I'm definitely going to look into the 4 watt amps you recommended. So far the foam repair kit works pretty good and should hold me over while I save up for the upgrades. My next little project is headlight restoration. I'm going to follow your video on that this weekend. Can't wait!

I have done a little research, but haven’t made a final decision on which speakers to go with.

This sounds like a nice sound system overhaul! Let me know how it turns out!

All done.. Skar 6.5" sub, 2 ohm wired in series to get 4ohms. Kicker KS 6x9 2 way Components in the front (tweeters mounted in original location using a backstrap to hold them in, KS 6.5" Coaxials in the rear doors, Kenwood KMM-X704 Deck, Kenwood X802-5 5 channel amp, 4ga power and ground to the amp, all new speaker wiring and RCA twisted pairs from the deck to the amp. Delete ML amp, Delete Center speaker, Delete Cargo door speakers, Delete CD Changer, OEM Pioneer HU moved to back of glove box glovebox.. After some tuning of the new decks settings, the new system sounds great.. Note, you do lose voice navigation and OEM bluetooth with the removal of the ML amp, but its a terrible Nav anyway.. Bluetooth will run from the new deck for phone and streaming. If needed I will use Waze from my mobile device and bluetooth sound over the new audio system.. I also did lose steering wheel controls as I'm not sure how to tap into those with this specific setup.

Of course! No, you should not have a fluttering sound. I’d check to make sure everything is tightened down and not rattling.

Thanks Mike! Great explanation!

Hey Mike. I recommend checking the connections to the speakers to make sure they didn’t come unplugged or blow. Hopefully it’s not your amp channel blown that’s driving them.

@@Awesomoto Thanks for the reply. When the weather gets better, I will do that.

Thanks for reaching out! I'm glad to hear you like the Skar speaker. I'm still very happy with mine after all these years. I actually need to redo my EQ settings because on a road trip in December I accidentally reset my EQ. I'm planning to do a new video on the Phoenix Unit and plan to show those EQ settings and some other tips and tricks.

Oh nice! A ton of us run that set up and we’d appreciate the info on that video!!

Hey David. Thanks for subscribing, I appreciate the kind words too. For the sub, I did not have to install and after market amplifier. These speakers still utilize the factory Mark Levinson amp.

@@Awesomoto grey to hear just ordered the sub like three days ago and just had my door speakers 🔊 redone with JL audio

@@dchaparro23 I’m ordering my door speakers today. Spent some time researching the 8 ohm options (not many) and selected a set of 6x9’s for the front doors and a set of 6.5’s for the backseat doors. Can’t wait to get the speaker situation under control!

@@Awesomoto night and day difference

Thanks for the tips Pete! Yes, Dynamatt is a great way to dampen and vibrations and get a good tight seal on the box. I probably should add some to mine. I like your idea with adding a small amp…some extra power would really help this speaker shine as I think it has more potential than what it’s being driven by the stock amp.

@@MJ-ex8dl Just buy a small sheet and cut to your liking

Thanks Oscar! It was a 6.5" sub. All the product links are in the description section of the video if you are interested.

Hey Andres! Sorry for the delayed response. I'm sorry to hear you're dealing with these audio problems as they can be a real nightmare. The amp is under the driver side seat. It sounds like the previous owner really messed up the wiring and I think your suggestion of getting a non spliced original wire harness could help get things back to normal. This would also be the most affordable route and could help get the system at least running to assess if the speakers are still functional.

@@Awesomoto Thanks bro🤙🏽 I’ll try to fix it that way😄

Unfortunately this is for an 8 ohm configuration. I recommend finding a 4 ohm sub and speaker. The good thing is there are way more options for 4 ohm speakers. Hope this helps!

Yeah I think that’ll work!

Hey Dale, Sorry for the delayed response. The good thing with the setup I have is that you don't need an aftermarket amp. You can always go aftermarket and replace all speakers with 4 ohm if you'd like to have more speaker options. With your wattage question...the markings on speakers are the max wattage they can handle being driven by, so if you connect a speaker to an amp and it gets less power than 330watts....then you'll be okay. So the goal in car audio is to make sure the amp isn't over driving your speakers...driving them with less power than their max is what you want. Hope this makes sense.

@@Awesomoto it did and it helped alot, i typically overthink a problem so this video was somewhat a godsend. Thank you for the response, I know it's an older video and the fact you still do respond even delayed deserves major props.

If you don’t cut the speaker it won’t fit in the box correctly and there will be air gaps. The goal is to have it sealed for better sound. The cover also won’t fit if you don’t cut. It’s an unfortunate situation, but the cuts were very simple to make and I think with patience you will have no issues making it work. If you need help, let me know!

Hey Z4drummer, thank you! I’m sorry to hear you’re having rattling issues. Mine is still going strong after 10 months with no rattling. I recommend checking all the plastic panels around the area to make sure it’s not the panels. If you can isolate where the sound is coming from, I think you can get rid of it by tightening a panel or adding some acoustic padding so no rattling occurs.

@@Awesomoto Yeah I'm going to tear back into it probably tonight. I suspect that I have some bad air leaks too so I'm going to use some dynamat and weather strip caulk to try and seal it up better. Thanks for the quick response!

@@Gretschdude1412 No problem! Thanks for reaching out!

I'm an electrical engineer, but not as great with acoustics and wave propagation. I've heard of some adding a port hole, but the size of the port hole and the amount of polyfill is an acoustic problems I don't quite know all the right variables (hole diameter, air volume, etc) to confidently say it will sound "better". I guess you could always experiment and see if it makes an improvement.

You might be able to go that route, but you would have to completely reshape the box and potentially get a larger speaker as the walls of the box are thin. If you went this route with success, let me know.

Hey Nicholas! Yes, you should have a standard subwoofer back there and it should be a 4 ohm speaker. Hopefully you can still use this video to reference.

@keltycoyote17 can you give an update on what you found out about stock gx470? Thanks

In this video I just cut the factory connectors off the speaker and soldered them on. BUT, here is the Toyota/Lexus speaker harness you're looking for. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBP7Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry for the delay. Great question! I suggest a 14-16 gauge wire for the jumper.

@@Awesomotothanks! Did you buy the buy the wire or already had it? I can essentially use any 14 g wire right?

@@ibbyseed Yes any stranded copper 14-16g will do. I had some scrap lying around that I used.

Thanks!! 🙏🏻

Hey Mark, sorry for the late reply. You will want something maybe 14-16 gauge for this and you'll want to order stranded copper wire.

Completed the job already, but thanks!!! Sounds sooooo much better now!!!! 🎉🎉. I found that my Dremel worked better than my grinder for the delicate cuts.

@@markjoy6860 It’s awesome to hear you completed the install!! A Dremel sounds like a much better path. I actually just bought my first Dremel a few months ago. Had to send it with the grinder back then lol

I also did your grill swap for my GX but used four grill lights instead of three🎉🎉🎉🎉. Appreciate all your videos. Also want to try the Phoenix audio upgrade you did a few winters ago but is this android unit reliable? I’ve heard mixed reviews.

@@markjoy6860 That’s awesome! I love that grill and the raptor lights really complete the look. It’s an okay unit and I’d still recommend it. It has its flaws and so do the others. I love the wireless Apple CarPlay and I definitely prefer this over the factory unit. There is a guy who makes a software update for this which is much nicer, so I’m thinking of going that route and documenting it.

I’m so sorry for the delayed response. Yes, you’ll be fine with that impedance measurement.

@@Awesomoto cool, did this on my LX470. It works great. The old one would rattle even after I replaced the foam. Thanks!

I’m not quite sure the name for them, but I found them at good old Harbor Freight!

Hey Nathan! I removed the speaker by slightly pulling on the side headliner to get it out. If you look in the video at 4:49 you can see that part. Let me know if you have any more questions about it.

No they thankfully don’t contact.

8” is starting to push the limit on that factory box. I’m not so sure that would work. If you want to go with a larger sub, you might want to consider and external box for it.

This link from Crutchfield helps identify all the speaker sizes you’ll need. Let me know if you have questions. www.crutchfield.com/ymm/2003-Lexus-Gx470-Speakers-Stereos.html

Ryan, I’d go with 14g wire for the jumper.

Oh interesting. Is your GX470 by chance a non-navigation version? If you have the Mark Levinson sound system, this mod applies to you since this is an 8 ohm speaker. If not, then you can use any traditional 6.5" speaker that is 4 ohm impedance.

Yes, the whole system is 8 ohms.

Hey Zantetsuken! Thanks for reaching out. You're in luck because you have a 4 ohm system and have many options. I'd recommend something from Focal or JBL. The main thing you want to look for is 6.5" diameter and double check the depth so that it will fit in the speaker box properly.

Thanks much appreciated 😀👍

@@zantetsuken1595 did you find a good plug and play option for the stock 470 subwoofer replacement? I need to do mine asap :) let me know, thanks

Do both and get the SMD Neo magnet terminal so you can take your 10in box out when you don't want it in there

@@briandoss8552 This sounds like an awesome idea and would give you flexibility!

@@briandoss8552 thats what my buddy whose consulting me on this said to do. Beyond my return date for Skar so going to throw the 6.5 in and then probably add the bigger one and terminal later on. Thanks for confirming!

Hey Shawn, that’s a great question. I personally installed it and it wasn’t touching the grill of the speaker, but I hadn’t thought about the full throw of the speaker cone, especially when the volume is loud. There is a chance mine hits the grill, so I’ll keep an eye on it next time I’m out at the vehicle and see if I can notice that happening. I will admit that my speaker was completely blown, so having clean sound without rattles made me so excited I forgot to check for contact on the grill surface at full volume.

@@Awesomoto I told my audio tech that I wasn't worried about it as I don't normally have my music cranked to 11. If I was really worried about it, I would just cut out the grill part of the interior panel and fashion a bumped out grill or cage to accommodate the extended throw. I don't use the third row seating at all. I just use that area for cargo

@@shawncartwright338 I agree, I would just cut out the grille and make something to cover it. I too don't use the third row seats.

@@Awesomoto I finally got around to ordering a basic angle grinder from amazon and giving the Skar subwoofer a good trimming to fit it into the Lexus OEM subwoofer enclosure. My grinding skills were rusty at best, so it was definitely a hack job, but the results have been great! That Skar woofer is really nice. It seems like a shame to run it in the 8ohm configuration and not really take advantage of the dual 4ohm voice coils, but it sounds great none-the-less. I've not reinstalled the grill yet. Removed the grill to remove and clean the speaker grill cloth. It was filthy. It looks much better after cleaning, and now it has been reattached to the plastic grill. Just need to put it back in to the cargo sail panel. Seems like just enough clearance for the Skar. I cranked the system up a bit to watch the skar subwoofer in an effort to gauge the excursion. It doesn't seem to be an issue in the 8ohm configuration. Completing this project gave me a bit of momentum to tackle the other speakers… I replaced the front tweeters with the Dayton Audio AMT Mini-8 Air Motion Transformer Tweeter(s) - minor mods and soldering required for these (Easy to medium difficulty if you're a soldering novice). The existing tweeter crossover capacitors (3.3uF) are tiny and the leads are short. I unsoldered & reused them, but they sound kinda 'muted'(?) with the new AMT 8ohm tweeters. I have Dayton AMT tweeters in a bunch of home audio speakers throughout my house, and I love them. In this application they sound just a tiny bit weaker than I expected. I'm hoping it's the old OEM caps, so I've ordered some arguably better caps of similar specs: Audyn Cap Plus 3.3uF 800V Double Layer MKP Metalized Polypropylene Foil Crossover Capacitor from Parts Express. These should be an improvement over the stock caps, especially when factoring in their age. They are probably much bigger in physical size than the originals. I don't think that placement will be a problem as there seems to be plenty of room in that area. We'll see how it goes when I get them installed. If it is a vast improvement (Parity with the performance of my home audio AMT tweeters), then I will replace the rear passenger door tweets/x-over caps as well. I replaced the mids with the Kenwood KFC-835C 3-1/2" Dual Cone Speaker Pair - these are a bit more difficult. Front door mounts require thoughtful enlargement of the plastic mounting plate. Managed to slice the hell out of my finger when doing this (Don't rush it and don't attempt it late in the evening). Replaced the 6x9s drivers in the front doors with the DS18 PRO-X698 BM Loudspeaker - 6x9, Midrange, Red Aluminum Bullet, 550W Max, 275W RMS, 8 Ohms. Used the metra speaker adapter mount kit and metra wire harness connector leads that everyone else uses for this part. Rear passenger doors: replaced the primary drivers with the Skar Audio FSX65-8 300-Watt 6.5-Inch 8 Ohm MID-Range Loudspeakers (FSX65-8). These drop in to the existing mounts. Minor mods required to retain the tweeter basket that mounts over top the replacement drivers. Still have the stock tweets in the stock baskets. I may order two more AMT tweets to replace these, but the stock ones still sound good with the new 6.5" Skar speakers, so I'm not in any hurry to swap these. The mids in the rear door (Barn door) - going from the 2.75" ML mid drivers to the same Kenwood 3.5" mid drivers used in the front doors here is challenging at best. I started to take the angle grinder to the alloy speaker mounts to strategically slice them in half in a way that saves the original anchor/fastener points. As I got one halved and then played around with the halves to see how I might fit the 3.5" mid driver to it, I realized it would be a time-suck in regards to the amount of grinding/trimming needed to make the two halves work with the new speaker. I've got some materials on order from Parts Express. PVC sheets, fasteners, back-straps, and some other odds & ends. Probably going to wind up with some PVC sheet rings on bent to fit back-straps in order to create a solid-ish mount for these. I may even be able to incorporate pieces of the original mount (E.g. now halved). When I figure out the best way to modify the first one, I'll rinse and repeat for the other one. I've been adding sound damping mat (Amazon's brand) in a limited/strategic manner to both the door cards and door sheet metal as I go. I've gone back into some sections to add more after listening tests. Seems to help. I've not had enough break-in run time on most of the new speakers yet, but it does sound much better already. One caveat though, it sounds a lot better in regards to the clapped out 2007 ML speakers I replaced. I will say that a GX470 ML Audio Package sounds fantastic when new or in good condition. My previous 2009 GX (I've owned two of this gen GX) sounded phenomenal. Sounded better than my wife's new Mercedes GLE Burmeister premium audio package (Which is just 'meh' by comparison). I still need to replace the front center channel speaker with another one of the Kenwood 3.5" drivers (They are really full range drivers). I'm planning on ordering a replacement dash, so I will do all of that together when I get the new part(s) in. I'm also tempted to do the tesla style tablet radio swap. I may go ahead and pull the trigger on that order.

I guess there is a chance it is degrading, but one thing I suggest checking is making sure the amp is enabled in the head unit menu. I had it disabled at one point and everything sounded flat and underpowered until I found that menu setting. Are you running stock head unit or using the Phoenix one?

@@Awesomoto stock for now. I plan to tackle the non-nav conversion and go with an android HU. Thanks for the heads up on the menu. Going to check that tonight.

@@Awesomoto how do you check the setting for the amp?

You'll want to you stranded copper wire and aim for 14-16g wire

Yes, you can and I've considered going this route. The only thing you need to make sure is that whatever replacement speaker you choose is an 8 ohm impedance speaker.

No you will need 4 ohm speakers. The good thing is you have way more options with 4 ohm speakers.

@@Awesomoto I am having a hard time finding out if the stock GX without ML system have the same speaker sizes or different? Do you happen to know of any plug and pkay replacement options for stock GX. Let me know what you know, appreciate it sir!

Totally up to you. If you have the ML system, I recommend staying with 8 ohm speakers. If you’re a non ML GX, then 4 ohms will be fine. Sounds like the precious owner of your GX modified the sound system.

@@Awesomoto Yeah. Idk. On the Sub box it says Pioneer made in Japan with a Lot number. Speaker looks stock like the one u have,, just with dual 4ohm hookups. Wish I could post a pic. Looks factory. The plug has 4 wires, 2 for each 4 ohm side of the speaker. Last owner looks to have updated the head unit to one of the nice Chinese, hard to say nice and Chinese, Android powered units. I'll just hook it up like it was and see what happens

@@7sunsetmaro7 Oh okay, now I know what you’re saying. Yes, this will still work for you to hook up both voice coils like you said. Follow the same wiring as factory and you should be set!

Apologies for the delay. I think the best way you could do this is to cut a piece of cardboard to the hole in the speaker box. This gives you the ability to trial and error fit with cardboard before cutting. Hopefully this helps.

@@AwesomotoI will do thank you!

You might need to get a flat head under there to break it free.

I believe I used some 16g wire I had laying around. I didn’t measure exactly 8 ohms, but was in the 7.3-7.5 ohm range.

@@Awesomoto Thanks, man. I’ve tried several wires and keep reading 6.3-6.9. Might just send it 😂

@@alexdelgadillo3398 Lmao! Just send it! 😂 But seriously, I’m not sure what the variance on impedance for those speakers could be from unit to unit.

No buzzing from the speaker, but could be crappy microphone on my old camera rig back when I made this video.

It's a 6.5" subwoofer. Here is a link to the skar one I used in the video. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019WYPLIA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@Awesomoto Thanks bro I appreciate it.

16g will work fine for this since it's not drawing much power.

I’ve since released a video installing door speakers. Here’s the link or you can find under the video section on my channel. Thanks for reaching out! 🙏🏻 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ibrA2YFI6vM.html

Great vid!

A really high value DIY is treating doors with sound deadening materials.

Hey WK, Sorry for the delayed response. I used an 18g wire, which might be a little overkill and it was just some wire I had around the house. Amazon has many spools of 18g wire you can buy...just make sure you by stranded and not solid core wire.

Thanks for the reply and helping me learn.

@@wk5156 did you find a good plug and play option for the stock 470 subwoofer replacement? I need to do mine asap :) let me know, thanks

I agree, in hindsight the backdrop was not a good choice lol. I’m not using it for future videos. Thanks for the feedback though, I appreciate any tips to make these videos better!

I honestly wish I had the time myself to do this, but unfortunately I’m in the same situation with little free time lol.

I had some stranded speaker wire laying around my garage.

Hey hmongwild. No, this is about the same bass you would get from the factory sub. Mine was just blown so bad I needed a replacement.

If i go with this I might try to run a small amp to it to give it more thump and a sub controller

Thanks for the feedback! I no longer have that black backdrop up for videos for that reason. It seemed cool at first because each scene had less background distractions, but it caused a lighting issue.

@@Awesomoto no worries, you're doing a great job on the GX. I'm looking to buy one soon and your vids are going to come in handy.

@@derrickdacanay1210 Thanks Derrick! 🙏🏻

Jumper cable is a simple piece of stranded 16-18g wire.

Check the video description. All the links are there.

Hey Brad! I'm sure someone has done this replacement and documented. If you can't find the right video on here, I suggest joining our "GXOR" or "GX470 and GX460 Owners" group on Facebook. People post tons of great info on there for fixing their vehicles.

It's holding up strong, but a larger amp would be nice to drive it harder as it's not being driven nearly to it's capability. I'm curious on where you found this info on the ML amp. I measured the stock speakers with an ohm meter to verify what I had heard on forums about 8 ohm speakers in this vehicle.