An other option is to put a solid disk (like a coin) into the hole. Make sure it is small enough not to get stuck, and thin enough that there is enough thread left to give the removal tool purchase. (an one euro cent will do, a 10 euro cent will fit as well, but might get stuck). Now you can use the pin of the removal tool to press against the coin, which pushes the crack out.
Great video as always. For info, the coin method also works well with a penny (1 pence coin), it bends a bit but that's fine as long as you have enough thread engaged. Bit of a pain to remove compared with Shimano cranks!
Worked perfectly since I had a 10mm beefy allen key and 3 of the classic crank extractors. I was diagnosing a creak, and the culprit was chainring spider creak. This worked for removing the cranks from the bottom bracket spindle, but I still bought the Cannondale spider lockring removal tool KT012 - about $20 - to fully remove the creak.
if you use this technique, make sure the tool threads into the crank arm more than just a couple of turns, you'll strip the crank arm if it's not in at least 1/4"-ish! I sketched out and just loaded up the bottom bracket with sockets until it was full and used the tool the way it was supposed to be used and it worked perfectly.
This is not how it worked out for me. First of all, you need a 12mm hex key to take the black cap off, which I didn't have. Using a 10mm hex key I unscrewed like you did, but the whole crank arm came out (unscrewed out), with the black cap remaining attached. Did Cannondale change something in these intervening years? My bike is an MTB bought in 2020. To replace the crank (the replacement crank came with the black cap attached already) I just placed it on the spindle and screwed it in with the 10mm hex. It was actually even easier than in your video!
Yep, this worked for me too - although it's mildly terrifying because as you're torquing it there's no way to really tell if you are moving the crank or stripping the threads. So I'd say it's alright for a one-off job (permanently replacing the crankset with a new one, say) but if I was working regularly on my main crankset I think I'd spring for the proper tool!
Just finish bulid my Caad12 with Sisl2 but stuck with chain rubb on smaller cog on the cassette. Please advice what could go wrong. Thanks in advance. Regards
Worked great! Thank you. As stated, just make sure the puller is properly and fully threaded in to the crank arm, copious grease, and slow force. For less stuff wobbling around you can remove all the other not required parts from the puller.
Hi :) I would like to replace my FSA 50/34 cransket to 105-5800.(with Campa BB30A to 24mm reduction).Should it work or i need anything else?(CAAD 12,105 5800 everything except crankset)Thanks :)
Hi! Your channel is great! A must for every Cannondale fan out there! I would like to know if there is a way to install a Hollowgram crankset on a Caad 8 with BSA bb shell. Do you know if it is possible, and what bottom bracket adapter and spindle lenght should be used? Thanks in advance, and keep the good work! Cheers from Brazil!
Great video ! I'd suggest making the video about pressfit bb30A. You can read a lot of complaints on the system from users. Especially on noise from bearing when they misalign. There are some alternatives like praxiscycles conversion bb. Would be lovely to know your thoughts on the topic.
Hello, I’m running into a problem here with a little project. I have a 2015 Cannondale CAAD8, and I’ve bought a Cannondale SI crankset, which is a little bit lighter than the FSA Omega. The problem is that when the new crankset was installed the spindle is bigger “in length” than the FSA, which it cause a gap in the non drive arm. I’m pretty sure I’m going to need to buy a set of spacers, but I have no idea which ones would be the best. If you have any knowledge about this problem, would be great if you share it. Thanks.
Do any of you have a service manual (PDF) or know of a site where I can see what tools I need to work on Cannondale Slate. I would also be interested in how to change the bearings and the rear axle. For tips, tricks and links please send me a PN. Thanks
Thanks a lot here from Brazil, SickBiker! In my case it was exacly what I was looking for! I have the some tools and a will follow your preocedure. Best regards and success to you!
Witam czy jest możliwość podana nazwy klucza do tej korby cannondale HollowGram, BB30a, OPI SpideRing, 34T, Ai offset jaki klucz żeby odkręcić i sciagnac korbę dziękuje za odpowiedz pozdrawiam Tomek
Doesn’t work! Just tightens against the crank arm itself. You need to tighten the center bolt with a adapter to push against the bottom bracket spindle.
Just buy the specific tool so you don't destroy the shreads on you expensive crank.. if you can afford a bike with a Hollowgram you can also afford the tool.. "not using additional tools"
@@rafagawedzki5791 The tool is cheap and design for the SI cranks, the tool that has been fitted is metric and the Cannondale in imperial tread. not so much of an issue on those crank but on the sisl2 that is a big problem.
This is my first road ru-vid.comUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and I have taken it out a handful of times and so far it is exceeding all of my expectations. I didn’t want to break the bank on a first bike and the herd is a great option for getting a fast bike with reliable components. I plan on riding this bike for many years to come. Thank you Sava!
FFS!! Cannondale Si cranks are not far from $800, just get the right tool for around $30 and PLEASE tourqe it to the right spec. if it gets loose you will never be able to fix it, it damages the spline and will always wiggle loose.. Amateur!
Very risky and could easily do damage to the outer threads of crank arm -- don't do this! Just get a short ratchet extension bar that fits the into the length of the bottom bracket. Then use the crank extractor tool to push off of the end of that bar to pry off the crank arm 😎