Hammer push off in Smith & Wesson revolver 

Can understand you perfectly. You did a fantastic job. In school for gunsmithing and this helped a lot. Thank you very much 🙏👍🙂

Your video was simple and informative. Thank you

English is my first language and I understood you perfectly, very good video! Your explanation of what causes push off was very informative and understandable, and the great visuals of how the trigger and hammer interact was very helpful in understanding how delicate and precise these parts work together. Thanks for the great video!

Hi, Great video. I especially like the close up camera work you used to demonstrate the action and using a pick to show where the damage and wear was. Few videos do that and you did it well. It shows clearly the issue. camera stability was perfect. I didn't get a headache from shaky, amateurish camera handling. One thing I would mention is that there should never really be any modification to hammer/trigger engagement when the parts are case hardened, as most S&W revolvers are. That case hardening is why you didn't see much wear on older heavy use guns. Along with just a smidgeon of oil, the wear will be minimal for the average life of the gun. Well, I guess unless you pull the trigger literally 100,000 times. The technical part of this is that by filing it, you end up removing the case hardening and exposing the un hardened metal, EVEN IF you get the angle perfect. The wearing surfaces will suffer significantly accelerated wear out because the hardened surface is gone. Just restoning it will fix it temporarily, but the protection and hardening is gone. Unless your insurance (whichever one might be applicable here) can handle the liability, if you ever see push off that's caused by a failed amateur trigger job (and I've seen quite a bit), I would probably just simply automatically replace the hammer/trigger pair. You have to remove them anyway, so there's no use in replacing a damaged set of parts that could cause an unexpected discharge of the firearm down the line somewhere.

Thank you so much! Unlike the clowns that take their time to post video about the problem, you actually took time to post a solution and in very good quality. Your english is great! To note, this job can also be done with whetstone, like the ones they use for sharpening knives. Also sandpaper taped or glued to any long even surface. The longer the stone, the less the angle, so nose will not be as sharp. 1) provides more material for slower wear 2) less angle means SA pull will not suffer as much. Your angle shown is a bit steep. Mine came out closer to 90 degrees and works extremely well for SA pull. Thank you very very much! You helped me understand the basics for the fix where no one could.

Your English is great. I think sometimes we are much more critical on ourselves that others would be. 👍🏻

You should do more gun videos You explain things really good

Good info

Thank you !! I bought a 629 SW 44mag used And has push I can fix it THANK YOU !!

My model 629 classic does not have push off but it does seem to over cock ? How do I fix that ???

I am not entirely sure you are correct. I had a stock hammer, with little or no work done to it. It worked flawlessly with 2 triggers. The original trigger was replaced with the second trigger ( a nonserated, thinner trigger). This trigger was not satisfactory, but worked correctly. I purchased a third used trigger, which now does the job I intended... but..... now I have pushoff. The pushoff began with the third trigger with no work having been done to hammer. So push off, it seems can occur with an altered/damaged trigger. Are you saying this can be fixed? (Since the issue seems to be with the trigger?) By the way, your English is fabulous.

Several omissions and errors in this video. You should never operate the action under spring tension....or check for push off, with the sideplate off. And, without marking the bevel during stoning (Dykem), and checking it periodically with a magnifier, it's nearly impossible to tell when the correction is complete, and the bevel is sharp. It's very important to only remove the amount of material necessary. This is not as critically important when resurfacing the MIM trigger bevel, but is very important when stoning a case hardened trigger, as the hardened surface is very thin. There is no mention of also checking the cocking notch in the hammer for damage prior to the repair.....and you don't recommend checking the trigger with a pull gauge to verify it is safe after the repair is completed. (3+ pounds) You also state that this condition (push off) can only be caused by wear, or improper modification of the parts. There are, in fact, other factors that can contribute to this condition, including weak, damaged or altered rebound spring, excessive gauge on the hammer and or trigger studs, and excessive sideplay on the hammer or trigger. These conditions should also be checked out before the repair. Caution: Another important thing I didn't hear mentioned is that this repair only works properly, restoring the proper angle to the trigger bevel, if you use the proper Norton 6" medium India stone.

good video but did you install a new hammer?

What kind of stone was that?

Mau saya beli bang ...bagaimana ..?

Why did you think that you needed to wear those silly plastic gloves ??