Handplanes - Low Angle vs. High Angle 

+gmdille My right ear was surprised to hear the music at the end.

+gmdille And I enjoyed a great laugh, while reading this. Thank you.

I thought my headphones were not working. I moved all the cable between my fingers to find the broken part...

Put your phone to mono. Unless you have multiple "5" drivers, you're missing alot. Mono is king.

+Andre arco-strings I mostly use high angle planes, and only have a small low angle plane. Both types work equally well for all kinds of wood in my experience. The key with both is sharp blades and not to heavy of a cut, and they will do almost anything (I have even planed aluminium with both, it's hard work, but it works).

I pretty much only use a low angle plain, and have found it to work well in hard wood, soft wood, endgrain...pretty much everything I have thrown at it.

+SYLVESTRIVS they are both lie nielsen hand planes, so the lie nielsen website

the micro bevel , should you decide to use one IS the cutting angle. The rest of the blade is just out of the way. It has the advantage of only having to sharpen the very very edge when you fresh it up. If you don;lt use a micro bevel, then you have to remove material from the entire surface instead of just the very very edge.

michael barnes got it...thank you!

Carefully put fine grade paper on a flat piece of glass or granite and just polish scratches flat so not raised and leave it like that until your more confidant. It is very easy to introduce defects while lapping if your not 100% confidant. There's lots of videos on RU-vid about lapping planes

Adam Lynch Thanks Adam. I will try that. Have a great day.

If these are the original models from the old Stanley, the low angle Jack in particular is of considerable value. A dent or two isn't a huge deal, you can do a lot more damage to the plane trying to take the dents out than anything. Lapping though is quite useful for flattening planes. If the dents you are talking about chip towards the bottom of the plane and scratch the wood when you plane, simply file them out. But if they are dents like pits on the sole, then plz smooth them a bit so no sharp edges show, but do not, do not, do notttt keep sanding until they are out, your planes will most likely be out of flat after that much sanding and you will have literally taken a whole layer off of the plane, potentially ruining it.

Vincent Tai First I just wanted to say thank you for information. The dents I have is at the bottom and it will make a marks on the wood. It is brand new Stanley No.62 low jack. I have it sent to me from USA to Thailand. Thank you for your suggestion. I'll give it a try. Have a wonderful day. Mai

Jason Blanton the chip breaker should sit as close to the edge as possible, but not flush. Very close. 1/64" or even closer if you can reliably do so.

It's not really possible to use the plane properly of the chip breaker was set exactly flush to the edge of the blade, this would form a new "edge" if that makes since. Setting the chipbreaker very close to the edge prevents tear out and you can do this with a standard frog so you don't have to purchase a high angle frog. Playing with the chipbreaker can really change ones planing experience, using any plane, western, or Japanese, Stanley, or Nielsen. However you really only have to set it real close when you need to, if your planing a piece of wood nicely with the chip breakers within 3 mil of the blade edge, no need to chase it.

Jason Blanton a chip breaker Can be as far as 1/16 away from the edge. As the name suggests it should break the Chips( what malkes Them role) and malkes it possible to take very long shavings.

English? Al parecer es mejor el low angle. Mas facil de ajustar, no se atoran las rebabas de madera entre la navaja y el soporte. Sólo que son más caritos...

Never heard of such a thing. Bailey planes adjust the frog like these bedrocks, but you have to remove the blade assembly to do so. Veritas bevel down planes planes have adjustable mouth like the bevel ups.