Harbor Freight air tank valve modification/upgrade 

yes that schreader tank fill valve is week. mine failed with very very little use. I'll ccpy your solution. thanks for the video, I find it very informative and well done!

thanks! this is exactly what I'm looking for. I'm trying to do the same thing and couldn't figure out where to go after removing the tank manifold.

yes, well done video, love how you tell us everything from start to finish

Great video, thank you for sharing your mods, going to do the same thing on my tanks, i do a lot of offroading, so I’m constantly airing up my tires

Cool modification!! Great little video.

Thank you for this video. Good information including a parts list. It is very straight forward and to the point (not a lot of fluff that makes most videos too long). I'm doing the same modification and this video really helped.

You don't have to do anything this complicated. Just remove the 1/4 hose from the existing manifold, and put a quick-connect tee into the fitting. Then the fill hose goes is one side of the tee, and the outlet hose goes in the other end. Because both sides have quick-connects, no valves are needed.

OK, I watched your two videos out of order. I plumbed the reserve tank in essentially the same way, except I used a 4 way cross instead of 2 T's. Question: Isn't the coupling for outflow only? Are you able to fill the reserve tank through the coupling and then also have it discharge air back to the tool through the T at the compressor?

I really wish someone made a single unit for doing this.

Not sure why you need a shut off valve in front of a quick connector? Also That is a big lever of parts on that little 1/4 thread. for me a single T with saftey valve and a quick connector is all that's needed.

And that tank, has any oulet to drain the water?

What do you usually do with the portable tank, light duty tasks? Going from 1/2" to 1/4" seems like it'll be highly restrictive. It's fine if you only do light duty tasks and don't need to maximize flow. An alternative, in order to maximize air flow, would be to use a 1/2" brass street tee off the tank. This will allow the reuse of the existing relief valve and gauge assembly (will also need a brass hex plug if removing the hose on the assembly). On the other outlet on the tee use a 1/2" to 3/8" brass reducer to a 3/8" valve. Then use the 1/4" reducer for the coupler. Couplers are usually the biggest bottlenecks in air flow, but those 1/4" tees and 1/4" valve will add even more restrictions.

shouldn't you have a regulator before the gauge in order to regulate the pressure you need for the certain tool you are using?

How in the heck did you get the original manifold out of the bung? I can’t get mine to budge.

Filler nozzle is called a Schrader valve- fyi

How do you drain the tank?

I tried to take mine off. It started to turn then wouldn't turn. Should I heavy hand it and just keep insisting it turns? I have the same tank. Again, the assembly starts to turn and then I can't turn it

how do you seal the threads?

Cool but overkill on the connections.

Can you turn your volume up please.

You should be using teflon tape even if it doesn't leak.

dude you skipped the whole procedure

Very poor explanation you need to show physically how it's done