Thanks to this video, I successfully created a hoist for my truck topper last summer. I had done much research and spent many hours trying to figure it out. I hit a road block and almost gave up after hours and days of minimal progress. Before I fell asleep I had remembered this video and how your hoist was directly pulling your trailer back without any interruptions or distractions. It was direct. This was the final piece to successfully creating a very successful and useful pulley system. Thank you
Die Endabschaltung einfach abbauen ist das aller letzte was man tun sollte!! Das wurde von KEINEM HERSTELLER so gedacht!!..viel Glück, mein Freund, das wirst Du brauchen....
I have landed on this vido 3 times now. It's old but if you like what brad has done here know that you could halve the safety bar so that the cable can hang down and not activate the safety cutoff. Remove a section of that ring so that the disc still has something to bump against. Remember removing an engineered safety device is never smart so just taking a small part of it away MAY work for you.
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just a tip, if you used a "snatch block" you would effectively cut your lifting speed in half and double the strength of your hoist. ( i know this video is old but trying to help) not only would it reduce your strain put on the walls but would slow the lift down so it wasnt so crazy lol
keegancdr - part of you statement is correct. While using a snatch block will reduce line speed and load on the motor as the trailer is lifted, the force applied to the wall would be constant at any given point in the trailer’s arc. Think of this from the perspective of a vertical lift. The motor load is decreased on the motor but the beam would still carry the entire weight of the hoist system and load.
Thanks for sharing. How did you mount the hoist to the wall. Most of the mounting that I see suggests a metal rod or pipe. I would love to do something similar.
FarmingFractals oh I just found the studs and drilled into them then I just got some long wood screws and attached the board. super simple. that trailer ways a ton so it just goes to show how strong the studs are behind the wall if you have enough studs connected to the board... don't think to much into it. thanks for the comment
I did something similar. First I found the studs in the wall, then measured a board that reached at least four studs. Then I mounted the electric hoist to the board and then mounted it to the wall in the middle of the four studs
The hoist holes require a 2 x 6 (or larger) board to mount it to. If you're then going to mount the assembled unit flush to another board you'll need to drill recess holes in the 2 x 6 so the bolt heads don't protrude; and, the 2 x 6 must be long enough to allow room for the connecting lag bolts.
Question for ya.. How did you mount the hoist to the 2"x8" piece of wood? I am guessing you bought longer bolts and countersunk them into the wood. Than bolted the 2"x8" wood to the 2"x4" wall studs. I am about to do the same and just wondered if that is how you did it and how well did it hold up after 9 years?
Does the cable ever get snarled? I was wanting to use something like this but my other cable hoist has problems winding the cable smoothly sometimes so was not sure if this would be the case with this hoist.
I hope you install chains to hold the trailer against the wall in the event the hoist slips and the trailer randomly comes crashing down on you or someone unlucky enough to be in the vicinity!
Hi I Like This! I just acquired a Ford E350 Heavy Duty Van and was wondering If I could place it inside to help Me lift heavy items into the Van for Transportation. Yesss I'm a Female :O) ...I'm wondering How I could mount it or be able to Roll it from the inside of the van's roof for mobility... Hummmm?? TFSyour Video (a Light bulb lid Up!) LOL
Oh my gosh I am so sorry I never got back to you. A atv winch from harbor freight would be a thousand times easier to use and very cheap. Also it runs off of 12v. "Car electricity"
@@brads3111 so the bolts holding the hoist to the board are sticking out of the wood creating a separation between the board and the wall? I am asking because I might need to do something like that but I had no idea of what board size to use. if I use 2x4 (1.5x3.5) and I make the head of the screws 1/2 inch deep into the wood to make it flush with the wall, I will have 1 inch only of wood. I am deciding between board or a 12-Gauge Half Slotted Metal Framing Strut Channel.
@@JavierRivera so the wall is made of drywall which is kind of soft. Those bolts holding the hoist to the board were pushed into the drywall just a little. I wouldnt worry about how flush the bolts are. I would be more scared about ripping down your entire wall. Can your wall handle the weight?
very dangerous. wall is held with nails and will kill you if you remove sheet rock and use deck so screws and plywood the wall and then sheet rock. sound advice!
thats why the weight is spread over 6 diffrent 2x4 and if it breaks it will break on raising or lowering and thats when your out of the way. ya it is scary as heck when it goes up. tour the first one to notice that. good eyes bro. anyways its been reinforced since this vid.
