Harley Davidson FL Front Motor Mount Replacement

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Replacing the front rubber motor mount on a 1997 Road King FLHR with a urethane motor mount from Drag Specialties, model DS-243515. It is said to also fit Harley Davidson 1982-1994, 1999 FXR, FXRS, FXRT; 1980-2008 FLT, FLHT, Made to replace OEM NO. 16207-79B. I also pushed the motor and transmission forward before tightening down the main bolt as shown at about 8 minutes into this video; • GlidePro Stabilizing S... . It seems to form a 'triangle of stability' within the frame for the motor and transmission. This bike has just over 47,000 miles on it, and I have read that the service manual recommends replacing the front every 25K-35K miles. The urethane motor mount feels more solid than the rubber one. The engine still shakes the bike, but just not as extreme. It is more subdued or tamed now. Cruising at 50 mph and up it smooths right out on my bike. There are some spots in the rpm's that seem to vibrate more than others, but the urethane seems to be trying to hold it more still than before. I will update any findings in future riding as they become noticed. Feel free to comment with your concerns and ideas. Thanks for watching.
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Опубликовано:

23 окт 2024

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Комментарии : 133

@CNSTAdventures Месяц назад

I have 06 Streetglide FLHX and this video covers probably any Harley , my guess . But from the videos I’ve seen the only thing that differs is the part number . Thank you man awesome job !

@contact4mwy7 Месяц назад

@@CNSTAdventures I think in 2007 this setup was changed with the newer frame design, so it should be the same for your 2006.

@BruceLaVerdiere Год назад

Thanks for sharing! Good job. One thing, though, you didn’t show us when you were actually taking the bolts or the parts out. That would be very helpful although you did explain it. Well it’s always nice to see somebody actually doing the same job you’re getting ready to do lol! Thanks again.

@bobberguy1 9 лет назад

Thank you for sharing. The engine oil dumped on front motor mount causes premature failure. I made a plastic 'trough" to drain oil to pan on left side of bike.

@ToddEdmondson 5 лет назад

Great video: My bars vibrate quite a bit when idling at a traffic light. I think it's either this motor mount or the riser bar bushings. Thank you for the video and detail about the dogbone connection and tricks to get that old one out. I will be changing mine soon.

@ToddEdmondson 4 года назад

My Fatboy doesn’t have the bushings like that. The ones with it are tight. My issue I suspect is from my motor - the vibration is noticeable when not moving and when going slow under 30m/hr I’ve now got what sounds like a lifter sound. Dealer appt on Thurs.

@contact4mwy7 4 года назад

I hope it's not internal and more to do with motor/frame contact maybe? What year is it?

@ToddEdmondson 4 года назад

It’s a 2000. Vibration issue is new and the lifter sound is after that. Hopefully a smooth running motor fixed the excessive vibration in the bars at low speeds.

@Claudebonegt 8 лет назад

Mark, I got the new mount on and thought it was gonna rattle my teeth out when I went for a ride. LOL! I don't think I let it run long enough with all the bolts loose the first time. I loosened the three mount bolts and let it run 6 to 8 minutes giving it some throttle from time to time and then torqued the center bolt to 18 foot pounds and it's much better. I may back it off to 15 foot pounds and see if there's a difference. Thanks again for the video and ride safe buddy!

@contact4mwy7 8 лет назад

+Claudebonegt Glad to hear it went in for you alright. I have the outer 2 bolts torqued right down, but I can only guess that I have the center bolt at "maybe" 5 foot pounds? I mean, I literally stopped tightening it as soon as each end was in contact with their mounting plates. I did this after I had tightened it up fairly tight and felt as though the vibrations were worse than with the worn out motor mount. After loosening the bolt and just making contact with the mounting plates the ride was much smoother with less vibration carried through the bike. Almost like the difference between a solid mount motor and a rubber mount motor. Get and use some Loctite on that nut so it doesn't fall off on its own, and experiment with it like I did. Good luck, and you ride safe too my friend!

@poppadendennis 8 лет назад

My bike is a 2001 FLHTC Classic and it wasn't quite a snap to do but once I rewatched your video and loosened all the nuts and bolts and got the oil cooler out of the way it wasn't too bad. I removed my front wheel and yanked my front fender to make the job a little easier and I figured as long as I went to the bother of doing that I might as well change my front tire..... that was a blast doin that in my driveway !! Everything went well so I figured I'd drop you a line to say thanks for the very informative video.

@contact4mwy7 8 лет назад

I'm really glad to hear that, Dennis! Thanks for taking the time to let me know, and ride safe!

@mikesebach4923 7 лет назад

Mark Young - Outside The Box j

@rgmann1 7 лет назад

We did this today and it went soo easy and saved $80 from not taking to dealer.Thanks for your video.

@contact4mwy7 7 лет назад

I'm glad it helped out! This also shows what a dealer or shop would have to go through to get the same thing done. Sometimes these projects can be DIY, but when they are not, those mechanics will take good care of us!

@CNSTAdventures Месяц назад

For the price of the dealer you can get all special tools , learn it yourself and have bonding time with your bike(as my ole lady calls it lol) any the while having pride knowing you did it! Videos like this are invaluable

@danielmason3921 5 месяцев назад

Great video! I recently replaced my front mount hoping to cure the vibration but it seems to have gotten worse. I tightened all the bolts very tight so im hoping thats my issue with the center bolt. Ill be loosening and lock titing the bolt and then retesting. Thanks!

@KyleEdwardsPhoto 7 лет назад

Huge thanks for the walkthrough! You made easy work out of what would've been an otherwise (very) annoying job, and I thank you for it.

@contact4mwy7 7 лет назад

Glad it helped you out, Kyle, thanks for watching and the comments!

@rtg3571 7 лет назад

Hi Mark... Great Video and information with everyones comments have given me plenty to work with. I have the same bike as you (97 road king) and noticed a jingling the last few weeks along with more of vibration. took apart everything from headlight nacelle to throttle body and muffling as much as possible. sunday morning at my buddies he noticed it was the center bolt on the mount so I just tightened it. Holy crap... I thought my teeth were gonna fall out. Anyway...picking up the mount(drag specialties at local shop and putting in saturday. Using all this info... really explains alot. Ill update how it all turned out!! Thanks Robbin

@contact4mwy7 7 лет назад

Thank you, Robbin, glad to hear it. I was noticing more vibration through the frame, especially at certain RPM's, which led me to replace the front motor mount. The propylene mount is a bit stiffer than the rubber, so if you snug that bolt right up tight you will feel a lot of vibration, but leaving it just so the ends touch with very little wrench pressure gave it the relief it needed. Remember to LocTite the nuts!!

@rtg3571 7 лет назад

Hi Mark...watching your video and then seeing the bike.... LOL!!! I own that Road King!!! I bought it at National Power sports in New hampshire. I love it like my first born...You certainly took very good care of it and I can see alot of what was done on the videos!!! I hope you dont mind if I picked your brain every once in a while! Thanks Robbin

@contact4mwy7 7 лет назад

Are YOU KIDDING ME??!! Hahaha. I've been looking on facebook and such to see if anyone has posted any pictures of "their new Harley," wondering where it went! I miss that bike! Now, as far as vibration goes, I had a bit of a sway in the swingarm which needed to be addressed. So I added a new set of rear transmission rubber mounts (as the swingarm is attached to transmission, not the frame), AND a metal brace that mounts from the transmission to the frame (they go for some $$). You can see this brace on the right side of the bike below the transmission with allen head bolts on each end, kinda looks like a turnbuckle. The reason I bring this up is that I believe that brace is allowing more vibration into the frame than before I mounted it, but I never tried riding the bike with just the new rubber mounts added with no brace to see how it handled. Also, I had a Pirelli rear tire that was a poor choice as it affected the handling making the rear feel worse, which is why I replaced the mounts and added the brace. When I put the brand new Dunlop on this Spring it made a WORLD of difference! Even my wife noticed it, as we rode it to Americade and back right before I traded it in. Trust me, stick with the stock tires every time you replace them. I put 2 ounces of ceramic beads inside both tires, front and rear, instead of the weights for balancing them. Never had any regrets doing that. Ok, so getting to the point: Try removing the two allen bolts from the brace, keeping track of which way the spacers are placed on the bolt, and then go for a ride and see if the amount of vibration has gone down. On a side note too, I noticed the re-weld on the rear luggage rack had broken free where the seat rest attaches and was making a rattling noise. Have someone re-weld that again if you haven't noticed it already. I have more, you should message me your phone number. Thanks for letting me know!

@sivadoc 6 лет назад

Awesome video. My front motor mount was split in half and one of the bolts in the plate snapped - on my first ride with my wife! 120 $ in parts (HD wanted 200 $+ for the job). Your video made it an easy fix. Thank you.

@contact4mwy7 6 лет назад

Glad it helped you out, Geir, thanks for letting me know!

@redtruck32 6 лет назад

Geir Kastmo which mount did you buy?

@sivadoc 6 лет назад

I bought the original Harley mount because that was what i could get fastest. WILL try urethane next season just to compare. Mine shakes more now, just above idle, than it did before I replaced the mount.

@contact4mwy7 6 лет назад

@@sivadoc did you try loosening the bolt slightly (and thread locking the nut) to give the mount a little jiggle room? I tightened mine right up snug at first and felt a LOT of vibration and shake. After loosening it a half a turn or so, I noticed it felt a bit smoother than with it snugged tight. Experiment, but use lots of thread locker... You don't want to lose that nut and bolt!

@sivadoc 6 лет назад

I will give that a try, as I know I torqued it towards the high-end of the recommendation (Clymer manual). Thanks for the tip! I will post back the result in 1 or 2 days.

@pcoggins 9 лет назад

Mark, Your detailed account of the replacement worked like a charm. Although I did have to drain the oil and pull the filter to get to the bolt that holds the plate. Good thing I needed to do an oil change too. Also, I did not pull anything forward like your added note said. Just made sure to snug it up and put some thread lock on it. Thanks for sharing. I performed this on a 2003 H-D Electra Glide Classic FLHTCI where there was a crack almost half way around on the bottom side of the front motor mount rubber grommet.

@contact4mwy7 9 лет назад

+Paul Coggins Good job man! I'm glad it worked out for you. I found it shakes the bike less with the bolt just snug and not 'tight.' Ride safe!

@beckyw.6314 3 года назад

Thanks for making the video I like to do stuff myself watching a video so much easier then going to the Manual

@contact4mwy7 3 года назад

You're welcome, thank you for saying so.

@nobodysreview6137 2 года назад

I'm at 27k miles on my 2013 Streetglide and i just checked my mounts, they seem firm and look fine. Maybe these are made better or something. Vibration seems fine for now as well.

@autumnknight8710 9 лет назад

Mark, after watching your video I have one observation. By pulling the motor and transmission forward (thus snugging the swing arm axle rubber grommet-forward), my concern is this: Certainly this action would create forward compression on the rubber by it's orientation (inside the axle tube) but would that not further reduce the life on that rubber grommet?

@contact4mwy7 9 лет назад

+Bruce Orr That's a good point, Bruce, and I am not sure what the answer is to that question. I have noticed the bike feels less 'squirmy' in the corners or on rough roads. If I notice any ill side effects I will be sure to update the description above with those notes. Thank you.

@herbjackson1442 Год назад

It's designed to float reason for the slot. Just ask Doc Harley or watch his video. 😊

@grabir01 7 лет назад

Did you loosen your belt final drive? If you have tension on your drive belt, that will prevent the motor from moving forward as well.

@contact4mwy7 7 лет назад

Actually, it won't interfere with it as the swingarm is mounted to the rear of the transmission, not the frame. So the engine - transmission - swingarm all move as one assembly. Belt tension will not play a role in this scenario either as the transmission and swingarm are mounted to each other. It is the engineering of this setup that makes proper alignment and bushing stiffness very important. I also added a rear stabilizer link that connects the rear of the transmission to the frame to help with the rear tire alignment to remain more resistant to flexing around corners or on rough pavement. Well worth the investment in my opinion. Thanks for watching my video and asking questions!

@ceemore5862 9 месяцев назад

Harley Davidson stopped using that motor mount in 2005. Check out service bulletin M-1182. You can get the upgraded mount at the dealer.

@98chicagobears 6 месяцев назад

hey Mark nice viseo i got to change my motor mount also my bike jumps up and down like crazy. i want to know were did you buy the motor mount at. and how much was it thanks.

@contact4mwy7 6 месяцев назад

I believe I bought it through JP Cycles, I don't remember how much it was, but it was worth every dollar.

@proskuchev 2 года назад

Thanks a lot for your video! Very helpfull

@thomasking1137 4 месяца назад

Did you adjust your belt because of the added pressure to it from pulling the engine forward?

@contact4mwy7 4 месяца назад

I did not.

@Claudebonegt 9 лет назад

How did the motor and transmission move forward without loosening the exhaust? Seems like a fully bolted and tight exhaust would keep it from coming forward.

@contact4mwy7 9 лет назад

+Claudebonegt The mounts for the mufflers allow them to slide front to back, it's the way they are made. If you look closely at the muffler mount you'll see a flat piece of steel that can slide within a rubber-lined bracket. The exhaust is mounted to the transmission, I believe, on the right side about mid-way back after the floorboard. Since the transmission moves along with the engine this does not present a problem. Good question, thanks for asking!

@shamalanon-time4209 3 года назад

Thank you for this video. Would it make sense to loosen the transmission mounts and swing arm bolts before pulling the engine forward? Am a lil worried to damage those bushings to fix the front

@contact4mwy7 3 года назад

I didn't, and I don't think it will change things that much to make it worth the effort. That's my thoughts on it anyway. Good luck!

@shamalanon-time4209 3 года назад

May I ask what were the symptoms like which made you decide to look at this mount please? For me, I have been getting a strange and clearly noticeable feedback to the footrest on a 2003 Road King when the road is not even. When i spoke with mechanics, they pointed to the rear absorber though I thought it might be swing arm bearing or bushes. Since thats a very time and cost consuming affair, am now thinking to try this out first and see if the issue goes away

@contact4mwy7 3 года назад

I was feeling increased motor vibrations through the frame. The rubber was worn out and not able to keep the motor from flattening it against the frame. I had also replaced the rear rubber mounts as there was beginning a feeling of wandering on the road, like when going over cracks, etc. If the rear rubber mounts wear out the back of the transmission and swingarm start to wonder due to the loose play in the rubber. After replacement the bike handle much better.

@shamalanon-time4209 3 года назад

@@contact4mwy7 by the rear mount rubbers, are those that are along the the swing arm pivot right ? or is it another item ? TIA

@contact4mwy7 3 года назад

The rear rubber mounts actually hold the transmission case in place. The rear swingarm is mounted through bearings TO the transmission case. That's why when those rubber mount pucks wear out the rear wheel can wander because the transmission can move around more than it should. Since the swingarm is mounted to the transmission, not the frame, they can lead to poor handling and feeling loose over cracks or around corners.

@kenbuttone8775 4 года назад

Thanks for the helpful video

@tonyroemmele8125 5 лет назад

i just had mine replaced and at idle and low rpms it shakes really bad the guy who replaced it said thats how it is? any commits?

@contact4mwy7 5 лет назад

The center bolt may be too tight. Make sure you have Loctite on the threads so you don't lose the nut and put the nut back on and stop tightening when it snugs up against the base plate. The tighter that nut gets the more it shakes through the frame.

@poppadendennis 8 лет назад

Just got back from a nice little putt and I thought I'd let you know how impressed I am. The bike hasn't tracked and handled this well since I've owned it ( bought it new ) and I've never been able to let go of the bars without the front end practically shaking me off the bike. This was definately not something for someone not real handy with wrenches to tackle but the results are amazing. P.S. I haven't noticed any reduction in the vibration but hey it's a Harley so a bit of vibration is expected right ? Thanks again for the informative video bro. Dennis

@Claudebonegt 8 лет назад

LOL! I'm going to do this on my Road King today and I have another question. I realize you might not see this before I do it but for the benefit of others who are going to do it I'll ask. When you pull the engine forward and just "snug" the mount bolt, is it still tight enough to keep the motor from sliding back to where it was? Seems like it would need to be pretty tight to keep this from happening. Thanks for the video and the answer to my previous question.

@contact4mwy7 8 лет назад

+Claudebonegt You know, Claude, that's a good question! I took a second look at the video and realize that the hole in the mount to the motor is elongated enough that it just might give some of that snugness back to the rear transmission mounts. All I can say is try to keep the rubber motor mount as far forward as possible when you tighten the outer-side bolts up to maybe lessen how much the center bolt can slide backwards? Thanks for pointing that out. With the center bolt still just tight enough so you can feel it start to clamp up, but not loose enough for it to rattle, my bike is still driving very well and I am very pleased with how it is working and transferring power to the wheel where it belongs. Let me know how yours works out!

@aldinahuzejrovic2409 7 лет назад

Claudebonegt if your manual doesn't say to do it, then don't do it. replace the rubber SA/trans mounts if anything . that's adding additional and unnecessary stresses to your SA bushings and aforementioned rubber trans mounts.

@loganorr6145 2 года назад

It stayed a little rough because it's urethane not rubber like you're used to. It's like urethane or steel riser bushings vs rubber the more solid it is the more you'll feel it

@joeweber5914 Год назад

Really good video .I appreciate it. .

@seanriley2959 Год назад

I'd think that would possibly cause uneven wear on the rear bushing defeating the purpose of the bushing. Just change all the bushings exactly how Harley says it should be done. You may not feel anything to be wrong till one day you gun it and around 75 80 mph the death wobble starts.

@jeremyheuman4990 7 лет назад

Great video one question: I have a chirping sound coming from the engine. I have tightened the nuts where the exhaust meets the V twin and the chirp is still there. Could a defective motor mount be the cause for this chirp? I am riding a 2015 Ultra Limited with a little over 22K miles on it

@contact4mwy7 7 лет назад

It's hard to tell without being right there to listen to it and for it, but Jeremy, I had a chirping sound coming from my bike that I noticed not too long after I bought it. This 1997 King in the video here. At first I thought it may be just one of the normal sounds from the bike, but I later discovered a cracked rubber boot (used to plug an intake test port) on my carburetor, replaced it with a brand new one, and no more chirp! Could yours have a vacuum line or rubber boot that is cracked or loose and is making the "chirp" sound as the piston intakes another charge of air, like mine?

@davetugboat6413 7 лет назад

just an idea....you might try tapping around the engine and frame with a rubber mallet.

@tomsmith1390 7 лет назад

It is probably your belt drive running against the pulley. Check the belt tension, clean it and use a stick of wax on the edges of the belt. If it quits you know the problem, if it comes back [usually from rock covered roads] don't sweat it. Ride the thing.

@jojojeep1 6 лет назад

90% of the time that chirping sound is a bad head gasket

@scrimshank1 5 месяцев назад

Why couldn't you just scribe a mark around the old mount before loosening anything and align the new one according to the marked outline?

@contact4mwy7 5 месяцев назад

You could do that I suppose. I don't know if the outcome would be the same.

@proskuchev 2 года назад

if we move engine foward does it load the fork more than should be?

@contact4mwy7 2 года назад

Not that I noticed. I don't think it moved ahead more than maybe an inch. I couldn't feel a difference.

@RetiredNavy 6 лет назад

Thank you for the video, you saved me a bunch of time.

@contact4mwy7 6 лет назад

Right on! Happy riding!

@haroldberinger2321 6 лет назад

The mount i GOT has a 1/2 inch hole and the center bolt is 3/8?????????? please reply hbgold4me@gmail.com

@sammyyerushalmi2530 2 года назад

I change the motor mount but the bike keeps on shaking when it starts

@davidhardison3017 4 года назад

Did you have the bike on the kickstand or have it on a stand?

@contact4mwy7 4 года назад

I believe the bike was on my bike jack to lift it up a bit and keep it level. Have to be careful it doesn't get tipped over though.

@brentmack51 7 лет назад

wow sharky you're famous I'm looking for a tear down for my fxr and you poped up

@contact4mwy7 7 лет назад

Haha, glad you found me! Just videos of me puttering on things. Good luck with your FXR!

@jflory0207 Год назад

What did you torque the 3 boots at the end to?

@contact4mwy7 Год назад

Remember to use Blue Loctite on all nuts/bolts. I don't remember exactly, but a few forums say 21 to 27 foot pounds for the outer bolts with fine threads. I found it I torqued the center bolt it sent engine vibration into the frame, which is why I reapplied Blue Loctite and only turned the nut until I felt pressure against the mount. Just snug. This was using a urethane isolator, which is a bit stiffer. Your results may vary.

@cdp922 6 лет назад

Well done great video!!! Lots of good info!! BUT !! Using the Drag part caused shaking replace w OEM Harley cost 90 bucks took care of it and back to twisting the throttle.

@contact4mwy7 6 лет назад

Curtis Petro Thanks for the comment. I did notice more vibration with the urethane unit, and that backing off the nut just a bit, with loctite, did help. Glad the video helped you out, man!

@kirbazoid 9 лет назад

Why didn't you do the rear rubbers? It seems like they would cause a lot More vibration because there is metal In the center of them?

@contact4mwy7 9 лет назад

kirbazoid I saw that most of the movement was at the front of the motor at the motor mount. The back of the motor and transmission seemed to be relatively still. I have not seen a recommendation on when to replace the rear mounts, but if they are determined to be causing problems you can bet I will be replacing them too!

@robertsample42 8 лет назад

kirbazoid

@contact4mwy7 8 лет назад

I probably should have done them all at the same time, yes. I have since replaced the rear (swingarm) bushings, and also added a stabilizer link, which made for an improvement overall. Thanks for watching.

@tomduncan1970 9 лет назад

Excellent video!

@jeffrasmussen7462 2 года назад

Wouldn't pulling the motor forward tighten the drive belt more, over tight, I would double check that too

@aircamry 7 лет назад

Thank u for sharing mine was really bad the center was blowing out not connected to any rubber smh

@contact4mwy7 7 лет назад

I'm glad it helped you out. Thanks.

@Claudebonegt 8 лет назад

Good info Mark. thanks

@TonyKei 4 года назад

What is the tightening torque of the motor mount central bolt?

@contact4mwy7 4 года назад

I don't have a torque spec for the center bolt on the front motor mount. Just know that it should be just a bit snug, and use a generous amount of thread locker on it so the nut doesn't come off. The tighter you snug that bolt, the more vibration you're going to feel through the bike frame. I over tightened mine and that's what it did. I then took the nut off and gave it thread locker and put it back on just until I felt a little resistance against the nut. Vibration was noticably less after that. It needs to have some wiggle jiggle room. Lol.

@TonyKei 4 года назад

@@contact4mwy7 Ok! Thank you!

@westsgarage5969 5 лет назад

:O That didn't look like fun. Great video man. Thank you

@contact4mwy7 5 лет назад

A little oily, but had to be done. Thanks for the comment!

@aircamry 7 лет назад

Have a question i used the same mount as u and I noticed when finished torque the main bolt the mount and the lip of mount has a gap and not sitting on mount flush is this correct?

@contact4mwy7 7 лет назад

The gap that appeared in my video was in the slot of the center motor mount hole and an indication of the motor sliding forward a bit from the tension of the straps. It is not a necessary gap. I found that using Loctite on the nut of the center bolt and only tightening it until there was no free play of the bolt up and down that the vibrations/pulses of the motor were a bit more tame. Torquing the bolt tight seemed to shake the bike more.

@aircamry 7 лет назад

Thanks mark and thank u for the videos

@contact4mwy7 7 лет назад

I hope it helps. Let me know if you had to change anything around.

@aircamry 7 лет назад

Mark on mine i notice the engine bracket sits on the center where the bolt goes through on mine it dont go all the way down.on yours how u set the motor down looks like its totally flush without a gap , underneath the bracket to rubber mount on mine when i lower my engine it has a gap but it does sit on the piece of rubber in the middle where the bolt comes out from it doesn't look right on mine, center bolt goes through like a charm and everything is tight

@contact4mwy7 7 лет назад

Just the weight of the engine brings the metal mount down onto the rubber bushing. If yours does not look that way, are you sure you didn't put the rubber bushing in upside down? I'm having a hard time picturing exactly what you are talking about. Lets say the top metal mount bracket is A, the rubber bushing mount is B, and the bottom metal cross member is C. Which two are you seeing the gap between?

@hddm3 5 лет назад

Great great great video man! Thanks so much. Keep them coming man. We could watch you work on anything. Love it

@peteosinga8845 5 месяцев назад

What about the upper motor mount no adjustment?

@contact4mwy7 5 месяцев назад

There are adjustments for those, and I have shown them in another video about bike alignment.

@peteosinga8845 5 месяцев назад

@@contact4mwy7 thanks

@semperoccultus1969 4 года назад

I just came across your video because it looks like I'll be replacing my front motor mount very soon. My engine really moves back and forth during idle and I've already had my Y-pipe header welded from three large exhaust cracks caused by the motor's movement. Anyway, how has the aftermarket mount treated you since 2015 when you posted this video? I have an external oil cooler mounted right there, so it looks like I'll be trying to move that aside in order to replace the engine mount.

@contact4mwy7 4 года назад

It was just what mine needed to keep the motor from vibrating around so much. Use threadlocker on the nut and bolt and just barely snug them together on to the new engine mount so that the mount can do what it's supposed to do. If you tighten the nut and bolt too much it will send the vibrations into the frame of the bike. Good luck!

@semperoccultus1969 4 года назад

@@contact4mwy7 Thanks for the tip! Every little thing helps. I just put over $3k into the bike's motor stage 2, tuner and dyno.

@darrencoulis7194 4 года назад

What are the torque specs

@contact4mwy7 4 года назад

If I didn't mention them I didn't use them. I used blue thread locker on all bolts and tightened the mounting bolts as tight as I felt comfortable. The large center bolt was purposely left on the loose side to allow the rubber to absorb the pulses of the motor better, there is a noticable improvement in less vibrations felt with it just barely tight enough to touch yet the thread locker kept the nut from coming off. I hope this helps.

@EdgarHernandez-ut5jf 8 лет назад

what was the name of the site you found the urethane engine mounts?

@contact4mwy7 8 лет назад

I bought it through Ebay. Type this into the search bar, and then make sure you have found one that matches your bike's model and year. "Harley FXR FXRS FXRT FLT FLHT Drag Specialties Front ISO Mount Motor Mount NEW"

@heyscuba 5 лет назад

curious,.. why are you working in a puddle of oil,...???? do you have a towel and 2 seconds to give that a wipe before the video,..???

@contact4mwy7 5 лет назад

That puddle is from spraying down the area to clean the oil from the parts. I've worked in worse conditions in a dirt driveway with snow and ice, so was ok with it and cleaned it up after everything was done. My apologies if you are offended by these conditions.

@jimscycleandautotn8508 5 лет назад

You need to lower that bell brother.

@contact4mwy7 5 лет назад

Are you referring to the fire hydrant spirit bell?

@jimscycleandautotn8508 5 лет назад

Yessir. Industrial zip ties, want em low as they can go on the frame under the scoot. 👍

@lullguy6055 6 лет назад

Is it me or does it sound like that thing needs some oil

@contact4mwy7 6 лет назад

Kyle Crotty some of that is exhaust sound, but the EVOs valve train is happy when it makes those clacking sounds. They have hydraulic tappet lifters that never need adjusting. This was a very strong running bike for many miles for me until I traded it.