If your a fan of Vasily, you're expecting delays in everything. The man can't stop till its perfect. Great work man, who knew it could look so bad ass.
Really cool build dude ! I wanted you give you some advice before you have any issues with the hayabusa engine well transmission in this case .. you should definitely upgrade the output shaft and or build a “third bearing support “ .. not sure if your using a gen 1 or gen 2 engine but the gen 2 shaft is stronger that the weak Gen 1 shaft but requires the sprocket to be “shimmed” or spaced out appropriately . If you haven’t already , get yourself a set of ape hd clutch springs and you must use a slave cylinder brace or it will crack the sprocket cover . Additionally there’s all sorts of cool stuff you can do with by flashing the ecu including but not limited to , removing all restrictions including top speed limiter , full control over the fuel maps and ignition maps , 2 step, you add a map switch for nitrous or race gas , air shifting can be set up thru the ecu as well and for 2008+ (gen2) you can even do progressive nitrous , boost fueling , slew rate traction control plus more .. I have all the hardware and software to tune them as I drag race one myself and I’ve built more Hayabusa’s from stock to 600+ hp than I can count .. if you’d like me to flash your ecu get in touch with me on Facebook at Christopher Angell , I’d also be more than happy to give you any advice or answer any questions you have regarding the platform.. another a piece of cheap insurance would be a manual cam chain tensioner, you can also swap the exhaust cam out for a stock intake cam with a set of ape adjustable cam gears which is a very common mod for more power . The gen 1’s stock engine dyno’s around 165 to the tire on an accurate dyno with an full exhaust / air filter and other bolt on mods, if you do the dual intake cams , mill the head a lil bit and do some mild porting with good tune I’ve squeezed 185+ on a dynojet 250i .. I believe you mentioned possibly turbocharging it in the future and if that’s case you definitely want to stick to a 2008+ ecu/wiring harness (its swappable just involved ) for the boost fueling oh and did I mention boost by gear boost control ? Lmao.. otherwise your stuck using a powercommander to piggy back the fuel injection and do boost fueling and or using an fmu both of which are old school and powercommanders are notorious for failing completely with no warning or explanation why . The gen 2 ecu works great up to 450hp .. I could go on and on lol 😂 just hit me up if you need anything or have any questions. High performance engine building and tuning is my specialty ! -Christopher Angell @CAPerformance_motorsports .. good luck with the build
I love watching suspension being designed and built, so in future builds I'd love to see the troubleshooting and also learning things like you explained about short upper a-arms.
SUPERB job bro,it looks proper,trouble shooting is part of the build and very interesting and valuable for anyone wanting to build something similar,saving a lot if time and doe ,haha its going to be sick ,you might need to raise the rear a smidge for wheel clearance when over bumps and stuff ,its solid tho,😊👌
Vasiliy. Really like your creativity with your projects/builds. You’re quite talented. Keep doing what you’re doing and I’ll keep on tuning in. Thanks man!
Great building skill. It's coming nicely, but I'do considering starting with other platform, like a Smart. Would be a pocket rocket, and able to use it as a daily.
Dude you rock…… outstanding job…. You should paint your custom suspension and bright color so it can show off that super suspension…..please think about it…
I like this project, for what it is worth, I am of the opinion your right on track to creating a decent functioning buggy, thumbs-up from the peanut gallery here.
I literally had the moment of checking back on a RU-vidr I havent watched in a while and WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON with seeing this video show up on my feed. Sheerly ridiculous in every way, and I love it. Keep it up!
If you want to straight line it, you want the rear to drop, and front to rise, because you transfer the weight to the rear wheels giving you the best traction to prevent wheel spin. So you need adjustable shocks both ends of the vehicle. Suspension is the key to making it safe as well as fast, but it's hard to build one where it is effective on both straight line racing, verses road carving beast
I know you wanna keep the aluminum frame, but at some point, it just makes more sense to swap out those two bars with steel. Especially when you just driving this beast like a sports car. Going into a driveway will probably twist the frame. Also those headlights look like googly eyes. :) Keep up the great work and amazing content.
@@Skwisgar2322 yes, true but if you see how much steel he's already using underneath just basically bolted together, then it just makes more sense to weld steel to steel, especially those strut mounts. having worked with aluminum, sheets its quick to fail with force compared to steel. plus aluminum tends to snap rather than bend so the failure is way more exciting.
Still think you're gunan want to have Reverse, but I'm sure you'll get back to that! Hahahah Keep kickin ass Vasily!beena fan of your stuff from almost the start!
you gotta race rich rebuilds hayabusa when both ready be epic 👍ps would you extend the side panels and roof so the rear of the cab fits over the back end
It would be cool if you could add metal in front of the back wheels to move the rear wheel well back and add the slanted back on to make it look like it did, then you almost wouldnt notice the extended wheelbase! Thats some bodywork and metalwork though and probly a pain. Also those rear shocks are pitiful
