I have a maytag gas dryer the flame comes on for about 10-15 seconds and shuts off. I replaced coils, igniter, flame control tested all the sensor digital multimeter high limit thermal fuse etc. still flame still shuts off.
I replaced literally all the internal parts of my dryer based on other YT videos and after watching this I decided to run the dryer with the exhaust vent unhooked and it stayed hit. Hit the exhaust tube with the leaf blower and voilà, there was more lint inside my wall that I didn’t get when using the wire brush. Works like a champ now and with all new internal parts for $35 😎😎
Was experiencing the same problem. Checked all the necessary parts with the multimeter, everything checked out fine. Change the coils, problems still persisted. Checked ventilation, everything fine. Replaced the high limit thermostat- problem resolved😊
I was ready to order the coils & sensor kit, it was only $25 from amazon. But Ohmed the coils & flame sensor, both were ok. Finally checked the vent tube - it was clogged. Fixed with no $. Thank you.
Thank you so much! We replaced our temperature sensor and read these comments and everyone was correct. I was 1 day away from buying a new dryer. My husband swore he had just cleaned the vent a couple months ago. After he went and checked again, he found a pile of lint clogging the roof vent that was blocking air flow. Thank you so much everyone!
I have a Maytag gas dryer with the same exact problem. The flame would turn off at 15 seconds. I checked all sensors, igniter. I replaced coils and same problem. I got my shop vac and cleaned up the inside and opened up the rear access and cleaned all that out including the exhaust. I put the everything back together and tried it, that did the trick. Note: On mine, if I didn't have any clothes in it the sensors will kick on about 40 seconds in "cool down" mode and turn off the flame. So I put in a load of clothes and it works normal. THANKS to all here! I hope my comment can help someone out there...
FAITK...same issue for me. I checked the duct leading outside and it wasn't bad. I did notice while running machine with external duct off that little air was coming out. I pull back panel and internal duct with blower fan shroud off. Took a good look inside and found compacted lint. The lint was way thicker than fiber glass insulation thats how packed it was. Once I pulled and vacuumed...all was good in the world. Flame stays lit. It must not have sensed up draft before due to the clog and was shutting down.
Make sure you reinstall the front panel and the door. Might surprise you. Everything worked for me after I installed the front panel and the door. I have a 2004 Maytag Neptune MDG6800AAW. (16 yrs old).
I hope this comment finds someone who needs the help. If your burner turns on and shut off and everything has been tested. Remove the cover inside the dryer drum that has the holes where heat enters the drum. They can clog up with lint like mines did and it caused the burner to turn on and off constantly. I cleaned mines and now it's back to drying clothes.
My dryer was doing the exact same thing I replaced the ignitor because it was cracked and cleaned the flame sensor pulled the unit away from the wall to disconnect the vent checking for blockage with the front open it did the same thing I closed it all up and it worked the way it is supposed to reconnected it all is good
Exact problem. Spent $65 on parts only to find it was a small amount of lint I missed in the wall tube which I suspect affected the air flow making the flame burn directly on the high limit thermometer. If I laid the high limit thermometer off to the side the burner would stay on, screw it back in place, gas went off in 8 secs.
The igniter came on but there was no gas flow. I checked the gas valve solenoids with an ohm meter and one of the coils was bad. I ordered two new coils (@$8.00) and replaced them. With the panel removed the flame would come on and then go out after a short period. I deduced that there was a heat transfer issue and reassembled the panels I also cleaned the lint out of the outside vent so there was an unrestricted air flow. Once the dryer was reassembled the burner had a proper air flow to transfer the heat and it stayed lit. Without the proper air flow through the burner assembly it would become too hot and trip the thermal overload switch. Live and learn. david
I had the exact same problem. Before you go replacing parts make sure the vent duct to the outside is clean and clear. I was asked by son to see if I could look at his dryer that was raking to long to dry clothes. He had told me that the had cleaned the duct by sticking a vacuum inside the duct ( it exhaust thru the roof). I checked the dryer operation and found the gas flame would turn on for 5 seconds and then repeat every 60seconds. I replaced the solenoids ($10) - no success. I then hooked up a jumper to the cycling thermostat and found that the gas flame would stay on - so I figured I had a bad thermostat. Replace thermostat ($45) - no success. I then proceeded to reinspect the vent duct that my son say he had vacuumed. I did this by using a leaf blower and found there was to much back pressure. As the duct vent goes up to the roof about 15 ft , I got one of those vent dryer cleaning brushes from Amazon that you use wit a drill. It took me quite a while to clear the lint clog but eventually I got my leaf blower to blow freely. I the opened up the dryer to also vacuum up a lot of lint buildup. The gas dryer then worked with gas flame coming on for about 25 seconds turning off for about 60 seconds and repeating So my lesson learned is that if gas flames stays on for a short time, the first thing to do is disconnect the vent duct from the dryer and if it works then you know your vent duct is clogged. After you clear it ( I used a leaf blower to check) then you would follow up and clean inside dryer. If things don’t improve then you can start looking for defective parts.
Thanks, this was my root cause as well. The service technician replaced 3 parts in my gas dryer and it still didn't work. After clearing out the duct, issue was solved.
@@dougtai9300 Doug the flame is supposed to go out but not immediately. This is controlled by the cycling thermostat. So by acknowledging that your igniter comes on we know that the thermal fuse and high limit thermostat and cycling thermostat are good which are controlled by the flame sensor. As the igniter is lit, the flame sensor will sense the heat and will turn off the igniter and open up the gas valve. The gas flame will ignite from the residual heat of the igniter. With the gas flame lit, it can go out if 1) the flame thermal fuse cuts out the control voltage. This doesn’t auto reset and needs to be replaced. In your case it’s good because you can see the gas flame cycle. 3) the high limit thermostat cuts out the control voltage. This is set higher than the cycling thermostat. It could be that the high limit thermostat is defective if it reaches a cutoff temperature that is lower than the cycling thermostat cutout. You could try and bypass it (jumper across it) and verify proper operation of the cycling thermostat. 3) the cycling thermostat could be defective however as noted in my comment you need to disconnect the vent from the dryer. If you get the flame to stay on longer with vent disconnected this means there some obstruction into the vent duct that cause a back pressure that cause the flame to contact the metal ducting and prematurely trigger the cycling thermostat. Before proceeding check out this video on how gas dryer controls work. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mcipN8bvpa0.html
I have the exact same problem but with a Samsung dryer. I have replaced all the sensors, Air duct, igniter, gas valves n still no luck. Any suggestions
Just had this issue looked at by a Pro as I checked all the sensors and relays but my issue was the dryer blower motor was broken . it's locked on the front lower left side on the maytag dependable care gas dryer .
Having the same issue. The flame is unstable and shuts off itself in about 20 seconds even after I clean the vent hose. Test the related parts with Multimeter and the parts are all good. I then disconnect the hose to the wall. Test again, the problem is solved. The flame stay lit nicely. My dryer vent is inside the wall going up the roof. So, I have found the cause of the problem. The vent inside the wall is clogged. After I clean the vent and connect the dryer hose again, the dryer is working fine.
I have the same issue on LG dryer, do this first, remove the dryer hole at the dryer end, run the dryer again, my case flame works fine, I reconnect to dryer hole at the machine, and I disconnect dryer hole at the wall, do some clean up it works as normal. So dryer hole has some backpressure from dirty and the flame shut off. This thread helps me to think about the problem... Thank you,
I'm in the same rabbit hole. Was having to replace my valve coils every 18 months or so to keep my old Maytag running. Recently hit a snag though. dryer wasn't drying...Replaced the coils....flame comes on at first start up for 20seconds then cuts off. ....subsequent cycles the gas only comes on for 5 seconds. This is with the front cover entirely off {door closed to keep switch activated. replaced coils and that didn't fix it. Checked the vent...clear. thoroughly cleaned everything..again. All these symptoms appear to support a faulty flame sensor. The only different symptom this time is there is a persistent buzzing prior to the gas igniting that I didn't notice in the past. Like the coil is struggling to open the gas valve. This would have nothing to do with a bad flame sensor. maybe I have the rare case of a faulty gas valve assembly?
Just had the exact same problems and fixed all the same things! We were watching this way as well. As others stated, once we put the door back on, the dryer works perfectly!
MOST ALL GAS APPLIANCES HAVE A FLAME SENSOR you should for + it looked like you have a couple of clicks on or or off on the flame tube I would check them I am not sure what t tell you gas valve is working or it would not light something is telling it to shut down ?? let me know what you find out
I have the exact same dryer and the exact same problem. In the past it was a coil set every 18 months or so. Recently the Igniter went out. Replaced that, and swapped out the coils for good measure, but clothes just weren't drying on a cycle. Going to remove the unit from the wall and look for an obstruction. One of the posters below indicated that the tiny bit of back flow would hit the high temp limit sensor (located on top of the tube opposite the flame sensor. That will be my first test tomorrow morning! I'll check back with you all. I have a 1990's maytag LDG7304AAE. I hope this helps someone!
My gas Whirlpool dryer is doing something similar. I replaced both gas coils + the flame sensor + the heating element. No change in the dryer's behavior. I can see the flame come on for about 15 seconds, then it goes out. I have my dryer hosed completely removed and can feel plenty of air blowing out of the hole. Anyone have an idea what I've overlooked?
Having the same issue. Igniter lights and gas is introduced into tube and flame stays on for 35 secs then goes off. Any help please? It’s a Maytag Atlantis dryer
Mine is doing same thing, check your vent. If it is clogged wont work or if run is too long wont work. Detach vent from back see if it works. If it does its your exhaust. Hope this helps
I've been troubleshooting and repairing my old Sears Kenmore gas dryer for almost 25 years now and I found that the burner valve solenoid coils can become weak over time. When this occurs there is not enough magnetism generated to hold the valve open and it will shut off. Just recently I had the flame ignite, burn for about a half minute, then shut off. I suspected the solenoid coils again; however, I had just replaced these only about five years ago. Turns out that the exhaust vent was completely blocked at the louvers outside the house. I removed the wad from the vent and now my dryer is back in service. Thank God I found this blockage and thanks to the manufacturer designed this machine to have temperature sensors in the dryers internal exhaust duct to monitor the temperature and shut down the machine if they sense a temperature above normal. We typically clean the lint screen; however, I had recently threw a bunch of burlap into the dryer after having washed it and I never experienced more of a mess than what this material made. I cleaned the lint screen and the next time I ran the dryer with normal fabrics in it is when the trouble began. A word of advise: don't run burlap in your machines. If you have the flame got out after a a short time, first check your vent for clogs as I had. You'll save a lot of time and money if that is the root of the problem.
Imagine that the ONLY thing that was wrong was My "cycling T-stat". Replaced w/no improvement. Rechecked for 7 Ohm (small terminals) @ violet wires. Still good--UNMOUNTED that sensor from the cabinet-- flame stays on. Likely the wrong rating or "new defective". This may be too unique 2 help anyone else, but it happened. Unnecessarily replaced coils too @ the same time as they can't be checked reliably due to heat warpage.
Your burn is not right ,orange yellow airy flame .gas pressure is off.your flame sensor can't even detect this flame because it's no where near the sensor,Should be blue flame with a stronger jet,
That's certainly on the right track. Mine, the flames just like that and does the exact same thing as spakyd82. High limit thermometer in right in the flames. Can't be right. Gas never would stay on for long like that. I temporarily moved the high limit thermometer out of the flame and gas stays on. Can't think of anything else but lint I missed or possibly the regulator? The fuse, coils, thermistor, ignitor and high limit thermometer have been replaced. Ended up being a small amount of lint affecting the air flow.
geze2004, thank you for the advice, problem solved. After clean all the dirt out and close the door then the flame would be sucked toward the vent and not touching the top of tube which will trigger the radiant sensor to shut off prematurely. I am glad that I didn’t need to spend unnecessary money to buy parts.
@@normroe62 Same here. I fixed the issue with a new part but couldn't figure out why the flame wouldn't stay lit until I saw this thread. I fully assembled the dryer and it now works fine.
I know this is an old video. Your flame should be blue, yours is way to orange. Also the door of the dryer needs to be on while you troubleshoot,otherwise it will overheat. Hope this helps someone.
That flame doesn't look right.. Its orange and looked like it was burning sloppy.. Your dryer works by drawing in that flame's heat into the drum then it passes through and is sucked up and out the exhaust flu. This has to be clean and free of blockage. Over time lint can clog the flu so check to be sure there isn't any blockage and be sure it's completely clean.. I'm betting on a clogged flu.. See here's what could be happening.. If the burner can't draw air into the drum and be drawn out the flu... the heat from the flame builds up in the combustion tube and then overheats the chamber.. You already know there is a sensor that protects this.. So this will cause it to trip out on safety.. There could also be a clog of dirt in the burner assembly ... That fire shout be blue and be sucked in.. Yours is orange and seemed to be just fluttering all about..
