Dryer Won’t Heat? Igniter Testing - Troubleshooting & Repair

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Dryer won’t heat? This video demonstrates how to test an igniter on a gas dryer. The igniter is a commonly replaced part for a dryer not heating.
Other commonly replaced parts for a dryer not heating are:
Thermal fuse
Gas solenoid valve
Dryer igniter
High limit thermostat
Cycling thermostat
Main control board
Timer
Click here to purchase a replacement dryer igniter:
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Click here to purchase the multimeter used in this part testing video:
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How to disassemble your dryer:
• Whirlpool/Kenmore Drye...
For more DIY videos including part replacement and help finding your model visit the repair help section of our website:
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All of the information provided in this part testing video is applicable to the following brands: Amana, Frigidaire, GE, Kenmore, LG, Maytag, Roper, Samsung and Whirlpool.
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Опубликовано:

25 янв 2011

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Комментарии : 38

@stocksrock 7 лет назад

had no heat in kenmore gas dryer.replaced solenoids{which wasnt the problem} and the igniter which was bad.Had heat for two weeks now no heat. What do you think?

@Nmiguy 11 месяцев назад

Great ez explain video. Thank you.

@w0lf1969 7 месяцев назад

Ya'll have helped me so many times with a lot of things, and I just realized I haven't subscribed to your channel. Now i have. Thanks for all your videos 👍

@repairclinic 6 месяцев назад

You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!

@wasung4359 7 лет назад

Can i use Igniter in 220v equipment ?

@blindbrailleable 11 лет назад

I figured it out, different metals have different conductivity, so less conductive metals will have more resistance. Ty for the video.

@johnw8578 5 месяцев назад

I have a Kenmore gas dryer from the late 60s that works great but is starting to take two or more tries to get the heat going. Does that mean the igniter is going bad or could it be something else? It was doing this about 5 years ago and I cleaned everything up and it worked great after that-- cleaning this time hasn't helped.

@vargascuatro08 Год назад

Does the igniter really have to be removed to tested it, or just by disconecting the power supply should be enough?

@repairclinic 11 лет назад

The igniter is a heater not a switch so it has resistance. If an igniter shows a very low ohm reading it is shorted and will need to be replaced.

@freejuggling5678 Год назад

What reading is very low?

@lanunsatria6734 4 года назад

Ok... thanks

@n1kkri Год назад

My dryer starts but the igniter does not light. I replaced the igniter but no luck. Imeasured the resistance of the igniter and it was 60 ohms so its good. I measured only 56 volts across the 2 pieces of metal that hold the igniter in place. I have in the past measured 120 volts. Any tips?

@n1kkri Год назад

I discovered the problem. The Flame sensor was open. I jumped it and now I get my 120v at the igniter.

@devinnepresley5832 10 лет назад

you are truly awesome !!!

@repairclinic 10 лет назад

Devinne Presley Thanks!

@charreed8727 3 года назад

What if I start my dryer and all is fine, heats up.. but after that it will no longer re-light after that?

@alexthehandyman3494 2 года назад

HELLO It could be gas valve coils. When gas valve coils are weak, they work a few cycles then they stop working. You have to watch the whole 45 minutes for this. Or come back at the 25-30 min. Very easy to replace and they are only 12$ Of course this is only one thing that could be wrong. there are other reasons why.

@Cjayshep143 10 лет назад

I changed the internal bias thermostat, dryer fired up but after a few minutes it shut down. the igniter gets red but shuts down before it lights. Any suggestions?

@repairclinic 10 лет назад

CJay Shepherd You most likely have bad coils on the gas valve. If the igniter glows for a few seconds cuts out with no flame then does it again after a couple of minutes it is probably the coils. Also check the vent.

@Cjayshep143 10 лет назад

***** Thank you Repair Clinic, good stuff. I was able to order the part, install the part and get "Addaboys" from the wife for fixing her dryer and saving money.

@Ockhamcool 9 лет назад

Maytag / Whirlpool p/n 4391996 ignitor (was304970 Maytag) was measured at 61 ohms on my well calibrated Hewlitt Packard DVM. Used but functional ignitor on the same meter read 65 ohms. This is a 2% accuracy meter.

@repairclinic 9 лет назад

K Lynch As long as the reading is between 50 & 400 Ohms of resistance the igniters should be fine. The resistance can differ slightly between igniters due to temperature and other factors. The main thing is that the igniters are not open, no continuity at all.

@blindbrailleable 11 лет назад

Why on all the continuity tests is a reading of .09 good but for some magical reason its not for the igniter?

@kennikuhlmann-clark9860 Год назад

The igniter needs to have a level of resistance in order to prevent overcurrent, or it simply shorting.... You want the igniter itself to have a resistance which allows it to glow but not short out the circuit..... The other items are effectively switches; the igniter is not a switch.

@wendynspire7220 8 лет назад

WILL A VOLTAGE TESTER WORK ON TESTING A DRYER CONTINUITY EVEN IF ITS ANTIQUE AND ONLY GOES FROM 120-600

@repairclinic 8 лет назад

+WeNdY N'Spire When testing the igniter we simply using the 1.5V in the small DC battery and measuring the components resistance. It is hard for us to comment on the device you have.

@wendynspire7220 8 лет назад

+RepairClinic.com thanks! It's fixed! :)

@joecox9958 2 года назад

I compared two dryers (no gas), both ignitor light up to red, then click, the difference is one of them becomes dim much quick than the other so I thought it might be a problem. can any one comment on?

@kennikuhlmann-clark9860 Год назад

I'm wondering about this too.... It seems to me that there possibly exists a gray area, where the igniter glows, but not enough or cools off too quickly to ignite gas mixture, or somehow a physical defect or problem with the igniter is preventing ignition... No mention of what the symptoms would be if the resistance is too high -- but almost certainly it would not get hot enough, since current is inversely proportional to resistance... Question is: would it glow to any extent at all and not be able to ignite mixture?.... A possibly misleading statement in the video says that if the igniter measures between 50 and 400 Ohms, it has continuity. Actually it could read higher than 400 Ohms and still have 'continuity' -- it just might be that it is too high or a resistance(?).