Help Me SOLVE this Misfire! 

2 years ago I had the same problem with my 09 Fz6, when cold it would start fine but once it warmed a little one cylinder would drop out intermittently, I also had a strong smell of fuel from the exhaust when it was misfiring. worked my way through new coils, caps, new TPI, checked every vacuum hose, fuel pipe, fuel pressure etc, eventually I opened every single electrical connection on the bike, I found a few corroded connections but the main problem I found was the large ECU block connector had 4 or 5 corroded connectors and the mating pins on the ECU were equally corroded. Once I cleaned those pins up the bike ran sweet. Took me a long time to find the problem, many hours as the bike wasn't flashing any fault codes. I'm a mechanic btw and it almost beat me. Hope this helps.

Honestly I have no idea. You seem to know a lot more then I. That thing with the hair dryer was genius. Also this video happened to be perfect 5am RU-vid content thank you

If it were as fuel problem it would be there at all RPMs. You need to check the battery voltage when the problem is present at low RPMs when the charging circuit (alternator equivalent) is at low output. It may be the battery voltage under this load is 11 V or even less. With low batt voltage it will not generate the required high voltage at the coil secondary to create the sparks. If this is the problem there could be a current overload even outside the ignition system that's dropping the batt voltage to unacceptable levels and, depending on the overload magnitude, could go away at higher RPMs when the charging circuit has more oomph.

I have an 05 FZ6 with just over 70k miles, almost all mine. Over the years I have found that the connection between the coil wire and the plug cap to be problematic. Over the years I have had to trim the wires and reconnect the caps multiple time. I see that connection as the weakest part of the otherwise bulletproof FZ6 engine. I never had a miss as bad as yours, but clearly had misfires and rough running issues. Best to gather as much info as possible. Get the IR thermometer and see if you can find the header pipe or pipes that are coolest. If you find 1, swap the 2 spark plug leads from that coil to see if the problem moves. Don't recall if you installed the new coils, but I am guessing you did before planning to check the fuel system. I got so disgusted with the ware to cap connections, I ended up doing a coil-on-plug mod with FZ-07 coils and never looked back.... Good luck.

I had the same issue and injector cleaner helped clean up the stumble my bike was having a idle. I hope you figure it out.

When you did the empty tank test, the risk is over heating the fuel pump. The gas helps keep the pump cool.. It could possibly be the issue. Go to the forums. Very helpful.

Your missfire is the fuel pressure regulator, when it's clogged or not working good the bike on low rpms will fail like a faulty coil but un high rpms works fine.

Fuel pump filter or fuel pump and clean your injectors like you said

When did you last do a valve clearance check. Does the bike get hot quickly? These are mysterious bikes I know cos I have one that ive done 60000 miles on and 99 percent of the work done to it ive done. It may be worth swapping the ignition coils. I will say this though, the charging systems on these bikes aint the best and something as simple as a faulty regulator rectifier can do these things. Also if your stator is burned then it will work but misfires are common too due to not being 3arthed properly. You probably already know this and have done the checks but its worth saying. Good luck bruv

I just fix my problem by tighting spark plugs when you pass 400 km with new spark plugs just check them if they come loose.. Hope this help you

I had same problem on FZ1 I changed all ignition coils and it work. Maybe the same for yours

I have the same prob ,did u find what it is?

Must say my experience owning and doint 40k miles on my fz6 s2 in all conditions then ...... 1. Don't use heated grips as our poor electrical system from stator to RR cannot cope 2. Coils cause most mossfire issues 3. ECU pins do corrode and short. 4. TPS fault is overated.

Check tps sensor.

So you can pull the boots right of those wires? How are they connected?

Simple I know, but have you already ruled out contaminated fuel? I didn't hear you mention fuel itself in your summary. I had an issue with rain water getting into my tank through a rusted overflow tube inside the tank. The bike still ran, it just had a poor idle until the water burned off after each rain. Is your poor idle correlated with rainy weather? It also meant if I topped the bike up, it'd drip petrol. I would guess the overflow tube is rust prone, as it's steel and rain flows through it from around the fuel cap (mistakenly or not) You/others can test this by siphoning out half a litre or less of fuel from the very bottom of the tank and then letting it sit in a transparent plastic bottle. See if there's any layering in the bottom of the bottle after an hour/overnight. You might also be able to use fuel stabilizer to soak the water up, but I guess that depends on water volume - I've never used it. If anyone does have this problem, the cheapest solution (for me) is a tankbag over the fuelcap to block the rain.

I have an almost similar problem. Cold start, bike miss 1 cylinder at low RPM, then slowly loose idling speed until it cut out. I can keep engine going by adding throttle though, it smooth out at higher RPM, but it will continue missing/dying at traffic lights etc, fie entire trip until I reach destination 30 mins later. BUT, if I let it sit a few minutes (ignition off) after the first cut out during initial start, & THEN start few minutes later, it idle steady, no miss, all is well (until tomorrow morning)...

Have you got an air leak or crack or a folded over seam in any of the rubberised intake tunnels or a vacuum pipe?....

Have you synchronized throttle bodies lately? Also you can try injector cleaning additive for fuel just to see if there is any difference.

What was the other problem

Did you solve the problem i have the same on yamaha R1 but at 8500 rpm on high gear and rugh idle.. And the sane as you i replace the spark plugs, 1000 km was doing great after that the problem is here, what to do?

No problem.... Only because the exterior temperature. Whait until the engie is at the god temperatue

I guess you could pour some injector cleaner into the fuel tank and see if that cleans anything up. The Techron stuff seems to work the best in my experience.

I have the same bike and the same problem, it hardly impresses me, but I want to fix it. Did you understand what it is from, did you fix it, if you can get more information. I wish you Merry Christmas!

Clean the injectors. Try additive first. It works for me.

Does your bike shows error code 33 or 33? Mine does show at idle but when i rev it its gone but when a closed the throttle at idle its back again

Did you ever solve this, Calvin?

What was the end result on this issue, Calvin?

1st. VALVE CLERANCE CHECK AND ADYUST 2nd. SYNCHRONIZING THE THROTTLE BODIES AND IDLE SPEED Service manual : Prior to synchronizing the throttle bodies, the valve clearance and the engine idling speed should be properly adjusted and the ignition timing should be checked.

I have same issue with my bike..... take a temp gun and see which cylinders are running cold compared to the others.... as the bike is warming up, take the temps on header pipes and that might help narrow down which cylinders are miss firing..... I'm getting ready to take the injectors out of mine and clean them, but if your going to do that then I will waist and see what your results are............