Good video, except for three important issues---First, for product defect / liability lawsuits, the plaintiffs must prove that the defect was either known or foreseeable by the manufacturer and often without regard to the warranty. So, the typical 3yr / 36,000 powertrain warranty is not an issue. Second, the "degenerative issue" is largely not an issue. The question would effectively be: whether a reasonable person would be able to discern whether temporary noise coming from the engine area on a fairly new vehicle would go to a mechanic to have it checked out. A reasonable person is not an experienced mechanic. Each side (Stellantis and plaintiffs) would frame the issue in the most favorable way to them. Third, if the parties reach a settlement, the plaintiffs would not accept replacement parts of the same quality because that would be asinine and Stellantis would probably never agree to a cash-back rebate or a buy-back program because such programs hurt brand value. The only real answer is for Stellantis to source better parts and replace the old, defective parts with the better parts. As far as a current example, look at the Hyundai / Kia engine lawsuit, where Hyundai / Kia has agreed to replace almost half a million engines due to a risk of fire with many of them well beyond the warranty period, and with some models being as old as 2009. Sound like a lawyer? I am.
I've read about vehicles as far back as 2014 doing this! So with that being said, in 2014 they called for 5W20 and now they're calling for 0W-20 in the same motor! So why the difference in oil weight if you know you're having parts failures due to lack of lubrication? I read it was because the lower the thickness of the oil The better gas mileage the vehicles would get and that means less money Chrysler pays to the EPA! So this has been an existing problem for 10 years and Dodge has done nothing to solve the issue! Could that not be brought up in court that it has been an existing problem and they just haven't done anything to fix it?
I used to be a Chrysler tech also and agree with most everything you share. There is one thing from personal experience that I would like to share. I’ve changed a few failed Hemi cam and lifters for customers. Of course I would not be familiar with the “normal” sounds of any of those engines before the failure. Before and after sounds if you will. Although, one of the shared work trucks at my current job had this problem at 117k. I drove this truck daily in all seasons and was very familiar with how it sounded. It was a very quiet and smooth. Even when started cold. It started ticking one day and I knew exactly what was going on. The other guys that drove it tried dumping Lucas in it of course. Lol. Then kept driving it for a week or so. The company owner obviously knew where I worked before. So he asked if I’d fix it. I agreed. Found failed lifter on cyl.5. When I had the oil pan off I could clearly tell that the metal shavings from the cam was dripping on the crank and getting flung up into cyl 5. You could clearly tell the gray metal running down the block under that cyl. I could see no damage to the cylinder wall. Top or bottom. No metal in the cam phaser screen. Carried on with the repair. The tick was gone and it ran great. However, when started cold it definitely now had piston slap or knock. Not crazy bad, but I definitely noticed it. Not sure anyone else did. As they wouldn’t care anyway. It gradually faded away as it warmed. It made me wonder if any of the previous jobs I did had the same new piston slap. My belief is that the gray metal shavings damaged the skirt on that piston. Or built up in the rings changing the way the piston rocked in the bore. Either way it did not have this noise before. So when I heard you say the piston would be the last thing to get damaged, I’m not so sure I can agree on that one. That was four years ago and that engine now has 268k on it. With the same cam and lifters I installed and the same cold piston slap. But it still runs great. However, I have an additional theory on this particular engine. I also think it was possible that the stickiness of the Lucas held the metal shavings up on that cylinder wall longer than it would have with 5w20 washing it down. I know, I know! Longest comment ever!! Lol. Hope you find it interesting though.
Interesting as I have a 2015 Ram 2500 with 110 k that has not had this happen yet and was contemplating adding lucus synthetic oil treatment as a preventative measure, the synthetic is thinner than the conventional Lucas oil treatment , my thinking was it would keep the lift or roller lubricated as now my truck sits a lot and doesn’t get drove, but on weekends because of a company truck, you mentioned the Lucas after the tick started, but what about as a preventative I have also thought about the hellcat oil pump or both what’s your thoughts?
I have a 2015 Ram 5.7. Mine made it to 127k before one of the lifters locked up and ate part of the cam lobe. I bought MDS delete plugs, Hellcat lifters and a Hellcat oil pump. I have the engine completely disassembled and and sending out the block for new cam bearings and a hot tank treatment.
6.1 hemi punched and stroked to a 426 7.0L here. Run wonderful. Recently heard a tick that seemed out of the ordinary. I immediately shut it down, pulled the oil filter and cut it open. Outside of a couple metal specs, all the paper pleats were clean. I'm pulling the drivers side cover and head off this weekend to check for play in the rockers, then lifters looking for wear. I suppose if you catch it quickly, you can save yourself lots of headache.
my cam eat two non mds lifter at 189,000 klm with oil changes at 7000klm! replaced with full engine builder kit and replaced all mds and vvt solenoids ! the truck has 15,000klms since the cam swap and running fine ! i did put heavy magnets on the oil filter for two oil changes, the first filter had some fine metal in held to the can of the filter but the second filter was clear!
Interesting. I appreciate your thoughts. Personally I don't see this lawsuit really going anywhere. The Hemi is overall a great motor and I think that the lifter issue is so much less prominent than it is made out to be on the internet. I love my Hemi in my RAM and I wouldn't trade it for any other truck!
Unfortunately cam/lifter failure just happened to me at 90,000 miles. 2017 Ram 1500 Express. Definitely stressful and put me in a bind monetarily. Great video as always
If you cant afford to replace the engine and transmission of the vehicle it means you're driving a vehicle that's too expensive for you. Get paid better or switch to a cheaper vehicle.
@@Moment2Forever Huh? I don't care what profession your in $10,000-15-000 dollars makes a huge dent in ones pocket. Unless your a millionaire. I am not. I am a plumbing foreman with a wife,4 kids and a mortgage.
I don't see the lawsuit going very far. I have a Ram 2500 with the 5.7 with 185k on it and only tick I have had is the exhaust. Use good oil and proper oil changes and issues will go down. Love the channel, glad I found it recently. I have loved my Ram for 10 years now.
If you were in all the Hemi/ Ram groups that I am apart of you would understand how bad the problem is. With that said, when stroking my 5.7L we found a cam and lifter starting to fail.
An excellent and easily understood review of the lawsuit from a professional and experienced hemi mechanic. Information like this can help us hemi owners better decide what, if any action they need to take with regard this issue. Thank you sir for taking the time and the interest in this important issue enough to place it up here on RU-vid.
Got a 2019 Ram with a 5.7 Hemi. Runs great, bought extended warranty and use it to replaced lifters on both sides at 40k and 89k km. Also changed the exhaust manifolds on both sides warranty of course. All running smooth now.
My 2012 Ram 1500 Hemi 5.7 is in the dealership awaiting parts for the replacement of valves and cam related to this issue. I will be into it for THOUSANDS+++!!!. Thanks, Chrysler!!!
The problem seems to be a design flaw related to the oil pump that enables an accelerated degenerative mechanical issue. Which causes lifter failure and costs several thousands dollars to repair or even motor replacement.
It seems to me that engines in the 60’s and 70’s typically lasted about 100,000 miles. Since then, manufacturers in the automotive industry have developed some engines capable of 300,000 miles. We have gotten used to long life (well over 100,00 mile) engines being somewhat routine, and anything less is no longer okay with owners.
I think the old mopar engines could easily last 200k miles IF they had EFI back then. It's the excess raw fuel of old school carburetors which limited longevity on them.
I have 46K on my 2014 5.7 Ram 1500 no issues other than the broken Exh. studs. Was told it is better overall to use the same manifolds but to have them resurfaced since they have been heat cycled. This is one of the nicest riding and running trucks out there... pulls my 8500 toy hauler with authority even up the steep grades. Just LOVE the truck. I FOR SURE recommend changing the 8 speed tranny fluid at 40k. Mine was coffee color and needed to be changed. I did it on my own but it is tricky to do and it shifts smoother now. I was told my my mechanic that the truck is a solid unit and that ALL the trucks out there have issues. He said he does not see the lifter issues in masses and to not read on the internet too much.. I see so many Ram's on the road hard to see them all failing with certainty. I change my oil every year or 4K miles was using Mobil one with a WIX filter. I was told Amsoil is the best but Penzoil is a close 2nd.
I have a 2014 Ram 1500 with only 70,000 miles and was told I need a new camshaft and to park the truck on yesterday. Highly upset to say the least but it was meant for me to come across your channel so thanks. I will be staying tuned.
Did the issue throw a code? I recently bought a 2014 with only 62,000 miles and I think I hear a ticking sound at start up. No codes and the truck has been running smoothly even after a few hundred miles. It isn’t my daily so I will be following the vids
Excellent video. Thanks for the info. I have a 2019 RAM 1500 with a 5.7 HEMI. At 41K miles it has a pronounced lifter tick and a rough idle. My factory power train warranty expires in seven months. All service has been done by the dealership at milages less than the recommended service intervals. I scheduled an appointment two months ago to have it evaluated by the dealership. The service advisor called me the night before the appointment and asked me to delay the evaluation because the service department was busy. He suggested a date two months away. I signed up for that later appointment and dropped my truck off seven days ago. The service advisor said the repair could take up to a month. I contacted the dealership today to ask if the tech had looked at my truck yet. The service advisor said the tech had not looked at it yet and it could now take up to two months to get my truck back because they were so busy. He suggested that I take my truck to another local dealership. I told him that this is the dealership I bought the truck from. I appreciate that the service departments are very busy. I'm starting to wonder if they just don't want to do the warranty work on my truck and want to delay until the warranty expires. Not sure what options I have. Just want to get the vehicle fixed before the warranty expires. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
One thing to rest easy about: you already have the vehicle at the dealer with the stated concern on it. This predates the expiration of the warranty, thus even if the warranty date expires while the vehicle is there it will be covered. Also to ease your mind, warranty work is reimbursed by the factory to the dealership, so the dealers get paid for the work either way, whether it is warranty or not, so they really don't care which it is. I'd say it just sounds like they are being lazy. I wouldn't allow them to shunt you to another dealer though. Stick by your guns and keep on them until they at least diagnose the issue and order parts. Parts delivery is out of their hands on how long it will take, but they need to at least get the process started by diagnosing it.
I believe the crank is to far from the camshaft, it doesn't get oil at idle. Look at the distance compared to old hemis, its considerable. And that makes sense.
Im dealing with issue now with my 09 ram 1500. Lesson learned. When the truck starts misfiring and you are not a mechanic, just replace the engine. What happened to mine is started off with cylinder 3 misfire. I tried to save money by replacing cam and lifters. After putting it back together, cylinder misfire gone on 3 but multiple misfires appeared out of the blue code P0300. I am now at a loss compared to if just changed the engine.
I have a 2006 Daytona with the 5.7. The car is a high mileage car but oil changes and preventative maintenance has been done on schedule. The car suffered a roller lifter failure and I heard it as soon as it happened. I drove the car about 10 miles to get it home. The car had a extremely light tap, a slight skip, but did not throw any codes. My first action was to change the oil to see if I might have a stuck lifter but the tapping continued after running the car for about 10 minutes. When I tore the engine down I found that the first lifter on the number one cylinder had not only failed but had also turned sideways in the yoke. This caused some grinding on the cam but more pushing of the cam lobe metal outwards. I pulled the oil pan and did not find any metal shavings although I had put fresh oil in the engine after hearing the tapping I did not see any metal shavings in that oil when I drained it. The main bearings also looked good so I sent the heads to a shop and had them cleaned, decked, and had the valve seats welded in along with new springs, guilds, and seals. The cam lobe was heavily damaged but it was due more to the lobe metal being pushed or rolled to the outside by the sideways turned lifter. All cam bearings checked out fine and I couldn’t fined any metal shavings inside the engine as I inspected through the cam opening. The only metal shavings I saw was in the form of a gray paste that had collected on the magnets of the MDS solenoids but was nothing more than what you would expect to see with an engine with high mileage I thoroughly cleaned the intake also. In all I replaced the timing chain, timing gears, the oil pump with a high volume one, the cam with a non MDS 212/222, non MDS lifters, MDS delete plugs, along with Al the previously mentioned head work. I have put over 100 miles on the motor and I will be doing another oil change at 500 miles and a third one at 1000 miles. As for now the motor is running strong and sounding good. Someone told me that I could not have done this with the later 5.7 due to the bearing tolerances being much closer. Is this true? How do you think this engine will hold up?
I think the biggest help to the plaintiffs would be for them to get a few large police, sheriff, or state trooper departments that have had these failures prior to the factory warranty period ending. The reason I think the plaintiffs went with 2014 and newer is that the average miles driven is just over 12,000 per year and this would make the average miles of vehicles in these years 100,000 miles or less. Personally, I think Chrysler will settle this out of court since the Hemi engines are nearing the end of their production and it will more than likely be cheaper to offer an "extended warranty" specifically for the lifters than to go through litigation.
Here's what the 2021 Owner's Manual says regarding a "tick". Note: Hemi engines (5.7L) at times can tick right after startup and then quiet down after approximately 30 seconds. This is normal and will not harm the engine. This characteristic can be caused by short drive cycles. For example, if the vehicle is started then shut off after driving a short distance. Upon restarting, you may experience a ticking sound. Other causes could be if the vehicle is unused for an extended period of time, incorrect oil, extended oil changes or extended idling. If the engine continues to tick or if the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) comes on, see the nearest authorized dealer.
Pre 2009 doesn't have the issue because unless I'm mistaken in 2009 they raised the camshaft up higher in the block which moved it further from the crank which causes it to get less oil splash! I may be wrong
I certainly feel for anyone that has a problem especially after warranty period, but there are so many variables involved, I don't see a high probability of a successful outcome on the lawsuit.
My son's work has many hemi powered 350's, common problem has been camshafts breaking. They are changing to diesel power, still having major problems just different from the hemi. By the way take a good look at the combustion camber, it looks almost identical to the ford 6.2, neither one looks like a hemi head.
I bought a 2014 Challenger SRT8 with a 6.4L engine when the car was new and drove it off the show room floor. I very much like the car, but found that there was a very slight tick to the motor, right when new. I changed the motor oil that was recommended for the car. OW20 was the recommended oil. This oil is far too thin. I switched to 5W40 Full Synthetic as well as I add 5 to 6 ounces of a Lucas ZDDP additive. I use a genuine Mopar filter (Black Filter) and I disabled the MDS and run all 8 cylinders all the time. The car runs fine at this point. The engine tick has gone away. At least for now. One of the problems is that they keep reducing ZDDP levels from motor oil to help the Catalytic Converter last longer, but it is at the expense of the lifter and cam shafts. Additionally, I have seen many worn cam's in Chevy small blocks over the years and its usually caused by lack of ZDDP in the oil. Plate C
Thanks for the info on this. I was wondering if a lawsuit was going to be filed or not. Where it only goes back to 2014 I wonder if they thought they would have a better chance of winning if the cut off line was within a shorter time frame.
Tom I think you're right. I was thinking that they might be worried that casting the net too big would nullify their claims. But I think that's the wrong way to go about it. Based on how everything is worded I really don't think they have a Chrysler tech helping them, feels like there's a lot of slight misinformation in there, and stuff like that can sink their case.
I think they should have gone back to 2009 and say that Chrysler n Knew this was a problem since 2009 and still has not really fixed the problem and continue to sell a defective product that they should have addressed!
My 2021 Ram 2500 6.4 hemi had a long block replaced at 4400 miles. Oil control valve had metal on it. It had the ticking noise, lack of power, and rough idle. After the engine was replaced it still has a rough idle at times. No CEL for misfire. Took the truck back to dealer and had the tech ride with me. He said that the rough idle is not normal. They sent the running data to Chrysler and they said everything is normal. Now the dealer says it's normal. This truck also does not have the power that it should. I can tow 4000 pounds and it's struggling. There are times that it idles smooth and times it feels like a misfire. I have about 10000 miles on the new engine and have not seen any metal on the dipstick. After watching your video unless a new oil cooler there is not one charged on the repair order. My wife has a 2016 Ram 1500 5.7 and it runs great. I am starting to get concerned about my 6.4 having a repeat problem.
They replaced my cam and lifters only at 60k miles after removing the OCV and finding metal shavings, 10k miles after rebuild it started doing it again and they refuse to do anything until it throws engine codes even though the repair was defective! I will never buy another Chrysler product!
First off... Love your channel. So I know it's been awhile since this video, but I'm new to your channel and wanted to note something that I've recently been through which pertains to "The Tick". I own a 2015 Charger SRT 392 and recently had the tick. It got bad quick. Even got the engine light (P305). Sure enough #5 Lifter was bad which took out the cam. (NOT AN MDS CYLINDER). This is common, I've watch a lot of videos, so why am I writing this. Well... I haven't seen any mention of any other fail but the lifter. So... I put a new cam and lifters in, no big deal. But after getting her running again I felt a strange vibration I never felt before. I thought I did something. Found no issues caused by my mechanical skills. So after driving it for about three weeks, something broke. After removal of the engine, I found #6 connecting rod bearing was gone!! (MDS CYLINDER) All I found was a small sliver, the rest was shavings. Also found #5 bearing was spinning and failing. Coincidence? I found it interesting and just wanted to note. Thanks
In my Ram 2022 Limited Manual it Says this. NOTE: Hemi engines (5.7L) at times can tick right after startup and then quiet down after approximately 30 seconds. This is normal and will not harm the engine. This characteristic can be caused by short drive cycles. For example, if the vehicle is started then shut off after driving a short distance. Upon restarting, you may experience a ticking sound. Other causes could be if the vehicle is unused for an extended period of time, incorrect oil, extended oil changes or extended idling. If the engine continues to tick or if the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) comes on, see the nearest authorized dealer.
I always figured if Chrysler could make the roller lifters in the Hemi and the roller rockers in the Pentstar V6 out of poontang, it would solve the problem. I've never seen any wear out though not for trying. But really, as much trouble as most all manufacturers have with timing chains and VVT actuators going out in the 150ish give or take a few thousand miles, I don't hold this issue against Chrysler. I just consider the hemi lifters and even the roller rockers on the Penstars a maintenance issue.
I have 07 durango 5.7L. Had back 2 exhaust manifold bolts broke on passenger side and then gasket leak, and i have 04 Ram 5.7L. Had back 2 bolts break on passenger side and gasket leak, the mds started in 06, i try not letting my 07 5.7L. Idle much do to thats when the wear happens most, otherwise i love both of my Hemi motors.
Both my 5.7 hemis are running perfectly, the '12 Challenger M6 engine has 127K on it and still runs like new, and the '14 300C engine has 72K on it and it hauls ass, and also shows no sign of letting up either. MDS has been shut off in the Chrysler, and I keep AmsOil synthetics in both vehicles, keeps them running happily.😎
in alabama we run shell rotella in most of them and have no problems. also i service a fleet of dodges with hemis. he just sold a 2006 with 620,000 still running strong, has several that went over 400,000 miles never a engine problem he runs amsoil none have ever had the Hemi tick some 5.7 some 6.4 has just got several new ones. but they are route trucks. never replaced a cam or lifter in any of his trucks
My 2019 Express developed a hemi tick at 25.000km with 5w20 shell rotella full synthetic oil,the only oil that kill the tick is 5w20 conventional pennzoil, nothing else was working for me.
I had a seized lifter in my 2011 Hemi at 108k miles. New factory engine installed . At 81k miles I just had a valve spring break on the #5 cylinder while on the hwy at 75mph. Lucky no damage was done. Trying to figure out if I should replace all the springs now.
you got a new sub... I have owned both pre 2009 and 2009+ Hemi 5.7 engines. My 2015 Jeep GC SUmmit 5.7 has 163k miles I am the 2nd owner and 1st owner kept up with the maintenance by the book. I continued that tradition changing oil every 2500-3250 miles. I recently did engine mounts and some suspension repairs. I recently grabbed a 2023 RT Charger Last Call so I am under warranty until 2028 for powertrain but I will most likely never see 100K or even 30k on that engine. That car is pretty much a lawn ornament. my 2014 Ram 1500 had 150k miles on it before I privately sold it in February of 2022, no tick no issues, but when I buy used vehicles I look for 2 things, number of owners and Maintenance history. If the vehicle shows a detailed carfax, and I pull the oil fill and see a nice light brown or light golden hue to the internals... I am good with it. Also anything i buy will get every single fluid replaced within 500 miles of purchase. my 2005 300C, aka my Pimp Mobile, I sold privately with 189k miles and being original owner I had the maintenance history down to the detailed carfax and every single receipt for every bit of work ever performed. Sold the vehicle for above market value in 2019 and also had it repainted in 2018, so it essentially looked new, interior was flawless, original radio, Nav etc. I actually wanna do some work to the jeep, I think it could use a bit more power and I am thinking of a cam upgrade and possibly intake, but what I am not sure of is how much of the charger/challenger parts will interchange with the jeep hemi. I have access to a practically new 6.4L Cam (less than 200 miles, and the intake, also less than 200 miles. I could save them for the charger but would love to put them in the jeep since it is so far out of warranty it will make no difference if I blow it up. If and when it goes kaboom I can part it out and make way more money as it is as immaculate as my 2005 300C. So can I use the charger 6.4L cam and intake in my 2015 Jeep GC SUmmit?
You can, the parts will bolt directly on to your engine, however you'd have to add the MSD box to control the variable intake runner, and if you do swap cams it would be best to get the engine tuned to maximize the combo 👍
"Star Case" In July 2020 I had three months left on a lease (2015 Outdoorsman) 60K miles. It was cheaper to wait and pay off the lease than pay it off early. I had it in at 60K for a bolt replacement for the hemi tick (second time). I asked about trade in and they offered 13K for my truck. I paid it off decided to keep it till 100K. Then towed a trailer on a 3500 mile trip June 2021 and the truck shut off at speed three times telling me to restart without throwing a code, on the highway, pulling a trailer in traffic. Got home, took it in and they couldn't figure it out made it a "star case" as I heard them say that to each other. A soon to be retired tech friend of mine from back home said it was likely in the ignition system and with the "tick" issues (twice including one manifold under the 100K warranty) I'd had he personally would get rid of it. They told me they had to wait for a tech from FCA...but, they offered me 27K trade in on the truck...with the problem... There were no incentives on new ones, but the trade in was so good, It easily offset any incentives. I took the deal...
I have a 08 Ram1500 with 5.7 hemi with MDS. I haven’t had the lifter/cam tick. I do have the broken exhaust manifold bolt tick that stops when the engine warms up. I have always run mid grade gasoline as specified in the manual (89 octane or higher) and I’ve changed oil and oil filter every 5k miles like clockwork. Just a data point to offer.
I have a 2014 and had a lifter go bad but just thought it was a manifold leak. That's exactly what it sounded like and now it got to the point where it really started ticking where I could tell it was a lifter but at that point it was way too late. Took out my crank bearings which led to no oil pressure. Still have the block. The block is still good but now I'm stuck trying to find everything else to rebuild it without spending $10,000
Bought my 2015 Ram 1500 2wd 5.7 Hemi brand new.....After all of the free bee oil changes at the dealer expired at 36k miles I then converted over to Amsoil 5w 20 Signature Series which is their best. Hemi tick all but disappeared soon after the first oil change switching to Amsoil with 12k oil change intervals going forward....Last week at 159, 359 miles, I heard loud chirping noises coming from the truck. Pulled into a gas station, left the engine running and popped the hood....Loud chirping noises coming directly from the left side engine bank. Noise disappeared the next day but the engine has a loss of power and misfire when accelerating. Engine still idles smoothly though....I know that I have a lifter issue. Truck going to an independent shop with certified Dodge mechanics tomorrow....This problem can occur regardless of what top quality of oil is used obviously....So if one or two lifters are the problem, I'll replace them all with the 2016 and newer so called lifter upgrades that Ram or Chrysler says are better. Hopefully the cam lobes are ok......Oh well. Part of the territory when owning a Hemi.
I have a 17 power wagon with a 6.4. My future plan is to replace with a hellcat oil pump, injectors and cam eventually before i put the procharger on...lol. already got the AHR headers ceramic coated and ready to install.
My neighbor just swapped his 2013 Hemi cam and lifters in a weekend at 153k miles after misfire codes. His cam had a trashed lobe. My 2012 Hemi still runs perfect at 148k miles but I have lifetime maxicare warranty so I will drive it until it fails. This is an easy repair on a RAM but probably harder in other vehicles.
I work at a dealer, and those lifetime Maxcare warranties are the bane of my existence 😂. However they are fantastic for the customers! A good choice by you 👍
My 2016 ram 1500 with the 5.7 hemi just failed this past weekend at only 85k miles. Simply cruising down the highway at 75 when the engine started misfiring. Couldn't restart the truck and needed to pay for an expensive tow. Bought this truck cpo with a perfect prior maintenance history and continued to change oil with full synthetic every 5k miles. No warning noises or sounds at all. My engine (right up to failure) was extremely quiet. Now trying to deal with cpo warranty repair or looking at 10k fix. I will never buy another FCA/Stellantis product after this experience. Extremely disappointed with this engine.
You should try to pour engine oil in a large bowl and dump the valve lifters in the bowl fill with engine oil. Let valve lifters soaked in engine oil and push rods until air bubbles stop before install in the engine.
Great info thank you. I been watching now for a while and find your videos very helpful. I own a 2018 RAM 1500 with almost 60,000 miles on 5.7 not getting the HEMI tick yet but, I did have something very unusual happen around 3,000 miles after oil change where I found my oil filter was loose. It had been dripping on the driveway. I got under the truck and sure enough it was a little loose; I hand tightened it up and it was fine for a week or so then I noticed it was dripping yet again. I called Firestone where I had the oil changed and made them replace the filter and tighten it with a filter wrench. No leaks after that. However the tech at Firestone told me this can happen and it had something to do with too much oil pressure and to add an oil cooler to drop the pressure. That didn’t sound right to me. He stated there was some kind of service bulletin about it yet he couldn’t find it and neither could I when I was checking the web. The next time I took the truck to Firestone I ran into this tech again, and I asked him if he ever found that article and he said no but he found something and it said to add a little bit of marvel mystery oil in with the engine oil and to help with the pressure. Again sounded a little weird, but he claims to have been a Chrysler technician in a previous life. I was wondering if you’ve ever heard anything about hemi oil filters, becoming loose and dripping, and if it had anything to do with all the pressure of the oil system
I never like to discount anything out of hand. But no, I've not seen any sort of bulletin regarding that issue. Usually it's just a flyer that wasn't fully tightened when it was originally installed. You'd have to be making an absolutely ridiculous amount of oil pressure to do anything to the oil filter. And if anything, adding marvel mystery oil would increase your oil pressure so not sure how that would help if its a pressure problem.
I feel like owners should band together and pile on to help this case. For instance help the attorneys reshape their argument so it’s not immediately shut down since fca only has to disprove what they’re saying specifically not that there isn’t a problem.
I think a lot of the issues are because to many buy the cheapest oil that is on sale this week, I have owned several Hemi Rams and never had an issue, but I have always ran the highest quality oil, in my case I run Redline Group 5 Ester synthetic oil. I think due to the tolerances in todays engines to enable them to meet EPA requirements you really need the highest quality oil to ensure you remain problem free.
While I agree and you’re running arguably the best oil for this engine, I don’t feel like owners should have to be chemical engineers to maintain a truck. It’s not a race car. I have a collapsed lifter now and I’ve followed the recommended specs the entire time I’ve had the truck. nothing but penzoil ultra platinum with fram xg10060 (part of the issue I’m finding out) changed religiously every 5k.
I’m a Chrysler tech for 38 years. 43 in the business. I agree with just about everything. What just made my head swell is not having a competent transmission tech on staff. I’ve been a Transmission for most of my time with Chrysler. 80’s 90’s and up to mid 2000’s we rebuilt transmission’s both warranty and for customer pay. Chrysler got smart and started offering 3 year 36k warranty on reman engines and transmissions. Now there 3 year 100k and reman engines,transmissions, transfer cases and other parts. It better for the customer to put a reman unit in it than doing an overhaul with a 2 years parts warranty. Also the modern transmission’s the 8 speeds, 9 speed , and other transmissions now used are replacement only. Under warranty we are only allowed to repair the 68 RFE, 62TE. If the customer who bought the vehicle and adds a Mopar MVP service contract that add power train warranty after the factory warranty expires again no transmission repair. Replacement only.
Thank you for the information. I am part of the lawsuit. My engine totally failed at 112000 miles about 200 miles previous we did all of the top and engine repairs costing me close to $8000. Please keep us updated on any further developments on this lawsuit.
Had my 2010 ram 1500 chk engine light come on a lil after 120K. Misfire code. Dealer charged me 5K for 1 cylinder head replacement. Feel like I still hear a tick at low speeds but that could be the Injectors like you stated.
Back in the summer of 2020, Feldman Automotive Group sold me a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT 66k mile. 19 miles it lasted before a repair they did 2 weeks earlier failed and I had to pay $2k for a new Mopar long block Hemi engine and a warranty. They repaired the cam and lifters 3 weeks before I picked it up. It failed on my way home the day I picked it up. The Jeep had no window sticker and I wasn't told about the engine or the costly repairs they did trying to prep it for sale. Major repairs and defects have to be disclosed and Prior Dealer repairs are warranted. Plus FCA told me my Jeep was imported from Canada and is not covered by any manufacturer's extended warranty coverage so I had to pay another $550 for a water pump that had an extended customer satisfaction warranty extension if it was a USA-made vehicle. I asked for history and records but was never told it was an imported Grey market car worth way less than a normal US-made vehicle. Feldman Chevrolet didn't have any state-regulated information papers on the window and wouldn't even tell me what they had fixed the 3-4 weeks before I picked it up. I Traded in a mint low-mile Hemi charger RT max AWD. I was OK paying the 2000 and getting a new engine with a warranty. Why would anyone sell or buy imported Canadian vehicles inside the US? Not worth as much and no repair services will be covered or reimbursed by FCA. I paid the asking price. Was patient with them only to be lied to and charged another $2k for something they didn't fix correctly before and then not warranty the bad repair. Today 37k miles later the new engine just started knocking so I towed it in and the dealership said the warranty paper they gave me when I paid the 2000 was never activated. On the bill for repair and service order it has the warranty company name. start date. End date. Start miles. End miles and deductible. I have to pay 700 for the tear down and now they want 1300 to put a bad engine back together or 15k to replace the engine. I talked to the manager and he said the sales guy was fired and the service lady doesn't work at Feldman anymore. He said since the new engine was never registered with the warranty company I have to pay for everything which will cost $14k. When the jeep died on the day I bought it I was going to get my money back but they said I would have a new engine and a warranty if I paid 2k. Dealer said bottom end and bearing look good. So I payed $700 for a oil Pan removal which I said was pointless. After pan was removed I got a call a was told 1300 more to replace a gasket and put oil pan back on. So 2000 ànd no diagnosis for the ticking. Mds 3401 code and a cylinder are 8 msis fire code. I think the sound is right side top near firewall. Pushed stop 1 sec after the knocking started. Heed help and some wisdom😢. New long block is at 38k miles and 12 dealership oil changes. Dealer said I need another long block. Should I try and do camshaft and lifters while my lawyer handles the fraudulent dealerships. Saving this engine if I have to replace it since it's the second one to fail for lifter and cam. I took great care of the engine only drove 40 miles a day. Paid 16000 in oil changes to still get funded again.
Oof, that's a tough situation 😕. My recommendation is to not do anything to the engine right now. I suspect you've got a pretty good case to force them to replace the engine again on their dime, not yours. I don't care if those employees are no longer working there, they were the company representatives at that time and you clearly have all the supporting documentation showing the work they did and the parts they installed. It's not your fault they did not register the engine properly. Don't let them slip out on something like this. Automotive places like this are what gives my industry a bad name. I hope you are able to get what you deserve in this situation. 👍
Hi! Just watched this video as I’m looking for information on this issue. My 2014 1500 5.7 Ram just started ticking at 85k miles. Very annoying to learn this can cost a couple of thousand dollars to repair. I’d like to know if the lawsuit is still ongoing. At the very least Chrysler should provide for free the new parts for the repairs, the owner has to cover labor.
Back in the 60s Chrysler had what was called a heat riser in their manifold and it would rattle and my 6.4 2016 dodge truck has that same noise sounding like it’s coming from under the truck in the exhaust system. Chrysler said it was the hemi tick and replaced the bank of lifters And it still makes the same noise. I don’t really know where to go from here but it sure is annoying. Really loud when you start it for about 30 seconds and then it goes away and it’s more of a rattle than a tick coming from the exhaust system. You can really hear it when it’s in the garage against the wall coming from the passenger side under the truck in the front.
I'm OK with, this year I bought a super clean nice 2014 Ram 1500 with a bad cam/lifters for a great price. I installed a new cam with the updated lifters and it runs great.
It may have been covered in an ordered recall. The V65 Honda motorcycle engines in the early 80's had a similar problem with the cams. The surfaced hardened material of the cam lobe would rapidly wear and then the softer inner material would destroy itself. Honda was ordered to replace all the cams in the effected bikes (several years worth)
Something to consider is as a consumer i would choose to spend my money on a GM ls or a ford coyote that doesn’t have that issue. I understand it’s not Chryslers problem at a certain point but I won’t buy one knowing it has this issue. On the LS side I would probably avoid displacement on demand. When you spend 10s of thousands of dollars on a vehicle you want it to last.
I think what's frustrating for me is that all engines have problems. All manufacturers have service departments don't they? It's just this issue gets a lot more publicity than others.
I have an 09 dodge challenger srt8 6.1L 6 speed manual and I actually had this issue. Lifter on cylinder 3 seized and degraded the cam lobe to the point of misfiring and it wasn't opening the valve properly and spun rod bearings on piston number 7 and 8. I ended up having to replace the cam, a set of lifters, Rod bearings, and all the timing components. My car only had 50k miles. Cost me about a grand out of pocket for everything.
My 6.4 charger has a slight tick, could be this issue I don’t know, the dealership told me it was “part of normal operation” so I guess I’ll find out if it fails
I'm on my 3rd hemi 5.7 I wish we in Idaho had a lemon law here the last engine broke a rod the cam is broken the first engine I lost the number one piston on the driver side and tore up a valve seed and the cam was broken that's why now I'm fixing to put a junkyard one in because I can't afford 7,000 plus labor from Dodge to put one in so if we have a lemon law that would be great
I have a 2011 ram 1500 with the 5.7 hemi the cam, and lifters failed 80,000 miles. While I was in the dealership, they had 7 other Rams with the same problem the mechanic told told me this is a very common problem for these motors .
My 2011 Challenger with the 5.7 Hemi has 126,000 miles and is quiet as new. Changed the oil and filter every 5,000 miles and did all the milage maintenance. I think it will make 200,00.
I think the Hemi tick issue is more of a reflection of a greater issue on how vehicles are maintained in general. The maintenance per mile measure is flawed. It should be and should have always been maintenance per hours of operation. That is how all other industries track it (aircraft, construction, manufacturing...). As you have pointed out repeatedly, the vehicles with the problems are mostly fleet types and have high idle time, where mileage based maintenance is not reflecting true maintenance required.
Very informative and also concerning to me as I own a 2015 Ram 1500 sport with 65 k miles now experiencing a rough idle as well as piston slap. The exhaust manifold bolts and gaskets have been replaced twice for the infamous "hemi tick" . I have expressed my concern with these noises to the dealership of purchase and the response I get is that it's normal... It has been maintained religiously .. Not sure what to do at this point.
One actual safety issue I have been wondering about is the u joint in the steering shaft. My 2018 has 77k miles and some serious binding started. I live on the east coast, salt air, salt water, road rock salt, road salt brine. There is nothing wrong with the power steering rack (electronic), heavy grease allows the steering wheel to center again with no binding. Anyways the price in Canadian dollars is 666.50 at my local dealer installed. I'll just keep greasing the thing. I change my oil every 5k miles, no issues this is a good engine. Another nothingburger they are going to get nowhere, failure rate is too low for the hemi, and a lot abuse related or too much idling. One last thing. Are you aware if that intermidiate shaft u joint has any plastic in it? I was thinking of trying to break up the corrosion with a torch. Maybe that would be a bit more permanent than this heavy grease routine.
I have this steering shaft u joint binding also, the part down here is about $150 US on my list of things to replace. For now I spray it liberally with white lithium grease and it helps.
@@Jpm928 I used heavy grease, synthetic the kind you apply out of a grease gun. Works well and seems to be staying. That's what they call the northern tax, the price for mopar parts in Canada not to mention labor.
They added power loss for safety recall, and not just making it TSB only. Toyota extended my 2az-fe an extra 5 years, and 150k mile warranty for oil consumption class action. Also my vehicle was straight piped, no cats, aftermarket ecu, c.a.i, header, etc..
Certainly clear early Gen3 Hemi suffered from weak lifter Roller bearings. Lifters been upgraded in later production. And it was known problem, and engines were and probably still being replaced out of warranty under good will.
just bought a 2013 SRT, and i believe i have a bad lifter. just gonna baby it till i have enough saved for a MDS delete kit and a high output oil pump.
This is exactly what happened to me,my 2019 Ram developed a tick at 25.000km,went to the dealer for testing and they say,nothing wrong, this tick is normal!!
@@microminiskirt all vehicles with the hemi engines, tracks, cars are affected, and this guy proofs that MDS system do not play a factor here,with MDS or without it ,hemis suffer.
@@mariuszmajecki2972 Perhaps I won't buy a Challenger R/T 392 WIDE BODY or even the Challenger SXT V6 HEMI?🤔 PENESTAR engine? Sounds like it is a high mantenance car and the problems that Dodge has failed to address these problems since 2009 to the Challenger to new 2022 Challengers. 🤑
@@microminiskirt well,I know one thing for sure,FCA dont give a rat ass about it,and now the hemi engine is on the death row since they announced the end of V8 Hemi,there wont be any upgrade,any recalls etc,they are done with it.
Wouldn’t be an emissions problem if it’s not running probably ? This goes back to 2003 hemi’s The ticking starts not to long after the new engine is installed so the devaluation happens at the start !
Thank you for this very informative video. My 3.6L engine in my Charger suffered from this, and I paid for the repair myself (using Melling rockers & lifters and OEM camshafts). I'm seeking reimbursement for at least half of the cost of the repair based on Warranty Bulletin D-14-12, but Dodge is saying that that warranty is expired for my car, which is not true (it's 9 years old, 106K miles). I've asked Dodge to show me where in the warranty bulletin that an expiration date exists. Awaiting their answer.
Get a tuner and set your idle to 800rpm. This will make sure the engine is getting adequate and even extra oiling to the top end while idling. Also, run RedLine engine oil. If your engines has MDS, run the factory recommended oil, as a heavier weight oil can cause this to malfunction. If it's non-MDS, run 10w-30.
@@Bondovw Luckily I began using it before I ever got the HEMI tick. However, it did massively quiet down the normal valvetrain noise that can be heard if you're under the hood, and it dropped my oil temp by about 10 degrees. Then I started using it in my Harley, same thing, engine makes a lot less normal noise and oil temp is cooler. I found RedLine by accident honestly, I was just reading up on the notorious HEMI tick and got paranoid so I started looking at how the hell I could prevent it, and stumbled across a shit ton of Forums where all these people say redline fixed their HEMI tick. That convinced me to buy it, and I ain't never looked back since!
@@bobbybeanz8990 It costs a little extra money but it's 100% worth it man. You can research it, there's a lot of forums of people who swear by RedLine oil and talk about how it completely got rid of their HEMI tick, made the engine run quieter and kept the oil temperatures down, and I am absolutely one of them. I swear by that oil, even run it in my Harley, and it did the same thing. Made normal engine noise way quieter and made the engine oil run cooler.
Out of curiosity I put 5W-30 in my 2016 MDS 5.7L at 50k miles. The hot and cold oil pressure remained the same as when it had 0W-20 (never gets below 35 psi, even idling at 200+ degrees F), and the transition between 8- and 4-cylinder mode is less noticeable. I'm 1500 miles into using the 5W-30 and have experienced no MDS problems. The 6.4L MDS SRT engine uses 0W-40 and uses the same lifters as the MDS 5.7L; 5038787AD for standard lifters and 5038788AD for deactivating. I agree with you that increasing idle speed will help, 750-800 should be good. I think sticking to an oil interval of 6 months or 5000 miles or less is also good, regardless of if the oil bottle, oil filter box, or your vehicle's Oil Life Monitor says you can go longer.
IMO any engine today should go 300K miles without an internal failure given the high quality synthetic oils available. Certainly you can't expect someone to have to replace lifters at 100K intervals...that's insane!!! That said I have 150K on my 2014 Hemi...no weird tick, so I wonder how widespread this is compared to total production numbers. Probably will come down to if legal determines its cheaper to settle than to fight the lawsuit.
And I keep up with my maintenance I’m going non mds everything. Sadly I won’t be buying another Chrysler/dodge I like the big fast cars and it’s unfortunate I was going to get a challenger but I’m opting to a Chevy Camaro. I own a 2014 300s 5.7 and will be getting the cam and lifters out on, I’m use to my cars running I can’t do this tho. My Chevy Malibu has 250.000 miles on it. No engine problems. I owned a 2004 Grand Prix gtp with 360.000 miles on it no major engine problems not even from the supercharger. So yeah dodge lost one
@@terrylee773 Well as a counter I own a '06 Hemi 300 with 275,000 and no issues and I run the piss out of it. So could be a lower quality vendor started suppling lifters. We will see, 162,000 on my 2014. Going to run her till it fails.
I'm finally 90% sure I am having lifter issues on my 2013 retired police pack Charger 5.7, when driving it sounds absolutely horribe when up to idle and increases with revs. I'm hoping its only cam and lifters, but I'm also hoping when the repairs are done the 6.2 hellcat oil pump will prevent this from happening. I fully intend to keep my MDS. Because it was designed that way and its pointless to remove it.
99% of the camshaft failures occur after the powertrain warranty expires. You're on your own. BTW, it's a camshaft surface hardness issue, not a lifter issue. I'm pretty sure you have noticed the dull, uneven wear pattern on the failed camshafts. The ramp becomes abrasive, which impedes the roller function, and the roller skids on the ramp. It is also a maintenance interval issue as well. Dirty oil compounds the breakdown of the surface hardness via the lobe/valve spring pressure.
I just finished fixing my 2011 Ram 1500 for the Hemi tick.....It ate the cam and had 2 bad lifters. This has been known issue since almost day one, it is disappointing that a company puts out a product that they know will fail on you.
@@TiffanyMontcrieff The cam and lifters. I also did an MDS delete, but since I was in there I replaced the oil pump (Lots of metal in the pan and pump) and timing set (193K miles). I also had some issues I hadn't delt with so I replaced the water pump, exhaust manifold bolts and manifolds and rebuilt the heads. The minimum would be the cam, lifters and depending on the cam you buy, an MDS delete kit (Which requires programing).
Just replaced my 5.7l hemi out of my 06 daytona for lifter failure that chewed into my camshaft and crankshaft and I pulled it off the road soon as I head the tick. Cost me just shy of $17,000 to swap it out with a 0km remanned 5.7l hemi. Shitty lifter setup from Chrysler something needs to be done. Ill comment again when these lifters fail see how many kms I get before it happens.
Because I don't have time to do it myself, so it was done at a dodge dealership. The funds are in CDN. They had to do a tear down for diagnostics before the found the issues ie lifters and camshaft. Decided it would be a better route to go new instead of doing a full rebuild machining the block and heads etc. Engine swap to new with 0km and 3yr warrenty was about 13k with labour. The rest of the cost 3+k was teardown and diagnostic and a windshield, new bolts all around 1 engine mount. So essentially cost was Dealership doing the work.
I already know what causes this issue On 6.4 It is very hard And expensive 2 Find 0W40 So people& shops just put the closest oil weight In I use Amsoil 0W40 And change at 3500 miles never had a issue yet These engines are extremely hard on oil Plus using the right Oil filter Is very important 2
It is the oil and it is the filter it's the oil not so much the filter but the oil is hard to find 0W40 Regular synthetic Plus nobody wants to use Mopar oil filters Which have the right specs
Yep. My 6.4L 2012 just started ticking bad and after al the research I've been doing the last week or so it looks like I'm in for a new cam and lifters. Ugh!
Chrysler is NOT the only manufacturer with the roller lifter failure issue. Something I think needed more attention on is oil changes and oil quality. I personally think 5w-20 oil is too thin. Also up to 10k oil change intervals is way too long. I feel the oil or the additives are broken down by then. I feel 5w-30 and every 5k. But I know it’s about environmental and emissions.
I have a 2019 Laramie longhorn with 89,000 mi on it! It just started the infamous hemi tick on startup for about 3 seconds. I know it's not the manifold gaskets and bolts because they've already been replaced. Thankfully when I bought the truck I bought a 4-year 48,000 mi bumper to bumper warranty with it. The dealer I bought it from who is also a personal friend of mine has been going to battle with the factory rep over my vehicle because I have a thousand mile all-inclusive warranty and I've had the truck for 2 months but I've only put 700 mi on it so Chrysler has to cover this all inclusive. He said it operates within the scope of what Dodge allows but I have raised so much hell about that tick that my truck is now at the dealership and the factory rep is coming to personally look at it today and my buddy assures me that my s*** is going to be replaced so we'll see! I will say this, a buddy of mine has a 2022 and within 3 days of him buying it brand new it started the tick on startup and he changed the oil to 5W-30 and he says his problem went away. I think if you catch it soon enough and do away with this thin oil that dodges using it helps a lot. I'll know today what they're going to do about fixing it and I Will try to slide back on here and give an update.
